Defender TD5 Rebuild

Started by grizzlychicken, April 18, 2020, 06:14 PM

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grizzlychicken

I needed to install the new bushings I had into all the suspension components. I looked around at different options and wanted something that wouldn't affect the road handling negatively/give a rougher ride. These bushings were well reviewed to actually improve road performance from the standard rubber bushings.


So went about getting them all pressed in. It turns out that the grease they include with my vice worked a treat for install.

https://youtu.be/ijwl9-ZN83c

I'm really happy with how the suspension component rebuilt went.


They are all new and shiny!


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grizzlychicken

Using copper anticorrosion compound on all the main structural components that don't ask for Loctite.



And here is it all installed on the front diff.




It sure is pretty ;)

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binch

Cheers, Bill

Red90

Just an FYI.  With the dual rate springs, it is better to put the close coils facing up.

grizzlychicken

Quote from: Red90 on May 25, 2020, 08:12 AM
Just an FYI.  With the dual rate springs, it is better to put the close coils facing up.
Good to know thanks John. They are just put there for the pic for now.


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grizzlychicken

Moving the chassis into my home made paint booth. Decided to clear coat it for extra shine and protection.


What could possibly go wrong.......



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Matt H

Can I ask that you let us know how you like those Superpro bushings when the Rover is released back into the wild please?
I ran the Polly bush brand in the past on our old LR3 and the Mighty Range Rover and been disappointed. Went back to rubber in the end on the RRC, sold the LR3.
No Road Except For Land-Rover.

grizzlychicken

Quote from: Matt H on May 26, 2020, 10:55 PM
Can I ask that you let us know how you like those Superpro bushings when the Rover is released back into the wild please?
I ran the Polly bush brand in the past on our old LR3 and the Mighty Range Rover and been disappointed. Went back to rubber in the end on the RRC, sold the LR3.
Sure thing Matt. Yes I was going to go with rubber but after trolling the forums these looked good so will keep you posted!


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grizzlychicken

Worked on setting up my paint booth in the garage. Happy with how it turned out. Have a furnace filter taped up high for intake and a strong extraction fan at the other end down low to have a bit of a down draft system

Washed then wet sanded the chassis with 600grit. Then washed it down again with a lint free cloth and used the compressor to air dry it a bit. Will leave it for a few days to dry out then will clear coat.
Wetting down the floor helps keep any dust down.


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Matt H

Wow, a 600 grit wet sanded chassis! Talk about the extra mile. You certainly are putting a lot of effort into this rebuild. Nice job.

Now I feel embarrassed to say I didn't even wash my chassis before I went ahead and welded up the rear cross member  :-[
No Road Except For Land-Rover.

binch

Yup, I'm enjoying this write up!!!   ;)
Cheers, Bill

grizzlychicken

Quote from: Matt H on May 28, 2020, 10:37 PM
Wow, a 600 grit wet sanded chassis! Talk about the extra mile. You certainly are putting a lot of effort into this rebuild. Nice job.

Now I feel embarrassed to say I didn't even wash my chassis before I went ahead and welded up the rear cross member  :-[
Ha! It's just to give the clear coat something to stick too. Not sure how it will turn out as it's my first attempt to clearcoat over powdercoat. No kudos until the clear coat's done!


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grizzlychicken

Ok so got the clear coat done today yay!
With my limited painting experience it was kind of tricky to spray due to all the brackets, corners and edges and to be honest I wasn't sure how it would turn out during clear coating as it was drying at different rates. I must say the paint booth worked a great and I didn't see any dust specs on the paint which is good news moving forward. Because I didn't file down all the galv imperfections there are spikes here and there and some uneven surfaces from the galv process but all that is going to be covered by the body anyway.

So here is the finish under lights:



Again super happy with it. I know chassis paint/finish combos are endless but in the end I wanted the shine more than the Matt finish as it matches all the powder-coated parts way better. Here is a pic of the new chassis clear, the powdercoated gloss and the powder coated Matt finishes:



Next it's on to putting a rolling chassis together! I am pumped that the chassis prep is now done! Oh except for the chassis wax.........should I thread the wiring loom first then wax or wax first then thread......

Onto the axels!


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binch

You shouldn't need to wax a galvanized chassis I wouldn't think.  ???
Cheers, Bill

Matt H

Nice thing about a gloss finish is it's easier to wash clean than a matt finish. Muck doesn't stick to it quite as much.

I agree with Bill, once galvanized you shouldn't really need any other treatments like waxoil etc. They make a horrid mess and tend to attract dirt anyway. It's impossible to effectively clean inside a chassis once in the field anyway and most rust from the inside out. I think you have already done what you can to future proof the chassis.

Turned out nice
No Road Except For Land-Rover.