Alberta Land Rover Enthusiasts Club Forum

General => Technical Discussions => Topic started by: grizzlychicken on April 18, 2020, 06:14 PM

Title: Defender TD5 Rebuild
Post by: grizzlychicken on April 18, 2020, 06:14 PM
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200419/7eef15115c622deeb64b4d8365d9ea48.jpg)

So I didn’t plan to buy a defender to rebuild but here I am. I live in Canmore,Alberta and was interested in defenders for a long time. I have a young family and was justifying to my wife that a defender would be great! It can seat 9 people so what a great family car :)

I go to Europe once a year on business so was determined to source my own defender as they seemed pricy here in Canada. I found a candidate in Italy and went over to check it out, bought it and shipped it back. She doesn’t have a name, my kids just call her rover.


(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200419/0dd1bcfdead8c9ed3336b307471a7c26.jpg)

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Title: Re: Defender TD5 Rebuild
Post by: grizzlychicken on April 18, 2020, 06:34 PM
So rover runs great and I put quite a few miles on her over the next year. As the miles accumulated I started to notice a few things that went quite right. The back right corner had been repaired at some time in her past and the repair Kobe wasn’t that great. I also notice the doors not lining up and not in the usual” all rovers doors don’t line up” way.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200419/7f70ff0739c8dbd9b14d1713bc72bdf8.jpg)

(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200419/57f58805f307f0f0823a789ca66e545a.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200419/111bcd152be8126f7623a8cc7dfc9277.jpg)

I also realized that there was they typical rust in the door frames and particularly bad in one door.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200419/432cd5c4e514b569fdb61f252a039715.jpg)
Hidden by foam.

So I thought to myself that someday I want to fix all these issues. I know defenders are supposed to be rough and utilitarian but my dream was to make her a comfortable daily driver  that would still be formidable off road and ok to drive in our Canadian Winters.

But not right away........


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Title: Defender TD5 Rebuild
Post by: grizzlychicken on April 18, 2020, 07:11 PM
I purchased her in 2016 and being a 2001 that made her exactly old enough to import under Canada’s 15 years old or older clause. She arrived in August and over the next little while I started to get to know her and how she ran. I was impressed that she could start at -30 over the winter, although she blew a lot of smoke (her ERG has been blanked before I got her).
I was exited too that she had a Webasto coolant heater! There was no remote or way to start it up so researched and sourced one on eBay. Unfortunately even with the remote the webasto has issues. It would start up then shut itself down. I found a way to talk to it and it told me that It wasn’t getting enough voltage. (9v) So would auto shut down after a short cycle......bummer. The webasto technician in Calgary advised either a new brain or a new heater. I decided on brain surgery and ordered one from Europe. Same issue so I put that on hold as spring had sprung and I didn’t need I at that moment

(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200419/8f93bdd1788afcb1d60e750e51896d0e.jpg)



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Title: Re: Defender TD5 Rebuild
Post by: binch on April 18, 2020, 07:34 PM
Is your power for the webasto coming directly from the battery?

I have one in my 110 and love the thing!!!!   I have a toggle on/off switch so it a simple manual set up and only installed to make it easier to start in the winter.    I bought a remote control (Red90's suggestion) some 10 years ago but have yet to install it LOL.    I liked them so much I bought a second one for my 200tdi RRC.....I still have the webasto but not that RRC.  I've going to put it into the 91 RRC I'm rebuilding now.     

"hi, my name's Bill....and I'm an addict" :-\

Gotta love 'em
Title: Re: Defender TD5 Rebuild
Post by: grizzlychicken on April 18, 2020, 08:26 PM
Is your power for the webasto coming directly from the battery?

I have one in my 110 and love the thing!!!!   I have a toggle on/off switch so it a simple manual set up and only installed to make it easier to start in the winter.    I bought a remote control (Red90's suggestion) some 10 years ago but have yet to install it LOL.    I liked them so much I bought a second one for my 200tdi RRC.....I still have the webasto but not that RRC.  I've going to put it into the 91 RRC I'm rebuilding now.     

"hi, my name's Bill....and I'm an addict" :-\

Gotta love 'em
Hey Bill,
Power was routed through the remote. I’m pretty sure it was a poor earthing issue. Good idea to wire it direct from the battery. I do lie the idea of starting the coolant heater from the house though via the remote . I have it out now so will bench test it and work backwards that way


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Title: Defender TD5 Rebuild
Post by: grizzlychicken on April 18, 2020, 08:43 PM
So I quickly realized that there is not much local support in my area for rover so decided I’d better get upto speed on maintenance.
I decided to get a nanocom so I could read and clear codes along with tuning my td5 and adding cruise control etc at a later date. I know most don’t want these features but it is nice as a daily driver.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200419/64bc553685e50a6f6689517fcbd4fe84.jpg)

I am sure most of you are way more advanced on looking at the ecu but I found out that the the ECU on models upto 2001 is analogue. They begin with MSB xxxxxxx. That means that you can’t remap it via the nanocom. So time fo an ECU upgrade. The ecu with the start code of NNN xxxxx etc is digital and you can flash it to accept custom maps. I found a used nnn ecu and installed it. I then flashed the ecu with the factory map to start and it worked like a charm.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200419/6f941bb94e40adc5bc0334f7b3f44497.jpg)

 I researched some more and found this website:
https://www.discotd5.com
He does an awesome job of breaking down the ecu function and shared a general tune file for the td5 ecu which runs way better than the stock rover ecu tune. So I flashed the new ecu map and that helped with power quite a bit.


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Title: Re: Defender TD5 Rebuild
Post by: binch on April 19, 2020, 08:05 AM
okay now.... open your mouth slightly, push out your lower jaw and lower your eyebrows and say in a low slow voice say:

"What is dis ting yu call....   T   d   5 ?"


LOL ;D
Title: Re: Defender TD5 Rebuild
Post by: grizzlychicken on April 19, 2020, 09:41 AM
Ha!
So over the next summer I decided I needed to upgrade the 2nd row passenger seats. I felt that I didn’t feel the original seats were safe enough for the kids on the 4000km trip that summer. I looked into factory or aftermarket options but they were a few $$ so I found some seats from an auto wrecker from a Nissan Pathfinder and went about adapting them to fit her.
First thing I had a plate made up that I bolted to the main reinforcement points in the floor and to the attachment points in the chassis.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200419/9b5917cdcfb04f6c9a0e2a0f4005c9f9.jpg)

The recess I cut out of the wheel wells to accommodate the clip in mechanism of the seats I got. The seats still folded fully forward. It was a bi fiddly to get them to work and the seats ended up pretty verticals as the floor in the defender is pretty level compared to a pathfinder that has a recessed floor for the seats but they fit pretty well.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200419/ceb65b807a83b745e096ee3b8eb341dc.jpg)
Unfortunately I don’t have a good pic of the seats installed but they were a big improvement on the old seats!
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200419/1e80ea191c99c3f8ebc61bd7918a1e7e.jpg)
Playing with the seats made me realize however that things weren’t lining up quite right......

This was reinforced when I decided to get a rear antiroll bar. Yes I know most hard core off-roaders will remove these but I was after better road handling as a priority and found a set of rear antiroll bars that you could disconnect when needed. So I got this system:

https://foundry4x4.co.uk/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=76

Now these were supposed to be plug and play but they didn’t line up and would take serious modification to fit them. So I then went about checking my chassis alignment and realized that there was a serious twist and lateral shear.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200419/bd330f988c8d00fbfe3ff26b54b0f059.jpg)

Hmm so I decided to just keep driving her for now as she drove great but her alignment wasn’t good.


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Title: Re: Defender TD5 Rebuild
Post by: grizzlychicken on April 19, 2020, 11:48 AM
The winter of 2017 was pretty cold in sections. Unfortunately over the winter rover developed intermittent heater fan issues where it would just stop completely. On a 1 hour drive I remember being in full down with all the windows icing up as the heater wasn’t working. Stopping every 10-15 min or so to scrape the windshield in a snowstorm. I fitted an auxiliary electric heater which helped but I really needed to get her fan fixed. Took it to a shop in Calgary but it was working fine when I took it in and cramped out again on the way home. The list of things to fix was steadily growing.
I know heat is always an issue with cold weather for defenders but with no fan it became a bit ridiculous.


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Title: Defender TD5 Rebuild
Post by: grizzlychicken on April 19, 2020, 12:10 PM
Everything came to a head in the fall of 2018 where I was committing to work in lake louse, about a 50 min drive from Canmore and I heard some clunking in the drivetrain and then lost all drive power and smelled a burning smell. I thought to myself “that’s not good...”
Towed rover back to canmore where she was parked in my driveway. Time for some open heart surgery!
It would go into gear but lacked any drive.

So I decided to pull the transmission and transfer case.
I pulled Both and then determined that the lack of drive was coming from the transfer case. The transmission seemed to be functioning normally.

I pulled the transfer case apart and the first thing I found was shrapnel in the base of the case. Something had been shredded:
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200419/97122ffbf1518e028fda3c14e620a780.jpg)
These pieces are gear shaped pieces of metal.
On further inspection I found that the input gear to the transfer case had been totally stripped and where there was supposed to be gear there was a smooth cylinder surface:
 (https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200419/bb1087f000b75ed74a7bf8957da2af89.jpg)

It should have looked like this:
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200419/728d4a6197d12e70cb9dac3903f08ff2.jpg)

On further inspection I found that the support bearing for the gear was totally collapsed:
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200419/ed15959c05aa078ab10e910653a7a78e.jpg)

So there had been some oil leaking from the intermediate shaft common with the lt77 where the case gets ovalised from the steel shaft and no longer seals. Very common source of transfer case oil leaks.  I had checked the oil recently but must have had a catastrophic oil loss and lubrications failure of the bearing which in turn caused the gear to be mobile and when the gears lost mesh the teeth must have been torn off the gear.

So time to rebuild the transfer case!


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Title: Re: Defender TD5 Rebuild
Post by: binch on April 19, 2020, 10:30 PM
This is a great write up Shane!   Very informative.

If you are looking for a  good heater upgrade that will take any cold weather we can get...go have a look at what John Barge did in his 90!!!    When your kids asks you "Can you turn the heat down???" in a defender you know you're on the right track  ;)
Title: Re: Defender TD5 Rebuild
Post by: grizzlychicken on April 19, 2020, 11:44 PM
This is a great write up Shane!   Very informative.

If you are looking for a  good heater upgrade that will take any cold weather we can get...go have a look at what John Barge did in his 90!!!    When your kids asks you "Can you turn the heat down???" in a defender you know you're on the right track  ;)
Thanks bill,
I’m surprised someone is listening to my ramblings!
The write up is as much for me to remember and keep track as it is for others too although I hope it is useful to someone


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Title: Defender TD5 Rebuild
Post by: grizzlychicken on April 20, 2020, 09:40 AM
Just for everyone’s reference I am not a mechanic. I work as a Physio. I suppose that is a mechanic of sorts but for your body rather than for machinery.
I am however a tinkerer. My mechanical tinkering started 25 years ago when a dirt bike I had needed its crankshaft replace. So I pulled it appart and figured out how I all went back together. Those were the days of no internet ant just intuition!  A few years before that in about grade 9 I pulled appart a lawnmower engine for a science project and explained how it worked on vhs video for the classes viewing pleasure. Fun projects at the time!
In my early 20’s I was cheap (or broke!) but wanted a Toyota hilux truck. I found a nice cheap one. I learnt the important lesson of never buy a truck in the rain at night! Subsequently I found the chassis of that hilux had rotted through and was being held together by 2 pieces of angle welded to the chassis. I have a friend a ride in my “new truck” and as he was getting into it he place his hand in the window pillar and fouls it to be crunching under his fingers. That too was rotted out.

So I had a bit of a Delma. I couldn’t in good conscience sell it to another person knowing the structural issues with it so decided to try my hand at fixing it.

I sourced a use chassis from a wrecker and they cut out a hinge pillar for me too. So I spent about the next year and a half doing a cab off chassis change and cut the hinge Pilar out. I did get someone else to weld It in as my welding skills are beginner at best! I was very happy with how it turned out but it was a bit rough with the finishing but structurally sound!

My passion since then has been motorbikes and I have a number of projects on the go from a 1929 triumph WS:
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200420/1d1345a9b773314e26d469246e5eba4e.jpg)
To an ex German ww2 1944 BMW R75 with sidecar:
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200420/0e3517557c9ece08306bb06786c480c5.jpg)

These will be both mechanical and paint restorations.

I also tinker with robotics and have mostly built a full size r2d2 replica:
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200420/2c8e81a01c9ee502cd654d44255eb899.jpg)

I am a bit of a Star Wars fan. I built a full scale accurate Chewbacca costume and I volunteer with it to raise money for make a wish, which helps sick kids get their wishes granted. It is a geeky but fun and rewarding pastime. After building the Chewbacca costume I had to build a C3po backpack or him a la empire strikes back to make him feel complete:
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200420/ef4eb1102f7c39fcdf2628c068b32433.jpg)

Yes that is me!

Anyway so I’m a tinkerer. I like to figure out how things work and put them back together or build them from scratch. My biggest issue is having too many projects and following them through to completion! That will be the challenge with the defender rebuild!

Ramble over............


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Title: Re: Defender TD5 Rebuild
Post by: Red90 on April 20, 2020, 10:07 AM
Just for everyone’s reference I am not a mechanic.

Land Rover has been turning owners into mechanics since 1948.
Title: Re: Defender TD5 Rebuild
Post by: binch on April 20, 2020, 06:03 PM
Just for everyone’s reference I am not a mechanic.

Land Rover has been turning owners into mechanics since 1948.

Or at least trying   ROFL (thinking of some of my own efforts)
Title: Re: Defender TD5 Rebuild
Post by: JamesS on April 20, 2020, 10:20 PM
Enjoying your write-up! Any pictures of the chassis swap?
Title: Defender TD5 Rebuild
Post by: grizzlychicken on April 21, 2020, 12:05 AM
Yes John I’m in that category too!

James if you mean the hilux change I did take photos way back then and I think I still have them but it was pre digital back in 94 I think so will take a look. For rover pics are coming of the chassis after some more rambling!

I think I had already showed pics of the transmission gear that was stripped to the bone. To get there I first removed the transmission and transfer case. It was November in Canmore and there was no room in the garage (dam kids sports stuff!) so surgery happened in the driveway. After a few cold days of wrenching the transmission/transfer case combo ended up on my work bench in the warmth of my garage!
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200421/aaf87270ba882f7653ece5fbae50dec2.jpg)
Both the transfer case and gearbox were covered with the regular oily muck that comes with a defender drivetrain although there seemed to be an abundance of oily crap accumulated on the transfer case in particular. I couldn’t see a clear leak from the transmission antoigh the bell housing was coated in oil that I think had come from a rear engine oil seal.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200421/838b9c18d57f7c8216de4c8c11a042b5.jpg)

(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200421/62d683c344ebe8f0d75433411af56980.jpg)

So from there I ordered a transfer case rebuild kit from Ashcroft transmissions, a new input gear and since my plan was to upgrade the engine power some more I decided to up the high range gear ratio as I had to order the intermediate gear anyway. I also wanted to improve the on road traction control so also ordered an ATB limited slip diff for the transfer case.
All the parts arrived and I was pretty exited to put it all together. However when preping the transfer case for the bearings I realized that the bearing seats had been damaged by the collapse bearing...........shit.......I should have just ordered a rebuilt transfer case directly from Ashcroft! But I was committed as shipping was a killer for all these heavy things!
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200421/e7528e7fab23e9b2914948a0cb90f63c.jpg)

And Santa sent me a new transfer case shell.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200421/5963729675334bef2a6c36267d87ca6d.jpg)

I decided to call aschcroft just before this order as  I wanted to have everything I needed in one shipping cost.  After chatting with the owner, who is a helpful guy of few words, he recommended to change out the main shaft in the transmission as the splines often get worn on the output shaft which is another reason for possible backlash and loss of drive. I was also suspiciously the input shaft as it seemed to have excessive play and also the crankshaft bushing which, the shaft sits in, had significant wear.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200421/0c8bddba48c79df414f0cbcb6839948f.jpg)

 https://youtu.be/AC0dACSh1rE (https://youtu.be/AC0dACSh1rE)

So I ordered a rebuild kit for the transmission and a new shaft. Here we go!


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Title: Defender TD5 Rebuild
Post by: grizzlychicken on April 21, 2020, 12:56 AM
From there the transfer case rebuild went fairly smoothly. All new bearings, seals, the transfer case had the reinforced intermediate shaft seat that was an issue in my old case, an upgraded ATB limited slip diff, a higher ratio 1.22 gearset and a shiny clean exterior! And I ended up with what I think is better than I could buy from Ashcroft!
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200421/02cf42976fbd166018440466d3d81f4c.jpg)



While I was waiting for all these bits to get here, since I had pulled the seats, carpet, floor panels etc from the car I kept just pulling things apart.....
It was then I decided to order a new chassis through the club along with a bunch of other bits. I had already sourced new doors, hood, and other bits I’ll show as I put her back together but the chassis I feel is the core of the car and has to be right. So a galvanized heavy duty chassis was on its way. Why do I need a new chassis? Well usually most defender owners replace their chassis due to rust but once I stripped mine down I found a significant twist and sideways shunt. It must have been hit in the back corner very had at one point.
Fortunately we have a rental property in Canmore and the renters were moving out. So I managed to renovate the house to allow me to keep the heated garage! So the stripping process was on! Down to bare bones!
First though I picked up the new chassis. Unfortunately some of the brackets had been bent in shipping but nothing that a hammer couldn’t fix!
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200421/cba25fba686232b34d43e3fd6331dd6a.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200421/268877c7bcb14083629fbb8b388d3d56.jpg)


The I took the new chassis to the powdercoater.
Before:
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200421/dcee11af112fe092bbcfa53c7d71e5f0.jpg)

After:
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200421/02a7cf2cc928ca3869dc19943797a7b0.jpg)

Oh it was a thing of beauty! Unfortunately it had rained while sitting in the yard which covered it with a thin film of dust. Just needed a bit of cleaning.
I decided that the color should be Matt black as I read somewhere that that was more of an OEM finish for a defender. In hindsight now though I think it would have been a little better in their standard more gloss black. That’s just me being picky and I may still clear coat the chassis to gloss it up slightly and add another layer of protection to the metal.
Calgary powdercoating did an awesome job!

It was then time to take it home and set it up and start to completely strip down rover.

(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200421/03ba94d33ebfef023c143e00d8f5b444.jpg)
How to solo unload a chassis :)

And here comes the stripper....um stripping.... um you know what I mean!
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200421/8bd10caa38de2f48993c78d5ae41fc98.jpg)

(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200421/4fccae4ac38bf4a7edba46bc525be073.jpg)

(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200421/e8c85951d779ca64f10c90c846c7110b.jpg)

(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200421/6155e8062664671cdc14b059dfe4e1e7.jpg)

(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200421/93e73c63d2a9bab17eddab81fc500053.jpg)
Bulkhead bolts were a bugger
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200421/bac67fbbcd38625f8bd3ba1f92265bbb.jpg)

(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200421/3261f87b65ea27d33baef2243b562bcf.jpg)

And here is why I did the chassis change:
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200421/194762a41ee88212c22a69979e0b834f.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200421/13648e230de30db8f83f16bf42a36e20.jpg)


Stay tuned! More to come!


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Title: Re: Defender TD5 Rebuild
Post by: Red90 on April 21, 2020, 11:02 AM
You and Adam should have had a chassis swap party.  Although the rust on his made things a real pain. On the positive side, both of you now know every inch of the trucks inside and out.
Title: Re: Defender TD5 Rebuild
Post by: Matt H on April 21, 2020, 03:18 PM
Nice project.
Title: Re: Defender TD5 Rebuild
Post by: ugly_90 on April 21, 2020, 07:29 PM
I don't think there's anything too special on a defender to make a chassis swap that difficult. From what I recall, all the bolts are relatively small and easy to access, they'll either unthread or break off. On a mining Landcruiser however, there are some massive siezed 1" bolts in 1/2" steel plate for the rollcage that I'm still fighting with.

I wouldn't have top coated the galvanized frame black though, I would have finished there. Heresy!
Title: Defender TD5 Rebuild
Post by: grizzlychicken on April 22, 2020, 12:07 AM
Thanks again guys. Yes I did chat to Adam on a few occasions about the chassis swap and was very jealous when he dropped by the garage to check on rover in his fully running defender with his new chassis!
So yes you can certainly do a chassis swap if you plan on not changing much else with your vehicle and can end up with a great running truck if it has good bones. As I was pulling things appart on rover I realized that there would be some deeper rehab needed including paint and body work. Rovers bones were a little brittle!

For example let’s start with the bulk head. Removing this beast was a chore. The bolts attaching the bulkhead to the chassis were well rusted in placed and sheared off pretty quickly and needed heat and persuasion to get removed!

On assessing the bulkhead I knew it was commonly corroded as it was steel.  Looking at my bulkhead I didn’t think it was too bad and certainly salvageable.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200422/df6e45719009a2f3e368c16b92897eba.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200422/b7c94603d62042fe42144c427a9ee962.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200422/f80a26b62173fd0ad20d88a801c654b8.jpg)

(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200422/e71cdd6bf06b98757fda9d8292126aa0.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200422/77e0cac1aaa84a64186dcd04cf5dc394.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200422/d64965f4b44431b87ec5a8492ecb37fa.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200422/fc9d0e05b8b9784bf557269468504f66.jpg)

I sandblasted it at consolidated compressor to see how deep the rabbit hole goes.....

Then I asked the guys at high wood rod and custom to help out with some repairs. They did an awesome job!
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200422/da6d63443a6e8802db36d5762877ed33.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200422/4d818973587722c60a46e924739b7a64.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200422/6ffe75bd5d26f7ef8af73fce56f433f6.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200422/6051c833ed3ffa9a4b8593e8750a6566.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200422/2d0ffd480e974c9e4c22279ae06c736c.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200422/27b8126ae5831b2cf4eee572b5a3e60d.jpg)

And then prep to get it galvanized:
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200422/b7482b26880bdd94dd30abcc165a2e6f.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200422/41d45749e448fd09a55957d54304c8e6.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200422/e6e490addd4f1b8ea6e73f2bbcbae06f.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200422/942d9435504583db99b733dbcdd41201.jpg)

Covering the bolts with high temperature sealant helps with removing the galvanization after.

Then a few weeks later another thing of beauty! And only 100 bucks!
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200422/1f44ea4f58df0f6f51fdf0c5adf6f214.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200422/a9ecb94cfa599e912bcad52493cd8040.jpg)


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Title: Re: Defender bulkhead
Post by: ugly_90 on April 22, 2020, 09:00 AM
Your bulkhead corrosion there looks pretty standard. Lots of rot is hidden by bolted dash and footwells, and needs to be addressed. Lots out there are in an unknown state, and haven't had the steel refinished.

You're lucky you didn't get a warp in the flat areas of that bulkhead during the heat of dip galvanizing. On an older bulkhead than yours, particularly with any welding patches, it would be worth the risk of galvanizing. I would top coat and paint that bulkhead though, unlike the frame.

I ended up spraying line-x bedliner on the inside engine-side of the refinished bulkhead on order to stop future abrasion/corrosion, it went together ok.
Title: Re: Defender TD5 Rebuild
Post by: binch on April 22, 2020, 06:16 PM
Galvanized bulk head and chassis....SWEEEEEEET!!!!!!

You can't go wrong with it....once you put it back together again it will just last and last.   Also makes a big difference in resale....if it ever comes to that.

GREAT JOB!!!!!     And the write up is very motivating too ;)
Title: Defender TD5 Rebuild
Post by: grizzlychicken on April 23, 2020, 10:02 AM
Yes pretty happy I went the galvanized route with the bulkhead. When I was tearing it down I knew it had to be addressed.

So I think Bill mentioned Johns excellent post on his heater upgrades which was an excellent read and a great job. I have a plan for improving heating on rover too. When I pulled the bulkhead appart I was quite surprised about the small heating aperture that was transferring all the heat from the heating box to the foot wells and windshield. I also realized that the heater core was on the smaller side for
That vehicle and that my heater blower fan was not functioning and when I did the fan control had 2 speeds- slower and faster.

So aperture size:
To start with the heater box has a pretty big output:
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200423/1f68c7a1bb128e922c764a5b8445e462.jpg)

It is an Interesting design feature that they have a good chunk of that output restricted by a smaller
hole in the firewall:
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200423/0335600d70dea573f6eaac0688525511.jpg)

So before I had the bulkhead galvanized I measured the size hole appropriate for the heater box outflow (see marked above) and cut it out. This should be a significant in helping air flow.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200423/c70f7112bd2f1448e936cb0b9bb18dcd.jpg)

It doesn’t look much but it was quite the chunk removed. At least an inch by 3 inches. So probably around a 20% aperture size increase.

Next in the plan was to upgrade the heate core. I had done quite a bit of lookin around and found what I think would be the best stock upgrade for my setup which is a new alisport upgrades heate core. Oh it’s so pretty :)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200423/5f260dfb0bf6a00d05d68f46c207868e.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200423/509c60bf2d44291be10c5906c9aad814.jpg)

The last part was replacing the blower motor. I was trying to find an option that would spin a a higher RPM that would fit into the stock housing but was not successful. I think I will add a step up transformer from 12v to15v which should be within the tolerance of the motor but should be a more reliable spin since the alternator should be between 13-14v it should increase the motor rpm slightly
https://www.amazon.com/DC-DC-module-120Wmax-supply-converter/dp/B00M3ZQF7W

(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200423/7f02bcd848e0f57650c811bd87120aee.jpg)
Old heater fan rust. I think if I pulled I appart The bushings would be worn out.

So for better fan control I found a dutch digital controller that i think will allow way more placement(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200423/5f260dfb0bf6a00d05d68f46c207868e.jpg)
adjustability.
https://shop.landreiziger.nl/elektronische-ventilator-aansturing.html n

Also keeps with the stock look.

I have the webasto took but this system doesn’t really help move more air in the Vehicle as it just used the current ducting and us fan setup. It’s great as a coolant heater and blockheater substitute.

So for extra heating I’m probably  going to add an airtronic d2 ( I know it’s essentially 2 auxiliary heaters!) and likely mount it in the battery compartment.
Title: Re: Defender TD5 Rebuild
Post by: Matt H on April 23, 2020, 06:35 PM
There are GM type HVAC blower motors that lots of folks use as an upgrade to the stock unit. I forget the exact part number but you are looking for a two wire unit, not a internally grounded unit.

The Defender source forum has lots of threads on this.
Title: Re: Defender TD5 Rebuild
Post by: binch on April 23, 2020, 10:27 PM
Lovejugs had a great idea....we took a blower motor and fan out of an early model GMC van and installed it into the existing fan housing, with only a small amount of futzing to make it fit.    I haven't enlarged the bulkhead hole yet but it's been on my mind for sometime now.    With just fan I've gained quite a bit more air flow into the cab and it's helped quite a bit.  I only need one coat in the winter now  ahhahahhahhah

Great right up here shane!!!!
Title: Defender TD5 Rebuild
Post by: grizzlychicken on April 24, 2020, 06:26 PM
Thanks Matt. I did a bit of a search and interesting to see what everyone is doing.
Hey Bill I totally agree that you have to improve the air flow. There are no real specs on the blower motors for the defender as far as motor RPM or CFM.

My thought for excellent heat flow would be:
-improve the motor power
-improve the actual fan and how much air
The fan can display at a given RPM
-minimize the resistance to air flow from the heater box.

I do a bench test of my old blower motor by hooking it up to a battery(which I found out after had only 6v so need to repeat the test!) and marked a white spot on the fan. I then used the fancy iPhone slow mo feature to count the actual revolutions the fan made in 10 seconds by having a stopwatch in the background.
My data:
At 6.4v
Total revolutions 111
Total time 5 sec
Total RPM 1332.
So I will retest my old blower and compare it to my new blower for RPm at the same voltage.....when my battery charges up!
[ Invalid YouTube link ]

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Title: Re: Defender TD5 Rebuild
Post by: grizzlychicken on April 25, 2020, 01:54 PM
Ok so my battery charged up and here are my numbers for 12v. The old fan motor and the new fan motor were pretty close at 46 revs in a second for the old motor and 48 revs in a second for the new motor so
Old: 2760rpm
New: 2880 RPM
This would be at aroun 12v or maximal voltage. With the alternator putting out 13.8v I would imagine that I would boost the rpm to around 3000
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200425/9463b46743a9468043c1fd425a3c07bc.jpg)
Old motor test:


New blower motor rpm test:


Now just have to figure out alternate motors RPM :)


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Title: Defender TD5 Rebuild
Post by: grizzlychicken on April 26, 2020, 01:13 AM
Ok so that’s as far as the heater has got for now.

With stripping the chassis down, of course both axels, steering, suspension have to all come off and all the brackets from the chassis along with gas tank mounts and protective plates.  I also pulled off the bull bar and the running board steps.

The garage looked like a bit of a defender slaughter house when I was done with parts everywhere. It is going to be a jigsaw puzzle putting this thing back together!

(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200426/80c30a87d6f698da3d3f2bf8e8818174.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200426/a3eb7c293a8e1327a12a1be677136c32.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200426/51b44dd64803b1064387d4992ca697d7.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200426/c7477a51503cb537f3b12a9c68b0ea25.jpg)

So from here I started with the suspension components. After looking at the bushings I decided I needed to change these up which should also help with the on road ride comfort. So to the press!
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200426/28f8b987c094bec137261c6f11a605d7.jpg)

(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200426/8ec622f437f13ab7a223346c9f3ff2c5.jpg)

Pressed most of the bushings out. I did read about burning them out but that was taking way too long! These will be replaced with poly bushings.

So now I had a pile of suspension components and steering components and they were in good straight condition but the paint was flaky and they had surface rust. So decided to do a powder coating run.

In the run I decided to tear down both axels too as they were straight but not pretty. While at it the brakes and brake disc guards needed to be done too.

And while I’m at it I may as well do the wheel wells!

It took about a week but when I got all the bits back I was super happy with how they turned out!

(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200426/417e863114e1a75dbc00c59ee00b435a.jpg)

(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200426/050a7e37df65bfe615ae279849c7d77b.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200426/653fca6bd7ca00dc81d834ab5d28d11d.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200426/d2c67255df044b004e84e41d25a2a378.jpg)


Now to get working on a rolling chassis!


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Title: Re: Defender TD5 Rebuild
Post by: binch on April 26, 2020, 04:01 PM
WOW!!!!!   Is that ever shiney!   Looks very nice indeed.   

I would have suggested Endura epoxy coating rather the power coat though as it would have been more durable, especially under the vehicle.

BUT.....it looks VERY nice right now ;-)
Title: Defender TD5 Rebuild
Post by: grizzlychicken on April 28, 2020, 06:29 PM
Ok thanks Bill!

So I’m going to skip to what I’m currently working on which is my ad west four bolts light weight steering box. So I have pulled it apart slowly and I think this is the original box and has had no servicing in the past. It was quite the rusty mess to pull apart!
I first had to pull off the main steering arm which one reading about it is a bugger to get off for everybody. I ended up modifying the stand I welded together for my transmission overhaul (One of my first weld jobs!) so it would fit underneath the press that I have. I finally got the arm off after 10 tons of force!

(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200429/5607cf758b5b22335fa02f390c04e4ac.jpg)

The next real bugger of a job was to peel off the oversized retaining clip. It looks so easy in some of the videos I looked at but took hours of man handling as it was rusted in place.

(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200429/5e4d4e529f5cb4452d6e26791c899fc9.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200429/8eaded7be6bec8663a874643ab320775.jpg)

After that I thought I was on the home stretch but the next adjuster which has a super shallow slot was also stuck. I made a tool to remove it: out of an old socket and flat bar but ended up having to tack weld  the tool to the adjuster but to get it to budge.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200429/9f4548af44568c181a70cbfa9b20ced8.jpg)


(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200429/9513857d073c8c0e9a81aee7ac21295f.jpg)

Ok now that I’ve pulled it all apart I am starting to inspect the shafts. The main shaft has what I have found out is pretty typical wear on the output shaft:
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200429/3d779e559d6759ec0dd79aa48b8581ac.jpg)

Unfortunately the worm gear has a pretty good groove in it. It almost looks cracked but I think it is just a ridge of metal. I have tried to buff it up with emery paper but I don’t think it will come out :(

(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200429/9ae16fb92d9477f98d2c57075972d49e.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200429/d87e62756c73521a926b4f3436755375.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200429/9a81a68399c4abecfa16e89e6665a53e.jpg)

So just pricing the shafts out is ridiculous for price. My options:
-Buy a new or recon box looks like £250-500 depending on the source.
-Source a used box and pull the guts out (although my box needs quite a bit of TLC to get rid of some of the rust)
Thoughts? Anyone have a spare shaft or two? I might post an ask on the wanted page too...
Title: Re: Defender TD5 Rebuild
Post by: Red90 on April 28, 2020, 06:50 PM
Your best bet is to throw that out and get a used box from a Disco 1 at a wreckers or off of someone around here that has a yard full of Discos.
Title: Defender TD5 Rebuild
Post by: grizzlychicken on April 28, 2020, 06:52 PM
Your best bet is to throw that out and get a used box from a Disco 1 at a wreckers or off of someone around here that has a yard full of Discos.
Thanks John,
So a disco 1 has the same steering box as a defender 110? Any ideas on where to source it?


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Title: Re: Defender TD5 Rebuild
Post by: grizzlychicken on April 28, 2020, 07:19 PM
Maybe the box from this could fit??
https://www.picknpull.com/vehicle_details.aspx?VIN=SALJY1240TA195981


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Title: Re: Defender TD5 Rebuild
Post by: Red90 on April 28, 2020, 07:44 PM
There is one at pick n pull. But call around to make sure a box is available. I’m pretty sure that they should be the same.

https://row52.com/Vehicle/Index/SALJY1240TA195981
Title: Re: Defender TD5 Rebuild
Post by: binch on April 28, 2020, 08:00 PM
RRC's use the same box as well.   that's what I had in my 110 for the past 10 years....until I replaced it with a rebuilt unit I got from BP.     I was going to have it rebuilt but the oilfield prices here made it more expensive then a brand new one!

You might want to keep an eye on the pitman arm as some drop more then others (between the discos/RRCs and the defenders).

Great write up so far shane!!! ;)
Title: Re: Defender TD5 Rebuild
Post by: Red90 on April 28, 2020, 08:05 PM
You need to use the Defender pitman arm. The Discos use a different track arm setup. You can switch to the Disco style by using its track rod but would need a mount for the steering damper.
Title: Defender TD5 Rebuild
Post by: grizzlychicken on April 29, 2020, 10:09 PM
Awesome info thanks guys! Looks like a trip into Calgary to pick and pull! Will have to be next week and hope the steering box is there! Can use my steering arm. I put my box back together to keep it all organized and not lose bits.

Ok so where was I....... oh yes I had just powder coated my undercarriage!

So with the frame sorted and the running gear renewed I moved onto examining the bodywork. The base color under the remains was the typical defender green. Unfortunately whoever painted it was covering up some shoddy bodywork and was using some kind of cheap beadliner to do it. So the bulkhead seems nice and straight but both  B Pilar’s and C Pilar’s weren’t lining up.

Here you can see why one side wasn’t!
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200430/d4715f39a0e735970a6b306248191cc3.jpg)

So I ordered both B Pilar’s and C Pilar’s from yrm metal solutions which are awesome and had them welded to the sill rail by high wood customs. John O was kind enough to do a drive by to help measure up the spacing from his defender and cross reference to the current rover spacing.

So brand new and aligned cab frame! Yay!
Next was the right rear quarter panel. I knew it would be in rough shape as that is were it must have been hit. Once I peeled the checker plate off it showed some missing metal and some twisted bits!

I ordered some reasonably priced rear pieces for the quarters and corner guards. The guys at highwood again helped me with replacing a chunk of the rear right quarter panel.

Progress pics:
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200430/c32c79696f0d16e74958427973708216.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200430/210b6271ee0b8da150fe5355bac961bd.jpg)

Final product:
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200430/b208a57b857d165c651526e7a442c4f3.jpg)

So I ordered galvanized rails for the rear quater again from yrm metal solutions but was pretty disappointed with them. They were bent in the group shipping we did as they were not packed well but they straightened out fine. The biggest issue was the massive unfinished weld that was galvanized and for me has to still be addressed. I thought it would come back much cleaner.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200430/f5e775db38d2b5a52ee4253f18365ee2.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200430/a60af8313904fc80924ea2acc946f1ab.jpg)

Ok so the rear quarters, bulkhead and cab frame were good. I am reusing the front quarters and have opted to paint strip them. The left one is a little rough and I will have to see if it will straighten out. I have replacement headlight panels so could do that but haven’t got that far yet .
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200430/bad71d07c9fb06c19e8172b45a32a0ca.jpg)

(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200430/92eba2dc9d3952393a6b90dc5f97314a.jpg)

Oh and I have 5 new doors and a new hood waiting for some love when I get there!
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200430/6587748c4c5c848b054f77f72f8b7eab.jpg)

That’s all for now. Roof update to come!


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Title: Re: Defender TD5 Rebuild
Post by: binch on April 30, 2020, 03:31 PM
Big thumbs up! ;)
Title: Re: Defender TD5 Rebuild
Post by: grizzlychicken on April 30, 2020, 11:56 PM
Here are a few more pics of the old quarters

(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200501/dec8ff1ac0354f1165d84dbf36b91bf3.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200501/c2cb4e3788d01201a7017ed60efba06f.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200501/eec3b11d0307d4f10c22c5abf9827ef4.jpg)

And repaired
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200501/84cf6faa8377f8355a00fe0c610729b1.jpg)

This is why I had the b and c Pilar’s replaced:
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200501/8c2d52f1d96dc6cad4171faef9937198.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200501/66d1a930fb6a444d9dfccc4f931934ea.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200501/d189a07e8d0a0811a2daaf4add550b04.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200501/273b636dd9929fb398bc70e93475dc08.jpg)


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Title: Re: Defender TD5 Rebuild
Post by: binch on May 01, 2020, 05:36 AM
I was just thinking.....Wurth makes a good body cavity waxoil that would suit the insides of those pillars nicely.  Not cheap but it's a good product.   I used it in the 'A' pillars of my 110 and applied it to my foot wells (inside the cab) before I installed my Accoustic matting system. ;)
Title: Re: Defender TD5 Rebuild
Post by: grizzlychicken on May 01, 2020, 10:37 AM
I was just thinking.....Wurth makes a good body cavity waxoil that would suit the insides of those pillars nicely.  Not cheap but it's a good product.   I used it in the 'A' pillars of my 110 and applied it to my foot wells (inside the cab) before I installed my Accoustic matting system. ;)
Ok thanks bill. I have some wax oil that I was going to use on my chassis. I do want to do an internal coating on the Pilar’s to protect these bits and might do a primer then the wax oil!


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Title: Defender TD5 Rebuild
Post by: grizzlychicken on May 01, 2020, 01:33 PM
Before I move on to chat about my roof I wanted to chat about the chassis a little. The chassis I got was the heavy duty galvanized bearmach version.
The chassis is generally well made but I was a little surprised with some of the differences from the original defender chassis.
-difference #1 is the mounting point for the rear floor is not directly welded to the rear cross member . There is a separate piece that you bolt to the chassis. I imagine this is for adjustability of the body to chassis.
-the hole configuration in the rear crossmember is different.
Old chassis note the welded tabs for the floor support and hole location that the hitch locator pins are made for:
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200501/d2177bc21815094afda794ac1b8f2b5b.jpg)

(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200501/19b4ad8ac2eff19e6159e0378a4f12c5.jpg)
New frame note difference in hole location in rear crossmember and no welded tabs( I’ll try to find a pic of the support piece):

(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200501/948a1841d2dfc30feec1a13ed0a21615.jpg)

Note the locating pins on the hitch setup
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200501/bc8826af17f70fc08b36e8a57ccf4aa3.jpg)

The aesthetics of this is not a big deal but the main issue is that the hitch mount i pulled from my old frame isn’t compatible with the new frame as the mounting guide holes didn’t line up.

So adam Welded a new support and cut into his frame. Thinking about either that route or modifying the hitch receiver pins somehow.
Shame it is already powdercoated and galvanized as will have to be grounded for welding a new bit in..
What would you do?


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Title: Re: Defender TD5 Rebuild
Post by: DBrands on May 01, 2020, 02:54 PM
The floor support tabs on your old frame don't appear to be centered? Or is that just your bent frame throwing me for a loop?

Those are some awfully large 'jack points' on the new frame...
Title: Re: Defender TD5 Rebuild
Post by: binch on May 01, 2020, 06:27 PM
If it were me......I would leave the frame galvanizing intact and weld some mounting feet onto the pegs that go into the old bumper.    Since you aren't using the military bumperettes those feet can be bolted into the frame via the bolt holes on the chassis that are normally used for the inside bumperette mounts.    That way you keep the strength and integrity of the chassis nice new finish.   In fact....if the bumper hasn't been galvanized yet then once you've finish welding the feet on, and have the hold drilled out get the pumper done too ;-)

If I'm not mistaken the chassis' you got on that order were https://www.britpart.com/parts/chassis-and-body-components/chassis-complete/kvd500730hd

I'm rather surprized the body mounting tabs welded to the chassis though :o    Did they include tabs with the chassis?????
Title: Defender TD5 Rebuild
Post by: grizzlychicken on May 02, 2020, 12:55 AM
If it were me......I would leave the frame galvanizing intact and weld some mounting feet onto the pegs that go into the old bumper.    Since you aren't using the military bumperettes those feet can be bolted into the frame via the bolt holes on the chassis that are normally used for the inside bumperette mounts.    That way you keep the strength and integrity of the chassis nice new finish.   In fact....if the bumper hasn't been galvanized yet then once you've finish welding the feet on, and have the hold drilled out get the pumper done too ;-)

If I'm not mistaken the chassis' you got on that order were https://www.britpart.com/parts/chassis-and-body-components/chassis-complete/kvd500730hd

I'm rather surprized the body mounting tabs welded to the chassis though :o    Did they include tabs with the chassis?????
Yes I think it is a britpart frame. Not sure who manufactures those for them. Is it marsland? Yup I was uppeised about the body mount tabs too. Yes the tabs do come with the frame.

I think I see where you’re going with the hitch. I would prefer not to drill or weld on the finished chassis and want to get that planning sorted before I start to put it all back together.
So something like this (excuse the bad sketch)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200502/311826a8b27b898179860cb3325ceda0.jpg)

(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200502/21c4377df8e472b6e1c97d25b9a4dc58.jpg)
Something like this bad sketch might work. As long as it will hold up to the hitch forces


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Title: Re: Defender TD5 Rebuild
Post by: binch on May 02, 2020, 10:30 PM
Yup, that's what I'm thinking.    I was just looking at cutting the post back to it's stump and welding the mount to the stump.   Making the foot plate connect between that old stump and over to the bolts in the bumper should support it well.
Title: Defender TD5 Rebuild
Post by: grizzlychicken on May 07, 2020, 12:24 PM
Thanks for the input bill. I may even weld the corner protectors onto that piece...

Ok so when I rebuilt the transfer case I chatted to the head honcho at Ashcroft and he recommended changing the output shaft of the transmission. The output shaft splines often get worn which is another eventual reason for loss of drive to your wheels. My spline wasn’t to bad some minor rounding but it was all apart so now was the time to do it.  With installing a new input gear in the transfer case this made sense so I ordered a shaft and the transmission rebuild kit. I also had a wobbly input shaft so I knew I at least had to replace the bearing there but decided on that shaft too as the splines for the clutch plate also had some wear.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200507/e9cc1e100c4d14d68b0c395e478a5abe.jpg)

The oils plug had some metal filings so think it was a good choice to do the r380 overhaul.

For(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200507/6da6b2bb8de28fd2e62db0894645ff6f.jpg)
First cover plate off and gears were looking good with little wear.  The challenge with all of these is removing the collar that secures the housing on which is press fit. It is a bugger to remove!
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200507/64ff3447aa5e6004c4a0f157b755cdf7.jpg)
So got it apart on my workbench where it honestly stayed for a few months. I had trouble with removing the main shaft bearings as you can see in this pic and I needed to pretty up the casing. Now I was replacing the shaft but needed the gears to get to the next step. Unfortunately my shop press was sitting in a provincial parks workshop and they closed access so had to try to make an alternate puller. You can have a chuckle at my attempts :)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200507/f7f0e4ed689807d4b115277b2f037ca0.jpg)
This worked for pulling the lay shaft bearing.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200507/41cf86e14497c9d58dce102f4e1a1abc.jpg)
Had trouble with the main shaft. Tried it under the gear but the high tensile bolts that come with the puller weren’t long enough and the threaded rod uprights and puller clamp bolts were too flexy. I had the threaded rod would closer to end of the shaft too and unsuccessful. This attempt had the pushing bolt too extended so it levered and flexed away from the shaft Centre.

(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200507/ca73db9ed8ea66988f93f0d7eadd7163.jpg)
I thought I was cleaver but this didn’t work at all!

(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200507/0131ce3e4d3a762ef78d788a138ab086.jpg)
Destroyed the bearing but this was the clear winner. Had to make the top bar out of square tubing and drill a hole for the shaft locator bolt. You can see the threaded rod was stripped at one point!


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Title: Defender TD5 Rebuild
Post by: grizzlychicken on May 07, 2020, 12:44 PM
From there I had my shafts stripped and went to the local welding shop to get some various diameter pipes to use to press the new bearings on.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200507/84b47d208e30910bca042a2fdb0d52d2.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200507/aec8057371e5b36cabac7f80a1c2bb64.jpg)

I then had a go at making a transmission stand by welding some scrap angle together. I’m not re best welder but this worked.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200507/50cf4066269f580b1a8fdcb197ceaefc.jpg)
Here is the contraption while test fitting the outer casing and checking the end float. At this point all of the bearings including the needle rollers had been replaced and all the syncro rings were replaced and everything was pressed back to the right tolerance on the main shaft.

I cleaned out the casing with the parts washer then sandblasted it and polished it with a wire brush before painting it and curing the paint in the oven. I put this in another thread but it came out great!
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200507/16eb952b4f0f1a0a6cd3854f73a81a8d.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200507/c32ab09bc3a42212b26736d598e45807.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200507/537539dbc5f348ea919ffb9812ef96a7.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200507/78e7c0a5e3d20277da01a7a706b5b6f4.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200507/72e8ab89ff6729d907edadb4ab56d427.jpg)



(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200507/d1ddbaf0c043f702838e57aac2c8eb70.jpg)
Home built press for the final collar.

Super happy with how it turned out and now have a virtually new box!
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200507/a40516893b6468234f15fa2b3e45138c.jpg)

Next will be steering box blues......


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Title: Re: Defender TD5 Rebuild
Post by: binch on May 07, 2020, 07:10 PM
I was going to rebuild my steering box but it was far cheaper to buy a rebuilt one from BP.

Well done Shane!!!!
Title: Defender TD5 Rebuild
Post by: grizzlychicken on May 14, 2020, 01:06 PM
Well Bill, the cheapest “rebuilt” steering box I found was on eBay for around £280 so 500 bucks plus a core charge. New boxes look around 800-1000 plus. Thought the seal kit at around $20 was worth a crack. Steering box is in process but in the mean time I’ve been rebuilding my brakes.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200514/d588b55e08c1d594af21d0d54c58917d.jpg)

Pulled them off the truck and decided to get 2 new rear calipers
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200514/da41b1d2eadbe23639ae193f9f5a8e8e.jpg)

So had them powdercoated along with the front calipers and picked up a stainless piston set and new seal kit.

(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200514/22053bb1747a0695a424ce5503e11c44.jpg)

Spent some time rebuilding the calipers
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200514/4c382046c8831bed6c5850c98e19829b.jpg)
Unfortunately the powder coating had some overspray on the lip for the dust caps. So had to scrape it back to bear metal.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200514/eeb1c9f4df3aeb0c0aa1c59efb5bbfd3.jpg)
The next challenge was to install the dust caps without bending them! Lots of advice online about this but I ended up using a g clamp and flat piece of metal to get a square insert.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200514/8d728693d5ba4da9813870f051b000e2.jpg)
And just like that I have a new set of nice looking brake calipers that should outlast me!
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200514/c6db5ecba55c0a864d11ca28f803f2ad.jpg)


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Title: Re: Defender TD5 Rebuild
Post by: binch on May 14, 2020, 09:49 PM
what are the nuts for (on the caliper) that were painted too? ???
Title: Re: Defender TD5 Rebuild
Post by: grizzlychicken on May 17, 2020, 10:31 AM
what are the nuts for (on the caliper) that were painted too? ???
So the bolts that were powdercoated are mostly to split the caliper. I powdercoated them as I don’t see myself splitting the caliper. There is a smaller bolt on the rear caliper near the brake pipe bleeders that I powdercoated too. To be honest I’m not sure if it’s function. Perhaps a bleeder? I haven’t used it when bleeding the brakes in the past. I figure if it ends up being neede to be functional I’ll just change the bolt


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Title: Defender TD5 Rebuild
Post by: grizzlychicken on May 17, 2020, 11:34 AM
Ok so as you can see from an earlier post my steering box was in bad shape, even the case had significant corrosion along with the inner parts including shafts having significant wear.
So found that the disco at pick and pull had its steering box still so time for open heart surgery!
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200517/2ff78a7db014e39f32a974cd8aa4a146.jpg)

So the box I pulled had obviously been leaking so hoping I wasn’t exchanging bad for bad!
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200517/a6da11147006c4d40de2f72e28c16943.jpg)

However as I cleaned it up it was obviously not corroded and much easier to pull down cleanly

(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200517/14f329e7d8209f08368c1aca4953c297.jpg)

(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200517/676d017c026777d9fa47c83318345474.jpg)

I didn’t have the specialized oversized Allen key type socket for the large recessed socket so found actually that a set of vice grips fit nicely in the points of the groove and by using a screwdriver between the jaws it camed out the jaws to allow it to lock in and be able to turn the oversized socket
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200517/ad405d19fd37efbed221391a18166d71.jpg)


So wanted to clean it up and paint but the internal bearings are supposed to be non serviceable. I removed the guts and sealed the unit by using thick plastic while holding it in place with the existing cir-clips which worked a treat!
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200517/c1c1c04dfe8338bcbfa28098528e2428.jpg)

So then into the home made sandblast cabinet made from an old dishwasher.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200517/43774a749c06b4b6dbf8d09db6b4f0d8.jpg)

The seals held up great so then parts washer:
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200517/ee10f8424f1ab9459fa592b58fcf422e.jpg)

Then etch prime:


(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200517/3ee862fe3809631ca8cc132d1a68e9b9.jpg)

Paint with engine enamel
 (https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200517/c7677f9e593f846f2f7992be5097453f.jpg)

Then the rebuild of the guts!
The output shaft is commonly corroded and the new shaft ha some seal lines but not nearly as bad as the original box shaft.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200517/8b512f1defc4a7c303c512a9dcbd6845.jpg)
So wet sanded the shaft with 1000 grit sandpaper and the seal surface cleaned up perfectly.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200517/3d4e9ae149c5e5f234e235fff6551668.jpg)
Then rebuilt the box with all new seals, setting the preloads with my hand scale:
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200517/4aa1ced1971dc3b9466c3832316bfbc5.jpg)

Happy with that and went on to reinstall the drop arm. Here is the defender droparm side by side with disco droparm.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200517/2ddc5590103074a742c0d9f626b23987.jpg)

And now pretty happy to have a rebuilt box!
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200517/13a700a495e9cb5d620f7cc64cc92016.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200517/9d7138911f25650ede3b08c7733417bd.jpg)


Fingers crossed it stays liquid tight!


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Title: Re: Defender TD5 Rebuild
Post by: binch on May 18, 2020, 11:13 AM
Well done sir!!!!   I hope it works well too!

I gotta ask.....did you grow up on a farm or in a logging camp, as a kid?

You are doing a bang up job with this tread Shane!
Title: Re: Defender TD5 Rebuild
Post by: grizzlychicken on May 19, 2020, 09:29 PM
Well done sir!!!!   I hope it works well too!

I gotta ask.....did you grow up on a farm or in a logging camp, as a kid?

You are doing a bang up job with this tread Shane!
Ha thanks Bill. No farm or logging camp. I grew up in rural Australia in a town of 30,000. Always liked cars and tinkering though. Had a 76 volkswagon kombi van that I pulled the engine and trans down and had the trans rebuilt for a circumnavigation of Australia in ‘94 I think. I tinker with lots of stuff :)

 


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Title: Re: Defender TD5 Rebuild
Post by: binch on May 19, 2020, 09:57 PM
Well it shows you have the gift ;)
Title: Defender TD5 Rebuild
Post by: grizzlychicken on May 23, 2020, 12:08 AM
Started to tackle the differentials and suspension rebuild.
For the front diff the swivel housings has some good wear and this is part of the reason that there is some leakage here.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200520/1bedb34a7de1a856578f4d3ba7b6096b.jpg)
So I ordered 2 new swivel housing kits and while they were coming I decided to strip both differentials down and have the powdercoated
After getting these puppies back from the powdercoater it is always a good idea to power wash and scrub the inside. They sandblast these casings before powdercoating so I wanted to get rid of any residual particles. A toilet cleaning brush I picked up for $5 at the hardware store taped to a broom handle worked a great to clean out the shafts.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200520/2554645548c06822d85b1b33d188add7.jpg)

After inspecting the stub axels on the front I found they had some wear too so decided to do stub axel, new wheel and cv bearings and seals. It will be like a new axel :)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200520/d2eac8ce9f9629edb250f28bfb1011c4.jpg)

(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200520/24423cf1c9907390ad36b4d6e85c57ce.jpg)

So the new stub axels arrived and one side was perfect! The other side not so much. During manufacture of this Bearmach stub axel the threaded end was miscast and the wheel bearing nut wouldn’t thread on. (https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200520/79ec26c5abfb6886d05fb2770b164fa0.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200520/8aa84dfb1f2eeebfc12a97d09e7a87ec.jpg)
Bearmach were really good about replacing the stub axel and It arrived within a week. My only issue was I had installed the bushing, bearing and seal. Fortunately I had another seal and when I talked to Bearmach they were confident I could reuse the bearing and bushing.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200520/c44187debfc35ec4200d0f9eff7043d1.jpg)

Ok let me tell you it is quite a challenge to remove the bushing and the bearing. For the bearing I ended up using a curved tire iron to carefully tap it out. Success!
For the bushing I used an angle grinder to cut a slot just below the bushing at 180 degrees to each other. Then heated the bushing by up and used a couple of screwdrivers to pry the bearing off.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200520/c76b9773f7c32540ca6d422a68d0367c.jpg)

Success again!
.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200520/29d81dc12cb656f698840f26a8535db1.jpg)

So got the front axel together now
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200523/7a43d598de4e9c5e3da3bc3758ec1d16.jpg)

Next onto the rear Salisbury!


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Title: Re: Defender TD5 Rebuild
Post by: grizzlychicken on May 24, 2020, 11:49 PM
Ok so I wasn’t finished here yet........
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200525/e357f56bb0adc8d35e9a83bc9c1b29c3.jpg)
Had a bolt shear off when I went to stake the wheel nut. Dam it!
So had to drill it out.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200525/e268b090e9e7cf6c6cf52438e421f0ad.jpg)
Then used an extraction tool to get it out.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200525/4770ccbb90b4caa25d9531ef5b588792.jpg)
At least it wasn’t too stuck in there.


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Title: Re: Defender TD5 Rebuild
Post by: grizzlychicken on May 25, 2020, 12:01 AM
I needed to install the new bushings I had into all the suspension components. I looked around at different options and wanted something that wouldn’t affect the road handling negatively/give a rougher ride. These bushings were well reviewed to actually improve road performance from the standard rubber bushings.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200525/9c8b9a06540ccb11f219c866d4e6142d.jpg)

So went about getting them all pressed in. It turns out that the grease they include with my vice worked a treat for install.

 https://youtu.be/ijwl9-ZN83c (https://youtu.be/ijwl9-ZN83c)

I’m really happy with how the suspension component rebuilt went.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200525/d3f35633d5c326be052107c85f6810ef.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200525/d397d1a49e04a69d50c1b08084e8edf5.jpg)
They are all new and shiny!


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Title: Defender TD5 Rebuild
Post by: grizzlychicken on May 25, 2020, 12:06 AM
Using copper anticorrosion compound on all the main structural components that don’t ask for Loctite.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200525/e25f771066ab07f0eef14fb4ffda60ee.jpg)


And here is it all installed on the front diff.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200525/b2e56a72571d71ff26f089f1e59b76e8.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200525/d14bc0b97d2feeef5a7832aa000c34fd.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200525/f7d2e4ef7f06310ac37e245fa135ca31.jpg)

It sure is pretty ;)

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Title: Re: Defender TD5 Rebuild
Post by: binch on May 25, 2020, 05:28 AM
Very nice ;)
Title: Re: Defender TD5 Rebuild
Post by: Red90 on May 25, 2020, 08:12 AM
Just an FYI.  With the dual rate springs, it is better to put the close coils facing up.
Title: Re: Defender TD5 Rebuild
Post by: grizzlychicken on May 25, 2020, 08:16 AM
Just an FYI.  With the dual rate springs, it is better to put the close coils facing up.
Good to know thanks John. They are just put there for the pic for now.


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Title: Re: Defender TD5 Rebuild
Post by: grizzlychicken on May 25, 2020, 11:43 AM
Moving the chassis into my home made paint booth. Decided to clear coat it for extra shine and protection.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200525/f58033312b702db94258c22eafad317a.jpg)

What could possibly go wrong.......
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200525/b727e99adcaceed1ebe7b5f7cfa0deca.jpg)


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Title: Re: Defender TD5 Rebuild
Post by: Matt H on May 26, 2020, 10:55 PM
Can I ask that you let us know how you like those Superpro bushings when the Rover is released back into the wild please?
I ran the Polly bush brand in the past on our old LR3 and the Mighty Range Rover and been disappointed. Went back to rubber in the end on the RRC, sold the LR3.
Title: Re: Defender TD5 Rebuild
Post by: grizzlychicken on May 28, 2020, 08:27 PM
Can I ask that you let us know how you like those Superpro bushings when the Rover is released back into the wild please?
I ran the Polly bush brand in the past on our old LR3 and the Mighty Range Rover and been disappointed. Went back to rubber in the end on the RRC, sold the LR3.
Sure thing Matt. Yes I was going to go with rubber but after trolling the forums these looked good so will keep you posted!


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Title: Re: Defender TD5 Rebuild
Post by: grizzlychicken on May 28, 2020, 08:45 PM
Worked on setting up my paint booth in the garage. Happy with how it turned out. Have a furnace filter taped up high for intake and a strong extraction fan at the other end down low to have a bit of a down draft system
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200529/593619416b61591d13c51f666d786dfc.jpg)
Washed then wet sanded the chassis with 600grit. Then washed it down again with a lint free cloth and used the compressor to air dry it a bit. Will leave it for a few days to dry out then will clear coat.
Wetting down the floor helps keep any dust down.


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Title: Re: Defender TD5 Rebuild
Post by: Matt H on May 28, 2020, 10:37 PM
Wow, a 600 grit wet sanded chassis! Talk about the extra mile. You certainly are putting a lot of effort into this rebuild. Nice job.

Now I feel embarrassed to say I didn’t even wash my chassis before I went ahead and welded up the rear cross member  :-[
Title: Re: Defender TD5 Rebuild
Post by: binch on May 28, 2020, 10:56 PM
Yup, I'm enjoying this write up!!!   ;)
Title: Defender TD5 Rebuild
Post by: grizzlychicken on May 29, 2020, 12:15 AM
Wow, a 600 grit wet sanded chassis! Talk about the extra mile. You certainly are putting a lot of effort into this rebuild. Nice job.

Now I feel embarrassed to say I didn’t even wash my chassis before I went ahead and welded up the rear cross member  :-[
Ha! It’s just to give the clear coat something to stick too. Not sure how it will turn out as it’s my first attempt to clearcoat over powdercoat. No kudos until the clear coat’s done!


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Title: Re: Defender TD5 Rebuild
Post by: grizzlychicken on May 29, 2020, 11:26 PM
Ok so got the clear coat done today yay!
With my limited painting experience it was kind of tricky to spray due to all the brackets, corners and edges and to be honest I wasn’t sure how it would turn out during clear coating as it was drying at different rates. I must say the paint booth worked a great and I didn’t see any dust specs on the paint which is good news moving forward. Because I didn’t file down all the galv imperfections there are spikes here and there and some uneven surfaces from the galv process but all that is going to be covered by the body anyway.

So here is the finish under lights:
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200530/b19e6bf2b9d66bc481461bc577ed8737.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200530/03645b32faa7c7b922c1abe738eda5d7.jpg)

Again super happy with it. I know chassis paint/finish combos are endless but in the end I wanted the shine more than the Matt finish as it matches all the powder-coated parts way better. Here is a pic of the new chassis clear, the powdercoated gloss and the powder coated Matt finishes:
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200530/1ce673445b28c856738b8d9d5fa6e694.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200530/345cfb7a4965a4669786d008d7218cf9.jpg)

Next it’s on to putting a rolling chassis together! I am pumped that the chassis prep is now done! Oh except for the chassis wax.........should I thread the wiring loom first then wax or wax first then thread......

Onto the axels!


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Title: Re: Defender TD5 Rebuild
Post by: binch on May 30, 2020, 10:15 AM
You shouldn't need to wax a galvanized chassis I wouldn't think.  ???
Title: Re: Defender TD5 Rebuild
Post by: Matt H on May 30, 2020, 01:39 PM
Nice thing about a gloss finish is it’s easier to wash clean than a matt finish. Muck doesn’t stick to it quite as much.

I agree with Bill, once galvanized you shouldn’t really need any other treatments like waxoil etc. They make a horrid mess and tend to attract dirt anyway. It’s impossible to effectively clean inside a chassis once in the field anyway and most rust from the inside out. I think you have already done what you can to future proof the chassis.

Turned out nice
Title: Re: Defender TD5 Rebuild
Post by: grizzlychicken on June 01, 2020, 12:07 AM
Great thanks guys. It is interesting reading a few forums about this topic. Some  are for doing the cavity wax for just the inside of a galv chassis and some say it isn’t necessary. I might take a wander to the interior of the chassis with a little inspection camera I have. I expect I’ll see just galv if it was done right and that should be it :)

I managed to work on the front end and attach suspension and steering parts to the chassis. It was quite satisfying. I find it is pretty important to torque things as you go so as not to forget anything!
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200601/55a97761314e93a2104f7d766e49ac91.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200601/72016229d7fdb70e173504d97f52be41.jpg)
I decided to go with ranch shocks that are adjustable so I can turn the ride a bit depending on what I’m using it for.
I also upgraded the shock bushings to the super pro bushings.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200601/2b2b32c7284e1b8876a1005e71fad2ee.jpg)
I’m keeping the rubber bushings in case I don’t like the ride with the super pros.


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Title: Re: Defender TD5 Rebuild
Post by: Matt H on June 01, 2020, 01:45 AM
You may want to back off the suspension bushing bolts and leave them loose for now. Then torque the suspension bolts to spec with the fully assembled vehicle, total weight, sitting on its tyres at ride height.  Once torqued I try to remember to witness mark everything with a paint pen. Then you can tell at a glance if stuff has shifted.
Title: Re: Defender TD5 Rebuild
Post by: grizzlychicken on June 01, 2020, 04:13 PM
You may want to back off the suspension bushing bolts and leave them loose for now. Then torque the suspension bolts to spec with the fully assembled vehicle, total weight, sitting on its tyres at ride height.  Once torqued I try to remember to witness mark everything with a paint pen. Then you can tell at a glance if stuff has shifted.
Thanks Matt. Great advice! I was planning to retorque when I drop it down but if my pea brain forgets to check a fixing at least it was torqued properly at this stage :)

I feel like I have a new 10,000 piece puzzle that has some ratty pieces that don’t quite fit and some newer pieces. And like any second hand puzzle there are always pieces missing. Not necessarily lost but put in it’s special place to be deactivated once you had to go by the new piece ;)

And it’s hard to put those ratty looking pieces back next to the new pieces! I keep going to fastenal to get more new shiny bits!

I started with the cardboard truck to label fasteners but soon realized I would need too many sheets:
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200601/0f94f728ba63c90b18427d1d2ecbc382.jpg)

I then went to zip lock bags and labeled as I went. Perhaps didn’t label well enough.........

(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200601/c54a1e8ec45b9d2b0cd197922808f247.jpg)

At least the YRM order is labeled so I can look back.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200601/9e72745a561167f325c748d0743724fb.jpg)

I tell you what though this site is awesome for helping guide the puzzle:
https://www.lrworkshop.com/diagrams


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Title: Re: Defender TD5 Rebuild
Post by: grizzlychicken on June 01, 2020, 06:22 PM
Oh and I was doing a little fastener research and found this nice little chart that looks at stainless steel vs regular steel for tensile strength.  The highest rated Stainless hardware is still not quite as strong as the SAE 8.8 steel hardware.  The other interesting fact was that stainless is pretty dissimilar to aluminum in alloy content so galvanic corrosion will occur more frequently with this setup than with using zinc oxide which is more similar in material properties.  i'm sure the readers here are much more up to date on this than me bu found these tidbits interesting.  Oh and I believe  that is including using anti oxidant paste between dissimilar metals.
 
Title: Re: Defender TD5 Rebuild
Post by: Matt H on June 02, 2020, 12:47 PM
I would still loosen those bolts off completely and torque them once you’re done building the truck if I were you.

The reason being if you torque them now, once you get it all back together and sitting at ride height the chassis will sit much lower in relation to the axles (due to the increased sprung weight of the body, engine etc.) thus putting permanent torque through the bushes.

If you torque them fully loaded at ride height they will sit in a more neutral position, last far longer and not give weird handling as the suspension flexes.

Clear as mud?

Good luck with your puzzle! That’s a lot of bits and pieces.
Title: Defender TD5 Rebuild
Post by: grizzlychicken on June 05, 2020, 12:52 AM
Thanks Matt will do!

Salisbury diff blues.
 
So I have started setting up the rear diff! I am going to be asking advice on this one for sure! I am following the manual I found online for the setup which looks pretty standard:
http://site.lrch.nl/sites/default/files/Differentieel%20Salisbury.pdf

After inspecting the pinion bearings and cones they look in good condition so I am not changing them out. I did install the pinion and rechecked the pinion height. I did have a bit of backlash in the rear diff so wanted to make sure the pinion height wasn’t a reason.

The manual talks about a a standard height block that is 30.93mm. So the low point on the bearing race support to the pinion head should be that exact distance averaged side to side. I did t have the block or the special gauge so improvised with a dial gauge and calipers
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200605/7935bedb4b584d468915bcd51b241ce4.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200605/9571246b4eab3cef61dfcc000a635f93.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200605/7875330f61696072ff621adb4b25b187.jpg)
Since you have to carefully move the assembly back and fourth I measured multiple times to get a good sense of the pinion height which looked good.

So on the the center diff. I decided to upgrade the center diff to a LSD trutrac diff center.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200605/72e1020f97c796c863ec3b6732a1c85c.jpg)

So installed the crown wheel as per the manual. The manual talks about making marks and lining the crown wheel up to the mark but with then new center I don’t think it matters.

(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200605/3da5a372634b48ea925dd42e8d74134b.jpg)

So here comes the confusing part for me. The manual talks about installing the carrier bearings without the shims and from what I understand without the pinion. Then it talks about first checking if there is runout on the crownwheel with a dial gauge.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200605/5cdcafe589d013cecbddab987a19c746.jpg)

From there it then talks about levering the diff assembly to the right then left and measure in the dial gauge the displacement.
Has anyone done this process? For me without the shims installed the diff would lock when rotated. I don’t think there is enough lateral pressure on the bearings and the sort shaft bearing is shifting and locking with rotation
https://youtu.be/X_Bf7_JJWDM  (https://youtu.be/X_Bf7_JJWDM)

 https://youtu.be/jWiQGH7kMwk  (https://youtu.be/jWiQGH7kMwk)

So I think I’ll pull the bearings on both diffs, install the same shims that were in the old diff on the new diff and see if that solves it.

These Salisbury diffs weren’t designed very well for ease of shimming and changing the lateral shims easily. I have to use a bearing puller each time I want to changes shims making sure I don’t destroy the bearing cone. Certainly not a very user friendly way to change shims. And since it needs some preload you also need a diff spreader to install the shimmed assembly. (I’m building one of these.) tricky to that the least....

Or maybe it’s my poor mechanical or manual reading skills........


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Title: Re: Defender TD5 Rebuild
Post by: Red90 on June 05, 2020, 06:42 AM
This should make you hate Dana diffs for a long time and dream of working on ones with carrier bearing adjusters. Whoever thought it was a good idea to put the shims between the pressed on bearings and the carrier was evil.

Do you have any friends around with experience setting up Dana diffs?  It is a Dana 60.  They are very common.  There are also a ton of videos and writeups on the net that may help.

To the specific points.  On pinion height, you are best to wait for the contact pattern and decide then. Generally though, if you are using a used R&P, you do not want to change pinion height as it has worn in at the previous height. On the carrier bearings, you seem to be mixing up two instructions.  One is to check runout.  The following and separate procedure is to measure the total thickness of shims needed. Many people don't do it that way, because it is hard to measure well (without experience) and you end up being wrong. Typically people use setup bearings that do not need to be pressed on to figure out shims. That way, you can quickly figure out shims to set backlash where you want and then add 5 thou for the preload. Some people simply look at how hard it is to seat the assembly to set preload.
Title: Defender TD5 Rebuild
Post by: grizzlychicken on June 05, 2020, 07:01 AM
This should make you hate Dana diffs for a long time and dream of working on ones with carrier bearing adjusters. Whoever thought it was a good idea to put the shims between the pressed on bearings and the carrier was evil.

Do you have any friends around with experience setting up Dana diffs?  It is a Dana 60.  They are very common.  There are also a ton of videos and writeups on the net that may help.

To the specific points.  On pinion height, you are best to wait for the contact pattern and decide then. Generally though, if you are using a used R&P, you do not want to change pinion height as it has worn in at the previous height. On the carrier bearings, you seem to be mixing up two instructions.  One is to check runout.  The following and separate procedure is to measure the total thickness of shims needed. Many people don't do it that way, because it is hard to measure well (without experience) and you end up being wrong. Typically people use setup bearings that do not need to be pressed on to figure out shims. That way, you can quickly figure out shims to set backlash where you want and then add 5 thou for the preload. Some people simply look at how hard it is to seat the assembly to set preload.
Ah the setup bearings make total sense. So could you somehow modify the old bearing using say emery paper (yes slow I know!)/ Dremel or can you order a specific bearing for setup somewhere at reasonable cost?
Unfortunately I don’t know anyone who has set up this kind of diff :(
For the carrier assembly I did try to check the runout but the carrier assembly locks when you go to rotate it because I believe it isn’t shimmed. I am assuming the shims will be similar between the old diff carrier and the new LSD carrier but will still need to measure that in step 2.
I think I got a bit excited when I installed the bearings without any shims.
Just overall not a very intuitive process!

Oh and the carrier is a heavy sucker. Almost got my fingers crunched a few times. It is easy to get your fingers caught in the spline shaft holes!


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Title: Re: Defender TD5 Rebuild
Post by: Red90 on June 05, 2020, 09:28 AM
Ah the setup bearings make total sense. So could you somehow modify the old bearing using say emery paper (yes slow I know!)/ Dremel or can you order a specific bearing for setup somewhere at reasonable cost?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Rxm9faJWHzQ

Google Dana 60 setup and you will find dozens of writeups and videos.  Sometimes it helps to see how others do it.
Title: Re: Defender TD5 Rebuild
Post by: Matt H on June 05, 2020, 11:33 AM
Buy new bearings, dremel out the old ones for a slip fit to set up shim thickness.

I use the previous shim packs as a starting point and go from there. Especially, as John said, with a used gear set you should be aiming to replicate as close as possible the original gear pattern.

Gear set up is a fairly organic process and not one that lends itself easily to following a technical manual.  However, once you understand how things are interrelated and how to move the gear pattern around as desired it becomes much less of a trial and error situation. 
Title: Re: Defender TD5 Rebuild
Post by: grizzlychicken on June 05, 2020, 01:06 PM
This should make you hate Dana diffs for a long time and dream of working on ones with carrier bearing adjusters. Whoever thought it was a good idea to put the shims between the pressed on bearings and the carrier was evil.

Do you have any friends around with experience setting up Dana diffs?  It is a Dana 60.  They are very common.  There are also a ton of videos and writeups on the net that may help.

To the specific points.  On pinion height, you are best to wait for the contact pattern and decide then. Generally though, if you are using a used R&P, you do not want to change pinion height as it has worn in at the previous height. On the carrier bearings, you seem to be mixing up two instructions.  One is to check runout.  The following and separate procedure is to measure the total thickness of shims needed. Many people don't do it that way, because it is hard to measure well (without experience) and you end up being wrong. Typically people use setup bearings that do not need to be pressed on to figure out shims. That way, you can quickly figure out shims to set backlash where you want and then add 5 thou for the preload. Some people simply look at how hard it is to seat the assembly to set preload.
Ah the setup bearings make total sense. So could you somehow modify the old bearing using say emery paper (yes slow I know!)/ Dremel or can you order a specific bearing for setup somewhere at reasonable cost?
Unfortunately I don’t know anyone who has set up this kind of diff :(
For the carrier assembly I did try to check the runout but the carrier assembly locks when you go to rotate it because I believe it isn’t shimmed. I am assuming the shims will be similar between the old diff carrier and the new LSD carrier but will still need to measure that in step 2.
I think I got a bit excited when I installed the bearings without any shims.
Just overall not a very intuitive process!

Oh and the carrier is a heavy sucker. Almost got my fingers crunched a few times. It is easy to get your fingers caught in the spline shaft holes!


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Fantastic thanks John! Just what I needed. I have been googling Salisbury Land Rover diff and not a lot comes up so really helpful. Now to pull the bearings without damaging them!


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Title: Re: Defender TD5 Rebuild
Post by: grizzlychicken on June 05, 2020, 01:10 PM
Buy new bearings, dremel out the old ones for a slip fit to set up shim thickness.

I use the previous shim packs as a starting point and go from there. Especially, as John said, with a used gear set you should be aiming to replicate as close as possible the original gear pattern.

Gear set up is a fairly organic process and not one that lends itself easily to following an technical manual.  However, once you understand how things are interrelated and how to move the gear pattern around as desired it becomes much less of a trial and error situation.
Thanks Matt,
Great advice. I think now with making a set of setup bearings it will be way easier to shim things up properly and get the proper tooth pattern.
I think I’m going to owe you and John a pint sometime for all your advice! Perhaps a physical distancing pint in the workshop ;)


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Title: Re: Defender TD5 Rebuild
Post by: Matt H on June 05, 2020, 01:33 PM
No worries. Looking forward to seeing this beast in the flesh, so to speak.
Title: Defender TD5 Rebuild
Post by: grizzlychicken on June 07, 2020, 12:28 AM
No worries. Looking forward to seeing this beast in the flesh, so to speak.
Well so far the beast isn’t  to pretty :). Certainly mechanically sound (I hope!). The finish paint and bodywork will be my weakness!

Today I worked on removing all the diff carrier bearings both from the old diff center and from the bearings I pressed into the new diff center.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200607/66e3a4f1c23568b4b929fe8f02eb3eb4.jpg)

Pretty happy they all came off I’d like to say without a struggle but I’d be lying!
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200607/9df3c2556c8676f0578025887fc462d2.jpg)

So went on to start to make the dummy bearings I need from the old bearings to get the thing shimmed up!
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200607/8840422faf981a06ebfa7f22bc9143c5.jpg)
It turns out that the circular sanding wheel doesn’t really fit inside this size bearing inner race so had to trim it down by 3/8 all round and it at least fits into the center now.

Trying not to keep the neighbors up with the drilling noise so will finish the inner race sanding in the morning and hopefully will shim it all up.

Oh and realize I probably will need a case spreader for this process so made a spreading tool from some scrap metal I raided from the local welding shops scrap bin and some threaded rod I had in my workshop.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200607/382778d676944df9a9e8d740aeba0fd2.jpg)

(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200607/7757ab69ae23816d3cf642cc24dd0eb4.jpg)

Pretty happy with how it turned out but the welds aren’t that pretty (I’m not really a welder) so hope it holds up.


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Title: Defender TD5 Rebuild
Post by: grizzlychicken on June 07, 2020, 09:29 PM
Ok followed the guide that John posted to make a set of setup bearings for shimming the diff but unlike the 5min the video mentioned for sanding the inner race it took probably 5 hours of sanding with 80 grit to get them to size! Maybe it’s because I had to trim the sanding wheel down as it didn’t fit inside the bearing race.

Anyway it’s done now!
 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CVbNqvp4Uoc&feature=share (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CVbNqvp4Uoc&feature=share)

Onto the next step of shimming. Going to start with the previous shim sizing and check the tooth pattern. Mine measured in at .046” each side. Just have to figure out if the bearing preload is right as well as the tooth pattern.


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Title: Defender TD5 Rebuild
Post by: grizzlychicken on June 10, 2020, 12:34 PM
Well nothing ever goes as smoothly as you would like.........
I am having a tough time with the new diff center install. As I mentioned I am replacing my old diff center with an Eaton Truetrac LSD. The carrier looks very slick out of the box.
However I went to install it with the shim spacing of the old diff and with the setup bearings I made and I am having significant issues with the trutrac binding on the casing. It is getting hung up on a prominence at the base of the bearing seat.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200610/2bc866320971e320c62917657b02b363.jpg)

 https://youtu.be/ftaf6Svt1nc (https://youtu.be/ftaf6Svt1nc)

As it turns out there at some significant differences between the carriers. The main difference is the clearance from the crownwheel side bearing seat on the diff carrier and the carrier housing. There is about a 1/4” difference between the two:
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200610/9cd717372c15f3e08c6827ed32d53c9b.jpg)

(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200610/b7595b9d18182f967d2e4f343fbfc2a1.jpg)

(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200610/1b246efaed7448244f02812ba7e02e74.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200610/c35af26dcd0600bc81c9764659b4191e.jpg)

So the diff carrier is binding against the small knob on the diff housing.

I thought I might have ordered the wrong carrier but double checked and it is what Ashcroft uses and the numbers match.
https://www.ashcroft-transmissions.co.uk/limited-slip-differentials/salisbury-truetrac.html

I measured the distance between the crown-wheel seat and that side bearing seat and they are similar between the 2 diffs. Overall the truetrac is taller by about .15” which shouldn’t matter. So I can’t shim the diff away from the binding point.

I think my only option is to modify the diff case by filing/ flap wheeling down the prominence on the case to allow for the diff carrier housing clearance.
Has anyone done this or heard of an issue with this in the past? Once I have case clearance I’ll b able to shim it appropriately.


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Title: Re: Defender TD5 Rebuild
Post by: binch on June 10, 2020, 09:24 PM
Lovejugs installed one into Emad's 110 rearend a couple years back
Title: Re: Defender TD5 Rebuild
Post by: grizzlychicken on June 11, 2020, 12:49 AM
Lovejugs installed one into Emad's 110 rearend a couple years back
Ok thanks Bill. I would be interested to hear how that went! I don’t think that little nub has a purpose so think that’s where I’ll start anyway.


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Title: Re: Defender TD5 Rebuild
Post by: Matt H on June 11, 2020, 12:29 PM
Grind it flush. You often find discrepancies in the castings of a differential case. Normally a non issue but does tend to complicate matters when fitting non factory parts such as aftermarket carriers/lockers etc.  As long as you have the correct carrier for for the gearset ratio it’s all good.
Title: Re: Defender TD5 Rebuild
Post by: grizzlychicken on June 11, 2020, 12:42 PM
Grind it flush. You often find discrepancies in the castings of a differential case. Normally a non issue but does tend to complicate matters when fitting non factory parts such as aftermarket carriers/lockers etc.  As long as you have the correct carrier for for the gearset ratio it’s all good.
On my way to do that now thanks Matt!


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Title: Defender TD5 Rebuild
Post by: grizzlychicken on June 11, 2020, 11:55 PM
Success!

Had a great day in the shop working away to some good beats :)

First I taped off the pinion and ground down the nub using a shopvac as air extraction to minimalize metal shards. Worked great to keep everything clean.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200612/f3cabc106101a3a2fcf760b3acdff156.jpg)

Grinding the nub solved all my clearance issues yahoo!

So then went back and decided to measure the amount of case displacement my diff spreader would give. With my diff carrier and bearing assembly sliding in when fully displaced it gives me an idea of the preload on the carrier bearings. I estimate about a .005” clearance to get the center in (using a feeler gauge behind the bearing race before releasing the case spreader) and measured the case deflection at .01” which gives me a preload of about a .005” shim width which is about right.

[youtube] https://youtu.be/KqhuPIANWs4 [youtube]

Happy that I have a good carrier preload went on to measure the crownwheel backlash. The manual says it should be 0.006-0.011”. So mine was initially slightly too much play at 0.012”:
[youtube] https://youtu.be/Y90Nk_n1UGQ [youtube]

So added a shim to the crown-wheel side .001” from the other side and came in on tolerance.
Then with sims all set I installed the new bearings and rechecked the backlash and was spot on at .008” with a good tooth pattern.

[youtube] https://youtu.be/njv_9QbNGZY [YouTube]

(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200612/d500c7f9210cb63679a1a3437ae2a55c.jpg)

All set up and torqued down! I must say don’t underestimate the value of feel. The overall assembly feels smooth and tight and minimal play. It feels right. (Scientific I know!)
Now I can get to reassembling the rest of the axel and into a rolling chassis.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200612/bc1508c77e6f21c4bfab317b2499f2a7.jpg)

Happy with my first diff setup attempt. Next chapter is getting this assembly back together and onto a rolling chassis........ stay tuned!


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Title: Re: Defender TD5 Rebuild
Post by: binch on June 12, 2020, 08:55 PM
Nicely don sir..nicely done!
Title: Defender TD5 Rebuild
Post by: grizzlychicken on June 16, 2020, 10:46 PM
Ok onto getting this rolling chassis installed!
It is interesting finding chassis differences between the new chassis and the original as I roll forward. I mentioned the rear cross member already and on the weekend I started to install the wishbone mounting brackets. The original chassis has raised spacers welded direct to the chassis but the new chassis has much thicker mount points.

(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200617/bd42b4f7f0d57fc80f24131a76880414.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200617/75f94e101fefa847df6a43ff347584f9.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200617/48e178d5a47223410c6b0687cf05423f.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200617/f479031d03601b4ce86c4b06aaaa41dd.jpg)

The other kicker is the spacers on the old chassis are different front back. So short story none of the new fasteners I sourced fit :(
So just bolted it in the end with a single washer between the bracket and the chassis as wasn’t sure if the wishbone assembly could suck up the 1/2” difference in the bracket position.
Think it should work fine as it all lined up with the diff. So now I have a rolling chassis!
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200617/cee110c023cfd007bbef437851224198.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200617/831da275c055602f4325ccded620c51c.jpg)

Without shocks yet but nice to have less bits spread around the garage! Wheels and diffs take up a bunch of room!


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Title: Re: Defender TD5 Rebuild
Post by: binch on June 16, 2020, 10:58 PM
All this brand new looking, better then factory finish is truly a sign of a very sick mind.....VERY well done Shane!!!!!!  EXCELLENT work!!! ;)
Title: Re: Defender TD5 Rebuild
Post by: grizzlychicken on June 16, 2020, 11:14 PM
Ha thanks Bill. My bodywork skills aren’t that good so at least she’ll have a good heart ;)

I forgot to mention the fascinating fastener use on the defender. One minute you are using an M8 metric fastener, then you go to the suspension and figure out the ball joint cross bolts on the wishbone are 1/2”-20...... I suppose they just used what was available at the local hardware store! Nice to have a thread pitch gauge handy...


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Title: Re: Defender TD5 Rebuild
Post by: binch on June 17, 2020, 05:22 AM
They were just trying to keep you on your toes  ::)
Title: Re: Defender TD5 Rebuild
Post by: Matt H on June 17, 2020, 06:18 AM
Your traditional shop tool set for old Land Rovers.

Title: Re: Defender TD5 Rebuild
Post by: Red90 on June 17, 2020, 07:01 AM
In general most fine threaded fasteners are UNF.  Most coarse are metric. Fine threads are used in applications like that where they want a higher clamping load. There are some exceptions, but they should not be too common in a TD5.

So keeping a stock of UNF and metric coarse usually covers your needs. This is a good thing, because finding metric fine locally is not easy.
Title: Re: Defender TD5 Rebuild
Post by: grizzlychicken on June 24, 2020, 12:06 AM
Just researching sheet aluminum to use for the floor and for a few panels. Looks like the floor is mostly 13 gauge and the body panels/skins are 18 gauge.
What aluminum are the masse using for panel repair and replacement? Here is what I have found:
Original Land Rover aluminum was brimabright or later as 5251 aluminum which is what I believe my defender probably used.
http://funrover.com/tips-guides/just-what-exactly-are-land-rover-bodies-made-from/

I connected with YRM metal solutions which I’ll be ordering some material from and they are using 1050 aluminum.

Different vehicle manufacturers use different aluminums and 2 that were mentioned a bunch when I was researching were 5022 and 6022

http://alcoainnovation.ca/fr/pdf/20121027_Aluminum_use_in_Auto_for_release.pdf

https://aluminiuminsider.com/aluminium-alloys-automotive-industry-handy-guide/

https://uacj-automobile.com/types_and_applications.html

Unfortunately trying to source any of these in southern Alberta is almost impossible. The local sheet metal supply could get 1100 but was $1000 per sheet! Due to the aluminum purity.
They could source the 6022 but with a $300 shipping charge but not bad per sheet at around $100.

The local shop has plenty of 5052 sheet aluminum which is pretty common but not common for automotive panels. He also I recommended 6061 which has better strength and still good formability about the same price.

What have the masses used? I was thinking the 6022 would be ideal but at a premium price with the shipping and it is a month out. My second choice, but likely the logical choice would probably be the 6061. The cheapest alternative may just be fine with the 5052.


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Title: Re: Defender TD5 Rebuild
Post by: ugly_90 on June 24, 2020, 12:34 AM
I wouldn't be spending much money on new metal if I didn't have to. I'm usually more of a net seller/trader than a buyer lately. The last time I bought a few feet of new steel or aluminum myself, it was ridiculous, a complete highway robbery. The last time I bought some steel at work on a job was an 8 foot piece of rusty schedule 40 pipe for $300 in BC!

A scrapyard will be much more accommodating in pricing for you. Better still if you know of a good metal bin before it hits the yard. There's a few spots around that do aluminum welding, and others that do aluminum signs, especially large highway signs, which you should find to be quite thick. If the lettering was wrong or phone number changed on the sign, its discarded and waiting for you..

The two front floor plates should be forgiving if you use less of a gauge, just as long as it doesn't bend under your heel. For the aluminum body, it has been found available as scrap, one of the fellows here has salvaged body aluminum from an old scrapped holiday trailer, and found the thickness to be the same.

I think the saying goes in gold mining that " gold is where you find it ", perhaps meaning it's easy to find more gold near past gold claims. The same with recycling scrap material.
Title: Re: Defender TD5 Rebuild
Post by: binch on June 24, 2020, 04:18 PM
Why not just buy the panels pre-made and primer coated.    Most of the panels for the (real) defender are still readily available.    YRM is a good little cottage company not too far from Tow Law, on the back side of a small farm.    And we can get stuff from them shipped with our orders. ;)
Title: Re: Defender TD5 Rebuild
Post by: mike.heathcote on June 25, 2020, 09:51 AM
You may want to check with Ivor Wilde, out in Sundre - I believe he's in the phone book. 

A couple years ago I got some front wings off him for Dad's 110.  The panels were new, unprimed - he might still have a couple other panels about, too. 
Title: Re: Defender TD5 Rebuild
Post by: ugly_90 on June 25, 2020, 10:26 AM
I wonder if i'm missing something in the thread here. It seemed like the question was on sources of alloy of locally obtained aluminum plate. Areas like the two floor plates, the two flat rear ends of the defender tub, and other areas are easily replaced with a bit of metalwork and scrap material if one is handy, at little to no cost if one is frugal.

The complex bends in a side fender or wing are better to be replaced with new or used. Door skins are affordable as aftermarket as well. Any of these Britpart or YRM specific parts could likely await a seacan order to keep costs down too.
Title: Defender TD5 Rebuild
Post by: grizzlychicken on June 25, 2020, 11:11 AM
So yes I was talking mostly about the rear floor and the rear wheel wells which are both around 13 gauge. The wheel wells and the piece that connects the rear 2nd row seating to the rear floor are pretty straight forward 90 degree bends.

My rear quarry panel skin is in rough shape so debating on whether to replace that and as you say you can get panels prefabed from the uk but it is not super cheap. The best pricing I found was from lrparts.net and just for the 2 rear skins with shipping it is £500 so $1000 and there will be duty on top of that.
So the material cost for both rear skins in 18 gauge if I bought the 6061 and formed them myself would be $100 but like you say there is one complex radius bend. 

Or I live with the current panel and bodywork and bondo it which is possible.

The front 1/4 panel I need I would just replace with a premade unit as the curves are more complex and the panel is actually relatively cheap at £250 delivered so $500.

Otherwise I’m not sure of a source of second hand panels in Alberta. Anyone have spares?
Mike I’ll try ivor. Is he part of the club?


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Title: Re: Defender TD5 Rebuild
Post by: grizzlychicken on June 30, 2020, 07:59 PM
Well time for an update on this rainy Tuesday!  I have been working away slowly and moved onto the engine.

The TD5 I have was pretty oil and dirty. There have been multiple oil leaks in its life. So first job was to clean things up.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200701/6e7d971641d1a67c5ee61a30806d722c.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200701/987cfb0bd754da62a78756442f4d945a.jpg)

If you can’t take the engine to the parts washer, bring the parts washer to the engine!

https://youtu.be/6IE4t0Estd4

Degreased and then after attacking it with a brass wheel.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200701/f14bfe4b3e8cd64d66becbd034b4cead.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200701/6ab7e821ae2e2d368de526a3c0b81ca3.jpg)

Then painted up the block.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200701/89348e4e143189b54ae077eb1bc83505.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200701/bc3ff882148896d22c5afc75882edb1f.jpg)

And cleans up nicely!
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200701/54329b39722ea0512bb8d1a6eb228f9c.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200701/467a95f31619814958e18e8733414df5.jpg)

Now there was a leak in the flywheel side seal so replaced that but the sump seal didn’t appear great and it looked like some of the leak was coming from there so decided to replace that. Easy way was to flip the engine over. Love this engine stand!
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200701/256cc977df085e70079eacc5112d5227.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200701/2d773a4ec7e73ad4eb5b7252f4615d2d.jpg)

Cleaned up the block face and the sump face with some scotch brite pads.
Then inspected the gasket and as suspected it was compressed and had multiple cracks in it:
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200701/3dd48d266b71455a569823b6d4c47301.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200701/c13eceddf1715792a91df35005ea34de.jpg)


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Title: Re: Defender TD5 Rebuild
Post by: grizzlychicken on June 30, 2020, 08:04 PM
Ok then went and flipped the engine upright again and pulled off the rocker cover. The gasket again was a mess and had been filled with goop probably to stop the oil seepage.
After a bunch of scraping and scotchbrite/brass brush it turned out great and installed a new rocker cover gasket
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200701/f315c14b2916b853d77bfc46020b2c9c.jpg)
 
I think that should solve most of the oil seepage issues :)


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Title: Defender TD5 Rebuild
Post by: grizzlychicken on June 30, 2020, 08:45 PM
So part of my engine refreshing was to do a idea performance upgrades. So I ordered A few cool bits from ali sport.
First I am upgrading the exhaust manifold. Most off you all know that the td5 manifold wasn’t the best design. The webs between each exhaust port on the manifold tend to retain heat and are prone to warpage and doesn’t clear exhaust gasses very well.
Here is a side by side of both manifolds:
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200701/6d508eb55376953777f407e610822b83.jpg)

The original engine studs are also quite short and can break off with heat. The new manifold comes with longer stud an spacers to absorb some of the heat expansion of the manifold.
 Th was (https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200701/06c56798560475327148d45f6873a0ca.jpg)

So I decided to get the manifold ceramic coated which also is supposed to help with directing heat better through the turbo and exhaust. It also looks slick and will help stop it rusting.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200701/78cad0284f79418aadb0eb215451df98.jpg)

And yes as you can see I decided to go with a variable vein turbo from alisport/turbo technik. As you can see I decided to pull it apart and have the snail part ceramic coated too. Again for both directing heat and for corrosion and looks :)

(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200701/584c7756f9cd71018758c88e27de44ee.jpg)
 (https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200701/aec85f5431bbe4961ad631dba5cb882b.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200701/05e213ad555b9eaa05e3845a870eacf4.jpg)

It is pretty cool to see how the variable rate turbo engineering works:

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https://youtu.be/ikUi_Es4Clw
Title: Re: Defender TD5 Rebuild
Post by: Red90 on June 30, 2020, 09:07 PM
You are officially going completely overboard.   ;D
Title: Re: Defender TD5 Rebuild
Post by: grizzlychicken on June 30, 2020, 09:11 PM
You are officially going completely overboard.   ;D
Ha yup I feel like man overboard during most of this project. Learning lots and fell like I’m bumbling about most of the time :) 80% of the time is looking for that bolt I know I put somewhere safe!


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Title: Re: Defender TD5 Rebuild
Post by: Matt H on July 01, 2020, 02:24 PM
Nice. I like the exhaust manifold & turbo upgrades.
Title: Re: Defender TD5 Rebuild
Post by: binch on July 01, 2020, 11:44 PM
yup, a complete mad man ;D    But I'm loving this detailed write up of yours.  Brilliant!!!!!

3 thumbs up!   
Title: Re: Defender TD5 Rebuild
Post by: grizzlychicken on July 02, 2020, 02:13 AM
Ha thanks Bill. We are getting there!

Ok feels like big progress when you put the drivetrain together. Engine is in!
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200702/3f8de876483bacf49d0df8bd212b3860.jpg)

Then installed the new flywheel and clutch assembly:
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200702/8895c666b89d5dbfcaed82f198096cf3.jpg)

Changed out the thrust bearing to the heavy duty version.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200702/30c4b30fd6afb9689a6991800747dc35.jpg)

Put the transmission/ transfer case assembly together for install
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200702/fb297a242e88885d191dfeaac3538fe3.jpg)

And end result is satisfying!
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200702/0cc3fb97ff91df5fa8d5f20c53a938a0.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200702/5d1e0baff70c6aa0e6982835179db2b7.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200702/ee1c38265e7732168d5b7829f6aae535.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200702/0578b577d952ce9b9facd504dbf0dc42.jpg)

Now to install all the fixings. Electrical, fuel lines and tank, and bulkhead next. Trying to approach it in systems. Have to figure out where all these little brackets and clips go and which way all the bits wrap around one another.
Still a lot of work to do. Let me know if anyone is bored and wants to come swing a wrench in Canmore in a covid free way ;)


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Title: Re: Defender TD5 Rebuild
Post by: binch on July 02, 2020, 05:33 AM
Oh, now that's just looking to good to take it out of the garage again.   That first pine stripe is going to hurt ROFL

Looking very good!!!!
Title: Re: Defender TD5 Rebuild
Post by: grizzlychicken on July 02, 2020, 09:25 AM
Ok my mechanic friends! So I am looking back through the manual (as well as forward!) and I have a question about the sump gasket install. When I installed mine it seems to seal up nicely with no gaps etc. when looking at the manual it says to put a couple of beads of silicon in a few places.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200702/7c29ce9a694485c55a10912d903d55ce.jpg)
How important are the silicon beads to prevent oil seepage? I think I have a pretty good seal but now is the time if I want to add that extra layer. I’m pretty sure I can do I with the trans in place. Thoughts?


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Title: Re: Defender TD5 Rebuild
Post by: DBrands on July 02, 2020, 09:37 AM
Ok my mechanic friends! So I am looking back through the manual (as well as forward!) and I have a question about the sump gasket install. When I installed mine it seems to seal up nicely with no gaps etc. when looking at the manual it says to put a couple of beads of silicon in a few places.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200702/7c29ce9a694485c55a10912d903d55ce.jpg)
How important are the silicon beads to prevent oil seepage? I think I have a pretty good seal but now is the time if I want to add that extra layer. I’m pretty sure I can do I with the trans in place. Thoughts?

I have very little experience with a TD5, but both of those locations appear to be where the oil pan gasket contacts another gasket, correct? That has the potential to be a leak point if the intersecting seal "shrinks" away from the oil pan gasket. If you didn't change either of those gaskets the likelihood of a gap occurring is much lower (as long as there wasn't a gap apparent when you replaced the pan gasket). Might be worthwhile to do it as a precaution seeing how much work you've been doing to re-fresh...

Check the UK forums to see how often people talk about it... might give you an idea of how likely it is to leak.
Title: Re: Defender TD5 Rebuild
Post by: Matt H on July 02, 2020, 09:54 AM
100% you need to add the sealer in the locations shown. Very common among all manufacturers. You don’t need much, but you do need it. 
Title: Re: Defender TD5 Rebuild
Post by: grizzlychicken on July 02, 2020, 01:57 PM
100% you need to add the sealer in the locations shown. Very common among all manufacturers. You don’t need much, but you do need it.
Awesome thanks Matt. Pretty much what I thought. Just when you think your moving ahead and it looks pretty you tear it apart again :)
Looks like it is just applied to the engine block side of the gasket on the rear oilseal and the block face near the front. It doesn’t look like they are recommending to do the sump side between the gasket and the sump.

Well off to work again!


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Title: Re: Defender TD5 Rebuild
Post by: grizzlychicken on July 03, 2020, 10:34 AM
Ok so not quite as easy to remove the sump while installed on the chassis but worked ok. I can see now why you need the silicon with the front cover join and the join on the rear crank oil seal.

Biggest concern was to line up the locating holes on the crank seal with the sump gasket. Think I hit it well though as it is sitting right and the bolt pressure is all good :)

Now  I have the drivetrain installed!


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Title: Re: Defender TD5 Rebuild
Post by: grizzlychicken on July 03, 2020, 01:44 PM
Now lookin at planning the rest of the rebuild and I am planning to do that in systems.
My thoughts in order were:
-Exhaust system including mounts and gaskets
-break system- lines and abs sensors(part 2 will be break controller after bulkhead install)
-fuel system - tank, filter, fuel lines and associated clips
-electrical looms - at least the frame rail loom at this point
-then bulkhead paint and install

Think that is a good way to tackle it. Once the bulkhead is in there is quite a bit of electrical to tackle which I think I should do first.

Would you completely paint and clear coat the bulkhead before installing it or would you save the final coats to do in situ?

Once I have the bulkhead, the b/c post and frame rail and then seat box installed I think I can button most of the systems up before dong the interior.

Oh still a bunch of work ahead.....


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Title: Re: Defender TD5 Rebuild
Post by: Matt H on July 04, 2020, 09:50 AM
For myself I’d do as much as could to the bulkhead while it’s off the chassis. That would include as much of  the wiring and dash etc as possible. The reason being ease of access. Once mounted you need to constantly step over the chassis rails and reach behind/around the Engine & gearbox etc.
It will make for a heavy piece of bodywork to lift into place but with an engine picker it’s no problem.


I can be done either way but I like to make things as easy as I can.
Title: Re: Defender TD5 Rebuild
Post by: ugly_90 on July 04, 2020, 10:57 AM
There may be photo or video footage of defender production in factory. They had likely worked out the most efficient assembly and seemed to work with completed modules.

As far as painting and clearcoating the bulkhead, there is probably half of it that can be seen without lifting the hood or crawling under once the vehicle is complete. I used truck bed coating for the hidden parts before assembly, but there's probably a range of coatings that would work, particularly on galvanized.

it's usually cheaper to paint individual parts and assemble, rather than a big paint job in the end. Often the less work you farm out the better on small parts. The money spent on a compressor and cabinet blaster evaporates quite quickly when spent on outside labour.
Title: Re: Defender TD5 Rebuild
Post by: binch on July 04, 2020, 08:22 PM
Galvanise it and paint it off the truck, along with the battery box.  Matt has a great idea of building the bulk head up before installing it...just for access that sounds like a great idea.

Great job so far!!!
Title: Defender TD5 Rebuild
Post by: grizzlychicken on July 04, 2020, 08:29 PM
Good advice again guys! After thinking about it the bulkhead is really the pivotal piece that everything  hangs on or attaches too so makes sense to get that going and Matt I like your idea about getting most things installed. I imagine you mean brakes clutch reservoir, electrical
and dash components/ heater etc.
So think painting it makes sense before that.

Started on the bulkhead today. Lots of work on cleaning up the galv and rethreading and tapping holes and of course scotchbrighting the surface to give the paint a surface to stick too. Still have to seal it too with pantable caulking. Will follow that caulking guide you can finds online.

Here is my bulkhead working setup:
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200705/321bc5dc66a040eea7870f5d5f61bb05.jpg)

Lots more hours to go on this one.


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Title: Defender TD5 Rebuild
Post by: grizzlychicken on July 04, 2020, 10:14 PM
Here is the link to the water ingress doc:
http://www.landroverweb.com/Pdf-files/Manuals/Land_Rover_Defender_Water_Ingress_Manual.pdf


Oh one issue with the galv is that it filled in the vent screen holes in places so I either replace it or perhaps wire brush it, but I think that the galv will be too strong for just a wire brush, or drill the individual holes maybe.........


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Title: Re: Defender TD5 Rebuild
Post by: grizzlychicken on July 05, 2020, 09:16 AM
Ok not pretty but sealed!

(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200705/d42ea9acbb4cd067d6ae4667696bc520.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200705/e674e33e3e0cb37de07b08bf5de83cf2.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200705/0cb3c947dae45d616792ee06d4fa44de.jpg)

This stuff is super sticky! Gloves for sure!
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200705/8f7fc0f5f944b5e33af9e48b6c832fe0.jpg)

Think I hit all the seams. What seams do you guys normally have issues with?


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Title: Re: Defender TD5 Rebuild
Post by: binch on July 05, 2020, 05:38 PM
I would be easier to ask me which ones don't leak on mine ahhahahhahahahha ;D
Title: Re: Defender TD5 Rebuild
Post by: grizzlychicken on July 07, 2020, 11:41 PM
Epoxy primer done for the bulkhead. Will sand with 320 then body fill if needed. I imagine most don’t fill any of the engine bay or foot wells as you can’t see them. I plan to leave them a la natural! I will high build fill prime and sand the whole thing I think. Then color and clear it. Plan to color and clear the whole bulkhead before I install it dressed.

(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200708/d106519ff0a3e0fe0641a099c38a0bdc.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200708/ed9856e271b595007f2ad82729e82a19.jpg)


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Title: Defender TD5 Rebuild
Post by: grizzlychicken on July 13, 2020, 12:21 AM
Still working away on the bulkhead and got it fill primed today. Planning to sand in the morning and shoot color and clear on Tuesday.

In the mean time my webasto coolant heater wasn’t working properly. I had taken it to the webasto dealer in Calgary and they tested it and told me to get a new one. The issue was it was dropping to below 8v in start up. To me that was a short somewhere that was pulling the voltage down and causing a low voltage error. Webastos go into error shut down if the supply voltage drops too low, I think below 9v. The dealer recommended a new brain so I did that and had the same error.

So I checked the resistance in the glow plug and it read pretty much an open circuit. Time for some webasto open heart surgery!

Here is my bench testing setup
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200713/0648db3e94274812f64153f303ca9215.jpg)

A few red flags. I have the webasto testing software and was getting the same error code the dealer got. There was an obvious voltage drop and the wires got super hot when the glow plug operation started.

So pulled the guts out and decided to replace the burner unit which includes the glow plug. It gets pretty crusty and the ceramic part of the plug gets stuck so hard to remove(for me anyhow)

Tested the circulation pump and the fuel pump and they were both intermittently functioning too, so they will need replacing.

So new burner went in
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200713/f93a380defb7a0ffb51f354ff7c92da0.jpg)

And new circulation pump and got new plastic as the old plastic was faded. Then polished the case up and turned out pretty good!
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200713/6ab3396f130b9e4d161e572593d60f45.jpg)

(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200713/24e045408924acc9beb9f8f1a89ad2be.jpg)

Old bits:

(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200713/9ccb5176686fce2adc44d44abc5a2d4b.jpg)

Now ready for install:
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200713/308a3faa02ce025755b1d5b39c93a2e9.jpg)

Pretty reasonable too. I ordered the replacement bits on eBay for around $200. A new unit is over $1000.
This should help keep the cab warmer!


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Title: Re: Defender TD5 Rebuild
Post by: binch on July 13, 2020, 08:40 PM
I didn't see anything about testing it after the new pump and burner....  Did everything test out good after the transplants?
Title: Re: Defender TD5 Rebuild
Post by: grizzlychicken on July 14, 2020, 05:22 PM
I didn't see anything about testing it after the new pump and burner....  Did everything test out good after the transplants?
It’s sitting on my work bench waiting for some love :) plan to do it in the next few days.

In the mean time I finished priming, shooting the color and clear and I’m pretty happy how it turned out. Especially since painting isn’t really my forte!

After the epoxy primer I shot on a high build primer then wet sanded it with 600grit. This was super messy. I shot the high build everywhere and in hindsight should have just down the visible panels as it creates way more work. Think moving forward the interior/covered panels will get epoxy primer, color and clear and the exterior will get the high build and wet sand.

Here is after the wet sand:

(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200714/3846494c16a85e6d247f5454acd3e51a.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200714/a286ff1a6aaa5df8a75f5517f79332a6.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200714/b04aafe2fd0ea518a358b4cd2810acc0.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200714/2b0eb4f4fe6bf7aaaa24dba940bb2928.jpg)

And......wait for it...... here is after color and clear:

(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200714/024b456c0f56c845fe6e00b3d9707fa6.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200714/8cb89b78f9560db3c8d191821a20067a.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200714/cc52418643b0e38bd720685b229590b5.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200714/ca7e2abea52cc544b3d578991cc3478b.jpg)

Really happy with my blue beastie! Will have black accents when it’s all done. There is a bit of orange peeling here and there but that should sorted by a good cut and polish at the end :)

Now onto building up the bulkhead once the paint dries!


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Title: Defender TD5 Rebuild
Post by: grizzlychicken on August 24, 2020, 01:45 AM
Got my sheet metal order today. The rear tub floor and wheel wells use 14 gauge aluminum. Since I am planning on replacing these bits I decided to use 12 gauge for some added strength.

Decided on 6061. Marked it all up, cut it then got the shop to bend the 90’s
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200824/101df5a16ae5c44b29c3be782d418e2a.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200824/cf5f1aebef039dd4ff331fd8f9082557.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200824/16f60b99084445f12f5bf0bb6b165e77.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200824/a977200c040e4d170f973dd1804d45cb.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200824/eb99c928946d917c9d7a1a80c121f710.jpg)

Also got some bits from YRM
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200824/1366007de2f58db1549b2da02569600f.jpg)

Rebuilding the seat box ends and battery box. Here is the old battery box next to the YRM kit. Note the better shape of the floor so duel batteries fit better. The old box is heavy too as is made of steel. Only part of the seat box that is steel I believe.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200824/db1f25990980142d0633064db2b066eb.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200824/14dc75c10d7fc6ca511d0525698b5c42.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200824/57bed625e2d17f1003f649dedf97c723.jpg)


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Title: Re: Defender TD5 Rebuild
Post by: Matt H on August 24, 2020, 02:49 PM
This is going to be a regular Ship of Theseus!

Nice to see the rebuilding is continuing.
Title: Re: Defender TD5 Rebuild
Post by: grizzlychicken on August 24, 2020, 03:32 PM
This is going to be a regular Ship of Theseus!

Nice to see the rebuilding is continuing.
Ha true. The heart of the ship is still original. Drivetrain/diffs etc but certainly has had some nip and tucking done  and some open heart surgery ;)

It seems that it is a never ending process.... every day it is “ well while I’m here and it’s apart it I may as well....”


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Title: Re: Defender TD5 Rebuild
Post by: Matt H on August 24, 2020, 06:27 PM
Lol. I have a 1966 Buick skylark convertible in the back of the shed that suffered the exact same “well seeing as it’s apart now would be a good time to just...” fate. The only difference being you are actually doing an amazing job putting yours back together while my poor old Buick has been sitting in bits for over 16 years.
Title: Re: Defender TD5 Rebuild
Post by: grizzlychicken on August 24, 2020, 07:47 PM
Thanks Matt,
Worked on the engine bay today and it looks nice and shiny! Started to reconnect the hoses and run the wiring loom. Just have to figure out how everything was routed. I took pictures of the engine bay but with the wings on so figuring out how it goes together on the fly.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200825/99de57fb7e35b4d4377ac126dff0b4cd.jpg)
The allisport intercooler looks sharp. Too bad it is going to get buried :(


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Title: Re: Defender TD5 Rebuild
Post by: binch on August 24, 2020, 09:09 PM
Oh it's so nice and shiny now ;)
Title: Defender TD5 Rebuild
Post by: grizzlychicken on August 26, 2020, 12:13 AM
Thanks bill,
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200826/71f50d50f7d37d07190a2d13bebd115d.jpg)
Made some shims for the bulkhead today. Trying to square it up. Without shims it had a bit of a lean:
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200826/ab07647d9e1a01a68b474bd6070922e2.jpg)

So used some ratchet straps to help place the shims and came upto pretty close to 0 degrees
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200826/7b9301ed7fdfceb41f06c7d77546e029.jpg)
Put some plastic shims between the steel and aluminum to prevent galvanic reaction. Made out of an old yogurt container :)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200826/2a1c08ff2c2d774fc95e70b90cc2c924.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200826/701826096631f1496da169e2da9edd56.jpg)

The bulkhead is all square now so placed the Pilar assembly in and hand tightened to see what the door gap measurements were from the b Pilar to the bulkhead and was within 1/4 “ without any adjusting of positioning so should be able to get it right on. I was worried after the bulkhead galv that it may be out of square but seems pretty good.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200826/39fde089e8e9838e81afd53a51b83b15.jpg)

Dry fit the floor and rear quarters and realize I need to do some tweaking there.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200826/53fae357ad21b6c265ec41729e3f590a.jpg)

Need to get all my clips and cables set then onto putting the bodywork together. Think I will paint the Pilar assemblies, window frame, rear floor, rear 1/4 panels and seat box off the vehicle and assemble after paint........ and the work continues into another day


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Title: Re: Defender TD5 Rebuild
Post by: grizzlychicken on August 26, 2020, 09:30 AM
Anyone else think they catalog and organize their fasteners and go to put that part back on your truck and that well organized fastener is nowhere to be found? You put it in that spot you think you will remember but remembering never happens! Trying to organize well with labeling bags etc but wow it’s tricky to find some of the bits you put away for safe keeping!


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Title: Re: Defender TD5 Rebuild
Post by: ugly_90 on August 26, 2020, 01:36 PM
I use a bolt bin with new hardware for most of the reassembly whenever possible. When the plating is gone for a smaller standard metric bolt or nut, it's not worth the value of keeping it. Bags of 100 nuts are cheap at Edmonton Nut and Bolt and Fastenal. Various bolts, washers in smaller QTY can be bought from Gregg's as well, stainless too where appropriate.

The LR specific hardware should be bagged and labelled during disassembly for reuse where appropriate.
Title: Re: Defender TD5 Rebuild
Post by: grizzlychicken on August 27, 2020, 11:19 PM
I use a bolt bin with new hardware for most of the reassembly whenever possible. When the plating is gone for a smaller standard metric bolt or nut, it's not worth the value of keeping it. Bags of 100 nuts are cheap at Edmonton Nut and Bolt and Fastenal. Various bolts, washers in smaller QTY can be bought from Gregg's as well, stainless too where appropriate.

The LR specific hardware should be bagged and labelled during disassembly for reuse where appropriate.
Well I did bag the bolts but still have a big mess :) and yes bought a bunch of fasteners from fastenal and from YRM too. Mostly A4-80 or zinc for the higher tensile bolts


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Title: Re: Defender TD5 Rebuild
Post by: grizzlychicken on August 27, 2020, 11:25 PM
Ok I have a question for the collective brain. Just installing the new battery box on the seat box. How well should it be sealed? I have read that you don’t want it super air right due to some battery gassing but also read that since the batteries are sealed it doesn’t realy matter as they don’t produce enough gasses to make a difference. I was going to seal it up pretty good to stop any external exhaust gasses etc from entering the cab.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200828/085fa069d3ddffa2e48d96c2adf8de6a.jpg)

Also would you install a diesel parking heater in the battery box........ not sure how much heat the actual parking heater produces. I have an Airtronic D2 that I’m going to install somewhere :(


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Title: Defender TD5 Rebuild
Post by: grizzlychicken on September 16, 2020, 12:55 AM
Ok so have been sanding..... and sanding...... and well you get the drift ;)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200916/98f0bed1e103f67403a29eed6b003a1e.jpg)

Before:


(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200916/95b4a8cb6d1812b1f6d746536deb294a.jpg)

(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200916/0884fb972128802c7317da61bd12d8e6.jpg)After
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200916/cec34568fd096f5be782b72fa5892017.jpg)

And I’m surprised the new panels are not plug and play. The mating surfaces needed significant bending and there is a significant panel gap that needs hammer and dolly work
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200916/b2a12499049c22da92f737564d400384.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200916/adf639b26a410b8328f3f87fabc78ae2.jpg)


Here is my grill surround before sanding:
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200916/9b69df258523049fe5a19aa2988b8116.jpg)
And after:
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200916/9d1610b68f89113436a297ccdb6760df.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200916/f593ecb952eb786c1cf6e43cfbe2da5f.jpg)
Think the surround will get painted the car color and I have a new black grill that should look ok :) the above grill will remain raw aluminum.

And after all this is done your friends won’t even realize the work that goes into the underbelly of the rover. Suspension, trans, engine powder coating etc. it will be judged by bodywork, color and accessories.  I better not screw up the paint job too badly ;)


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Title: Re: Defender TD5 Rebuild
Post by: binch on September 16, 2020, 10:44 PM
WOW....nearly a brand new truck in the end.    Great Job!!
Title: Re: Defender TD5 Rebuild
Post by: 88Hillman on September 29, 2020, 05:13 AM
In August you shimmed the firewall to make it sit plumb.  How did you level the frame before adjusting the firewall?
Title: Re: Defender TD5 Rebuild
Post by: camo388 on September 29, 2020, 01:02 PM
Anyone else think they catalog and organize their fasteners and go to put that part back on your truck and that well organized fastener is nowhere to be found? You put it in that spot you think you will remember but remembering never happens! Trying to organize well with labeling bags etc but wow it’s tricky to find some of the bits you put away for safe keeping!
I'm glad I'm not the only one that put parts away for safe keeping and not remember where safe keeping is.


Very nice job so far. 
When you get finished with your project do you want to come over and do mine?  I might have found all the parts I put away for safe keeping by then.  LOL
Title: Defender TD5 Rebuild
Post by: grizzlychicken on September 29, 2020, 01:50 PM
In August you shimmed the firewall to make it sit plumb.  How did you level the frame before adjusting the firewall?
I put the level on the frame rail then just used a jack to level the frame. Think I put the frame on a jack stand at one end. It was pretty close anyway. I leveled both rails.
Also had the sill rail handy to check square off. This is adjustable too so mostly used my level and a level frame but was good to see how the sill rail and bulkhead are sitting in relation to each other. My doors sent on yet so we will see how it works! I imagine I’m still going to have to shim the sill rail too....


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Title: Re: Defender TD5 Rebuild
Post by: grizzlychicken on September 29, 2020, 01:52 PM
Anyone else think they catalog and organize their fasteners and go to put that part back on your truck and that well organized fastener is nowhere to be found? You put it in that spot you think you will remember but remembering never happens! Trying to organize well with labeling bags etc but wow it’s tricky to find some of the bits you put away for safe keeping!
I'm glad I'm not the only one that put parts away for safe keeping and not remember where safe keeping is.


Very nice job so far. 
When you get finished with your project do you want to come over and do mine?  I might have found all the parts I put away for safe keeping by then.  LOL
Thanks! Sure I’ll get right in yours! Mine seems to be taking an eternity!
I’m sure my bits will show up at the end :) after replacement.......


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Title: Re: Defender TD5 Rebuild
Post by: grizzlychicken on October 18, 2020, 11:37 PM
Have been busy fencing the yard lately so not much action on the rebuild until the snow!
Started to install the rear antiroll bar that has a disconnect to allow 4x4 mode. Exited to see how this puppy works!
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201019/01b1662c926786dc44587be78675a1c1.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201019/31fcb79c6ef2b2a1dba57df908c34255.jpg)


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Title: Re: Defender TD5 Rebuild
Post by: binch on October 19, 2020, 05:32 AM
X engineering and an AVM hub.....clever idea!! ;)
Title: Re: Defender TD5 Rebuild
Post by: Red90 on October 19, 2020, 07:38 AM
X engineering and an AVM hub.....clever idea!! ;)

Hopefully they have upgraded the design.  A lot of people have had failures of the left side arm.  The other issue that people see is the freewheeling hub has backlash in the splines and it is enough that you get a fair bit of body roll before it does anything.  Let us know what you think.
Title: Re: Defender TD5 Rebuild
Post by: grizzlychicken on October 21, 2020, 09:25 PM
Ok thanks for the heads up! I’ll let you know what I thing when I get this bad boy done!

Just working on the rear 1/4 fabrication today:
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201022/4e982eb5033d5d2dfa2fb28efb58fe15.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201022/25c39df72d752e5b22a15baafa99ead0.jpg)

The wheel well panel I made is not quite 90 so will need some tweaking. Otherwise looks not bad!
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201022/134aaf33e067c81920b6a531600fd23b.jpg)


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Title: Re: Defender TD5 Rebuild
Post by: grizzlychicken on October 28, 2020, 07:38 PM
Ok my defender anatomy experts. I feel a little embarrassed to ask but I really can’t figure out where this corner strengthening piece goes.... door latch striker? Hinge side? Both? I have 2 here.....
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201029/c2ff6baa69156124290f7b5c03b308fb.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201029/5bead791b59937bf47eacd0bcd93327d.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201029/248fd3c79d66eff20328f0df4050950b.jpg)


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Title: Re: Defender TD5 Rebuild
Post by: binch on October 28, 2020, 09:48 PM
LOL....I don't recognise it either  ???
Title: Re: Defender TD5 Rebuild
Post by: grizzlychicken on October 28, 2020, 10:09 PM
Ok thanks bill. I think these came with my YRM order that came in the seacan. Here is the link:

https://yrmit.co.uk/product/lr-defender-hdg-rear-tub-cornerdoor-latch-stiffener/

Just can’t figure out how to use them! Maybe I’ll call YRM and ask.....


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Title: Re: Defender TD5 Rebuild
Post by: binch on October 29, 2020, 11:23 PM
Tell us what you learn please ;)
Title: Re: Defender TD5 Rebuild
Post by: grizzlychicken on November 02, 2020, 10:53 PM
Tell us what you learn please ;)
So these brackets fit on either side of the safari door to reinforce either the strike plate or the middle hinge. The brackets are generic and fit left or right and have pre drilled river holes that line up with the exterior strength bracket.
Here is a photo of an original slightly corroded bracket installed that Ronnie from YRM sent me.
Think it will be good to stop the door shudder that can happen when it get closed firmly.
My td5 did not have these installed when I got it.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201103/2da32eff9aa1d881ed648ae735cda749.jpg)


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Title: Re: Defender TD5 Rebuild
Post by: grizzlychicken on November 02, 2020, 11:07 PM
Progress on my rear quarter. Got one completed and pretty happy with how the fabricated parts worked out!
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201103/6983165a76b3e648a3f361328af82e5f.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201103/13364e7d95458abb2b168958e60ca22e.jpg)

The right quarter is mostly together although there were some rivet holes that weren’t going to line up on the rear panel that the lights mount to so I tried to fill them with aluminum brazing rod but unfortunately the heat from the propane torch warped the panel (I thought it would) and the aluminum is so thin that it opened up one of the holes more.....sigh.
I obviously don’t have great aluminum welding skills!
At $50 it is worth just getting a new rear panel section.


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Title: Re: Defender TD5 Rebuild
Post by: grizzlychicken on November 03, 2020, 08:53 PM
Here is the panel I screwed up :)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201104/ab243933bc93482672509b5fe7397c01.jpg)

I test fitted everything and have some adjusting to do but happy with the progress on the left side:
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201104/68812a66310c7e09ca5e10b5aac4c85d.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201104/6a949f0d728eaa31ab053f06ffae0029.jpg)

(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201104/98b1445fb2113ce57211877ee8cf9ec9.jpg)

Just need to wait for the right rear panel to come in so it can be fitted.


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Title: Re: Defender TD5 Rebuild
Post by: grizzlychicken on November 05, 2020, 01:21 PM
My left rear quarter is looking a lot like a porcupine
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201105/697b0b3a26e155a81aac0b36a36aa3b5.jpg)


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Title: Re: Defender TD5 Rebuild
Post by: binch on November 05, 2020, 11:21 PM
very nice work.....keep it up! ;)
Title: Re: Defender TD5 Rebuild
Post by: grizzlychicken on November 07, 2020, 11:45 AM
Thanks Bill.
So I’m rebuilding the rear quarter as you can see. I purchased the exterior panel and the rear panel and measured the wheel well part and had it bent up. It was pretty straight forward as all the angles are 90 degrees. The tricky part to bend was the front angled section of the wheel well. I had to have this made 3 times to get it just right!
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201107/fb6aea8ba0ca2c4e0163ef6727bd081f.jpg)

I am riveting it all. Originally the wheel well piece was spot welded to the outer panel but for my skills rivers work great and they are very strong too!
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201107/7a270485e10ff172e85e7a5d403c8b12.jpg)

There are various reinforcement pieces within the wheel well. The first consists of 2 brackets, one is a 90/90 bend “s” piece and the other is a 45 “L” piece. Again originally spot welded but I used rivets.

(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201107/99ac4f452238f63267f6c8bd35b5e6a3.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201107/6963993632d53d7c91710682c963d82b.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201107/fa35a909bd06a05d7fd8266388d6bab3.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201107/7a813c1ceefa1e3add4847531df5b3d8.jpg)
 It’s amazing how floppy the individual pieces are but how solid it gets when it’s all riveted together!
There are also 4 reinforcement brackets I will rivet in that line up with the under floor supports to make the whole rear end rigid.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201107/31104735d84a6670935224bf0d811499.jpg)

I held it all together originally with a few rivets and then pre drilled all the rivet holes, then pulled it all apart to seal all the joints with sealant to make it water tight and the riveted it all together to make the completed piece. I then flipped it upside down and ran another bead of sealant around the edge of the panels. All in all I’m happy but takes a bit of time to do it right!
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201107/6b9072d80524e62b977273ffef7c5cc5.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201107/5fc06a218f674aca4519d6827e9ea771.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201107/6e7b851c74b263728cacb2ea6dbc5832.jpg)


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Title: Re: Defender TD5 Rebuild
Post by: grizzlychicken on November 07, 2020, 02:11 PM
Might not look different but all chalking done and rivets in so think this is complete!
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201107/67544c6ce0023d4bade187fb151e1d61.jpg)

(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201107/366399e13bbca33b0fd17c8be9dbd6cf.jpg)

Planning to powder coat the metal top caps black so in the end may have some aluminum rivets that will stay aluminum color. The rest gets color!
Now for the other side after I get my extra bits!


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Title: Re: Defender TD5 Rebuild
Post by: binch on November 07, 2020, 05:25 PM
galvanize the capping and then paint it.    Unless you want to deal with the rust and repaint in again within 10 years.   LOL    ;)
Title: Re: Defender TD5 Rebuild
Post by: grizzlychicken on November 07, 2020, 05:28 PM
galvanize the capping and then paint it.    Unless you want to deal with the rust and repaint in again within 10 years.   LOL    ;)
Well it’s already galvanized. Just want to get a better finish and think I will like the blue black contrast.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201108/ecf6e1047505cbb1fe7b24a1a5b94679.jpg)


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Title: Re: Defender TD5 Rebuild
Post by: grizzlychicken on November 07, 2020, 05:34 PM
Getting the floor supports sorted now. I think they should be flat when you place them on the ground:
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201108/3a7d157c930c9398c928adc694712ab8.jpg)

I think I need to tweak mine as they have sagged at one end:

https://youtu.be/BYz1i5bi5Tg

These look aluminum so should be ok to bend


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Title: Re: Defender TD5 Rebuild
Post by: grizzlychicken on November 07, 2020, 05:38 PM
Hmm actually think they are steel.....


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Title: Re: Defender TD5 Rebuild
Post by: Red90 on November 07, 2020, 05:49 PM
Yes. Those are steel.
Title: Defender TD5 Rebuild
Post by: grizzlychicken on November 07, 2020, 05:53 PM
Yes. Those are steel.
Thanks John. That’s what the magnet test told me too!
Also trying to figure out the front support. I imagine it should be flat left to right  but has a bit of an offset on it front back. Ie the front seems a material thickness shorter. And has a couple of recesses in it too.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201108/64b15ed23627a2b7d1ac9b3f3e37306a.jpg)

(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201108/c5553242fcc8597cab2350e1a7420eb5.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201108/3792f70d947b359a5807f12c4549d282.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201108/3854b047c978940875c31f5c06871775.jpg)

I imagine the edge profile should be 90 degrees

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Title: Re: Defender TD5 Rebuild
Post by: grizzlychicken on November 10, 2020, 06:20 PM
After looking at this piece further it is pretty bent!
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201111/0ddd28c86403073895405c0fbf78d619.jpg)
I have a light behind it so you can see the banana shape.
So decided to bend up and fabricate a new support out of aluminum. It’s height is offset the material thickness to allow the rear floor to just come to the wheel well level.  I fabricated a second piece from the second row floor that goes to the edge of the wheel well.

(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201111/a23e94850e4b68a216f65636d3166fac.jpg)

Marked the attachment points for the floor support.

(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201111/e63292e3979c3886024f86c67ce9dc4c.jpg)
Then cut out slots for the floor supports.

(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201111/d3a87192fbe7b4135bfc41870dc12dc3.jpg)

The floor piece is bent to go under this piece hence the under floor support being offset in height. There will be a seam here but think it is better than what was there to start with.


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Title: Re: Defender TD5 Rebuild
Post by: grizzlychicken on November 15, 2020, 11:31 PM
Got the second rear quarter rebuilt and very happy with the outcome.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201116/edbbe85542e122d06f01f9b9c01361ae.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201116/81bc2394a3beb1d12afc96123f292d45.jpg)

Also put together the exmoor rear seat brackets to see where they would line up.

The next step is building the tub. The critical part here is to get the rear door gaps right. I’ll have to research the width. Measured my safari door and it is 36” wide and around 34” on the inside frame. Need to double check those measurements. I found a few measurements online between the rear wheel arches which is 36.4”.
Here is my rough sketch
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201116/51e2c3a6720367b31406c2fe185eaf0f.jpg)

Think I will build it off the body and square it all up then install it. Need to figure out what fasteners to use to attach the cross member supports.

Still a work in progress!


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Title: Re: Defender TD5 Rebuild
Post by: binch on November 16, 2020, 10:05 PM
Looking good Shane!!!!

Those exmoor trim seat bases are interesting looking too..... ???
Title: Defender TD5 Rebuild
Post by: grizzlychicken on November 16, 2020, 10:07 PM
Flipped back to the infamous defender heater rebuild. I know there is a few options here in strategies to deal with the woeful defender heater performance. I think I mentioned my strategy earlier which is:
-Open the bulkhead aperture an additional 3 square inches
-install a new allisport heater core which is quite a bit beefier
-replace the current fan with a new heater fan
-upgrade the heater fan control to the Dutch system.

I did need to repaint it to help with corrosion resistance and of course to make it look pretty:)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201117/82379afde899f0ab611d4c2d62512965.jpg)

 
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201117/92e90bbe45b343ad8aaaf6bc2a5bde89.jpg)

(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201117/c9673713bf240e049ab7de7f9ab52ef0.jpg)

I ordered a new heater seal but didn’t realize there is a big difference between left hand drive seals and right hand drive seals.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201117/521baa0b86a186a3a2f7f4e174b51b1d.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201117/b352633d4befe7e1fb892d1ee5ade3a7.jpg)

So just ordered a new seal. Have to see if it fits!
Pretty happy with how the heater plan is coming.


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Title: Re: Defender TD5 Rebuild
Post by: grizzlychicken on November 16, 2020, 10:12 PM
Looking good Shane!!!!

Those exmoor trim seat bases are interesting looking too..... ???
Thanks Bill,
Yes they are. So they only fold down and don’t tilt forward like the original seats do so see If I like it like that or not :)


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Title: Re: Defender TD5 Rebuild
Post by: Matt H on November 18, 2020, 06:16 PM
Heater fan control to the Dutch system?

Pray tell us more about of this strange magic???
Title: Defender TD5 Rebuild
Post by: grizzlychicken on November 18, 2020, 09:12 PM
Heater fan control to the Dutch system?

Pray tell us more about of this strange magic???
It’s nothing really fancy. Just changes the 2 speed heater fan control into a variable speed fan. It won’t change the fan top end but should have more adjustability in the middle range.

https://shop.landreiziger.nl/elektronische-ventilator-aansturing.html
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201119/19f9c552f9067fc59f8e632bdf06d4ee.jpg)

I like it for the OEM look and feel. Ie it’s not just a knob it’s still a slider :)

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Title: Re: Defender TD5 Rebuild
Post by: grizzlychicken on November 22, 2020, 11:06 PM
Setting up to install the auxiliary fuel tank from britpart that gets mounted in the right hand rear wheel well. Comes with great instructions for britpart.
With the bear march galv chassis there are some differences in the mounting bracket location on the antirollbar mount. There is an extra strengthening grab so the britpart bracket has to be modified a little to fit.
My biggest issue is that my rear seatbelt support tube doesn’t allow the tank to fit flush on the rear support. It pushes the tank away. So just doesn’t fit.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201123/2102ff15f9b7b1d8ed0541025a112cfc.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201123/b81293faff8b32d09f22a11e284c261d.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201123/5da09d23739a15b341d1908593f998ed.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201123/5048bf3f671bfcef156bcec77cd8e44a.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201123/6f44bc84bb910e1ed9cc6505d132d0b2.jpg)

I wonder if it is because the tube is bent from previous corner trauma.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201123/1ef9b4df2b47b894e61ed3631055604b.jpg)

But even being bent the clearance would be really tight.
I think in the end I will need this bracket for it to work and just waiting for an answer from the britpart team here.

https://www.britpart.com/all-parts/da4546kit


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Title: Re: Defender TD5 Rebuild
Post by: grizzlychicken on November 25, 2020, 12:57 AM
Went on to fit the equalizing hose into the tank. Kind of nerve racking drilling a hole in your tank!
Drilled a hole then pushed some wire into the hole and hooked it out with a fish tape
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201125/f9962e2ce49d8afb39df2385af0717ba.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201125/aa963759207c5be97ec8457ff8f87ac5.jpg)

Then threaded the barbed fitting into the wire and tied a knot in it. That allows me to pull it back into the tank and seat it in the newly drilled hole.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201125/280c047fca5750c0671929e2e8bee9d8.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201125/63837dbe6965b5c52131400413763cd5.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201125/09f553fcaaf4dbed3c3ba250971ab394.jpg)

Ready to connect to the auxiliary tank. I am going to grab the feed for the d2 airtronic heater from here too by splicing in a t connector to the hose.


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Title: Defender TD5 Rebuild
Post by: grizzlychicken on November 26, 2020, 08:57 AM
So back to the back of Rover. I have both rear quarters rebuilt and now to put it all together. I think I’ll build it off the chassis then install it. I hope the panels I fabricated all line up!
First placed the rear floor support/ door threshold cross piece in and squared up the corners. Checked the door opening gap. The doormeasures exactly 36” and the wheel well to wheel well measurement would be around 920mm on my 110. The floor is cut at 915mm width.
Clamped that in place and the front crossmember to check that it’s all square
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201126/e849e7acbcbe0d6bcd5268419fec452e.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201126/ac077778f5ea7ddfd723722d299bcf00.jpg)

Got the under floor supports back from the powder later today and they look sexy. Too bad they get burried but at least they should be good for corrosion resistance!
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201126/8e16f4128e5b2595b45be0e3f209560d.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201126/88479f852a7eec9237355a4c55622f85.jpg)

Anyone rebuilt a rear tub before? Am I on the right track? I’m planning on riveting it all together. Likely rivet the front and rear supports and maybe use countersunk rivets to secure the cross pieces......
then rivet the floor and top hats. Prob do the top hats to the floor then the floor to wheel wells.
Any suggestions welcome here as just making it up as I go with what looks like it makes sense!


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Title: Defender TD5 Rebuild
Post by: grizzlychicken on December 10, 2020, 06:10 PM
I moved back to the auxiliary fuel tank install.  They recommend using rivnuts on the frame for the install. So drilled 3 holes in the frame then etch primed and por15 coated each of the holes to prevent corrosion.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201211/b29ec7e922fa810551b998facefcffa0.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201211/788ae9b82157902ef2289c9174b367a8.jpg)
I installed the rivnuts but due to the material thickness of the frame the center rib it didn’t feel right so removed it and put in a regular nut.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201211/8efb728bf93d74dfd6bd0cde759fd2e7.jpg)

I connected the tank leveling pipe and spliced in a tube that feeds the auxiliary eberspacher d2 heater.
I had to find a t connector that worked for the different gas line sizes and found one on eBay.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201211/3324df27522a572e01955b2f37cedf3b.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201211/0e23042034b57fa6bab389b30baf0c45.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201211/2f5b40e3a02801f6e0651cd91580a914.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201211/2f5f1e8e117f60146b3f26724a64f2e2.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201211/b0182b99d78e856f984c92e6062392cd.jpg)

Very happy with how it turned out. Ready for a fuller tank and some auxiliary heat!


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Title: Re: Defender TD5 Rebuild
Post by: binch on December 10, 2020, 10:00 PM
I always enjoy these updates ;)
Title: Re: Defender TD5 Rebuild
Post by: grizzlychicken on December 12, 2020, 08:50 AM
I forgot to put an overall pic of the auxiliary tank:
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201212/e4cd5254698ebc65c088673744b19316.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201212/6ac24e7fa20b5bb5392467ecb9fc1ce2.jpg)

Makes great use of that wheel well space!


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Title: Defender TD5 Rebuild
Post by: grizzlychicken on December 13, 2020, 08:10 PM
So I came back to the bulkhead this weekend. You may remember in a previous post that I squared the bulkhead off to the chassis. But with my tape measure out I realized that the bulkhead has to really be parallel with the b pillar.
The width between the b Pilar and the bulkhead I get as 34 3/4” . So this weekend I made sure the b Pilar was square with the sill rail then I made a spacer stick that was exactly 34 3/4 to check the spacing on the door gap.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201214/4bcc070952b82adc3226abf58ae1ccf5.jpg)

My bulkhead even though it was square with the chassis rail was to far filter toward the back of the truck. So I readjusted the shims so the b Pilar and bulkhead were parallel and it’s pretty close and will do until I have the doors installed:

https://youtu.be/prxTuj06uRg

I can’t say that I though of this myself. Thanks to britanica restorations for the tip! Here is a link to his video tutorial:
https://youtu.be/UwHOYGmtGN4

I realize the sill rail and b/c Pilar assembly is not in its final resting place as will change when I install the rear tub but at least I can get it close then retweak the bulkhead once the tub is in its final resting place.

I feel like a musician with all the fiddling I’m doing


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Title: Re: Defender TD5 Rebuild
Post by: Alex C on December 14, 2020, 08:36 PM
Don't forget if the doors line up with the body, its a sure sign of problems, misalignment and the wind howling in at anything over 30kph is normal
Title: Re: Defender TD5 Rebuild
Post by: grizzlychicken on December 14, 2020, 09:14 PM
Don't forget if the doors line up with the body, its a sure sign of problems, misalignment and the wind howling in at anything over 30kph is normal
Good to know! With that do you mean they sit proud of the bulkhead and b/c Pilar? Kind of out laterally? What kind of lateral spacing are we talking? 1/4”?


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Title: Defender TD5 Rebuild
Post by: grizzlychicken on December 17, 2020, 08:04 PM
I put together the rear tub structure and plan to wiggle it into place and check all my measurements. I’m sure I will have to drill a few rivets out to tweak its alignment but it’s a good start.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201218/609f8f64c5a919a402a4d022552c99f2.jpg)
When I dry fitted the floor I think my right front wheel well will need readjusting.
Working solo in the garage today so managed to shimi it into place using a pair of bumper/panel stands.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201218/9bc740d6ca8eaf95b059d268e6d43f5d.jpg)

I got it into place but will need to readjust the auxiliary fuel tank as it sits to medially so pushes the tub to the left.

I clamped the tub to the c Pilar and front of the rear wheel arch
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201218/086f0d3b93055975c5bc4b4aea9407ae.jpg)

That way I can start to look at the rear door gaps and the rear tub alignment in relation to the bulkhead. I did some cross measurements of the bulkhead from seal lip to seal lip.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201218/5bd9488b47d6e6aab2fadcb326f48b3f.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201218/efed2672be3c0cb861b7ea18cb06afaa.jpg)

I am assuming it is pretty much square so should get the same measurement at the b Pilar and c Pilar’s:
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201218/f50ea0098f38fa5b129c9d8fe8b5abe3.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201218/53e53e6cd208d3de0cbb5eea2741e64d.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201218/80953e81afc22f9a972ded026c792323.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201218/fa119e9dc956db67865a8d1076f9b814.jpg)

I just want to be sure all my body lines will flow!


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Title: Re: Defender TD5 Rebuild
Post by: binch on December 17, 2020, 11:03 PM
Looking very good Shane!   Keep it up..... ;)
Title: Defender TD5 Rebuild
Post by: grizzlychicken on January 07, 2021, 11:34 PM
Ok so feel like I am spending a bunch of time around the rear tub to c Pilar area but need to get it all right!
Just figuring out now why the tub seems to be high at the rear mount points:
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210108/2e55ee09b00fda9b8785769aaa2aa2b7.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210108/caf0d73cb02b26adfd07040e04242393.jpg)

Well I went back and looked at the floor structure and realized after a bit of research that the top hats are not supposed to be under that rear cross beam.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210108/6573094133274d4f73e5b24a9fcd4fb3.jpg)

It goes under the rear floor support that rivets to the rear crossbeam. Here is a photo from yrm. Notice the top hats under the riveted on floor support and above the rear crossbeam.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210108/aa2c4c8591f75bf1a39c3e8cbd2fb9fe.jpg)

Took lots of photos on the tear down but never enough!

I know that most of you guys are shaking your head thinking “this guy is such a rookie!” Well at least I’m learning lots as I go but turning a 100 hour rebuild into a 200 hour rebuild!

How many hours do you think it takes to do a strip down and rebuild??! For me........ 4x your number ;)


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Title: Re: Defender TD5 Rebuild
Post by: binch on January 09, 2021, 03:22 PM
Well, that was a good catch.   But I don't think many people are laughing at all......I for one am very impressed at the effort you are putting into you landy.   Good Job!!!!!   ;)
Title: Defender TD5 Rebuild
Post by: grizzlychicken on January 09, 2021, 10:26 PM
Thanks Bill :)

So fixed the floor supports and the top hats are now sitting right!
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210110/bc9b12ae9aa3f11bcfaf7d5791997859.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210110/ccddc9e81fd4597eac3f87cb7ddfa554.jpg)

Then sealed it all up. Not sure what you guys are using for sealants but here is my range of sealing products(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210110/07e425e7dd69d3f9f454ccb01c766d96.jpg)
I started by referring to the sealing document in the manual but I’m also referring to the “common sense” guide too and sealing where......well..... I think the water would get in. It is already way better than when I pulled it appart. I do realize that you also need drainage so water doesn’t sit so striking the balance.  I realy like the strip caulking or “dumb dumb” in some spots where there is a void to fill and the liquid caulking works well between joined surfaces.

Also got to the rear body mounts done. These are stainless brackets that sit behind the aluminum. There is a plastic film that came with these but think that may not be enough to protect from galvanic corrosion.  Might make up some plastic shims.

(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210110/6bd468a9044a7c883ef67172ca481aa8.jpg)


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Title: Re: Defender TD5 Rebuild
Post by: grizzlychicken on January 10, 2021, 12:49 PM
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210110/3c8d1e6dd0ec74313a5939f5481ace4e.jpg)


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Title: Defender TD5 Rebuild
Post by: grizzlychicken on January 13, 2021, 12:20 AM
Well now onto door gaps! Or is it still working on my door gaps. Maybe scratching my head about door gaps?....?

My constantly evolving strategy is relatively simple. The b Pilar has to first be square to the sill rail (mine isn’t yet :()
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210113/157ae9413c2a2e70c0fd37ec887593db.jpg)

Then I’ll adjust the shims on the bulkhead and use my stick gauge to make sure width is right.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210113/f50c5f958bde5ad4de7d0d67b6fe2f7d.jpg)

That should sort out the front.
Then hoping the door gap on the c Pilar will just fall into place!
Here is my b Pilar gaps without the b Pilar square:
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210113/a9a88e22f17e9e122dc8d108753016f2.jpg)
A Pilar pretty good gap
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210113/ec47c908f1cc960f293fe44823cafac4.jpg)

And c Pilar is bad but will change when I adjust the b Pilar. This is with the correct gap between the door and the b Pilar (not like the photo above)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210113/26e1f0b20ed4e6937c5931f3c7d58870.jpg)
Like this:

(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210113/52a5d4f609a9ea8a2ea8f2bf0e8a9785.jpg)

I am hoping I don’t have to drill the spot welds out on the c Pilar and move it forward for door gap.
I think this is pretty much the fussiest part of the build and will be the most obvious if i balls
It up!


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Title: Re: Defender TD5 Rebuild
Post by: ugly_90 on January 13, 2021, 06:52 AM
It looks like you're missing the rubber/foam door seal for final adjustments. You're best to reuse old door seal until after painting.
Title: Re: Defender TD5 Rebuild
Post by: grizzlychicken on January 13, 2021, 10:55 PM
It looks like you're missing the rubber/foam door seal for final adjustments. You're best to reuse old door seal until after painting.
Yup I still have those and using them to help with the gaps! Good tip


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Title: Re: Defender TD5 Rebuild
Post by: grizzlychicken on January 13, 2021, 11:00 PM
Small things! Couldn’t find one of my door hinge nut plates in my super organized filing system ;)
So decided to weld one up rather than paying for the replacement. Made it from some scraps I had lying around.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210114/a9f60c9351428f8df3431913752a3479.jpg)
Used the other nut plate and some m8 bolts to align the nuts on the plate for welding so it will line up with the hinge.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210114/bcba55cafc5901de061160956d6ba156.jpg)

Ugly welds but will work a treat :)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210114/55c6282128e9fdb964af16dcad449885.jpg)


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Title: Re: Defender TD5 Rebuild
Post by: grizzlychicken on January 14, 2021, 09:13 PM
So I worked a bit more on my door gaps tonight. From my last post you can see the main issue here was the b Pilar wasn’t square. The bulkhead is now square to the sill rail so have to fix the b pilar.  I don’t have a porta power so just set up a come along to nudge the Pilar straight
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210115/87438bae40fd096944e84d7b2e0805dc.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210115/5dbf63bd28f7eae20acf7705c3ee863b.jpg)

I set this up and decided I wanted to reinforce the sill rail to stop it flexing too much so clamped another piece of steel to it.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210115/906585d4d3ffde11a34535b02076280b.jpg)

Looking at this setup I wasn’t happy with the line of pull of the come along or where the fulcrum of force would be so added an outrigger piece of steel that I bolted to the come along to make the pull more horizontal in the b Pilar. With the end of it sitting next to the b Pilar at the base that would create the force fulcrum I need.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210115/933ddf19b93354fe132d448d155a5d6a.jpg)

And success!
Good door gaps now on the right!
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210115/c714e815525b919855e25c9e1a4b9d83.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210115/003fd361cc0af35d97c463d397e72f43.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210115/9dbbbbb1e44e3acc43838a0459e9cc6f.jpg)


Next I need to tackle the left side!


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Title: Re: Defender TD5 Rebuild
Post by: binch on January 14, 2021, 09:56 PM
ahhhhh, she's coming together nicely  ;)
Title: Defender TD5 Rebuild
Post by: grizzlychicken on January 23, 2021, 10:48 PM
Did some work in the left door gaps.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210124/564e162eaf0cc2ca5c910f848bee6b09.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210124/67dbed7068cc4377b154a615010cf190.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210124/89a3985e3a8bc79b4314f036cabd2402.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210124/82de58d94a920010d8c9bbaaabb01a63.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210124/375a94a110db7ebdfc74b2a18275ef3e.jpg)

Door gaps not great on this side either.

So started by checking the b Pilar again and it looks nice and square.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210124/ff59ca81913b1b096aeee9110e4c793e.jpg)

The issue on this side looks like the bulkhead not being square to the rail.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210124/5703feadceddde944999092d48bc02c0.jpg)
So took out a shim and adjusted the bulkhead bracket bit that didn’t quite do it. So decided to tweak the bulkhead with the come along again.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210124/e22788f17d4c30e67b2ff249beb1e296.jpg)

That worked a treat!
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210124/c18eb4e42ec4fc3ac524644afcdd14fb.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210124/f5835b8f85fd19ee1219141e9170764e.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210124/359856db232a1622d96cd659c809f6ed.jpg)

Doors are square front to back and just have to get the doors square laterally now but think that can be handled with shims after I paint.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210124/9fe3989ba2204a8fa2349f1d3322cad7.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210124/acc2fd191195cd8033dc7dc8d6891528.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210124/fe2ebfed0c0537f50b963a67d5107246.jpg)

Will check the rear safari door gap next then tear it down for paint.


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