Post by: grizzlychicken on April 18, 2020, 06:14 PM
So I didn't plan to buy a defender to rebuild but here I am. I live in Canmore,Alberta and was interested in defenders for a long time. I have a young family and was justifying to my wife that a defender would be great! It can seat 9 people so what a great family car :)
I go to Europe once a year on business so was determined to source my own defender as they seemed pricy here in Canada. I found a candidate in Italy and went over to check it out, bought it and shipped it back. She doesn't have a name, my kids just call her rover.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200419/0dd1bcfdead8c9ed3336b307471a7c26.jpg)
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Post by: grizzlychicken on April 18, 2020, 06:34 PM
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200419/7f70ff0739c8dbd9b14d1713bc72bdf8.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200419/57f58805f307f0f0823a789ca66e545a.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200419/111bcd152be8126f7623a8cc7dfc9277.jpg)
I also realized that there was they typical rust in the door frames and particularly bad in one door.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200419/432cd5c4e514b569fdb61f252a039715.jpg)
Hidden by foam.
So I thought to myself that someday I want to fix all these issues. I know defenders are supposed to be rough and utilitarian but my dream was to make her a comfortable daily driver that would still be formidable off road and ok to drive in our Canadian Winters.
But not right away........
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Post by: grizzlychicken on April 18, 2020, 07:11 PM
I was exited too that she had a Webasto coolant heater! There was no remote or way to start it up so researched and sourced one on eBay. Unfortunately even with the remote the webasto has issues. It would start up then shut itself down. I found a way to talk to it and it told me that It wasn't getting enough voltage. (9v) So would auto shut down after a short cycle......bummer. The webasto technician in Calgary advised either a new brain or a new heater. I decided on brain surgery and ordered one from Europe. Same issue so I put that on hold as spring had sprung and I didn't need I at that moment
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200419/8f93bdd1788afcb1d60e750e51896d0e.jpg)
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Post by: binch on April 18, 2020, 07:34 PM
I have one in my 110 and love the thing!!!! I have a toggle on/off switch so it a simple manual set up and only installed to make it easier to start in the winter. I bought a remote control (Red90's suggestion) some 10 years ago but have yet to install it LOL. I liked them so much I bought a second one for my 200tdi RRC.....I still have the webasto but not that RRC. I've going to put it into the 91 RRC I'm rebuilding now.
"hi, my name's Bill....and I'm an addict" :-\
Gotta love 'em
Post by: grizzlychicken on April 18, 2020, 08:26 PM
Quote from: binch on April 18, 2020, 07:34 PMHey Bill,
Is your power for the webasto coming directly from the battery?
I have one in my 110 and love the thing!!!! I have a toggle on/off switch so it a simple manual set up and only installed to make it easier to start in the winter. I bought a remote control (Red90's suggestion) some 10 years ago but have yet to install it LOL. I liked them so much I bought a second one for my 200tdi RRC.....I still have the webasto but not that RRC. I've going to put it into the 91 RRC I'm rebuilding now.
"hi, my name's Bill....and I'm an addict" :-\
Gotta love 'em
Power was routed through the remote. I'm pretty sure it was a poor earthing issue. Good idea to wire it direct from the battery. I do lie the idea of starting the coolant heater from the house though via the remote
. I have it out now so will bench test it and work backwards that waySent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Post by: grizzlychicken on April 18, 2020, 08:43 PM
I decided to get a nanocom so I could read and clear codes along with tuning my td5 and adding cruise control etc at a later date. I know most don't want these features but it is nice as a daily driver.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200419/64bc553685e50a6f6689517fcbd4fe84.jpg)
I am sure most of you are way more advanced on looking at the ecu but I found out that the the ECU on models upto 2001 is analogue. They begin with MSB xxxxxxx. That means that you can't remap it via the nanocom. So time fo an ECU upgrade. The ecu with the start code of NNN xxxxx etc is digital and you can flash it to accept custom maps. I found a used nnn ecu and installed it. I then flashed the ecu with the factory map to start and it worked like a charm.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200419/6f941bb94e40adc5bc0334f7b3f44497.jpg)
I researched some more and found this website:
https://www.discotd5.com
He does an awesome job of breaking down the ecu function and shared a general tune file for the td5 ecu which runs way better than the stock rover ecu tune. So I flashed the new ecu map and that helped with power quite a bit.
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Post by: binch on April 19, 2020, 08:05 AM
"What is dis ting yu call.... T d 5 ?"
LOL ;D
Post by: grizzlychicken on April 19, 2020, 09:41 AM
So over the next summer I decided I needed to upgrade the 2nd row passenger seats. I felt that I didn't feel the original seats were safe enough for the kids on the 4000km trip that summer. I looked into factory or aftermarket options but they were a few $$ so I found some seats from an auto wrecker from a Nissan Pathfinder and went about adapting them to fit her.
First thing I had a plate made up that I bolted to the main reinforcement points in the floor and to the attachment points in the chassis.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200419/9b5917cdcfb04f6c9a0e2a0f4005c9f9.jpg)
The recess I cut out of the wheel wells to accommodate the clip in mechanism of the seats I got. The seats still folded fully forward. It was a bi fiddly to get them to work and the seats ended up pretty verticals as the floor in the defender is pretty level compared to a pathfinder that has a recessed floor for the seats but they fit pretty well.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200419/ceb65b807a83b745e096ee3b8eb341dc.jpg)
Unfortunately I don't have a good pic of the seats installed but they were a big improvement on the old seats!
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200419/1e80ea191c99c3f8ebc61bd7918a1e7e.jpg)
Playing with the seats made me realize however that things weren't lining up quite right......
This was reinforced when I decided to get a rear antiroll bar. Yes I know most hard core off-roaders will remove these but I was after better road handling as a priority and found a set of rear antiroll bars that you could disconnect when needed. So I got this system:
https://foundry4x4.co.uk/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=76
Now these were supposed to be plug and play but they didn't line up and would take serious modification to fit them. So I then went about checking my chassis alignment and realized that there was a serious twist and lateral shear.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200419/bd330f988c8d00fbfe3ff26b54b0f059.jpg)
Hmm so I decided to just keep driving her for now as she drove great but her alignment wasn't good.
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Post by: grizzlychicken on April 19, 2020, 11:48 AM
I know heat is always an issue with cold weather for defenders but with no fan it became a bit ridiculous.
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Post by: grizzlychicken on April 19, 2020, 12:10 PM
Towed rover back to canmore where she was parked in my driveway. Time for some open heart surgery!
It would go into gear but lacked any drive.
So I decided to pull the transmission and transfer case.
I pulled Both and then determined that the lack of drive was coming from the transfer case. The transmission seemed to be functioning normally.
I pulled the transfer case apart and the first thing I found was shrapnel in the base of the case. Something had been shredded:
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200419/97122ffbf1518e028fda3c14e620a780.jpg)
These pieces are gear shaped pieces of metal.
On further inspection I found that the input gear to the transfer case had been totally stripped and where there was supposed to be gear there was a smooth cylinder surface:
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200419/bb1087f000b75ed74a7bf8957da2af89.jpg)
It should have looked like this:
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200419/728d4a6197d12e70cb9dac3903f08ff2.jpg)
On further inspection I found that the support bearing for the gear was totally collapsed:
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200419/ed15959c05aa078ab10e910653a7a78e.jpg)
So there had been some oil leaking from the intermediate shaft common with the lt77 where the case gets ovalised from the steel shaft and no longer seals. Very common source of transfer case oil leaks. I had checked the oil recently but must have had a catastrophic oil loss and lubrications failure of the bearing which in turn caused the gear to be mobile and when the gears lost mesh the teeth must have been torn off the gear.
So time to rebuild the transfer case!
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Post by: binch on April 19, 2020, 10:30 PM
If you are looking for a good heater upgrade that will take any cold weather we can get...go have a look at what John Barge did in his 90!!! When your kids asks you "Can you turn the heat down???" in a defender you know you're on the right track ;)
Post by: grizzlychicken on April 19, 2020, 11:44 PM
Quote from: binch on April 19, 2020, 10:30 PMThanks bill,
This is a great write up Shane! Very informative.
If you are looking for a good heater upgrade that will take any cold weather we can get...go have a look at what John Barge did in his 90!!! When your kids asks you "Can you turn the heat down???" in a defender you know you're on the right track ;)
I'm surprised someone is listening to my ramblings!
The write up is as much for me to remember and keep track as it is for others too although I hope it is useful to someone
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Post by: grizzlychicken on April 20, 2020, 09:40 AM
I am however a tinkerer. My mechanical tinkering started 25 years ago when a dirt bike I had needed its crankshaft replace. So I pulled it appart and figured out how I all went back together. Those were the days of no internet ant just intuition! A few years before that in about grade 9 I pulled appart a lawnmower engine for a science project and explained how it worked on vhs video for the classes viewing pleasure. Fun projects at the time!
In my early 20's I was cheap (or broke!) but wanted a Toyota hilux truck. I found a nice cheap one. I learnt the important lesson of never buy a truck in the rain at night! Subsequently I found the chassis of that hilux had rotted through and was being held together by 2 pieces of angle welded to the chassis. I have a friend a ride in my "new truck" and as he was getting into it he place his hand in the window pillar and fouls it to be crunching under his fingers. That too was rotted out.
So I had a bit of a Delma. I couldn't in good conscience sell it to another person knowing the structural issues with it so decided to try my hand at fixing it.
I sourced a use chassis from a wrecker and they cut out a hinge pillar for me too. So I spent about the next year and a half doing a cab off chassis change and cut the hinge Pilar out. I did get someone else to weld It in as my welding skills are beginner at best! I was very happy with how it turned out but it was a bit rough with the finishing but structurally sound!
My passion since then has been motorbikes and I have a number of projects on the go from a 1929 triumph WS:
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200420/1d1345a9b773314e26d469246e5eba4e.jpg)
To an ex German ww2 1944 BMW R75 with sidecar:
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200420/0e3517557c9ece08306bb06786c480c5.jpg)
These will be both mechanical and paint restorations.
I also tinker with robotics and have mostly built a full size r2d2 replica:
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200420/2c8e81a01c9ee502cd654d44255eb899.jpg)
I am a bit of a Star Wars fan. I built a full scale accurate Chewbacca costume and I volunteer with it to raise money for make a wish, which helps sick kids get their wishes granted. It is a geeky but fun and rewarding pastime. After building the Chewbacca costume I had to build a C3po backpack or him a la empire strikes back to make him feel complete:
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200420/ef4eb1102f7c39fcdf2628c068b32433.jpg)
Yes that is me!
Anyway so I'm a tinkerer. I like to figure out how things work and put them back together or build them from scratch. My biggest issue is having too many projects and following them through to completion! That will be the challenge with the defender rebuild!
Ramble over............
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Post by: Red90 on April 20, 2020, 10:07 AM
Quote from: grizzlychicken on April 20, 2020, 09:40 AMJust for everyone's reference I am not a mechanic.
Land Rover has been turning owners into mechanics since 1948.
Post by: binch on April 20, 2020, 06:03 PM
Quote from: Red90 on April 20, 2020, 10:07 AMQuote from: grizzlychicken on April 20, 2020, 09:40 AMJust for everyone's reference I am not a mechanic.
Land Rover has been turning owners into mechanics since 1948.
Or at least trying ROFL (thinking of some of my own efforts)
Post by: JamesS on April 20, 2020, 10:20 PM
Post by: grizzlychicken on April 21, 2020, 12:05 AM
James if you mean the hilux change I did take photos way back then and I think I still have them but it was pre digital back in 94 I think so will take a look. For rover pics are coming of the chassis after some more rambling!
I think I had already showed pics of the transmission gear that was stripped to the bone. To get there I first removed the transmission and transfer case. It was November in Canmore and there was no room in the garage (dam kids sports stuff!) so surgery happened in the driveway. After a few cold days of wrenching the transmission/transfer case combo ended up on my work bench in the warmth of my garage!
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200421/aaf87270ba882f7653ece5fbae50dec2.jpg)
Both the transfer case and gearbox were covered with the regular oily muck that comes with a defender drivetrain although there seemed to be an abundance of oily crap accumulated on the transfer case in particular. I couldn't see a clear leak from the transmission antoigh the bell housing was coated in oil that I think had come from a rear engine oil seal.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200421/838b9c18d57f7c8216de4c8c11a042b5.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200421/62d683c344ebe8f0d75433411af56980.jpg)
So from there I ordered a transfer case rebuild kit from Ashcroft transmissions, a new input gear and since my plan was to upgrade the engine power some more I decided to up the high range gear ratio as I had to order the intermediate gear anyway. I also wanted to improve the on road traction control so also ordered an ATB limited slip diff for the transfer case.
All the parts arrived and I was pretty exited to put it all together. However when preping the transfer case for the bearings I realized that the bearing seats had been damaged by the collapse bearing...........shit.......I should have just ordered a rebuilt transfer case directly from Ashcroft! But I was committed as shipping was a killer for all these heavy things!
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200421/e7528e7fab23e9b2914948a0cb90f63c.jpg)
And Santa sent me a new transfer case shell.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200421/5963729675334bef2a6c36267d87ca6d.jpg)
I decided to call aschcroft just before this order as I wanted to have everything I needed in one shipping cost. After chatting with the owner, who is a helpful guy of few words, he recommended to change out the main shaft in the transmission as the splines often get worn on the output shaft which is another reason for possible backlash and loss of drive. I was also suspiciously the input shaft as it seemed to have excessive play and also the crankshaft bushing which, the shaft sits in, had significant wear.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200421/0c8bddba48c79df414f0cbcb6839948f.jpg)
https://youtu.be/AC0dACSh1rE (https://youtu.be/AC0dACSh1rE)
So I ordered a rebuild kit for the transmission and a new shaft. Here we go!
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Post by: grizzlychicken on April 21, 2020, 12:56 AM
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200421/02cf42976fbd166018440466d3d81f4c.jpg)
While I was waiting for all these bits to get here, since I had pulled the seats, carpet, floor panels etc from the car I kept just pulling things apart.....
It was then I decided to order a new chassis through the club along with a bunch of other bits. I had already sourced new doors, hood, and other bits I'll show as I put her back together but the chassis I feel is the core of the car and has to be right. So a galvanized heavy duty chassis was on its way. Why do I need a new chassis? Well usually most defender owners replace their chassis due to rust but once I stripped mine down I found a significant twist and sideways shunt. It must have been hit in the back corner very had at one point.
Fortunately we have a rental property in Canmore and the renters were moving out. So I managed to renovate the house to allow me to keep the heated garage! So the stripping process was on! Down to bare bones!
First though I picked up the new chassis. Unfortunately some of the brackets had been bent in shipping but nothing that a hammer couldn't fix!
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200421/cba25fba686232b34d43e3fd6331dd6a.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200421/268877c7bcb14083629fbb8b388d3d56.jpg)
The I took the new chassis to the powdercoater.
Before:
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200421/dcee11af112fe092bbcfa53c7d71e5f0.jpg)
After:
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200421/02a7cf2cc928ca3869dc19943797a7b0.jpg)
Oh it was a thing of beauty! Unfortunately it had rained while sitting in the yard which covered it with a thin film of dust. Just needed a bit of cleaning.
I decided that the color should be Matt black as I read somewhere that that was more of an OEM finish for a defender. In hindsight now though I think it would have been a little better in their standard more gloss black. That's just me being picky and I may still clear coat the chassis to gloss it up slightly and add another layer of protection to the metal.
Calgary powdercoating did an awesome job!
It was then time to take it home and set it up and start to completely strip down rover.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200421/03ba94d33ebfef023c143e00d8f5b444.jpg)
How to solo unload a chassis :)
And here comes the stripper....um stripping.... um you know what I mean!
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200421/8bd10caa38de2f48993c78d5ae41fc98.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200421/4fccae4ac38bf4a7edba46bc525be073.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200421/e8c85951d779ca64f10c90c846c7110b.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200421/6155e8062664671cdc14b059dfe4e1e7.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200421/93e73c63d2a9bab17eddab81fc500053.jpg)
Bulkhead bolts were a bugger
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200421/bac67fbbcd38625f8bd3ba1f92265bbb.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200421/3261f87b65ea27d33baef2243b562bcf.jpg)
And here is why I did the chassis change:
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200421/194762a41ee88212c22a69979e0b834f.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200421/13648e230de30db8f83f16bf42a36e20.jpg)
Stay tuned! More to come!
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Post by: Red90 on April 21, 2020, 11:02 AM
Post by: Matt H on April 21, 2020, 03:18 PM
Post by: ugly_90 on April 21, 2020, 07:29 PM
I wouldn't have top coated the galvanized frame black though, I would have finished there. Heresy!
Post by: grizzlychicken on April 22, 2020, 12:07 AM
So yes you can certainly do a chassis swap if you plan on not changing much else with your vehicle and can end up with a great running truck if it has good bones. As I was pulling things appart on rover I realized that there would be some deeper rehab needed including paint and body work. Rovers bones were a little brittle!
For example let's start with the bulk head. Removing this beast was a chore. The bolts attaching the bulkhead to the chassis were well rusted in placed and sheared off pretty quickly and needed heat and persuasion to get removed!
On assessing the bulkhead I knew it was commonly corroded as it was steel. Looking at my bulkhead I didn't think it was too bad and certainly salvageable.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200422/df6e45719009a2f3e368c16b92897eba.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200422/b7c94603d62042fe42144c427a9ee962.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200422/f80a26b62173fd0ad20d88a801c654b8.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200422/e71cdd6bf06b98757fda9d8292126aa0.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200422/77e0cac1aaa84a64186dcd04cf5dc394.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200422/d64965f4b44431b87ec5a8492ecb37fa.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200422/fc9d0e05b8b9784bf557269468504f66.jpg)
I sandblasted it at consolidated compressor to see how deep the rabbit hole goes.....
Then I asked the guys at high wood rod and custom to help out with some repairs. They did an awesome job!
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200422/da6d63443a6e8802db36d5762877ed33.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200422/4d818973587722c60a46e924739b7a64.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200422/6ffe75bd5d26f7ef8af73fce56f433f6.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200422/6051c833ed3ffa9a4b8593e8750a6566.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200422/2d0ffd480e974c9e4c22279ae06c736c.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200422/27b8126ae5831b2cf4eee572b5a3e60d.jpg)
And then prep to get it galvanized:
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200422/b7482b26880bdd94dd30abcc165a2e6f.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200422/41d45749e448fd09a55957d54304c8e6.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200422/e6e490addd4f1b8ea6e73f2bbcbae06f.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200422/942d9435504583db99b733dbcdd41201.jpg)
Covering the bolts with high temperature sealant helps with removing the galvanization after.
Then a few weeks later another thing of beauty! And only 100 bucks!
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200422/1f44ea4f58df0f6f51fdf0c5adf6f214.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200422/a9ecb94cfa599e912bcad52493cd8040.jpg)
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Post by: ugly_90 on April 22, 2020, 09:00 AM
You're lucky you didn't get a warp in the flat areas of that bulkhead during the heat of dip galvanizing. On an older bulkhead than yours, particularly with any welding patches, it would be worth the risk of galvanizing. I would top coat and paint that bulkhead though, unlike the frame.
I ended up spraying line-x bedliner on the inside engine-side of the refinished bulkhead on order to stop future abrasion/corrosion, it went together ok.
Post by: binch on April 22, 2020, 06:16 PM
You can't go wrong with it....once you put it back together again it will just last and last. Also makes a big difference in resale....if it ever comes to that.
GREAT JOB!!!!! And the write up is very motivating too ;)
Post by: grizzlychicken on April 23, 2020, 10:02 AM
So I think Bill mentioned Johns excellent post on his heater upgrades which was an excellent read and a great job. I have a plan for improving heating on rover too. When I pulled the bulkhead appart I was quite surprised about the small heating aperture that was transferring all the heat from the heating box to the foot wells and windshield. I also realized that the heater core was on the smaller side for
That vehicle and that my heater blower fan was not functioning and when I did the fan control had 2 speeds- slower and faster.
So aperture size:
To start with the heater box has a pretty big output:
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200423/1f68c7a1bb128e922c764a5b8445e462.jpg)
It is an Interesting design feature that they have a good chunk of that output restricted by a smaller
hole in the firewall:
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200423/0335600d70dea573f6eaac0688525511.jpg)
So before I had the bulkhead galvanized I measured the size hole appropriate for the heater box outflow (see marked above) and cut it out. This should be a significant in helping air flow.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200423/c70f7112bd2f1448e936cb0b9bb18dcd.jpg)
It doesn't look much but it was quite the chunk removed. At least an inch by 3 inches. So probably around a 20% aperture size increase.
Next in the plan was to upgrade the heate core. I had done quite a bit of lookin around and found what I think would be the best stock upgrade for my setup which is a new alisport upgrades heate core. Oh it's so pretty :)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200423/5f260dfb0bf6a00d05d68f46c207868e.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200423/509c60bf2d44291be10c5906c9aad814.jpg)
The last part was replacing the blower motor. I was trying to find an option that would spin a a higher RPM that would fit into the stock housing but was not successful. I think I will add a step up transformer from 12v to15v which should be within the tolerance of the motor but should be a more reliable spin since the alternator should be between 13-14v it should increase the motor rpm slightly
https://www.amazon.com/DC-DC-module-120Wmax-supply-converter/dp/B00M3ZQF7W
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200423/7f02bcd848e0f57650c811bd87120aee.jpg)
Old heater fan rust. I think if I pulled I appart The bushings would be worn out.
So for better fan control I found a dutch digital controller that i think will allow way more placement(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200423/5f260dfb0bf6a00d05d68f46c207868e.jpg)
adjustability.
https://shop.landreiziger.nl/elektronische-ventilator-aansturing.html n
Also keeps with the stock look.
I have the webasto took but this system doesn't really help move more air in the Vehicle as it just used the current ducting and us fan setup. It's great as a coolant heater and blockheater substitute.
So for extra heating I'm probably going to add an airtronic d2 ( I know it's essentially 2 auxiliary heaters!) and likely mount it in the battery compartment.
Post by: Matt H on April 23, 2020, 06:35 PM
The Defender source forum has lots of threads on this.
Post by: binch on April 23, 2020, 10:27 PM
Great right up here shane!!!!
Post by: grizzlychicken on April 24, 2020, 06:26 PM
Hey Bill I totally agree that you have to improve the air flow. There are no real specs on the blower motors for the defender as far as motor RPM or CFM.
My thought for excellent heat flow would be:
-improve the motor power
-improve the actual fan and how much air
The fan can display at a given RPM
-minimize the resistance to air flow from the heater box.
I do a bench test of my old blower motor by hooking it up to a battery(which I found out after had only 6v so need to repeat the test!) and marked a white spot on the fan. I then used the fancy iPhone slow mo feature to count the actual revolutions the fan made in 10 seconds by having a stopwatch in the background.
My data:
At 6.4v
Total revolutions 111
Total time 5 sec
Total RPM 1332.
So I will retest my old blower and compare it to my new blower for RPm at the same voltage.....when my battery charges up!
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Post by: grizzlychicken on April 25, 2020, 01:54 PM
Old: 2760rpm
New: 2880 RPM
This would be at aroun 12v or maximal voltage. With the alternator putting out 13.8v I would imagine that I would boost the rpm to around 3000
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200425/9463b46743a9468043c1fd425a3c07bc.jpg)
Old motor test:
New blower motor rpm test:
Now just have to figure out alternate motors RPM :)
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Post by: grizzlychicken on April 26, 2020, 01:13 AM
With stripping the chassis down, of course both axels, steering, suspension have to all come off and all the brackets from the chassis along with gas tank mounts and protective plates. I also pulled off the bull bar and the running board steps.
The garage looked like a bit of a defender slaughter house when I was done with parts everywhere. It is going to be a jigsaw puzzle putting this thing back together!
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200426/80c30a87d6f698da3d3f2bf8e8818174.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200426/a3eb7c293a8e1327a12a1be677136c32.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200426/51b44dd64803b1064387d4992ca697d7.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200426/c7477a51503cb537f3b12a9c68b0ea25.jpg)
So from here I started with the suspension components. After looking at the bushings I decided I needed to change these up which should also help with the on road ride comfort. So to the press!
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200426/28f8b987c094bec137261c6f11a605d7.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200426/8ec622f437f13ab7a223346c9f3ff2c5.jpg)
Pressed most of the bushings out. I did read about burning them out but that was taking way too long! These will be replaced with poly bushings.
So now I had a pile of suspension components and steering components and they were in good straight condition but the paint was flaky and they had surface rust. So decided to do a powder coating run.
In the run I decided to tear down both axels too as they were straight but not pretty. While at it the brakes and brake disc guards needed to be done too.
And while I'm at it I may as well do the wheel wells!
It took about a week but when I got all the bits back I was super happy with how they turned out!
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200426/417e863114e1a75dbc00c59ee00b435a.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200426/050a7e37df65bfe615ae279849c7d77b.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200426/653fca6bd7ca00dc81d834ab5d28d11d.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200426/d2c67255df044b004e84e41d25a2a378.jpg)
Now to get working on a rolling chassis!
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Post by: binch on April 26, 2020, 04:01 PM
I would have suggested Endura epoxy coating rather the power coat though as it would have been more durable, especially under the vehicle.
BUT.....it looks VERY nice right now ;-)
Post by: grizzlychicken on April 28, 2020, 06:29 PM
So I'm going to skip to what I'm currently working on which is my ad west four bolts light weight steering box. So I have pulled it apart slowly and I think this is the original box and has had no servicing in the past. It was quite the rusty mess to pull apart!
I first had to pull off the main steering arm which one reading about it is a bugger to get off for everybody. I ended up modifying the stand I welded together for my transmission overhaul (One of my first weld jobs!) so it would fit underneath the press that I have. I finally got the arm off after 10 tons of force!
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200429/5607cf758b5b22335fa02f390c04e4ac.jpg)
The next real bugger of a job was to peel off the oversized retaining clip. It looks so easy in some of the videos I looked at but took hours of man handling as it was rusted in place.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200429/5e4d4e529f5cb4452d6e26791c899fc9.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200429/8eaded7be6bec8663a874643ab320775.jpg)
After that I thought I was on the home stretch but the next adjuster which has a super shallow slot was also stuck. I made a tool to remove it: out of an old socket and flat bar but ended up having to tack weld the tool to the adjuster but to get it to budge.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200429/9f4548af44568c181a70cbfa9b20ced8.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200429/9513857d073c8c0e9a81aee7ac21295f.jpg)
Ok now that I've pulled it all apart I am starting to inspect the shafts. The main shaft has what I have found out is pretty typical wear on the output shaft:
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200429/3d779e559d6759ec0dd79aa48b8581ac.jpg)
Unfortunately the worm gear has a pretty good groove in it. It almost looks cracked but I think it is just a ridge of metal. I have tried to buff it up with emery paper but I don't think it will come out :(
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200429/9ae16fb92d9477f98d2c57075972d49e.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200429/d87e62756c73521a926b4f3436755375.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200429/9a81a68399c4abecfa16e89e6665a53e.jpg)
So just pricing the shafts out is ridiculous for price. My options:
-Buy a new or recon box looks like £250-500 depending on the source.
-Source a used box and pull the guts out (although my box needs quite a bit of TLC to get rid of some of the rust)
Thoughts? Anyone have a spare shaft or two? I might post an ask on the wanted page too...
Post by: Red90 on April 28, 2020, 06:50 PM
Post by: grizzlychicken on April 28, 2020, 06:52 PM
Quote from: Red90 on April 28, 2020, 06:50 PMThanks John,
Your best bet is to throw that out and get a used box from a Disco 1 at a wreckers or off of someone around here that has a yard full of Discos.
So a disco 1 has the same steering box as a defender 110? Any ideas on where to source it?
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Post by: grizzlychicken on April 28, 2020, 07:19 PM
https://www.picknpull.com/vehicle_details.aspx?VIN=SALJY1240TA195981
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Post by: Red90 on April 28, 2020, 07:44 PM
https://row52.com/Vehicle/Index/SALJY1240TA195981
Post by: binch on April 28, 2020, 08:00 PM
You might want to keep an eye on the pitman arm as some drop more then others (between the discos/RRCs and the defenders).
Great write up so far shane!!! ;)
Post by: Red90 on April 28, 2020, 08:05 PM
Post by: grizzlychicken on April 29, 2020, 10:09 PM
Ok so where was I....... oh yes I had just powder coated my undercarriage!
So with the frame sorted and the running gear renewed I moved onto examining the bodywork. The base color under the remains was the typical defender green. Unfortunately whoever painted it was covering up some shoddy bodywork and was using some kind of cheap beadliner to do it. So the bulkhead seems nice and straight but both B Pilar's and C Pilar's weren't lining up.
Here you can see why one side wasn't!
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200430/d4715f39a0e735970a6b306248191cc3.jpg)
So I ordered both B Pilar's and C Pilar's from yrm metal solutions which are awesome and had them welded to the sill rail by high wood customs. John O was kind enough to do a drive by to help measure up the spacing from his defender and cross reference to the current rover spacing.
So brand new and aligned cab frame! Yay!
Next was the right rear quarter panel. I knew it would be in rough shape as that is were it must have been hit. Once I peeled the checker plate off it showed some missing metal and some twisted bits!
I ordered some reasonably priced rear pieces for the quarters and corner guards. The guys at highwood again helped me with replacing a chunk of the rear right quarter panel.
Progress pics:
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200430/c32c79696f0d16e74958427973708216.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200430/210b6271ee0b8da150fe5355bac961bd.jpg)
Final product:
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200430/b208a57b857d165c651526e7a442c4f3.jpg)
So I ordered galvanized rails for the rear quater again from yrm metal solutions but was pretty disappointed with them. They were bent in the group shipping we did as they were not packed well but they straightened out fine. The biggest issue was the massive unfinished weld that was galvanized and for me has to still be addressed. I thought it would come back much cleaner.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200430/f5e775db38d2b5a52ee4253f18365ee2.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200430/a60af8313904fc80924ea2acc946f1ab.jpg)
Ok so the rear quarters, bulkhead and cab frame were good. I am reusing the front quarters and have opted to paint strip them. The left one is a little rough and I will have to see if it will straighten out. I have replacement headlight panels so could do that but haven't got that far yet .
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200430/bad71d07c9fb06c19e8172b45a32a0ca.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200430/92eba2dc9d3952393a6b90dc5f97314a.jpg)
Oh and I have 5 new doors and a new hood waiting for some love when I get there!
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200430/6587748c4c5c848b054f77f72f8b7eab.jpg)
That's all for now. Roof update to come!
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Post by: binch on April 30, 2020, 03:31 PM
Post by: grizzlychicken on April 30, 2020, 11:56 PM
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200501/dec8ff1ac0354f1165d84dbf36b91bf3.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200501/c2cb4e3788d01201a7017ed60efba06f.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200501/eec3b11d0307d4f10c22c5abf9827ef4.jpg)
And repaired
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200501/84cf6faa8377f8355a00fe0c610729b1.jpg)
This is why I had the b and c Pilar's replaced:
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200501/8c2d52f1d96dc6cad4171faef9937198.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200501/66d1a930fb6a444d9dfccc4f931934ea.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200501/d189a07e8d0a0811a2daaf4add550b04.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200501/273b636dd9929fb398bc70e93475dc08.jpg)
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Post by: binch on May 01, 2020, 05:36 AM
Post by: grizzlychicken on May 01, 2020, 10:37 AM
Quote from: binch on May 01, 2020, 05:36 AMOk thanks bill. I have some wax oil that I was going to use on my chassis. I do want to do an internal coating on the Pilar's to protect these bits and might do a primer then the wax oil!
I was just thinking.....Wurth makes a good body cavity waxoil that would suit the insides of those pillars nicely. Not cheap but it's a good product. I used it in the 'A' pillars of my 110 and applied it to my foot wells (inside the cab) before I installed my Accoustic matting system. ;)
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Post by: grizzlychicken on May 01, 2020, 01:33 PM
The chassis is generally well made but I was a little surprised with some of the differences from the original defender chassis.
-difference #1 is the mounting point for the rear floor is not directly welded to the rear cross member . There is a separate piece that you bolt to the chassis. I imagine this is for adjustability of the body to chassis.
-the hole configuration in the rear crossmember is different.
Old chassis note the welded tabs for the floor support and hole location that the hitch locator pins are made for:
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200501/d2177bc21815094afda794ac1b8f2b5b.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200501/19b4ad8ac2eff19e6159e0378a4f12c5.jpg)
New frame note difference in hole location in rear crossmember and no welded tabs( I'll try to find a pic of the support piece):
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200501/948a1841d2dfc30feec1a13ed0a21615.jpg)
Note the locating pins on the hitch setup
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200501/bc8826af17f70fc08b36e8a57ccf4aa3.jpg)
The aesthetics of this is not a big deal but the main issue is that the hitch mount i pulled from my old frame isn't compatible with the new frame as the mounting guide holes didn't line up.
So adam Welded a new support and cut into his frame. Thinking about either that route or modifying the hitch receiver pins somehow.
Shame it is already powdercoated and galvanized as will have to be grounded for welding a new bit in..
What would you do?
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Post by: DBrands on May 01, 2020, 02:54 PM
Those are some awfully large 'jack points' on the new frame...
Post by: binch on May 01, 2020, 06:27 PM
If I'm not mistaken the chassis' you got on that order were https://www.britpart.com/parts/chassis-and-body-components/chassis-complete/kvd500730hd
I'm rather surprized the body mounting tabs welded to the chassis though :o Did they include tabs with the chassis?????
Post by: grizzlychicken on May 02, 2020, 12:55 AM
Quote from: binch on May 01, 2020, 06:27 PMYes I think it is a britpart frame. Not sure who manufactures those for them. Is it marsland? Yup I was uppeised about the body mount tabs too. Yes the tabs do come with the frame.
If it were me......I would leave the frame galvanizing intact and weld some mounting feet onto the pegs that go into the old bumper. Since you aren't using the military bumperettes those feet can be bolted into the frame via the bolt holes on the chassis that are normally used for the inside bumperette mounts. That way you keep the strength and integrity of the chassis nice new finish. In fact....if the bumper hasn't been galvanized yet then once you've finish welding the feet on, and have the hold drilled out get the pumper done too ;-)
If I'm not mistaken the chassis' you got on that order were https://www.britpart.com/parts/chassis-and-body-components/chassis-complete/kvd500730hd
I'm rather surprized the body mounting tabs welded to the chassis though :o Did they include tabs with the chassis?????
I think I see where you're going with the hitch. I would prefer not to drill or weld on the finished chassis and want to get that planning sorted before I start to put it all back together.
So something like this (excuse the bad sketch)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200502/311826a8b27b898179860cb3325ceda0.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200502/21c4377df8e472b6e1c97d25b9a4dc58.jpg)
Something like this bad sketch might work. As long as it will hold up to the hitch forces
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Post by: binch on May 02, 2020, 10:30 PM
Post by: grizzlychicken on May 07, 2020, 12:24 PM
Ok so when I rebuilt the transfer case I chatted to the head honcho at Ashcroft and he recommended changing the output shaft of the transmission. The output shaft splines often get worn which is another eventual reason for loss of drive to your wheels. My spline wasn't to bad some minor rounding but it was all apart so now was the time to do it. With installing a new input gear in the transfer case this made sense so I ordered a shaft and the transmission rebuild kit. I also had a wobbly input shaft so I knew I at least had to replace the bearing there but decided on that shaft too as the splines for the clutch plate also had some wear.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200507/e9cc1e100c4d14d68b0c395e478a5abe.jpg)
The oils plug had some metal filings so think it was a good choice to do the r380 overhaul.
For(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200507/6da6b2bb8de28fd2e62db0894645ff6f.jpg)
First cover plate off and gears were looking good with little wear. The challenge with all of these is removing the collar that secures the housing on which is press fit. It is a bugger to remove!
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200507/64ff3447aa5e6004c4a0f157b755cdf7.jpg)
So got it apart on my workbench where it honestly stayed for a few months. I had trouble with removing the main shaft bearings as you can see in this pic and I needed to pretty up the casing. Now I was replacing the shaft but needed the gears to get to the next step. Unfortunately my shop press was sitting in a provincial parks workshop and they closed access so had to try to make an alternate puller. You can have a chuckle at my attempts :)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200507/f7f0e4ed689807d4b115277b2f037ca0.jpg)
This worked for pulling the lay shaft bearing.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200507/41cf86e14497c9d58dce102f4e1a1abc.jpg)
Had trouble with the main shaft. Tried it under the gear but the high tensile bolts that come with the puller weren't long enough and the threaded rod uprights and puller clamp bolts were too flexy. I had the threaded rod would closer to end of the shaft too and unsuccessful. This attempt had the pushing bolt too extended so it levered and flexed away from the shaft Centre.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200507/ca73db9ed8ea66988f93f0d7eadd7163.jpg)
I thought I was cleaver but this didn't work at all!
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200507/0131ce3e4d3a762ef78d788a138ab086.jpg)
Destroyed the bearing but this was the clear winner. Had to make the top bar out of square tubing and drill a hole for the shaft locator bolt. You can see the threaded rod was stripped at one point!
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Post by: grizzlychicken on May 07, 2020, 12:44 PM
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200507/84b47d208e30910bca042a2fdb0d52d2.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200507/aec8057371e5b36cabac7f80a1c2bb64.jpg)
I then had a go at making a transmission stand by welding some scrap angle together. I'm not re best welder but this worked.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200507/50cf4066269f580b1a8fdcb197ceaefc.jpg)
Here is the contraption while test fitting the outer casing and checking the end float. At this point all of the bearings including the needle rollers had been replaced and all the syncro rings were replaced and everything was pressed back to the right tolerance on the main shaft.
I cleaned out the casing with the parts washer then sandblasted it and polished it with a wire brush before painting it and curing the paint in the oven. I put this in another thread but it came out great!
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200507/16eb952b4f0f1a0a6cd3854f73a81a8d.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200507/c32ab09bc3a42212b26736d598e45807.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200507/537539dbc5f348ea919ffb9812ef96a7.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200507/78e7c0a5e3d20277da01a7a706b5b6f4.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200507/72e8ab89ff6729d907edadb4ab56d427.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200507/d1ddbaf0c043f702838e57aac2c8eb70.jpg)
Home built press for the final collar.
Super happy with how it turned out and now have a virtually new box!
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200507/a40516893b6468234f15fa2b3e45138c.jpg)
Next will be steering box blues......
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Post by: binch on May 07, 2020, 07:10 PM
Well done Shane!!!!
Post by: grizzlychicken on May 14, 2020, 01:06 PM
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200514/d588b55e08c1d594af21d0d54c58917d.jpg)
Pulled them off the truck and decided to get 2 new rear calipers
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200514/da41b1d2eadbe23639ae193f9f5a8e8e.jpg)
So had them powdercoated along with the front calipers and picked up a stainless piston set and new seal kit.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200514/22053bb1747a0695a424ce5503e11c44.jpg)
Spent some time rebuilding the calipers
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200514/4c382046c8831bed6c5850c98e19829b.jpg)
Unfortunately the powder coating had some overspray on the lip for the dust caps. So had to scrape it back to bear metal.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200514/eeb1c9f4df3aeb0c0aa1c59efb5bbfd3.jpg)
The next challenge was to install the dust caps without bending them! Lots of advice online about this but I ended up using a g clamp and flat piece of metal to get a square insert.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200514/8d728693d5ba4da9813870f051b000e2.jpg)
And just like that I have a new set of nice looking brake calipers that should outlast me!
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200514/c6db5ecba55c0a864d11ca28f803f2ad.jpg)
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Post by: binch on May 14, 2020, 09:49 PM
Post by: grizzlychicken on May 17, 2020, 10:31 AM
Quote from: binch on May 14, 2020, 09:49 PMSo the bolts that were powdercoated are mostly to split the caliper. I powdercoated them as I don't see myself splitting the caliper. There is a smaller bolt on the rear caliper near the brake pipe bleeders that I powdercoated too. To be honest I'm not sure if it's function. Perhaps a bleeder? I haven't used it when bleeding the brakes in the past. I figure if it ends up being neede to be functional I'll just change the bolt
what are the nuts for (on the caliper) that were painted too? ???
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Post by: grizzlychicken on May 17, 2020, 11:34 AM
So found that the disco at pick and pull had its steering box still so time for open heart surgery!
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200517/2ff78a7db014e39f32a974cd8aa4a146.jpg)
So the box I pulled had obviously been leaking so hoping I wasn't exchanging bad for bad!
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200517/a6da11147006c4d40de2f72e28c16943.jpg)
However as I cleaned it up it was obviously not corroded and much easier to pull down cleanly
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200517/14f329e7d8209f08368c1aca4953c297.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200517/676d017c026777d9fa47c83318345474.jpg)
I didn't have the specialized oversized Allen key type socket for the large recessed socket so found actually that a set of vice grips fit nicely in the points of the groove and by using a screwdriver between the jaws it camed out the jaws to allow it to lock in and be able to turn the oversized socket
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200517/ad405d19fd37efbed221391a18166d71.jpg)
So wanted to clean it up and paint but the internal bearings are supposed to be non serviceable. I removed the guts and sealed the unit by using thick plastic while holding it in place with the existing cir-clips which worked a treat!
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200517/c1c1c04dfe8338bcbfa28098528e2428.jpg)
So then into the home made sandblast cabinet made from an old dishwasher.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200517/43774a749c06b4b6dbf8d09db6b4f0d8.jpg)
The seals held up great so then parts washer:
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200517/ee10f8424f1ab9459fa592b58fcf422e.jpg)
Then etch prime:
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200517/3ee862fe3809631ca8cc132d1a68e9b9.jpg)
Paint with engine enamel
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200517/c7677f9e593f846f2f7992be5097453f.jpg)
Then the rebuild of the guts!
The output shaft is commonly corroded and the new shaft ha some seal lines but not nearly as bad as the original box shaft.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200517/8b512f1defc4a7c303c512a9dcbd6845.jpg)
So wet sanded the shaft with 1000 grit sandpaper and the seal surface cleaned up perfectly.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200517/3d4e9ae149c5e5f234e235fff6551668.jpg)
Then rebuilt the box with all new seals, setting the preloads with my hand scale:
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200517/4aa1ced1971dc3b9466c3832316bfbc5.jpg)
Happy with that and went on to reinstall the drop arm. Here is the defender droparm side by side with disco droparm.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200517/2ddc5590103074a742c0d9f626b23987.jpg)
And now pretty happy to have a rebuilt box!
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200517/13a700a495e9cb5d620f7cc64cc92016.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200517/9d7138911f25650ede3b08c7733417bd.jpg)
Fingers crossed it stays liquid tight!
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Post by: binch on May 18, 2020, 11:13 AM
I gotta ask.....did you grow up on a farm or in a logging camp, as a kid?
You are doing a bang up job with this tread Shane!
Post by: grizzlychicken on May 19, 2020, 09:29 PM
Quote from: binch on May 18, 2020, 11:13 AMHa thanks Bill. No farm or logging camp. I grew up in rural Australia in a town of 30,000. Always liked cars and tinkering though. Had a 76 volkswagon kombi van that I pulled the engine and trans down and had the trans rebuilt for a circumnavigation of Australia in '94 I think. I tinker with lots of stuff :)
Well done sir!!!! I hope it works well too!
I gotta ask.....did you grow up on a farm or in a logging camp, as a kid?
You are doing a bang up job with this tread Shane!
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Post by: binch on May 19, 2020, 09:57 PM
Post by: grizzlychicken on May 23, 2020, 12:08 AM
For the front diff the swivel housings has some good wear and this is part of the reason that there is some leakage here.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200520/1bedb34a7de1a856578f4d3ba7b6096b.jpg)
So I ordered 2 new swivel housing kits and while they were coming I decided to strip both differentials down and have the powdercoated
After getting these puppies back from the powdercoater it is always a good idea to power wash and scrub the inside. They sandblast these casings before powdercoating so I wanted to get rid of any residual particles. A toilet cleaning brush I picked up for $5 at the hardware store taped to a broom handle worked a great to clean out the shafts.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200520/2554645548c06822d85b1b33d188add7.jpg)
After inspecting the stub axels on the front I found they had some wear too so decided to do stub axel, new wheel and cv bearings and seals. It will be like a new axel :)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200520/d2eac8ce9f9629edb250f28bfb1011c4.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200520/24423cf1c9907390ad36b4d6e85c57ce.jpg)
So the new stub axels arrived and one side was perfect! The other side not so much. During manufacture of this Bearmach stub axel the threaded end was miscast and the wheel bearing nut wouldn't thread on. (https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200520/79ec26c5abfb6886d05fb2770b164fa0.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200520/8aa84dfb1f2eeebfc12a97d09e7a87ec.jpg)
Bearmach were really good about replacing the stub axel and It arrived within a week. My only issue was I had installed the bushing, bearing and seal. Fortunately I had another seal and when I talked to Bearmach they were confident I could reuse the bearing and bushing.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200520/c44187debfc35ec4200d0f9eff7043d1.jpg)
Ok let me tell you it is quite a challenge to remove the bushing and the bearing. For the bearing I ended up using a curved tire iron to carefully tap it out. Success!
For the bushing I used an angle grinder to cut a slot just below the bushing at 180 degrees to each other. Then heated the bushing by up and used a couple of screwdrivers to pry the bearing off.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200520/c76b9773f7c32540ca6d422a68d0367c.jpg)
Success again!
.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200520/29d81dc12cb656f698840f26a8535db1.jpg)
So got the front axel together now
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200523/7a43d598de4e9c5e3da3bc3758ec1d16.jpg)
Next onto the rear Salisbury!
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Post by: grizzlychicken on May 24, 2020, 11:49 PM
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200525/e357f56bb0adc8d35e9a83bc9c1b29c3.jpg)
Had a bolt shear off when I went to stake the wheel nut. Dam it!
So had to drill it out.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200525/e268b090e9e7cf6c6cf52438e421f0ad.jpg)
Then used an extraction tool to get it out.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200525/4770ccbb90b4caa25d9531ef5b588792.jpg)
At least it wasn't too stuck in there.
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Post by: grizzlychicken on May 25, 2020, 12:01 AM
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200525/9c8b9a06540ccb11f219c866d4e6142d.jpg)
So went about getting them all pressed in. It turns out that the grease they include with my vice worked a treat for install.
https://youtu.be/ijwl9-ZN83c (https://youtu.be/ijwl9-ZN83c)
I'm really happy with how the suspension component rebuilt went.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200525/d3f35633d5c326be052107c85f6810ef.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200525/d397d1a49e04a69d50c1b08084e8edf5.jpg)
They are all new and shiny!
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Post by: grizzlychicken on May 25, 2020, 12:06 AM
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200525/e25f771066ab07f0eef14fb4ffda60ee.jpg)
And here is it all installed on the front diff.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200525/b2e56a72571d71ff26f089f1e59b76e8.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200525/d14bc0b97d2feeef5a7832aa000c34fd.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200525/f7d2e4ef7f06310ac37e245fa135ca31.jpg)
It sure is pretty ;)
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Post by: binch on May 25, 2020, 05:28 AM
Post by: Red90 on May 25, 2020, 08:12 AM
Post by: grizzlychicken on May 25, 2020, 08:16 AM
Quote from: Red90 on May 25, 2020, 08:12 AMGood to know thanks John. They are just put there for the pic for now.
Just an FYI. With the dual rate springs, it is better to put the close coils facing up.
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Post by: grizzlychicken on May 25, 2020, 11:43 AM
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200525/f58033312b702db94258c22eafad317a.jpg)
What could possibly go wrong.......
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200525/b727e99adcaceed1ebe7b5f7cfa0deca.jpg)
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Post by: Matt H on May 26, 2020, 10:55 PM
I ran the Polly bush brand in the past on our old LR3 and the Mighty Range Rover and been disappointed. Went back to rubber in the end on the RRC, sold the LR3.
Post by: grizzlychicken on May 28, 2020, 08:27 PM
Quote from: Matt H on May 26, 2020, 10:55 PMSure thing Matt. Yes I was going to go with rubber but after trolling the forums these looked good so will keep you posted!
Can I ask that you let us know how you like those Superpro bushings when the Rover is released back into the wild please?
I ran the Polly bush brand in the past on our old LR3 and the Mighty Range Rover and been disappointed. Went back to rubber in the end on the RRC, sold the LR3.
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Post by: grizzlychicken on May 28, 2020, 08:45 PM
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200529/593619416b61591d13c51f666d786dfc.jpg)
Washed then wet sanded the chassis with 600grit. Then washed it down again with a lint free cloth and used the compressor to air dry it a bit. Will leave it for a few days to dry out then will clear coat.
Wetting down the floor helps keep any dust down.
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Post by: Matt H on May 28, 2020, 10:37 PM
Now I feel embarrassed to say I didn't even wash my chassis before I went ahead and welded up the rear cross member :-[
Post by: binch on May 28, 2020, 10:56 PM
Post by: grizzlychicken on May 29, 2020, 12:15 AM
Quote from: Matt H on May 28, 2020, 10:37 PMHa! It's just to give the clear coat something to stick too. Not sure how it will turn out as it's my first attempt to clearcoat over powdercoat. No kudos until the clear coat's done!
Wow, a 600 grit wet sanded chassis! Talk about the extra mile. You certainly are putting a lot of effort into this rebuild. Nice job.
Now I feel embarrassed to say I didn't even wash my chassis before I went ahead and welded up the rear cross member :-[
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Post by: grizzlychicken on May 29, 2020, 11:26 PM
With my limited painting experience it was kind of tricky to spray due to all the brackets, corners and edges and to be honest I wasn't sure how it would turn out during clear coating as it was drying at different rates. I must say the paint booth worked a great and I didn't see any dust specs on the paint which is good news moving forward. Because I didn't file down all the galv imperfections there are spikes here and there and some uneven surfaces from the galv process but all that is going to be covered by the body anyway.
So here is the finish under lights:
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200530/b19e6bf2b9d66bc481461bc577ed8737.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200530/03645b32faa7c7b922c1abe738eda5d7.jpg)
Again super happy with it. I know chassis paint/finish combos are endless but in the end I wanted the shine more than the Matt finish as it matches all the powder-coated parts way better. Here is a pic of the new chassis clear, the powdercoated gloss and the powder coated Matt finishes:
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200530/1ce673445b28c856738b8d9d5fa6e694.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200530/345cfb7a4965a4669786d008d7218cf9.jpg)
Next it's on to putting a rolling chassis together! I am pumped that the chassis prep is now done! Oh except for the chassis wax.........should I thread the wiring loom first then wax or wax first then thread......
Onto the axels!
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Post by: binch on May 30, 2020, 10:15 AM
Post by: Matt H on May 30, 2020, 01:39 PM
I agree with Bill, once galvanized you shouldn't really need any other treatments like waxoil etc. They make a horrid mess and tend to attract dirt anyway. It's impossible to effectively clean inside a chassis once in the field anyway and most rust from the inside out. I think you have already done what you can to future proof the chassis.
Turned out nice
Post by: grizzlychicken on June 01, 2020, 12:07 AM
I managed to work on the front end and attach suspension and steering parts to the chassis. It was quite satisfying. I find it is pretty important to torque things as you go so as not to forget anything!
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200601/55a97761314e93a2104f7d766e49ac91.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200601/72016229d7fdb70e173504d97f52be41.jpg)
I decided to go with ranch shocks that are adjustable so I can turn the ride a bit depending on what I'm using it for.
I also upgraded the shock bushings to the super pro bushings.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200601/2b2b32c7284e1b8876a1005e71fad2ee.jpg)
I'm keeping the rubber bushings in case I don't like the ride with the super pros.
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Post by: Matt H on June 01, 2020, 01:45 AM
Post by: grizzlychicken on June 01, 2020, 04:13 PM
Quote from: Matt H on June 01, 2020, 01:45 AMThanks Matt. Great advice! I was planning to retorque when I drop it down but if my pea brain forgets to check a fixing at least it was torqued properly at this stage :)
You may want to back off the suspension bushing bolts and leave them loose for now. Then torque the suspension bolts to spec with the fully assembled vehicle, total weight, sitting on its tyres at ride height. Once torqued I try to remember to witness mark everything with a paint pen. Then you can tell at a glance if stuff has shifted.
I feel like I have a new 10,000 piece puzzle that has some ratty pieces that don't quite fit and some newer pieces. And like any second hand puzzle there are always pieces missing. Not necessarily lost but put in it's special place to be deactivated once you had to go by the new piece ;)
And it's hard to put those ratty looking pieces back next to the new pieces! I keep going to fastenal to get more new shiny bits!
I started with the cardboard truck to label fasteners but soon realized I would need too many sheets:
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200601/0f94f728ba63c90b18427d1d2ecbc382.jpg)
I then went to zip lock bags and labeled as I went. Perhaps didn't label well enough.........
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200601/c54a1e8ec45b9d2b0cd197922808f247.jpg)
At least the YRM order is labeled so I can look back.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200601/9e72745a561167f325c748d0743724fb.jpg)
I tell you what though this site is awesome for helping guide the puzzle:
https://www.lrworkshop.com/diagrams
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Post by: grizzlychicken on June 01, 2020, 06:22 PM
Post by: Matt H on June 02, 2020, 12:47 PM
The reason being if you torque them now, once you get it all back together and sitting at ride height the chassis will sit much lower in relation to the axles (due to the increased sprung weight of the body, engine etc.) thus putting permanent torque through the bushes.
If you torque them fully loaded at ride height they will sit in a more neutral position, last far longer and not give weird handling as the suspension flexes.
Clear as mud?
Good luck with your puzzle! That's a lot of bits and pieces.
Post by: grizzlychicken on June 05, 2020, 12:52 AM
Salisbury diff blues.
So I have started setting up the rear diff! I am going to be asking advice on this one for sure! I am following the manual I found online for the setup which looks pretty standard:
http://site.lrch.nl/sites/default/files/Differentieel%20Salisbury.pdf
After inspecting the pinion bearings and cones they look in good condition so I am not changing them out. I did install the pinion and rechecked the pinion height. I did have a bit of backlash in the rear diff so wanted to make sure the pinion height wasn't a reason.
The manual talks about a a standard height block that is 30.93mm. So the low point on the bearing race support to the pinion head should be that exact distance averaged side to side. I did t have the block or the special gauge so improvised with a dial gauge and calipers
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200605/7935bedb4b584d468915bcd51b241ce4.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200605/9571246b4eab3cef61dfcc000a635f93.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200605/7875330f61696072ff621adb4b25b187.jpg)
Since you have to carefully move the assembly back and fourth I measured multiple times to get a good sense of the pinion height which looked good.
So on the the center diff. I decided to upgrade the center diff to a LSD trutrac diff center.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200605/72e1020f97c796c863ec3b6732a1c85c.jpg)
So installed the crown wheel as per the manual. The manual talks about making marks and lining the crown wheel up to the mark but with then new center I don't think it matters.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200605/3da5a372634b48ea925dd42e8d74134b.jpg)
So here comes the confusing part for me. The manual talks about installing the carrier bearings without the shims and from what I understand without the pinion. Then it talks about first checking if there is runout on the crownwheel with a dial gauge.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200605/5cdcafe589d013cecbddab987a19c746.jpg)
From there it then talks about levering the diff assembly to the right then left and measure in the dial gauge the displacement.
Has anyone done this process? For me without the shims installed the diff would lock when rotated. I don't think there is enough lateral pressure on the bearings and the sort shaft bearing is shifting and locking with rotation
https://youtu.be/X_Bf7_JJWDM (https://youtu.be/X_Bf7_JJWDM)
https://youtu.be/jWiQGH7kMwk (https://youtu.be/jWiQGH7kMwk)
So I think I'll pull the bearings on both diffs, install the same shims that were in the old diff on the new diff and see if that solves it.
These Salisbury diffs weren't designed very well for ease of shimming and changing the lateral shims easily. I have to use a bearing puller each time I want to changes shims making sure I don't destroy the bearing cone. Certainly not a very user friendly way to change shims. And since it needs some preload you also need a diff spreader to install the shimmed assembly. (I'm building one of these.) tricky to that the least....
Or maybe it's my poor mechanical or manual reading skills........
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Post by: Red90 on June 05, 2020, 06:42 AM
Do you have any friends around with experience setting up Dana diffs? It is a Dana 60. They are very common. There are also a ton of videos and writeups on the net that may help.
To the specific points. On pinion height, you are best to wait for the contact pattern and decide then. Generally though, if you are using a used R&P, you do not want to change pinion height as it has worn in at the previous height. On the carrier bearings, you seem to be mixing up two instructions. One is to check runout. The following and separate procedure is to measure the total thickness of shims needed. Many people don't do it that way, because it is hard to measure well (without experience) and you end up being wrong. Typically people use setup bearings that do not need to be pressed on to figure out shims. That way, you can quickly figure out shims to set backlash where you want and then add 5 thou for the preload. Some people simply look at how hard it is to seat the assembly to set preload.
Post by: grizzlychicken on June 05, 2020, 07:01 AM
Quote from: Red90 on June 05, 2020, 06:42 AMAh the setup bearings make total sense. So could you somehow modify the old bearing using say emery paper (yes slow I know!)/ Dremel or can you order a specific bearing for setup somewhere at reasonable cost?
This should make you hate Dana diffs for a long time and dream of working on ones with carrier bearing adjusters. Whoever thought it was a good idea to put the shims between the pressed on bearings and the carrier was evil.
Do you have any friends around with experience setting up Dana diffs? It is a Dana 60. They are very common. There are also a ton of videos and writeups on the net that may help.
To the specific points. On pinion height, you are best to wait for the contact pattern and decide then. Generally though, if you are using a used R&P, you do not want to change pinion height as it has worn in at the previous height. On the carrier bearings, you seem to be mixing up two instructions. One is to check runout. The following and separate procedure is to measure the total thickness of shims needed. Many people don't do it that way, because it is hard to measure well (without experience) and you end up being wrong. Typically people use setup bearings that do not need to be pressed on to figure out shims. That way, you can quickly figure out shims to set backlash where you want and then add 5 thou for the preload. Some people simply look at how hard it is to seat the assembly to set preload.
Unfortunately I don't know anyone who has set up this kind of diff :(
For the carrier assembly I did try to check the runout but the carrier assembly locks when you go to rotate it because I believe it isn't shimmed. I am assuming the shims will be similar between the old diff carrier and the new LSD carrier but will still need to measure that in step 2.
I think I got a bit excited when I installed the bearings without any shims.
Just overall not a very intuitive process!
Oh and the carrier is a heavy sucker. Almost got my fingers crunched a few times. It is easy to get your fingers caught in the spline shaft holes!
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Post by: Red90 on June 05, 2020, 09:28 AM
Quote from: grizzlychicken on June 05, 2020, 07:01 AM
Ah the setup bearings make total sense. So could you somehow modify the old bearing using say emery paper (yes slow I know!)/ Dremel or can you order a specific bearing for setup somewhere at reasonable cost?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Rxm9faJWHzQ
Google Dana 60 setup and you will find dozens of writeups and videos. Sometimes it helps to see how others do it.
Post by: Matt H on June 05, 2020, 11:33 AM
I use the previous shim packs as a starting point and go from there. Especially, as John said, with a used gear set you should be aiming to replicate as close as possible the original gear pattern.
Gear set up is a fairly organic process and not one that lends itself easily to following a technical manual. However, once you understand how things are interrelated and how to move the gear pattern around as desired it becomes much less of a trial and error situation.
Post by: grizzlychicken on June 05, 2020, 01:06 PM
Quote from: grizzlychicken on June 05, 2020, 07:01 AMFantastic thanks John! Just what I needed. I have been googling Salisbury Land Rover diff and not a lot comes up so really helpful. Now to pull the bearings without damaging them!Quote from: Red90 on June 05, 2020, 06:42 AMAh the setup bearings make total sense. So could you somehow modify the old bearing using say emery paper (yes slow I know!)/ Dremel or can you order a specific bearing for setup somewhere at reasonable cost?
This should make you hate Dana diffs for a long time and dream of working on ones with carrier bearing adjusters. Whoever thought it was a good idea to put the shims between the pressed on bearings and the carrier was evil.
Do you have any friends around with experience setting up Dana diffs? It is a Dana 60. They are very common. There are also a ton of videos and writeups on the net that may help.
To the specific points. On pinion height, you are best to wait for the contact pattern and decide then. Generally though, if you are using a used R&P, you do not want to change pinion height as it has worn in at the previous height. On the carrier bearings, you seem to be mixing up two instructions. One is to check runout. The following and separate procedure is to measure the total thickness of shims needed. Many people don't do it that way, because it is hard to measure well (without experience) and you end up being wrong. Typically people use setup bearings that do not need to be pressed on to figure out shims. That way, you can quickly figure out shims to set backlash where you want and then add 5 thou for the preload. Some people simply look at how hard it is to seat the assembly to set preload.
Unfortunately I don't know anyone who has set up this kind of diff :(
For the carrier assembly I did try to check the runout but the carrier assembly locks when you go to rotate it because I believe it isn't shimmed. I am assuming the shims will be similar between the old diff carrier and the new LSD carrier but will still need to measure that in step 2.
I think I got a bit excited when I installed the bearings without any shims.
Just overall not a very intuitive process!
Oh and the carrier is a heavy sucker. Almost got my fingers crunched a few times. It is easy to get your fingers caught in the spline shaft holes!
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Post by: grizzlychicken on June 05, 2020, 01:10 PM
Quote from: Matt H on June 05, 2020, 11:33 AMThanks Matt,
Buy new bearings, dremel out the old ones for a slip fit to set up shim thickness.
I use the previous shim packs as a starting point and go from there. Especially, as John said, with a used gear set you should be aiming to replicate as close as possible the original gear pattern.
Gear set up is a fairly organic process and not one that lends itself easily to following an technical manual. However, once you understand how things are interrelated and how to move the gear pattern around as desired it becomes much less of a trial and error situation.
Great advice. I think now with making a set of setup bearings it will be way easier to shim things up properly and get the proper tooth pattern.
I think I'm going to owe you and John a pint
sometime for all your advice! Perhaps a physical distancing pint in the workshop ;)Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Post by: Matt H on June 05, 2020, 01:33 PM
Post by: grizzlychicken on June 07, 2020, 12:28 AM
Quote from: Matt H on June 05, 2020, 01:33 PMWell so far the beast isn't to pretty :). Certainly mechanically sound (I hope!). The finish paint and bodywork will be my weakness!
No worries. Looking forward to seeing this beast in the flesh, so to speak.
Today I worked on removing all the diff carrier bearings both from the old diff center and from the bearings I pressed into the new diff center.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200607/66e3a4f1c23568b4b929fe8f02eb3eb4.jpg)
Pretty happy they all came off I'd like to say without a struggle but I'd be lying!
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200607/9df3c2556c8676f0578025887fc462d2.jpg)
So went on to start to make the dummy bearings I need from the old bearings to get the thing shimmed up!
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200607/8840422faf981a06ebfa7f22bc9143c5.jpg)
It turns out that the circular sanding wheel doesn't really fit inside this size bearing inner race so had to trim it down by 3/8 all round and it at least fits into the center now.
Trying not to keep the neighbors up with the drilling noise so will finish the inner race sanding in the morning and hopefully will shim it all up.
Oh and realize I probably will need a case spreader for this process so made a spreading tool from some scrap metal I raided from the local welding shops scrap bin and some threaded rod I had in my workshop.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200607/382778d676944df9a9e8d740aeba0fd2.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200607/7757ab69ae23816d3cf642cc24dd0eb4.jpg)
Pretty happy with how it turned out but the welds aren't that pretty (I'm not really a welder) so hope it holds up.
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Post by: grizzlychicken on June 07, 2020, 09:29 PM
Anyway it's done now!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CVbNqvp4Uoc&feature=share (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CVbNqvp4Uoc&feature=share)
Onto the next step of shimming. Going to start with the previous shim sizing and check the tooth pattern. Mine measured in at .046" each side. Just have to figure out if the bearing preload is right as well as the tooth pattern.
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Post by: grizzlychicken on June 10, 2020, 12:34 PM
I am having a tough time with the new diff center install. As I mentioned I am replacing my old diff center with an Eaton Truetrac LSD. The carrier looks very slick out of the box.
However I went to install it with the shim spacing of the old diff and with the setup bearings I made and I am having significant issues with the trutrac binding on the casing. It is getting hung up on a prominence at the base of the bearing seat.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200610/2bc866320971e320c62917657b02b363.jpg)
https://youtu.be/ftaf6Svt1nc (https://youtu.be/ftaf6Svt1nc)
As it turns out there at some significant differences between the carriers. The main difference is the clearance from the crownwheel side bearing seat on the diff carrier and the carrier housing. There is about a 1/4" difference between the two:
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200610/9cd717372c15f3e08c6827ed32d53c9b.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200610/b7595b9d18182f967d2e4f343fbfc2a1.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200610/1b246efaed7448244f02812ba7e02e74.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200610/c35af26dcd0600bc81c9764659b4191e.jpg)
So the diff carrier is binding against the small knob on the diff housing.
I thought I might have ordered the wrong carrier but double checked and it is what Ashcroft uses and the numbers match.
https://www.ashcroft-transmissions.co.uk/limited-slip-differentials/salisbury-truetrac.html
I measured the distance between the crown-wheel seat and that side bearing seat and they are similar between the 2 diffs. Overall the truetrac is taller by about .15" which shouldn't matter. So I can't shim the diff away from the binding point.
I think my only option is to modify the diff case by filing/ flap wheeling down the prominence on the case to allow for the diff carrier housing clearance.
Has anyone done this or heard of an issue with this in the past? Once I have case clearance I'll b able to shim it appropriately.
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Post by: binch on June 10, 2020, 09:24 PM
Post by: grizzlychicken on June 11, 2020, 12:49 AM
Quote from: binch on June 10, 2020, 09:24 PMOk thanks Bill. I would be interested to hear how that went! I don't think that little nub has a purpose so think that's where I'll start anyway.
Lovejugs installed one into Emad's 110 rearend a couple years back
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Post by: Matt H on June 11, 2020, 12:29 PM
Post by: grizzlychicken on June 11, 2020, 12:42 PM
Quote from: Matt H on June 11, 2020, 12:29 PMOn my way to do that now thanks Matt!
Grind it flush. You often find discrepancies in the castings of a differential case. Normally a non issue but does tend to complicate matters when fitting non factory parts such as aftermarket carriers/lockers etc. As long as you have the correct carrier for for the gearset ratio it's all good.
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Post by: grizzlychicken on June 11, 2020, 11:55 PM
Had a great day in the shop working away to some good beats :)
First I taped off the pinion and ground down the nub using a shopvac as air extraction to minimalize metal shards. Worked great to keep everything clean.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200612/f3cabc106101a3a2fcf760b3acdff156.jpg)
Grinding the nub solved all my clearance issues yahoo!
So then went back and decided to measure the amount of case displacement my diff spreader would give. With my diff carrier and bearing assembly sliding in when fully displaced it gives me an idea of the preload on the carrier bearings. I estimate about a .005" clearance to get the center in (using a feeler gauge behind the bearing race before releasing the case spreader) and measured the case deflection at .01" which gives me a preload of about a .005" shim width which is about right.
[youtube] https://youtu.be/KqhuPIANWs4 [youtube]
Happy that I have a good carrier preload went on to measure the crownwheel backlash. The manual says it should be 0.006-0.011". So mine was initially slightly too much play at 0.012":
[youtube] https://youtu.be/Y90Nk_n1UGQ [youtube]
So added a shim to the crown-wheel side .001" from the other side and came in on tolerance.
Then with sims all set I installed the new bearings and rechecked the backlash and was spot on at .008" with a good tooth pattern.
[youtube] https://youtu.be/njv_9QbNGZY [YouTube]
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200612/d500c7f9210cb63679a1a3437ae2a55c.jpg)
All set up and torqued down! I must say don't underestimate the value of feel. The overall assembly feels smooth and tight and minimal play. It feels right. (Scientific I know!)
Now I can get to reassembling the rest of the axel and into a rolling chassis.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200612/bc1508c77e6f21c4bfab317b2499f2a7.jpg)
Happy with my first diff setup attempt. Next chapter is getting this assembly back together and onto a rolling chassis........ stay tuned!
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Post by: binch on June 12, 2020, 08:55 PM
Post by: grizzlychicken on June 16, 2020, 10:46 PM
It is interesting finding chassis differences between the new chassis and the original as I roll forward. I mentioned the rear cross member already and on the weekend I started to install the wishbone mounting brackets. The original chassis has raised spacers welded direct to the chassis but the new chassis has much thicker mount points.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200617/bd42b4f7f0d57fc80f24131a76880414.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200617/75f94e101fefa847df6a43ff347584f9.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200617/48e178d5a47223410c6b0687cf05423f.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200617/f479031d03601b4ce86c4b06aaaa41dd.jpg)
The other kicker is the spacers on the old chassis are different front back. So short story none of the new fasteners I sourced fit :(
So just bolted it in the end with a single washer between the bracket and the chassis as wasn't sure if the wishbone assembly could suck up the 1/2" difference in the bracket position.
Think it should work fine as it all lined up with the diff. So now I have a rolling chassis!
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200617/cee110c023cfd007bbef437851224198.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200617/831da275c055602f4325ccded620c51c.jpg)
Without shocks yet but nice to have less bits spread around the garage! Wheels and diffs take up a bunch of room!
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Post by: binch on June 16, 2020, 10:58 PM
Post by: grizzlychicken on June 16, 2020, 11:14 PM
I forgot to mention the fascinating fastener use on the defender. One minute you are using an M8 metric fastener, then you go to the suspension and figure out the ball joint cross bolts on the wishbone are 1/2"-20...... I suppose they just used what was available at the local hardware store! Nice to have a thread pitch gauge handy...
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Post by: binch on June 17, 2020, 05:22 AM
Post by: Matt H on June 17, 2020, 06:18 AM
Post by: Red90 on June 17, 2020, 07:01 AM
So keeping a stock of UNF and metric coarse usually covers your needs. This is a good thing, because finding metric fine locally is not easy.
Post by: grizzlychicken on June 24, 2020, 12:06 AM
What aluminum are the masse using for panel repair and replacement? Here is what I have found:
Original Land Rover aluminum was brimabright or later as 5251 aluminum which is what I believe my defender probably used.
http://funrover.com/tips-guides/just-what-exactly-are-land-rover-bodies-made-from/
I connected with YRM metal solutions which I'll be ordering some material from and they are using 1050 aluminum.
Different vehicle manufacturers use different aluminums and 2 that were mentioned a bunch when I was researching were 5022 and 6022
http://alcoainnovation.ca/fr/pdf/20121027_Aluminum_use_in_Auto_for_release.pdf
https://aluminiuminsider.com/aluminium-alloys-automotive-industry-handy-guide/
https://uacj-automobile.com/types_and_applications.html
Unfortunately trying to source any of these in southern Alberta is almost impossible. The local sheet metal supply could get 1100 but was $1000 per sheet! Due to the aluminum purity.
They could source the 6022 but with a $300 shipping charge but not bad per sheet at around $100.
The local shop has plenty of 5052 sheet aluminum which is pretty common but not common for automotive panels. He also I recommended 6061 which has better strength and still good formability about the same price.
What have the masses used? I was thinking the 6022 would be ideal but at a premium price with the shipping and it is a month out. My second choice, but likely the logical choice would probably be the 6061. The cheapest alternative may just be fine with the 5052.
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Post by: ugly_90 on June 24, 2020, 12:34 AM
A scrapyard will be much more accommodating in pricing for you. Better still if you know of a good metal bin before it hits the yard. There's a few spots around that do aluminum welding, and others that do aluminum signs, especially large highway signs, which you should find to be quite thick. If the lettering was wrong or phone number changed on the sign, its discarded and waiting for you..
The two front floor plates should be forgiving if you use less of a gauge, just as long as it doesn't bend under your heel. For the aluminum body, it has been found available as scrap, one of the fellows here has salvaged body aluminum from an old scrapped holiday trailer, and found the thickness to be the same.
I think the saying goes in gold mining that " gold is where you find it ", perhaps meaning it's easy to find more gold near past gold claims. The same with recycling scrap material.
Post by: binch on June 24, 2020, 04:18 PM
Post by: mike.heathcote on June 25, 2020, 09:51 AM
A couple years ago I got some front wings off him for Dad's 110. The panels were new, unprimed - he might still have a couple other panels about, too.
Post by: ugly_90 on June 25, 2020, 10:26 AM
The complex bends in a side fender or wing are better to be replaced with new or used. Door skins are affordable as aftermarket as well. Any of these Britpart or YRM specific parts could likely await a seacan order to keep costs down too.
Post by: grizzlychicken on June 25, 2020, 11:11 AM
My rear quarry panel skin is in rough shape so debating on whether to replace that and as you say you can get panels prefabed from the uk but it is not super cheap. The best pricing I found was from lrparts.net and just for the 2 rear skins with shipping it is £500 so $1000 and there will be duty on top of that.
So the material cost for both rear skins in 18 gauge if I bought the 6061 and formed them myself would be $100 but like you say there is one complex radius bend.
Or I live with the current panel and bodywork and bondo it which is possible.
The front 1/4 panel I need I would just replace with a premade unit as the curves are more complex and the panel is actually relatively cheap at £250 delivered so $500.
Otherwise I'm not sure of a source of second hand panels in Alberta. Anyone have spares?
Mike I'll try ivor. Is he part of the club?
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Post by: grizzlychicken on June 30, 2020, 07:59 PM
The TD5 I have was pretty oil and dirty. There have been multiple oil leaks in its life. So first job was to clean things up.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200701/6e7d971641d1a67c5ee61a30806d722c.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200701/987cfb0bd754da62a78756442f4d945a.jpg)
If you can't take the engine to the parts washer, bring the parts washer to the engine!
https://youtu.be/6IE4t0Estd4
Degreased and then after attacking it with a brass wheel.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200701/f14bfe4b3e8cd64d66becbd034b4cead.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200701/6ab7e821ae2e2d368de526a3c0b81ca3.jpg)
Then painted up the block.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200701/89348e4e143189b54ae077eb1bc83505.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200701/bc3ff882148896d22c5afc75882edb1f.jpg)
And cleans up nicely!
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200701/54329b39722ea0512bb8d1a6eb228f9c.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200701/467a95f31619814958e18e8733414df5.jpg)
Now there was a leak in the flywheel side seal so replaced that but the sump seal didn't appear great and it looked like some of the leak was coming from there so decided to replace that. Easy way was to flip the engine over. Love this engine stand!
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200701/256cc977df085e70079eacc5112d5227.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200701/2d773a4ec7e73ad4eb5b7252f4615d2d.jpg)
Cleaned up the block face and the sump face with some scotch brite pads.
Then inspected the gasket and as suspected it was compressed and had multiple cracks in it:
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200701/3dd48d266b71455a569823b6d4c47301.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200701/c13eceddf1715792a91df35005ea34de.jpg)
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Post by: grizzlychicken on June 30, 2020, 08:04 PM
After a bunch of scraping and scotchbrite/brass brush it turned out great and installed a new rocker cover gasket
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200701/f315c14b2916b853d77bfc46020b2c9c.jpg)
I think that should solve most of the oil seepage issues :)
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Post by: grizzlychicken on June 30, 2020, 08:45 PM
First I am upgrading the exhaust manifold. Most off you all know that the td5 manifold wasn't the best design. The webs between each exhaust port on the manifold tend to retain heat and are prone to warpage and doesn't clear exhaust gasses very well.
Here is a side by side of both manifolds:
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200701/6d508eb55376953777f407e610822b83.jpg)
The original engine studs are also quite short and can break off with heat. The new manifold comes with longer stud an spacers to absorb some of the heat expansion of the manifold.
Th was (https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200701/06c56798560475327148d45f6873a0ca.jpg)
So I decided to get the manifold ceramic coated which also is supposed to help with directing heat better through the turbo and exhaust. It also looks slick and will help stop it rusting.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200701/78cad0284f79418aadb0eb215451df98.jpg)
And yes as you can see I decided to go with a variable vein turbo from alisport/turbo technik. As you can see I decided to pull it apart and have the snail part ceramic coated too. Again for both directing heat and for corrosion and looks :)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200701/584c7756f9cd71018758c88e27de44ee.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200701/aec85f5431bbe4961ad631dba5cb882b.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200701/05e213ad555b9eaa05e3845a870eacf4.jpg)
It is pretty cool to see how the variable rate turbo engineering works:
https://youtu.be/ikUi_Es4Clw
Post by: Red90 on June 30, 2020, 09:07 PM
Post by: grizzlychicken on June 30, 2020, 09:11 PM
Quote from: Red90 on June 30, 2020, 09:07 PMHa yup I feel like man overboard during most of this project. Learning lots and fell like I'm bumbling about most of the time :) 80% of the time is looking for that bolt I know I put somewhere safe!
You are officially going completely overboard. ;D
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Post by: Matt H on July 01, 2020, 02:24 PM
Post by: binch on July 01, 2020, 11:44 PM
3 thumbs up!
Post by: grizzlychicken on July 02, 2020, 02:13 AM
Ok feels like big progress when you put the drivetrain together. Engine is in!
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200702/3f8de876483bacf49d0df8bd212b3860.jpg)
Then installed the new flywheel and clutch assembly:
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200702/8895c666b89d5dbfcaed82f198096cf3.jpg)
Changed out the thrust bearing to the heavy duty version.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200702/30c4b30fd6afb9689a6991800747dc35.jpg)
Put the transmission/ transfer case assembly together for install
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200702/fb297a242e88885d191dfeaac3538fe3.jpg)
And end result is satisfying!
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200702/0cc3fb97ff91df5fa8d5f20c53a938a0.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200702/5d1e0baff70c6aa0e6982835179db2b7.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200702/ee1c38265e7732168d5b7829f6aae535.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200702/0578b577d952ce9b9facd504dbf0dc42.jpg)
Now to install all the fixings. Electrical, fuel lines and tank, and bulkhead next. Trying to approach it in systems. Have to figure out where all these little brackets and clips go and which way all the bits wrap around one another.
Still a lot of work to do. Let me know if anyone is bored and wants to come swing a wrench in Canmore in a covid free way ;)
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Post by: binch on July 02, 2020, 05:33 AM
Looking very good!!!!
Post by: grizzlychicken on July 02, 2020, 09:25 AM
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200702/7c29ce9a694485c55a10912d903d55ce.jpg)
How important are the silicon beads to prevent oil seepage? I think I have a pretty good seal but now is the time if I want to add that extra layer. I'm pretty sure I can do I with the trans in place. Thoughts?
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Post by: DBrands on July 02, 2020, 09:37 AM
Quote from: grizzlychicken on July 02, 2020, 09:25 AM
Ok my mechanic friends! So I am looking back through the manual (as well as forward!) and I have a question about the sump gasket install. When I installed mine it seems to seal up nicely with no gaps etc. when looking at the manual it says to put a couple of beads of silicon in a few places.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200702/7c29ce9a694485c55a10912d903d55ce.jpg)
How important are the silicon beads to prevent oil seepage? I think I have a pretty good seal but now is the time if I want to add that extra layer. I'm pretty sure I can do I with the trans in place. Thoughts?
I have very little experience with a TD5, but both of those locations appear to be where the oil pan gasket contacts another gasket, correct? That has the potential to be a leak point if the intersecting seal "shrinks" away from the oil pan gasket. If you didn't change either of those gaskets the likelihood of a gap occurring is much lower (as long as there wasn't a gap apparent when you replaced the pan gasket). Might be worthwhile to do it as a precaution seeing how much work you've been doing to re-fresh...
Check the UK forums to see how often people talk about it... might give you an idea of how likely it is to leak.
Post by: Matt H on July 02, 2020, 09:54 AM
Post by: grizzlychicken on July 02, 2020, 01:57 PM
Quote from: Matt H on July 02, 2020, 09:54 AMAwesome thanks Matt. Pretty much what I thought. Just when you think your moving ahead and it looks pretty you tear it apart again :)
100% you need to add the sealer in the locations shown. Very common among all manufacturers. You don't need much, but you do need it.
Looks like it is just applied to the engine block side of the gasket on the rear oilseal and the block face near the front. It doesn't look like they are recommending to do the sump side between the gasket and the sump.
Well off to work again!
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Post by: grizzlychicken on July 03, 2020, 10:34 AM
Biggest concern was to line up the locating holes on the crank seal with the sump gasket. Think I hit it well though as it is sitting right and the bolt pressure is all good :)
Now I have the drivetrain installed!
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Post by: grizzlychicken on July 03, 2020, 01:44 PM
My thoughts in order were:
-Exhaust system including mounts and gaskets
-break system- lines and abs sensors(part 2 will be break controller after bulkhead install)
-fuel system - tank, filter, fuel lines and associated clips
-electrical looms - at least the frame rail loom at this point
-then bulkhead paint and install
Think that is a good way to tackle it. Once the bulkhead is in there is quite a bit of electrical to tackle which I think I should do first.
Would you completely paint and clear coat the bulkhead before installing it or would you save the final coats to do in situ?
Once I have the bulkhead, the b/c post and frame rail and then seat box installed I think I can button most of the systems up before dong the interior.
Oh still a bunch of work ahead.....
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Post by: Matt H on July 04, 2020, 09:50 AM
It will make for a heavy piece of bodywork to lift into place but with an engine picker it's no problem.
I can be done either way but I like to make things as easy as I can.
Post by: ugly_90 on July 04, 2020, 10:57 AM
As far as painting and clearcoating the bulkhead, there is probably half of it that can be seen without lifting the hood or crawling under once the vehicle is complete. I used truck bed coating for the hidden parts before assembly, but there's probably a range of coatings that would work, particularly on galvanized.
it's usually cheaper to paint individual parts and assemble, rather than a big paint job in the end. Often the less work you farm out the better on small parts. The money spent on a compressor and cabinet blaster evaporates quite quickly when spent on outside labour.
Post by: binch on July 04, 2020, 08:22 PM
Great job so far!!!
Post by: grizzlychicken on July 04, 2020, 08:29 PM
and dash components/ heater etc.
So think painting it makes sense before that.
Started on the bulkhead today. Lots of work on cleaning up the galv and rethreading and tapping holes and of course scotchbrighting the surface to give the paint a surface to stick too. Still have to seal it too with pantable caulking. Will follow that caulking guide you can finds online.
Here is my bulkhead working setup:
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200705/321bc5dc66a040eea7870f5d5f61bb05.jpg)
Lots more hours to go on this one.
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Post by: grizzlychicken on July 04, 2020, 10:14 PM
http://www.landroverweb.com/Pdf-files/Manuals/Land_Rover_Defender_Water_Ingress_Manual.pdf
Oh one issue with the galv is that it filled in the vent screen holes in places so I either replace it or perhaps wire brush it, but I think that the galv will be too strong for just a wire brush, or drill the individual holes maybe.........
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Post by: grizzlychicken on July 05, 2020, 09:16 AM
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200705/d42ea9acbb4cd067d6ae4667696bc520.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200705/e674e33e3e0cb37de07b08bf5de83cf2.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200705/0cb3c947dae45d616792ee06d4fa44de.jpg)
This stuff is super sticky! Gloves for sure!
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200705/8f7fc0f5f944b5e33af9e48b6c832fe0.jpg)
Think I hit all the seams. What seams do you guys normally have issues with?
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Post by: binch on July 05, 2020, 05:38 PM
Post by: grizzlychicken on July 07, 2020, 11:41 PM
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200708/d106519ff0a3e0fe0641a099c38a0bdc.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200708/ed9856e271b595007f2ad82729e82a19.jpg)
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Post by: grizzlychicken on July 13, 2020, 12:21 AM
In the mean time my webasto coolant heater wasn't working properly. I had taken it to the webasto dealer in Calgary and they tested it and told me to get a new one. The issue was it was dropping to below 8v in start up. To me that was a short somewhere that was pulling the voltage down and causing a low voltage error. Webastos go into error shut down if the supply voltage drops too low, I think below 9v. The dealer recommended a new brain so I did that and had the same error.
So I checked the resistance in the glow plug and it read pretty much an open circuit. Time for some webasto open heart surgery!
Here is my bench testing setup
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200713/0648db3e94274812f64153f303ca9215.jpg)
A few red flags. I have the webasto testing software and was getting the same error code the dealer got. There was an obvious voltage drop and the wires got super hot when the glow plug operation started.
So pulled the guts out and decided to replace the burner unit which includes the glow plug. It gets pretty crusty and the ceramic part of the plug gets stuck so hard to remove(for me anyhow)
Tested the circulation pump and the fuel pump and they were both intermittently functioning too, so they will need replacing.
So new burner went in
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200713/f93a380defb7a0ffb51f354ff7c92da0.jpg)
And new circulation pump and got new plastic as the old plastic was faded. Then polished the case up and turned out pretty good!
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200713/6ab3396f130b9e4d161e572593d60f45.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200713/24e045408924acc9beb9f8f1a89ad2be.jpg)
Old bits:
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200713/9ccb5176686fce2adc44d44abc5a2d4b.jpg)
Now ready for install:
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200713/308a3faa02ce025755b1d5b39c93a2e9.jpg)
Pretty reasonable too. I ordered the replacement bits on eBay for around $200. A new unit is over $1000.
This should help keep the cab warmer!
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Post by: binch on July 13, 2020, 08:40 PM
Post by: grizzlychicken on July 14, 2020, 05:22 PM
Quote from: binch on July 13, 2020, 08:40 PMIt's sitting on my work bench waiting for some love :) plan to do it in the next few days.
I didn't see anything about testing it after the new pump and burner.... Did everything test out good after the transplants?
In the mean time I finished priming, shooting the color and clear and I'm pretty happy how it turned out. Especially since painting isn't really my forte!
After the epoxy primer I shot on a high build primer then wet sanded it with 600grit. This was super messy. I shot the high build everywhere and in hindsight should have just down the visible panels as it creates way more work. Think moving forward the interior/covered panels will get epoxy primer, color and clear and the exterior will get the high build and wet sand.
Here is after the wet sand:
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200714/3846494c16a85e6d247f5454acd3e51a.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200714/a286ff1a6aaa5df8a75f5517f79332a6.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200714/b04aafe2fd0ea518a358b4cd2810acc0.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200714/2b0eb4f4fe6bf7aaaa24dba940bb2928.jpg)
And......wait for it...... here is after color and clear:
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200714/024b456c0f56c845fe6e00b3d9707fa6.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200714/8cb89b78f9560db3c8d191821a20067a.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200714/cc52418643b0e38bd720685b229590b5.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200714/ca7e2abea52cc544b3d578991cc3478b.jpg)
Really happy with my blue beastie! Will have black accents when it's all done. There is a bit of orange peeling here and there but that should sorted by a good cut and polish at the end :)
Now onto building up the bulkhead once the paint dries!
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Post by: grizzlychicken on August 24, 2020, 01:45 AM
Decided on 6061. Marked it all up, cut it then got the shop to bend the 90's
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200824/101df5a16ae5c44b29c3be782d418e2a.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200824/cf5f1aebef039dd4ff331fd8f9082557.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200824/16f60b99084445f12f5bf0bb6b165e77.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200824/a977200c040e4d170f973dd1804d45cb.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200824/eb99c928946d917c9d7a1a80c121f710.jpg)
Also got some bits from YRM
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200824/1366007de2f58db1549b2da02569600f.jpg)
Rebuilding the seat box ends and battery box. Here is the old battery box next to the YRM kit. Note the better shape of the floor so duel batteries fit better. The old box is heavy too as is made of steel. Only part of the seat box that is steel I believe.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200824/db1f25990980142d0633064db2b066eb.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200824/14dc75c10d7fc6ca511d0525698b5c42.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200824/57bed625e2d17f1003f649dedf97c723.jpg)
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Post by: Matt H on August 24, 2020, 02:49 PM
Nice to see the rebuilding is continuing.
Post by: grizzlychicken on August 24, 2020, 03:32 PM
Quote from: Matt H on August 24, 2020, 02:49 PMHa true. The heart of the ship is still original. Drivetrain/diffs etc but certainly has had some nip and tucking done and some open heart surgery ;)
This is going to be a regular Ship of Theseus!
Nice to see the rebuilding is continuing.
It seems that it is a never ending process.... every day it is " well while I'm here and it's apart it I may as well...."
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Post by: Matt H on August 24, 2020, 06:27 PM
Post by: grizzlychicken on August 24, 2020, 07:47 PM
Worked on the engine bay today and it looks nice and shiny! Started to reconnect the hoses and run the wiring loom. Just have to figure out how everything was routed. I took pictures of the engine bay but with the wings on so figuring out how it goes together on the fly.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200825/99de57fb7e35b4d4377ac126dff0b4cd.jpg)
The allisport intercooler looks sharp. Too bad it is going to get buried :(
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Post by: binch on August 24, 2020, 09:09 PM
Post by: grizzlychicken on August 26, 2020, 12:13 AM
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200826/71f50d50f7d37d07190a2d13bebd115d.jpg)
Made some shims for the bulkhead today. Trying to square it up. Without shims it had a bit of a lean:
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200826/ab07647d9e1a01a68b474bd6070922e2.jpg)
So used some ratchet straps to help place the shims and came upto pretty close to 0 degrees
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200826/7b9301ed7fdfceb41f06c7d77546e029.jpg)
Put some plastic shims between the steel and aluminum to prevent galvanic reaction. Made out of an old yogurt container :)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200826/2a1c08ff2c2d774fc95e70b90cc2c924.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200826/701826096631f1496da169e2da9edd56.jpg)
The bulkhead is all square now so placed the Pilar assembly in and hand tightened to see what the door gap measurements were from the b Pilar to the bulkhead and was within 1/4 " without any adjusting of positioning so should be able to get it right on. I was worried after the bulkhead galv that it may be out of square but seems pretty good.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200826/39fde089e8e9838e81afd53a51b83b15.jpg)
Dry fit the floor and rear quarters and realize I need to do some tweaking there.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200826/53fae357ad21b6c265ec41729e3f590a.jpg)
Need to get all my clips and cables set then onto putting the bodywork together. Think I will paint the Pilar assemblies, window frame, rear floor, rear 1/4 panels and seat box off the vehicle and assemble after paint........ and the work continues into another day
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Post by: grizzlychicken on August 26, 2020, 09:30 AM
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Post by: ugly_90 on August 26, 2020, 01:36 PM
The LR specific hardware should be bagged and labelled during disassembly for reuse where appropriate.
Post by: grizzlychicken on August 27, 2020, 11:19 PM
Quote from: ugly_90 on August 26, 2020, 01:36 PMWell I did bag the bolts but still have a big mess :) and yes bought a bunch of fasteners from fastenal and from YRM too. Mostly A4-80 or zinc for the higher tensile bolts
I use a bolt bin with new hardware for most of the reassembly whenever possible. When the plating is gone for a smaller standard metric bolt or nut, it's not worth the value of keeping it. Bags of 100 nuts are cheap at Edmonton Nut and Bolt and Fastenal. Various bolts, washers in smaller QTY can be bought from Gregg's as well, stainless too where appropriate.
The LR specific hardware should be bagged and labelled during disassembly for reuse where appropriate.
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Post by: grizzlychicken on August 27, 2020, 11:25 PM
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200828/085fa069d3ddffa2e48d96c2adf8de6a.jpg)
Also would you install a diesel parking heater in the battery box........ not sure how much heat the actual parking heater produces. I have an Airtronic D2 that I'm going to install somewhere :(
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Post by: grizzlychicken on September 16, 2020, 12:55 AM
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200916/98f0bed1e103f67403a29eed6b003a1e.jpg)
Before:
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200916/95b4a8cb6d1812b1f6d746536deb294a.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200916/0884fb972128802c7317da61bd12d8e6.jpg)After
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200916/cec34568fd096f5be782b72fa5892017.jpg)
And I'm surprised the new panels are not plug and play. The mating surfaces needed significant bending and there is a significant panel gap that needs hammer and dolly work
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200916/b2a12499049c22da92f737564d400384.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200916/adf639b26a410b8328f3f87fabc78ae2.jpg)
Here is my grill surround before sanding:
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200916/9b69df258523049fe5a19aa2988b8116.jpg)
And after:
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200916/9d1610b68f89113436a297ccdb6760df.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200916/f593ecb952eb786c1cf6e43cfbe2da5f.jpg)
Think the surround will get painted the car color and I have a new black grill that should look ok :) the above grill will remain raw aluminum.
And after all this is done your friends won't even realize the work that goes into the underbelly of the rover. Suspension, trans, engine powder coating etc. it will be judged by bodywork, color and accessories. I better not screw up the paint job too badly ;)
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Post by: binch on September 16, 2020, 10:44 PM
Post by: 88Hillman on September 29, 2020, 05:13 AM
Post by: camo388 on September 29, 2020, 01:02 PM
I'm glad I'm not the only one that put parts away for safe keeping and not remember where safe keeping is.
Very nice job so far.
When you get finished with your project do you want to come over and do mine? I might have found all the parts I put away for safe keeping by then. LOL
Post by: grizzlychicken on September 29, 2020, 01:50 PM
Quote from: 88Hillman on September 29, 2020, 05:13 AMI put the level on the frame rail then just used a jack to level the frame. Think I put the frame on a jack stand at one end. It was pretty close anyway. I leveled both rails.
In August you shimmed the firewall to make it sit plumb. How did you level the frame before adjusting the firewall?
Also had the sill rail handy to check square off. This is adjustable too so mostly used my level and a level frame but was good to see how the sill rail and bulkhead are sitting in relation to each other. My doors sent on yet so we will see how it works! I imagine I'm still going to have to shim the sill rail too....
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Post by: grizzlychicken on September 29, 2020, 01:52 PM
Quote from: camo388 on September 29, 2020, 01:02 PMThanks! Sure I'll get right in yours! Mine seems to be taking an eternity!
Anyone else think they catalog and organize their fasteners and go to put that part back on your truck and that well organized fastener is nowhere to be found? You put it in that spot you think you will remember but remembering never happens! Trying to organize well with labeling bags etc but wow it's tricky to find some of the bits you put away for safe keeping!
I'm glad I'm not the only one that put parts away for safe keeping and not remember where safe keeping is.
Very nice job so far.
When you get finished with your project do you want to come over and do mine? I might have found all the parts I put away for safe keeping by then. LOL
I'm sure my bits will show up at the end :) after replacement.......
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Post by: grizzlychicken on October 18, 2020, 11:37 PM
Started to install the rear antiroll bar that has a disconnect to allow 4x4 mode. Exited to see how this puppy works!
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201019/01b1662c926786dc44587be78675a1c1.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201019/31fcb79c6ef2b2a1dba57df908c34255.jpg)
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Post by: binch on October 19, 2020, 05:32 AM
Post by: Red90 on October 19, 2020, 07:38 AM
Quote from: binch on October 19, 2020, 05:32 AM
X engineering and an AVM hub.....clever idea!! ;)
Hopefully they have upgraded the design. A lot of people have had failures of the left side arm. The other issue that people see is the freewheeling hub has backlash in the splines and it is enough that you get a fair bit of body roll before it does anything. Let us know what you think.
Post by: grizzlychicken on October 21, 2020, 09:25 PM
Just working on the rear 1/4 fabrication today:
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201022/4e982eb5033d5d2dfa2fb28efb58fe15.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201022/25c39df72d752e5b22a15baafa99ead0.jpg)
The wheel well panel I made is not quite 90 so will need some tweaking. Otherwise looks not bad!
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201022/134aaf33e067c81920b6a531600fd23b.jpg)
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Post by: grizzlychicken on October 28, 2020, 07:38 PM
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201029/c2ff6baa69156124290f7b5c03b308fb.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201029/5bead791b59937bf47eacd0bcd93327d.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201029/248fd3c79d66eff20328f0df4050950b.jpg)
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Post by: binch on October 28, 2020, 09:48 PM
Post by: grizzlychicken on October 28, 2020, 10:09 PM
https://yrmit.co.uk/product/lr-defender-hdg-rear-tub-cornerdoor-latch-stiffener/
Just can't figure out how to use them! Maybe I'll call YRM and ask.....
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Post by: binch on October 29, 2020, 11:23 PM
Post by: grizzlychicken on November 02, 2020, 10:53 PM
Quote from: binch on October 29, 2020, 11:23 PMSo these brackets fit on either side of the safari door to reinforce either the strike plate or the middle hinge. The brackets are generic and fit left or right and have pre drilled river holes that line up with the exterior strength bracket.
Tell us what you learn please ;)
Here is a photo of an original slightly corroded bracket installed that Ronnie from YRM sent me.
Think it will be good to stop the door shudder that can happen when it get closed firmly.
My td5 did not have these installed when I got it.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201103/2da32eff9aa1d881ed648ae735cda749.jpg)
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Post by: grizzlychicken on November 02, 2020, 11:07 PM
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201103/6983165a76b3e648a3f361328af82e5f.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201103/13364e7d95458abb2b168958e60ca22e.jpg)
The right quarter is mostly together although there were some rivet holes that weren't going to line up on the rear panel that the lights mount to so I tried to fill them with aluminum brazing rod but unfortunately the heat from the propane torch warped the panel (I thought it would) and the aluminum is so thin that it opened up one of the holes more.....sigh.
I obviously don't have great aluminum welding skills!
At $50 it is worth just getting a new rear panel section.
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Post by: grizzlychicken on November 03, 2020, 08:53 PM
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201104/ab243933bc93482672509b5fe7397c01.jpg)
I test fitted everything and have some adjusting to do but happy with the progress on the left side:
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201104/68812a66310c7e09ca5e10b5aac4c85d.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201104/6a949f0d728eaa31ab053f06ffae0029.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201104/98b1445fb2113ce57211877ee8cf9ec9.jpg)
Just need to wait for the right rear panel to come in so it can be fitted.
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Post by: grizzlychicken on November 05, 2020, 01:21 PM
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201105/697b0b3a26e155a81aac0b36a36aa3b5.jpg)
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Post by: binch on November 05, 2020, 11:21 PM
Post by: grizzlychicken on November 07, 2020, 11:45 AM
So I'm rebuilding the rear quarter as you can see. I purchased the exterior panel and the rear panel and measured the wheel well part and had it bent up. It was pretty straight forward as all the angles are 90 degrees. The tricky part to bend was the front angled section of the wheel well. I had to have this made 3 times to get it just right!
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201107/fb6aea8ba0ca2c4e0163ef6727bd081f.jpg)
I am riveting it all. Originally the wheel well piece was spot welded to the outer panel but for my skills rivers work great and they are very strong too!
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201107/7a270485e10ff172e85e7a5d403c8b12.jpg)
There are various reinforcement pieces within the wheel well. The first consists of 2 brackets, one is a 90/90 bend "s" piece and the other is a 45 "L" piece. Again originally spot welded but I used rivets.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201107/99ac4f452238f63267f6c8bd35b5e6a3.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201107/6963993632d53d7c91710682c963d82b.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201107/fa35a909bd06a05d7fd8266388d6bab3.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201107/7a813c1ceefa1e3add4847531df5b3d8.jpg)
It's amazing how floppy the individual pieces are but how solid it gets when it's all riveted together!
There are also 4 reinforcement brackets I will rivet in that line up with the under floor supports to make the whole rear end rigid.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201107/31104735d84a6670935224bf0d811499.jpg)
I held it all together originally with a few rivets and then pre drilled all the rivet holes, then pulled it all apart to seal all the joints with sealant to make it water tight and the riveted it all together to make the completed piece. I then flipped it upside down and ran another bead of sealant around the edge of the panels. All in all I'm happy but takes a bit of time to do it right!
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201107/6b9072d80524e62b977273ffef7c5cc5.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201107/5fc06a218f674aca4519d6827e9ea771.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201107/6e7b851c74b263728cacb2ea6dbc5832.jpg)
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Post by: grizzlychicken on November 07, 2020, 02:11 PM
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201107/67544c6ce0023d4bade187fb151e1d61.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201107/366399e13bbca33b0fd17c8be9dbd6cf.jpg)
Planning to powder coat the metal top caps black so in the end may have some aluminum rivets that will stay aluminum color. The rest gets color!
Now for the other side after I get my extra bits!
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Post by: binch on November 07, 2020, 05:25 PM
Post by: grizzlychicken on November 07, 2020, 05:28 PM
Quote from: binch on November 07, 2020, 05:25 PMWell it's already galvanized. Just want to get a better finish and think I will like the blue black contrast.
galvanize the capping and then paint it. Unless you want to deal with the rust and repaint in again within 10 years. LOL ;)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201108/ecf6e1047505cbb1fe7b24a1a5b94679.jpg)
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Post by: grizzlychicken on November 07, 2020, 05:34 PM
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201108/3a7d157c930c9398c928adc694712ab8.jpg)
I think I need to tweak mine as they have sagged at one end:
https://youtu.be/BYz1i5bi5Tg
These look aluminum so should be ok to bend
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Post by: grizzlychicken on November 07, 2020, 05:38 PM
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Post by: Red90 on November 07, 2020, 05:49 PM
Post by: grizzlychicken on November 07, 2020, 05:53 PM
Quote from: Red90 on November 07, 2020, 05:49 PMThanks John. That's what the magnet test told me too!
Yes. Those are steel.
Also trying to figure out the front support. I imagine it should be flat left to right but has a bit of an offset on it front back. Ie the front seems a material thickness shorter. And has a couple of recesses in it too.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201108/64b15ed23627a2b7d1ac9b3f3e37306a.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201108/c5553242fcc8597cab2350e1a7420eb5.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201108/3792f70d947b359a5807f12c4549d282.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201108/3854b047c978940875c31f5c06871775.jpg)
I imagine the edge profile should be 90 degrees
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Post by: grizzlychicken on November 10, 2020, 06:20 PM
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201111/0ddd28c86403073895405c0fbf78d619.jpg)
I have a light behind it so you can see the banana shape.
So decided to bend up and fabricate a new support out of aluminum. It's height is offset the material thickness to allow the rear floor to just come to the wheel well level. I fabricated a second piece from the second row floor that goes to the edge of the wheel well.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201111/a23e94850e4b68a216f65636d3166fac.jpg)
Marked the attachment points for the floor support.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201111/e63292e3979c3886024f86c67ce9dc4c.jpg)
Then cut out slots for the floor supports.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201111/d3a87192fbe7b4135bfc41870dc12dc3.jpg)
The floor piece is bent to go under this piece hence the under floor support being offset in height. There will be a seam here but think it is better than what was there to start with.
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Post by: grizzlychicken on November 15, 2020, 11:31 PM
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201116/edbbe85542e122d06f01f9b9c01361ae.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201116/81bc2394a3beb1d12afc96123f292d45.jpg)
Also put together the exmoor rear seat brackets to see where they would line up.
The next step is building the tub. The critical part here is to get the rear door gaps right. I'll have to research the width. Measured my safari door and it is 36" wide and around 34" on the inside frame. Need to double check those measurements. I found a few measurements online between the rear wheel arches which is 36.4".
Here is my rough sketch
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201116/51e2c3a6720367b31406c2fe185eaf0f.jpg)
Think I will build it off the body and square it all up then install it. Need to figure out what fasteners to use to attach the cross member supports.
Still a work in progress!
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Post by: binch on November 16, 2020, 10:05 PM
Those exmoor trim seat bases are interesting looking too..... ???
Post by: grizzlychicken on November 16, 2020, 10:07 PM
-Open the bulkhead aperture an additional 3 square inches
-install a new allisport heater core which is quite a bit beefier
-replace the current fan with a new heater fan
-upgrade the heater fan control to the Dutch system.
I did need to repaint it to help with corrosion resistance and of course to make it look pretty:)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201117/82379afde899f0ab611d4c2d62512965.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201117/92e90bbe45b343ad8aaaf6bc2a5bde89.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201117/c9673713bf240e049ab7de7f9ab52ef0.jpg)
I ordered a new heater seal but didn't realize there is a big difference between left hand drive seals and right hand drive seals.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201117/521baa0b86a186a3a2f7f4e174b51b1d.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201117/b352633d4befe7e1fb892d1ee5ade3a7.jpg)
So just ordered a new seal. Have to see if it fits!
Pretty happy with how the heater plan is coming.
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Post by: grizzlychicken on November 16, 2020, 10:12 PM
Quote from: binch on November 16, 2020, 10:05 PMThanks Bill,
Looking good Shane!!!!
Those exmoor trim seat bases are interesting looking too..... ???
Yes they are. So they only fold down and don't tilt forward like the original seats do so see If I like it like that or not :)
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Post by: Matt H on November 18, 2020, 06:16 PM
Pray tell us more about of this strange magic???
Post by: grizzlychicken on November 18, 2020, 09:12 PM
Quote from: Matt H on November 18, 2020, 06:16 PMIt's nothing really fancy. Just changes the 2 speed heater fan control into a variable speed fan. It won't change the fan top end but should have more adjustability in the middle range.
Heater fan control to the Dutch system?
Pray tell us more about of this strange magic???
https://shop.landreiziger.nl/elektronische-ventilator-aansturing.html
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201119/19f9c552f9067fc59f8e632bdf06d4ee.jpg)
I like it for the OEM look and feel. Ie it's not just a knob it's still a slider :)
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Post by: grizzlychicken on November 22, 2020, 11:06 PM
With the bear march galv chassis there are some differences in the mounting bracket location on the antirollbar mount. There is an extra strengthening grab so the britpart bracket has to be modified a little to fit.
My biggest issue is that my rear seatbelt support tube doesn't allow the tank to fit flush on the rear support. It pushes the tank away. So just doesn't fit.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201123/2102ff15f9b7b1d8ed0541025a112cfc.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201123/b81293faff8b32d09f22a11e284c261d.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201123/5da09d23739a15b341d1908593f998ed.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201123/5048bf3f671bfcef156bcec77cd8e44a.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201123/6f44bc84bb910e1ed9cc6505d132d0b2.jpg)
I wonder if it is because the tube is bent from previous corner trauma.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201123/1ef9b4df2b47b894e61ed3631055604b.jpg)
But even being bent the clearance would be really tight.
I think in the end I will need this bracket for it to work and just waiting for an answer from the britpart team here.
https://www.britpart.com/all-parts/da4546kit
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Post by: grizzlychicken on November 25, 2020, 12:57 AM
Drilled a hole then pushed some wire into the hole and hooked it out with a fish tape
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201125/f9962e2ce49d8afb39df2385af0717ba.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201125/aa963759207c5be97ec8457ff8f87ac5.jpg)
Then threaded the barbed fitting into the wire and tied a knot in it. That allows me to pull it back into the tank and seat it in the newly drilled hole.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201125/280c047fca5750c0671929e2e8bee9d8.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201125/63837dbe6965b5c52131400413763cd5.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201125/09f553fcaaf4dbed3c3ba250971ab394.jpg)
Ready to connect to the auxiliary tank. I am going to grab the feed for the d2 airtronic heater from here too by splicing in a t connector to the hose.
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Post by: grizzlychicken on November 26, 2020, 08:57 AM
First placed the rear floor support/ door threshold cross piece in and squared up the corners. Checked the door opening gap. The doormeasures exactly 36" and the wheel well to wheel well measurement would be around 920mm on my 110. The floor is cut at 915mm width.
Clamped that in place and the front crossmember to check that it's all square
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201126/e849e7acbcbe0d6bcd5268419fec452e.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201126/ac077778f5ea7ddfd723722d299bcf00.jpg)
Got the under floor supports back from the powder later today and they look sexy. Too bad they get burried but at least they should be good for corrosion resistance!
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201126/8e16f4128e5b2595b45be0e3f209560d.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201126/88479f852a7eec9237355a4c55622f85.jpg)
Anyone rebuilt a rear tub before? Am I on the right track? I'm planning on riveting it all together. Likely rivet the front and rear supports and maybe use countersunk rivets to secure the cross pieces......
then rivet the floor and top hats. Prob do the top hats to the floor then the floor to wheel wells.
Any suggestions welcome here as just making it up as I go with what looks like it makes sense!
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Post by: grizzlychicken on December 10, 2020, 06:10 PM
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201211/b29ec7e922fa810551b998facefcffa0.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201211/788ae9b82157902ef2289c9174b367a8.jpg)
I installed the rivnuts but due to the material thickness of the frame the center rib it didn't feel right so removed it and put in a regular nut.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201211/8efb728bf93d74dfd6bd0cde759fd2e7.jpg)
I connected the tank leveling pipe and spliced in a tube that feeds the auxiliary eberspacher d2 heater.
I had to find a t connector that worked for the different gas line sizes and found one on eBay.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201211/3324df27522a572e01955b2f37cedf3b.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201211/0e23042034b57fa6bab389b30baf0c45.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201211/2f5b40e3a02801f6e0651cd91580a914.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201211/2f5f1e8e117f60146b3f26724a64f2e2.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201211/b0182b99d78e856f984c92e6062392cd.jpg)
Very happy with how it turned out. Ready for a fuller tank and some auxiliary heat!
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Post by: binch on December 10, 2020, 10:00 PM
Post by: grizzlychicken on December 12, 2020, 08:50 AM
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201212/e4cd5254698ebc65c088673744b19316.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201212/6ac24e7fa20b5bb5392467ecb9fc1ce2.jpg)
Makes great use of that wheel well space!
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Post by: grizzlychicken on December 13, 2020, 08:10 PM
The width between the b Pilar and the bulkhead I get as 34 3/4" . So this weekend I made sure the b Pilar was square with the sill rail then I made a spacer stick that was exactly 34 3/4 to check the spacing on the door gap.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201214/4bcc070952b82adc3226abf58ae1ccf5.jpg)
My bulkhead even though it was square with the chassis rail was to far filter toward the back of the truck. So I readjusted the shims so the b Pilar and bulkhead were parallel and it's pretty close and will do until I have the doors installed:
https://youtu.be/prxTuj06uRg
I can't say that I though of this myself. Thanks to britanica restorations for the tip! Here is a link to his video tutorial:
https://youtu.be/UwHOYGmtGN4
I realize the sill rail and b/c Pilar assembly is not in its final resting place as will change when I install the rear tub but at least I can get it close then retweak the bulkhead once the tub is in its final resting place.
I feel like a musician with all the fiddling I'm doing
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Post by: Alex C on December 14, 2020, 08:36 PM
Post by: grizzlychicken on December 14, 2020, 09:14 PM
Quote from: Alex C on December 14, 2020, 08:36 PMGood to know! With that do you mean they sit proud of the bulkhead and b/c Pilar? Kind of out laterally? What kind of lateral spacing are we talking? 1/4"?
Don't forget if the doors line up with the body, its a sure sign of problems, misalignment and the wind howling in at anything over 30kph is normal
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Post by: grizzlychicken on December 17, 2020, 08:04 PM
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201218/609f8f64c5a919a402a4d022552c99f2.jpg)
When I dry fitted the floor I think my right front wheel well will need readjusting.
Working solo in the garage today so managed to shimi it into place using a pair of bumper/panel stands.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201218/9bc740d6ca8eaf95b059d268e6d43f5d.jpg)
I got it into place but will need to readjust the auxiliary fuel tank as it sits to medially so pushes the tub to the left.
I clamped the tub to the c Pilar and front of the rear wheel arch
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201218/086f0d3b93055975c5bc4b4aea9407ae.jpg)
That way I can start to look at the rear door gaps and the rear tub alignment in relation to the bulkhead. I did some cross measurements of the bulkhead from seal lip to seal lip.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201218/5bd9488b47d6e6aab2fadcb326f48b3f.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201218/efed2672be3c0cb861b7ea18cb06afaa.jpg)
I am assuming it is pretty much square so should get the same measurement at the b Pilar and c Pilar's:
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201218/f50ea0098f38fa5b129c9d8fe8b5abe3.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201218/53e53e6cd208d3de0cbb5eea2741e64d.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201218/80953e81afc22f9a972ded026c792323.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201218/fa119e9dc956db67865a8d1076f9b814.jpg)
I just want to be sure all my body lines will flow!
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Post by: binch on December 17, 2020, 11:03 PM
Post by: grizzlychicken on January 07, 2021, 11:34 PM
Just figuring out now why the tub seems to be high at the rear mount points:
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210108/2e55ee09b00fda9b8785769aaa2aa2b7.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210108/caf0d73cb02b26adfd07040e04242393.jpg)
Well I went back and looked at the floor structure and realized after a bit of research that the top hats are not supposed to be under that rear cross beam.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210108/6573094133274d4f73e5b24a9fcd4fb3.jpg)
It goes under the rear floor support that rivets to the rear crossbeam. Here is a photo from yrm. Notice the top hats under the riveted on floor support and above the rear crossbeam.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210108/aa2c4c8591f75bf1a39c3e8cbd2fb9fe.jpg)
Took lots of photos on the tear down but never enough!
I know that most of you guys are shaking your head thinking "this guy is such a rookie!" Well at least I'm learning lots as I go but turning a 100 hour rebuild into a 200 hour rebuild!
How many hours do you think it takes to do a strip down and rebuild??! For me........ 4x your number ;)
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Post by: binch on January 09, 2021, 03:22 PM
Post by: grizzlychicken on January 09, 2021, 10:26 PM
So fixed the floor supports and the top hats are now sitting right!
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210110/bc9b12ae9aa3f11bcfaf7d5791997859.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210110/ccddc9e81fd4597eac3f87cb7ddfa554.jpg)
Then sealed it all up. Not sure what you guys are using for sealants but here is my range of sealing products(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210110/07e425e7dd69d3f9f454ccb01c766d96.jpg)
I started by referring to the sealing document in the manual but I'm also referring to the "common sense" guide too and sealing where......well..... I think the water would get in. It is already way better than when I pulled it appart. I do realize that you also need drainage so water doesn't sit so striking the balance. I realy like the strip caulking or "dumb dumb" in some spots where there is a void to fill and the liquid caulking works well between joined surfaces.
Also got to the rear body mounts done. These are stainless brackets that sit behind the aluminum. There is a plastic film that came with these but think that may not be enough to protect from galvanic corrosion. Might make up some plastic shims.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210110/6bd468a9044a7c883ef67172ca481aa8.jpg)
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Post by: grizzlychicken on January 10, 2021, 12:49 PM
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Post by: grizzlychicken on January 13, 2021, 12:20 AM
My constantly evolving strategy is relatively simple. The b Pilar has to first be square to the sill rail (mine isn't yet :()
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210113/157ae9413c2a2e70c0fd37ec887593db.jpg)
Then I'll adjust the shims on the bulkhead and use my stick gauge to make sure width is right.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210113/f50c5f958bde5ad4de7d0d67b6fe2f7d.jpg)
That should sort out the front.
Then hoping the door gap on the c Pilar will just fall into place!
Here is my b Pilar gaps without the b Pilar square:
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210113/a9a88e22f17e9e122dc8d108753016f2.jpg)
A Pilar pretty good gap
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210113/ec47c908f1cc960f293fe44823cafac4.jpg)
And c Pilar is bad but will change when I adjust the b Pilar. This is with the correct gap between the door and the b Pilar (not like the photo above)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210113/26e1f0b20ed4e6937c5931f3c7d58870.jpg)
Like this:
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210113/52a5d4f609a9ea8a2ea8f2bf0e8a9785.jpg)
I am hoping I don't have to drill the spot welds out on the c Pilar and move it forward for door gap.
I think this is pretty much the fussiest part of the build and will be the most obvious if i balls
It up!
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Post by: ugly_90 on January 13, 2021, 06:52 AM
Post by: grizzlychicken on January 13, 2021, 10:55 PM
Quote from: ugly_90 on January 13, 2021, 06:52 AMYup I still have those and using them to help with the gaps! Good tip
It looks like you're missing the rubber/foam door seal for final adjustments. You're best to reuse old door seal until after painting.
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Post by: grizzlychicken on January 13, 2021, 11:00 PM
So decided to weld one up rather than paying for the replacement. Made it from some scraps I had lying around.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210114/a9f60c9351428f8df3431913752a3479.jpg)
Used the other nut plate and some m8 bolts to align the nuts on the plate for welding so it will line up with the hinge.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210114/bcba55cafc5901de061160956d6ba156.jpg)
Ugly welds but will work a treat :)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210114/55c6282128e9fdb964af16dcad449885.jpg)
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Post by: grizzlychicken on January 14, 2021, 09:13 PM
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210115/87438bae40fd096944e84d7b2e0805dc.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210115/5dbf63bd28f7eae20acf7705c3ee863b.jpg)
I set this up and decided I wanted to reinforce the sill rail to stop it flexing too much so clamped another piece of steel to it.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210115/906585d4d3ffde11a34535b02076280b.jpg)
Looking at this setup I wasn't happy with the line of pull of the come along or where the fulcrum of force would be so added an outrigger piece of steel that I bolted to the come along to make the pull more horizontal in the b Pilar. With the end of it sitting next to the b Pilar at the base that would create the force fulcrum I need.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210115/933ddf19b93354fe132d448d155a5d6a.jpg)
And success!
Good door gaps now on the right!
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210115/c714e815525b919855e25c9e1a4b9d83.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210115/003fd361cc0af35d97c463d397e72f43.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210115/9dbbbbb1e44e3acc43838a0459e9cc6f.jpg)
Next I need to tackle the left side!
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Post by: binch on January 14, 2021, 09:56 PM
Post by: grizzlychicken on January 23, 2021, 10:48 PM
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210124/564e162eaf0cc2ca5c910f848bee6b09.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210124/67dbed7068cc4377b154a615010cf190.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210124/89a3985e3a8bc79b4314f036cabd2402.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210124/82de58d94a920010d8c9bbaaabb01a63.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210124/375a94a110db7ebdfc74b2a18275ef3e.jpg)
Door gaps not great on this side either.
So started by checking the b Pilar again and it looks nice and square.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210124/ff59ca81913b1b096aeee9110e4c793e.jpg)
The issue on this side looks like the bulkhead not being square to the rail.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210124/5703feadceddde944999092d48bc02c0.jpg)
So took out a shim and adjusted the bulkhead bracket bit that didn't quite do it. So decided to tweak the bulkhead with the come along again.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210124/e22788f17d4c30e67b2ff249beb1e296.jpg)
That worked a treat!
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210124/c18eb4e42ec4fc3ac524644afcdd14fb.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210124/f5835b8f85fd19ee1219141e9170764e.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210124/359856db232a1622d96cd659c809f6ed.jpg)
Doors are square front to back and just have to get the doors square laterally now but think that can be handled with shims after I paint.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210124/9fe3989ba2204a8fa2349f1d3322cad7.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210124/acc2fd191195cd8033dc7dc8d6891528.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210124/fe2ebfed0c0537f50b963a67d5107246.jpg)
Will check the rear safari door gap next then tear it down for paint.
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Post by: grizzlychicken on April 03, 2021, 11:34 PM
So if you haven't read my earlier posts the new chassis have some significant design differences that didn't allow me to use my current hitch in its stock configuration. I'll have to do a little review on the chassis sometime to identify the differences.
Anyway had to chop the threaded locating pins off:
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210404/9e32f5ef56ee69eb241651ee5ae4f9ce.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210404/f7bd20485b14fce84ee34c80911ac013.jpg)
It then could fit flush on the rear crossbeam member:
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210404/53c18ad054d5ce007fcce6be5a736054.jpg)
Here you can see the mounting hole difference in the new chassis:
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210404/7af9bdc9ad72f8a7f989835a2dfd6694.jpg)
I had some rear corner protectors that I decided to incoperate into the bumper mount. (https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210404/a8c3c0e96fd16ac2dbf125e3a1ad13e6.jpg)
As you see I cut the bumper tube then notched it and fitted it up each end.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210404/f42d602b5872eb6731628d12e09dd6ea.jpg)
Then it was a matter of tig welding it all together. Not the prettiest of welds as still building the tig skills but it will be structural and work!
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210404/0a4a09a961df748c4b32641d79f70dc4.jpg)
It actually looks pretty bad ass! Next is off to the powder coater!
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Post by: binch on April 04, 2021, 11:00 AM
Post by: grizzlychicken on April 04, 2021, 07:42 PM
I have the factory AC option and I think my 12 year old son could have done a better job!
I was wondering why the passenger was always cooking in the winter and the driver freezes their butt off. Turns out they put the speaker hole in the dash from the factory but didn't bother to plug the hole when they installed the AC. So all the air blows out the speaker hole. No wonder it didn't demist very well!
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210405/b60c2df61d4972a16dfe6c1b5b0a4c06.jpg)
So with the factory AC they try to duct the floor heat air through that rectangular opening into the square opening. And in the left the speaker hole is wide open to the heating box. So which is the easier path for air here???
Once I get this sorted it will be way better heat. Going to widen the AC intake for the heater too so air can be directed a little by the AC vents.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210405/9be8993eed22c504cf70d02fb966ced0.jpg)
You can see the speaker hole opening here.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210405/46f7de1ad25ed959ccbe65293223c916.jpg)
Will be much more efficient when I'm done :)
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Post by: Matt H on April 04, 2021, 09:38 PM
Quote from: grizzlychicken on April 04, 2021, 07:42 PM
So started working in the heater box and from an engineering standpoint what a mess.
That is Priceless :D
Post by: binch on April 04, 2021, 10:08 PM
Post by: grizzlychicken on April 11, 2021, 11:58 PM
Before I connect the heater box back to the bulkhead I am revisiting the bulkhead for its long term corrosion resistance.
And you may remember I stripped my own bulkhead down, repaired all the rust sections and had it galvanized by the local galvanizer in Calgary. It is hot dipped so lots of heat is apples to the bulkhead during this process.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210412/7872c08f0abe3efad24aafa36c17b1cd.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210412/2d180d7c0651df1908b24581239253e7.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210412/2f55023ee8707375a8333ec1e00b22be.jpg)
I am still super happy with the way it turned out by a few things to consider when you contemplating this.
The heat does affect the thinner sheet metal and it does warp in places. For me it didn't really warp anywhere you will notice it once it is all back together. There was a bit in the footwells and a bit around the heater outlet opening in the firewall.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210412/e2b91dee10a558cfc31fa2dd0641ee3d.jpg)
Once the seal is installed with the heater box installed it will have a good seal and you won't see the mild warping.
The other issue with hot dip galvanizing the bulkhead is that the galv doesn't get into all the cavities. In fact the heat can burn the paint off leaving Unprotected surfaces in critical corrosion prone areas like the top of the a-Pilar at the junction with the window, the upper cavity that lies between the window and the vents where the wiper arms emerge and the lower cavity just below the vents.
So I decided to cold galv treat these areas using an extension nossle. I got a new inspection cam so put together a rather dull video which shows these areas pre and post galv treatment. You can see some black areas and flaking where the hot dip didn't quite penetrate deep enough. Particularly right at the top of the interior of theA-Pilar. Lots of prep!
You can see across the bulkhead I just pierce the tape with the nozzle to galv the cavities.
Upper cavity galv treatment
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210412/1ac9fe9a16a2bf28f5e98b039063ab8a.jpg)
Lower cavity galv treatment. This pic is the inside cab part of the lower cavity behind the heater box.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210412/e7a2078de5a9ffe280c0a4df6aabeee1.jpg)
I am super happy with the result and think it will really helps with corrosion resistance!
https://youtu.be/zjBbnvMLgX4
Next stop.....fix the heater box......and so that saga continues :)
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Post by: GR8PMKN on April 12, 2021, 12:08 PM
Post by: grizzlychicken on April 12, 2021, 07:05 PM
The before and after pictures don't really do it all justice
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Post by: grizzlychicken on April 21, 2021, 10:29 PM
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210422/30d6d5ea19ec203b45aef5ad8880433c.jpg)
Now that I feel the bulkhead is solid from a corrosion resistance point of view I've been installing and tidying up the bulkhead wiring. It's pretty interesting all the splices that happens around the fuse box. It takes time to trace them all and make sure it's all up to snuff.
My thought is to have at least all the wiring pulled and sheathed before I soundproof and reinstall the dash.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210422/d5d64bb569ad8b6f434865d74840b5fe.jpg)
This means some planning is in order as I'm installing:
-power windows
-power doors
-heated seats
-Upgraded stereo head unit with amp
-center console rear A/c
-driving lights
-backup cam
-heated screen and mirrors
-webasto coolant heater
-eberspacher auxiliary cab heater
(I know.......not very minimalist ;)
Wiring diagrams a must!
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210422/375819889a6604f37dc05ea8178c9632.jpg)
Nothing like a sharpie and blue shop cloth to keep things straight!
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Post by: binch on April 21, 2021, 10:33 PM
;D
Post by: Matt H on April 22, 2021, 03:43 PM
My mind is like a steel trap...I've just lost the key!!
Post by: grizzlychicken on April 22, 2021, 11:25 PM
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210423/8595fff3ea4cde99f3bc234af4703811.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210423/84fd0feadedfb5390739e93965255848.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210423/d2cfd3615f83d1048f528e1284a6b5e3.jpg)
I even enlisted my brother-in-law to help tidy up my ugly welds.
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Post by: binch on April 23, 2021, 11:11 PM
Post by: grizzlychicken on April 24, 2021, 01:00 AM
So just working on some design ideas. Guess what I'm building?
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210424/22ed875b4d60b8fb6c064fabe39d5142.jpg)
Well see if this comes together.
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Post by: grizzlychicken on April 25, 2021, 12:34 AM
Started by adding the lock function that is equipped but not installed from the alarm system. Had to rewire/add connectors to the pin outs.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210425/47e4d980d7c7f561b7f5b460221fa0cc.jpg)
Pin outs 2 and 3 of the green connector on the Lucas alarm triggers locking and unlocking.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210425/fcdfc5cdc437dfab8adb2277b819a3ef.jpg)
So next to the green wire on the green plug we're 2 empty pin out slots which are pin 2/3 for the door locks.
So added the square connectors:
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210425/05d226f32a99d922f2c9eba73acc8535.jpg)
Pink/grey and orange /grey should do the trick.
Then ran these to where the main switch for my door locks will be located and now roughed in ready to go!
I had the actuators installed on the doors before stripping it down but plan to tidy up the door wiring a bit as the action previously on the doors wasn't great.
Next onto cruise control!
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Post by: binch on April 25, 2021, 10:17 PM
Quote from: grizzlychicken on April 24, 2021, 01:00 AM
Sure is Bill :)
So just working on some design ideas. Guess what I'm building?
Well see if this comes together.
An auxiliary heater in a cubby box...or an on board soft Ice cream dispenser ;D
Post by: mike.heathcote on April 26, 2021, 03:00 PM
This is going to be an amazing truck when it's done - I love the pictures!!
Post by: GR8PMKN on April 26, 2021, 03:58 PM
That's a problem for future me! ;D
Post by: grizzlychicken on April 26, 2021, 04:38 PM
Quote from: binch on April 25, 2021, 10:17 PMQuote from: grizzlychicken on April 24, 2021, 01:00 AM
Sure is Bill :)
So just working on some design ideas. Guess what I'm building?
Well see if this comes together.
An auxiliary heater in a cubby box...or an on board soft Ice cream dispenser ;D
Quote from: mike.heathcote on April 26, 2021, 03:00 PM
@Bill: my vote is that it's a stereo in a cubby box.
This is going to be an amazing truck when it's done - I love the pictures!!
Ha close Bill! You are on the right track when you are thinking something cold. And Mike is kind of right too.
Just toying with the idea of scratch building a center console ac and incorporate a subwoofer into it :) the ducking will be 3D printed if it works out, and may even 3 d print the whole thing, glue it together and then leather wrap it. I have a printer at home so shouldn't be too bad once I have the design worked out.
The factory ac center consoles are so expensive I can't do that. But just picked up an evaporator from a Dodge Grand Caravan rear ac system which is nice and compact and have the old defender blower motor so if I can get that assembled as a unit with the right valves and splicing it should work great!
This is definitely a work in progress though.....
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210426/7bd2cfecec31df36eb2731177f6e306b.jpg)
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210426/c596dc54e47bb7dd5ddeee9d89e24924.jpg)
Post by: grizzlychicken on April 26, 2021, 06:35 PM
Quote from: GR8PMKN on April 26, 2021, 03:58 PMLol. I think it's really just googles wiring knowledge and lots of time staring at a bunch of wires scratching my head trying to work it out.... the locks and windows aren't too bad. You just have to figure out where to mount it all. I did that piece a few years back when I got my defender but need to fine tune things as the locking mech was binding a bit and not locking all the doors. Think I need to change the mounting point when I reinstall it on my new doors.
I wish I had your wiring knowledge in place of my wiring-phobia. Your build is amazing. Power windows, locks, and cruise control are on my to-do list, but I don't even know where to begin. ???
That's a problem for future me! ;D
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210427/ec950bf38881edffbe1a73130358ea86.jpg)
For the cruise I had to update my ecu to a post 2002 unit to be able to activate the factory cruise option. I'll do a little blog post when I'm further along the install. But the ecu's with an NNNxxxxx number have flashable memory so you can update the tuning file too as well as turn on the cc features. My old ecu was an MSBxxxxxx serial so analog I think and not flashable through a nanocom, which is what I have been using.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210427/bc03c29e546347ab2d5719023ffdcc30.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210427/6c44174f59f1f79a428feb648311a692.jpg)
Happy to help if you need a hand sometime :)
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Post by: GR8PMKN on April 26, 2021, 09:21 PM
Happy to help if you need a hand sometime :)
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[/quote]
Be careful with offers like that! haha. I just replaced both of my front seatbelts and hardware today... a far cry from your wiring wizardry!
Post by: binch on April 26, 2021, 10:09 PM
Keep up the good work...it's making for a wonderful read!!!!
Post by: Red90 on April 27, 2021, 06:18 AM
Quote from: binch on April 26, 2021, 10:09 PM
End result was a lot more air through the heater. One day I'll enlarge the opening from the heater into the bulk head ahhahahhahahah!
The biggest restriction, by far, in the stock heating system is the lower dash vents. They are quite a bit smaller than all of the other passages. The bulkhead hole is around 30% larger so is not a restriction unless you open the dash vents. If you have the lower dash out, it is an easy job to enlarge the holes, the flaps and make bigger deflectors.
Post by: grizzlychicken on April 28, 2021, 11:59 PM
Quote from: Red90 on April 27, 2021, 06:18 AMGreat advice John. And when you have the factory ac those small holes in the heater box push the floor air into even smaller holes in the ac unit to be distributed out via the ac venting system. Have to reengineer those too........aka cut bigger holes!Quote from: binch on April 26, 2021, 10:09 PM
End result was a lot more air through the heater. One day I'll enlarge the opening from the heater into the bulk head ahhahahhahahah!
The biggest restriction, by far, in the stock heating system is the lower dash vents. They are quite a bit smaller than all of the other passages. The bulkhead hole is around 30% larger so is not a restriction unless you open the dash vents. If you have the lower dash out, it is an easy job to enlarge the holes, the flaps and make bigger deflectors.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210429/ef2a0fcd74d608e39c74d7041b1793dd.jpg)
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Post by: Red90 on April 29, 2021, 06:39 AM
Post by: Matt H on April 29, 2021, 12:15 PM
Post by: binch on April 29, 2021, 10:16 PM
Post by: grizzlychicken on May 04, 2021, 11:17 PM
So have been doing some front wing body work.
Ther is a bit of a gap between the bulkhead and the front wing on the right. Not sure how it got dinged there and it's missing the little mounting bracket that attaches to the bulkhead so will have to remedy that :)
Here is the gap just behind the mirror btw the bulkhead and the outer wing panel
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210505/0c51c686f3971824ae9c3f17affe7e57.jpg)
So pulled out the upper part.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210505/aa153aefda0312cbc9ddc8dfd4bca251.jpg)
Then had to get the contour right so made a paper template of the contour
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210505/b457b2f51de0e7393c435541d1095bac.jpg)
Then traced it onto some 1/8" metal sheet
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210505/99c87fd3ad3d631cbac0cd55be98e241.jpg)
Then cut out the metal to make a dolly for the contour
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210505/5f639d0911ceef23faa2ae6a4a3bbcba.jpg)
Had to be thin metal to fit between the mounting bracket and the outer panel. This thickness was perfect.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210505/3ed61eab66ad592026a82bcf3ae6edc0.jpg)
And the fit up is already better
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210505/0aa3b2771468ec2f4abc4fef9335ea75.jpg)
With my bodywork skills it won't be perfect but will be way better!
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Post by: grizzlychicken on June 03, 2021, 12:45 AM
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210603/3db314a27303ce62bc4e8ca3fa7a9134.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210603/5ef4b538d42f94a60241bf2c8427e98d.jpg)
The "booth" works great. Have a furnace filter duct taped and cut into the poly wall and an extraction fan on the other end of the booth which keeps air flowing nicely. Almost a down draft booth :)
After epoxy primer I have one panel I couldn't quite get perfect by metalworking.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210603/45060648e3f4e76e3b6c4d33335854ac.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210603/be2cf67c8a504b894c3146fe4635e608.jpg)
The corner curve is a bugger to get perfect with my hammer and dolly skills anyway!
So skimmed it with filler.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210603/0225499cc6f69de32a45f11c9f17fc05.jpg)
Yes I know it is a bit more than a skim. Lots of sanding ahead. I used a piece of tape on the border of the curve so I could fill upto it and sand to the line to try to keep these twisty aluminum panels straight for final paint.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210603/b741da16e759f21b50ed757bef0c6932.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210603/56cc8b5b8a8999aa4d20f102c859a51f.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210603/780f62ba8b0e4eb35e73c294093d5782.jpg)
Yup definitely lots of sanding but super happy with the result. So have epoxy primer then body filler.
Here is a question. What does everyone do after sanding the filler? By sanding the filler you reexpose the metal in spots so my gut feeling is to add a layer or 2 more of epoxy primer before I use the fill primer to make sure the base layer is secure.
What would you do...........
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Post by: mike.heathcote on June 03, 2021, 08:53 AM
When I did my trucks, after I sanded the filler I used an etch primer on all the exposed metal. After that, I sprayed the whole truck in 'regular' primer before the color and clear coats.
Good luck - it's coming along really well!
Mike
Post by: binch on June 03, 2021, 08:51 PM
Great job! ;)
Post by: grizzlychicken on June 04, 2021, 08:22 PM
Quote from: binch on June 03, 2021, 08:51 PMGreat tips thanks bill
Spot coverage with epoxy primer or good etch primer on any bare metal.
Great job! ;)
Quote from: mike.heathcote on June 03, 2021, 08:53 AM
The wings are a lot harder to straighten than they look - great work! It's aluminum, so once it bends it stretches - so it's near impossible to get it perfect again without some level of filler.
When I did my trucks, after I sanded the filler I used an etch primer on all the exposed metal. After that, I sprayed the whole truck in 'regular' primer before the color and clear coats.
Good luck - it's coming along really well!
Mike
Thanks mike!
Now I'm just toying with the idea of using a sealant in the seam. Think it will look better once painted. Something flexible like seam sealer would work.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210605/38a71a8772c019f56481c0755b07eb92.jpg)
Think I'll try this black stuff.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210605/3690f842cfe1e90e603c1f54699ad3f9.jpg)
Flexible paintable seam sealer.
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Post by: grizzlychicken on June 06, 2021, 11:23 PM
The more body filler you put on the more body filler you have to sand off........sigh.....
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Post by: grizzlychicken on June 11, 2021, 09:58 AM
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210611/219053415f3957ab40bca51b52f447fb.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210611/cb4508b30c7982c385b60d6a32a6d507.jpg)
Using a combo of hand sanding for the complex curves and blocking for the flatter bits..
Lots of sanding still to come......,,
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Post by: Chad M on June 11, 2021, 05:27 PM
Big props for your dedication to this project!
Post by: grizzlychicken on June 11, 2021, 11:47 PM
Quote from: Chad M on June 11, 2021, 05:27 PMThanks Chad,
There are some thin foam blocks that contour to the compound curves, they'd work perfect for the area you're working on there.
Big props for your dedication to this project!
You're right I should be using something. I have a set of these and will likely try the thinner profile.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210612/7d7757d6ebc2a87381d2eb5de6ebb2fc.jpg)
The hand sanding seems to work pretty well though on the curves if you are careful to even out your pressure.
I didn't realize how old my hands look until I looked back at that last wet sanding pic.....
So I spotted a nice 2004 110 in Canmore a few days ago and had a nice chat to the guy who was from Calgary. He had Kahn in the UK spruce his up before he shipped it over and it looks great. Funny when your rebuilding one that the only pics you take are of it's undercarriage
#cantremeberwheremynutsgo
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Post by: grizzlychicken on June 14, 2021, 08:56 AM
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210614/05e893ecbb96944c5dee0624289c873d.jpg)
A few weeks back I was fitting up this panel and there was a bit of a bump in the metalwork where the black line was.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210614/e03bfdba82a3e244950c15747ed7f070.jpg)
So why not hit that with a hammer you may ask! Another rookie move as chipped off the edge of the finished paint.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210614/8f6d34299b33870cfa5ae490a4770730.jpg)
Yes I know. Dumbass!
Well fixed that now anyway
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210614/4585f579b7beabef30162c6f2b299997.jpg)
And just using an asphalt undercoating for the bits I can't access well when installed.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210614/e416317ba1f8b2eb4ed949278881f65a.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210614/b8ea3d9953659fdb5174d961a2fde7a3.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210614/23b1be1a4ebddc780717b68f00a3da15.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210614/85424de5d0aa74957df35dfa7ddb4113.jpg)
Now off to my next paint screwup! Well at least I'm learning a lot. Having to paint multiple pieces multiple times......
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Post by: binch on June 14, 2021, 08:05 PM
Post by: grizzlychicken on June 15, 2021, 11:31 AM
Quote from: binch on June 14, 2021, 08:05 PMWell I was thinking of putting dynamat on the interior under the carpet around the train tunnel and having the ashphalt on the exterior tunnel surface but I like the idea of dynamat on the exterior of the tunnel. Just wasn't sure it would hold up to oil and grime in there.
Are you going to put some sound absorbing foam around the tranni tunnel (underneath)?
What did you do?
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Post by: binch on June 15, 2021, 10:48 PM
And B-Quiet to deaden the sound in the cab...that and a ton of camping gear works well too LOL
I remember pulling a 1" thick, aluminium foiled liner out from the tunnel of a 90 years ago. That seemed like a great idea for dulling the road noise. I can't recall where it ended up going though..... ???
And if all else fails....noise cancelling head phones ;D
Post by: grizzlychicken on June 23, 2021, 11:36 PM
Have more bits in the paint booth.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210624/a6425e3b514164253e63f592257db590.jpg)
Now to:
Epoxy prime/seal x3
Body fill
Fill prime x3
Wet sand 600
Base coat x3
Clear coat x3
Cut and polish
And repeat........................
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Post by: binch on June 24, 2021, 05:14 AM
Post by: grizzlychicken on June 24, 2021, 08:43 AM
Quote from: binch on June 24, 2021, 05:14 AMEpoxy primer/sealer- pro form 2k 1:1
Nice! Out of curiousity....what paint have you been using?
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210624/5e6a31adf9ef88da31c8ef36444de3f3.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210624/7ba10b56f5e0a0320f1893066645fea9.jpg)
Fill primer dominion sure seal 4:1
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210624/1b8135e9ef7f431d29ab120681f86c04.jpg)
Then basecoat is reduced 1:1. Not sure if the brand. It's a premium base from Calgary Bodyshop supplies
Then Bess clear coat 2k 2:1
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210624/bb027b3191ead542a3776bcc1158a886.jpg)
I tend to get a nice flat panel after the fill prime and sand then get a little orange peeling after the base then a little more after the clear. I'm using a 1.4mm nozzle gun for the base and clear and a 1.8mm for the primer sealer and high build primer. I'm sure a big chunk of the orange peeling is technique! It should polish out though and I'm told most resprays need a cut and polish and sometimes a wet sand with 1000/2000grit before polish depending on the extent of the orange peeling.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210624/fa13f61d6d5899399a5fdc27cb274e1b.jpg)
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Post by: Red90 on June 24, 2021, 08:53 AM
Post by: grizzlychicken on June 24, 2021, 09:00 AM
Quote from: Red90 on June 24, 2021, 08:53 AMHmm. No I didn't.
Possibly too late... But did you consider just doing a coloured polyurethane instead? It avoids the clearcoat and make future repairs easier. Not as shiny, but makes more sense for people that go off road and scratch the paint as a hobby.
It had a Bed-liner paint when I got it cheaply and sparsely applied. I must admit I'm not a fan personally of the raptor/bead liner/ textured finish myself. That's why I went with the base/clear route. Is the poly paint like the textured paint?
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Post by: Red90 on June 24, 2021, 09:51 AM
Made in Edmonchuckles.
https://www.endurapaint.com/products/topcoats/
Post by: mike.heathcote on June 25, 2021, 10:39 AM
When I painted the Red one a couple months back, I paid $600, not including the clear coat. Included reducer/hardener, a pint of white and I've still got a half-gallon of the red left over.
The paint lays out really nicely, and with a couple coats of clear overtop it holds up very well in the sun (I posted pics in the club vehicles thread).
Post by: binch on June 27, 2021, 10:28 PM
Quote from: mike.heathcote on June 25, 2021, 10:39 AM
I used Endura on both my Rovers, and am very happy with the results. It's decent paint, at a good price.
When I painted the Red one a couple months back, I paid $600, not including the clear coat. Included reducer/hardener, a pint of white and I've still got a half-gallon of the red left over.
The paint lays out really nicely, and with a couple coats of clear overtop it holds up very well in the sun (I posted pics in the club vehicles thread).
What paint booth were you using there Mike????
Post by: grizzlychicken on June 27, 2021, 10:40 PM
Quote from: Red90 on June 24, 2021, 09:51 AMAh ok. Well I think I'm committed both physically and financially down this stream. I think it will turn out ok and my driving will be 80-90% on the tarmac anyway.....
No. Not textured paint. Just polyurethane paint with colour. It is very common. It is just not normally used on cars as people want the mirror shine you can get with a clear polyurethane top coat.
Made in Edmonchuckles.
https://www.endurapaint.com/products/topcoats/
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Post by: grizzlychicken on June 27, 2021, 10:42 PM
Quote from: mike.heathcote on June 25, 2021, 10:39 AMAwesome thanks mike. Looks great! As I just said to John though I'm a little committed down the path I'm going now!
I used Endura on both my Rovers, and am very happy with the results. It's decent paint, at a good price.
When I painted the Red one a couple months back, I paid $600, not including the clear coat. Included reducer/hardener, a pint of white and I've still got a half-gallon of the red left over.
The paint lays out really nicely, and with a couple coats of clear overtop it holds up very well in the sun (I posted pics in the club vehicles thread).
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Post by: grizzlychicken on June 27, 2021, 10:45 PM
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210628/84a6bc093ce990a8b2396ad7d413cffe.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210628/bd1970377ff0a30e120b9b5bfe1ee1d7.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210628/524c5aeac059c5d62391cbd91b214850.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210628/86e646ce7c3f4acc9a5eb5419cee484d.jpg)
My wife calls it "the Cookie Monster". I think the name just might stick.......
Doors are next!
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210628/12f720d5a6d673f5166d2669f0523ee3.jpg)
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Post by: mike.heathcote on July 05, 2021, 03:38 AM
@Bill, a friend of mine paints for a dealership in Sherwood Park, so I was able to use a couple booths at his work. Did the red in the main booth, and the white in one of the prep bays.
Post by: binch on July 05, 2021, 10:36 PM
Can you see that little spec of light at the end of the tunnel ;)
Post by: grizzlychicken on July 06, 2021, 12:12 AM
Quote from: binch on July 05, 2021, 10:36 PM
very nice indeed!!!!
Can you see that little spec of light at the end of the tunnel ;)
Yes feels closer every day! Although the tunnel is getting a bit obscured with the paint splatter right now. I was just picking specks off my specs earlier tonight!
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210706/44b3e08a8f735b08cc66f50b45d6289f.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210706/fb742ff02f4b88c743f13e255bc8ac36.jpg)
Now high build primer. I'm sure you guys are familiar with this but for me I'm learning every day! Turns out that fill primer gives you a pretty bumpy surface to start, kind of like an orange peel but different to "orange peeling" if you know what I mean. Well the way I paint it anyway
There is quite a bit of sanding to get it to a flat surface and you invariably get back to the metal in a few spots with blocking it. (Think I'll need to spot shoot a bit more primer sealer on those bits)
I found that after sanding if I used a dry cloth to wipe the surface down from sanding residue when I rub the cloth across the surface and it slides smoothly it's good for color. If it hangs up or has a bit of resistance at all then it needs more sanding. Hard to explain......easier to feel.
Fun facts
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Post by: grizzlychicken on July 08, 2021, 07:41 PM
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210709/0549f0f1ded3edd44adae9d1b04d5683.jpg)
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Post by: grizzlychicken on July 25, 2021, 10:49 PM
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210726/5a2c75531dba6825d290122f2bc0939c.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210726/35c08a08ae2df10d0b91743196d0505b.jpg)
So chatting to the body supply guys they think it's the product I'm using. Not flowing properly. So changed products and going to wet sand it back to the color, hit with another coat of color then reclear with the new clear coat and plan to reduce it 10% to help with the flow.
Already looks better wet sanded but will need some color and clear. Color mostly because me it is hard not to sand through so have some light spots in the color after sanding.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210726/a92c40e18ca59c1f49b05787d704444f.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210726/b92ce2642aa19ff309b91703c4ce62ec.jpg)
This painting thing is a little fussy. But if your fussy then it will turn out better.
Ok time to drop the tools and head for a 2 week backcountry road trip! Canoeing in north western Ontario!
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Post by: binch on July 25, 2021, 11:43 PM
Post by: grizzlychicken on July 26, 2021, 01:00 AM
Quote from: binch on July 25, 2021, 11:43 PMWabakimi lake near Armstrong Ontario. 150k canoe trip with the fam.
Where you plan to go paddling???
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Post by: grizzlychicken on August 19, 2021, 05:16 PM
Ok so I have a question for the painters in the room. I'm sanding back the orange peel in my previous post and wondering how far I should go. When I dry my panel off it has super small dimples still. But if I sand much further I'll burn through the base coat. There is a little room here though.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210819/9d1e03666a0a482876218fa7360e8b91.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210819/5cd94a94ccc07ee586cb027d63f0e00e.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210819/18e1e56a52eeb69def20ac957e87a517.jpg)
I plan to touch up the burn through spots of base then do another coat of base then clear coat it again.
Do you think the layers will cover the dimples? Or keep sanding?
Here is the same panels wetted up with a spray bottle:
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210819/06107cb880d345eacd7a1e1d044bb538.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210819/2b8185952b4b4506275724835de1fcf6.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210819/cfd977f3ea8b07b1388a137dc94f8059.jpg)
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Post by: mike.heathcote on August 20, 2021, 11:41 AM
If you don't have one already, I'd strongly recommend getting a paint thickness gauge. They're on Amazon, starting around $30, and go up past $100. If you know how thick your primer, or base is, it'll let you know exactly when to stop before you break through.
To a certain extent, additional paint layers will sit on top of the dimples, and possibly 'flatten out' the smaller spots. Larger spots not so much. If it was me, and the plan was to run a few more coats anyways, I'd keep sanding till smooth. If your gun is set up right, you should only get minor, if any orange peel. I'd suggest checking your gun setup (use a bit more air), and make sure you've used enough thinner/reducer in your paint mixture.
Good luck - you're going to have an awesome truck when it's done!!
Mike
Post by: grizzlychicken on August 21, 2021, 12:26 AM
Quote from: mike.heathcote on August 20, 2021, 11:41 AMAwesome advice thanks mike. I was even thinking of just keeping my original paintwork and just have it as "textured" it actually is pretty uniform. But I'm 3 doors in with sanding now so in it for the long haul! Wet sanding with 400.
Hey,
If you don't have one already, I'd strongly recommend getting a paint thickness gauge. They're on Amazon, starting around $30, and go up past $100. If you know how thick your primer, or base is, it'll let you know exactly when to stop before you break through.
To a certain extent, additional paint layers will sit on top of the dimples, and possibly 'flatten out' the smaller spots. Larger spots not so much. If it was me, and the plan was to run a few more coats anyways, I'd keep sanding till smooth. If your gun is set up right, you should only get minor, if any orange peel. I'd suggest checking your gun setup (use a bit more air), and make sure you've used enough thinner/reducer in your paint mixture.
Good luck - you're going to have an awesome truck when it's done!!
Mike
The paint shop thinks it was the product I was using too. Might be that a bit more air is needed. The guns I have are from princess auto and are their basic guns. Have both 1.4 and 1.8 nozzle sizes:
https://www.princessauto.com/en/hvlp-gravity-feed-paint-spray-gun/product/PA0008059833
Used the 1.4 for my first round of clear and 1.8 for the doors. The doors have way more textured clear finish and think it's from the 1.8 nozzle.
Well learning the hard way :)
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Post by: grizzlychicken on November 08, 2021, 07:38 PM
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20211109/83bbd04967b3e440ec281c51d70cddd1.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20211109/f24049801397bebee52be34dd614fd80.jpg)
Also improved my paint setup. Got a nice shiny new gun! The 1.3 nozzle should help with my finishing!
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20211109/1455a2d20df7bdd08aa23708b2afc1df.jpg)
Now to reconfigure my garage paint booth to accept the whole 110.........
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Post by: grizzlychicken on November 23, 2021, 05:46 PM
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20211124/c1c9bdf5c84b87c07a5d1fb92b80bd6b.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20211124/9e38cae9ad820eba367921918931868d.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20211124/f7fe6bb1b103b784835b4d7eba6f05e7.jpg)
Connecting the floor to the longitudinal cross members. Original floor uses spot welds but I'm options for rivets. Should be strong enough and will be covered with carpet anyway.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20211124/b6b5c77baa59ec5b7719d78d5b852ad2.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20211124/5a6e2a1afc6d72748d3be00c1b5d9de1.jpg)
Test fitting the exmoor seat bases. Think they will work great! Although the mounting brackets seem to be not quite square.....!
Once this is all set up I'll prime and fill the tub then paint the whole car as a unit so the paint will hopefully be more consistent :)
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Post by: binch on November 23, 2021, 10:04 PM
Post by: grizzlychicken on December 14, 2021, 10:10 AM
So got back in the garage again and finished buttoning up the rear tub. I think I mentioned this earlier but I went with a thicker 3mm floor and matched the front rear footwell return to it. A little bit of fab work but think it is turning out really well. Also bent up a new support that goes between the c posts and supports the floor join and the front of the wheel well.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20211214/0e746dfdff152693841d63766aea701e.jpg)
I also installed the new stainless seatbelt mount points and drilled the holes for the floor to frame mounting points that sit next to the seatbelt mounts.
I will make a rubber insulating gasket to protect these bits from galvanic corrosion
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20211214/ab6203abba4e962f26d3b6d3a7d9f226.jpg)
Then went back to look at my inventory of rubber gaskets from YRM.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20211214/cf7e377274b3393311036d6772a6c568.jpg)
So since most of the body is aluminum we need to create a barrier where it touches steel to minimize that galvanic corrosion. When we look at the rear tub the contact points have interesting engineering. Firstly the floor sits on vertical aluminum rails which sit on 4 horizontal steel crossmembers so these need to be insulated.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20211214/37a9ffc47cfaf970dc7c7cb0e2be731b.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20211214/67e78aa7ad089952ff2566af1d9d6267.jpg)
I was surprised how much the rear tub actually "floats" on the chassis. It has 4 contact points on each side where the steel crossmember rests on a chassis support. There is a rubbed spacer at each of these points that allows some movement at these points and for the front most aluminum cross meme we an insulating point for galvanic corrosion.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20211214/7b17402dee943321486a58d02061b99a.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20211214/df6e6bff632e6910efb9705b6b03f625.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20211214/0636eb48a806e3ca405d6a7578077adb.jpg)
The main structural attachment points of the rear tub appear to be:
-To the chassis crossmember in the footwell of the second row seats
-to the c Pilar itself where it is both riveted to the c post and bolted to the front floor crossmember.
-to the floor to chassis mount points next to the seatbelt anchors.
-to the rear chassis crossmember
- and there is a rear crossmember to seatbelt bar attachment tools of these aluminum to steel point need some insulation for galvanic corrosion.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20211214/35f8d050c8066d76f5de17990c2b6e75.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20211214/b6fb712e80dac18c155733b36d61f7ca.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20211214/c7c45904cb357fc001f3ed019ebffa52.jpg)
I still have to chat about the chassis differences between the original chassis and the new galvanized chassis. Particularly the mounting points for the tub. The old chassis has pretty level support points for each of the tub crossmembers.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20211214/73c8662d17d966084d6f6dc096195924.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20211214/2db734c71b195889465dc74e97cf041c.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20211214/7e72358a30fb3de3a2c9e8d5976892e2.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20211214/5a53189c28f4e4c00081f7b532549caa.jpg)
Where as the new chassis has a more significant height difference between support #2 (from the front) and supports 1 and 3. So much that I had to add an extra spacer there so it would take some load.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20211214/9d56059340c8aba934afc1c5ced73d7a.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20211214/91078fd5911e2c7632cc44182ff15801.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20211214/44a1d36e9ee7b82b9506263d4d8b074a.jpg)
Well I'm sure the majority of you guys are probably thinking "yup tell me something I don't know" so if so sorry for this long winded update!
I learn something every day on this project! Ok enough screen time, back to building....,.
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Post by: grizzlychicken on December 17, 2021, 12:03 AM
I didn't quite have enough yrm gasket material to finish all the aluminum to steel interfaces. So found some gasket from crappy tire.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20211217/55fc5064cc8259c454976a534efc2469.jpg)
Then measured it up and installed them on front of the brackets
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20211217/b1b224ae9a3280d4f45417dcaab11f2a.jpg)
Worked well. Then installed there's in the second row heel kick panel and started to bolt it all up.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20211217/f1400afe70d1f7c5a5e381f85741e9ac.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20211217/2d68d55db11e47c77e4be8c9ac0aa4ca.jpg)
Then went to the toe kick panel that joins the b Pilar's together. There are 6 mounting points for that panel that gives a bunch of stability to the b Pilar and sets somewhat the position of the b Pilar's from the front and rear of the car.
I think to change the position of this panel and hence the door Pilar's you would have to shim it at the bulkhead.
My door gaps are pretty much right on where they were so was happy that the panel position will work. It is sitting about 1/4" off the mount points toward the rear of the car so built some aluminum shims and then insulated the steel to aluminum interface again.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20211217/d9410caf8cfd8f20d08a7366d18149cc.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20211217/0861808d981c834166e48ef31468b574.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20211217/972b427c12010cb1cdc6d4fdafe50ed2.jpg)
You really need these shims so you don't bend the kick panel...
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20211217/04ddf0e1c277c8e60f3a97befa478af3.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20211217/785c5d38885df3d6388817db06ee119e.jpg)
This overall leaves a slight body overhang at the rear of the tub on the chassis but since the door gaps are good I can work with a small overhang as the rear mount point is adjustable :)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20211217/0541c4119e032fcba92087f36d2363ba.jpg)
Very close to having the rear structure of the tub all set which is exciting! Decided at the end of today to add all my lubes before the seat box and floors go in.
Transmission oil- check
Transfer case oil- check
Rear diff oil-check
Engine oil- check
Crap didn't realize I needed this much lube!
Off to Napa for:
-More engine oil(need 7.8liters!)
-More diff oil
-power steering fluid
-brake fluid
That's a job for the weekend.
Thirst little truck.....
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Post by: Matt H on December 17, 2021, 05:24 PM
Quote from: binch on November 23, 2021, 10:04 PM
Still enjoying the thread!!! Keep it coming please ;)
X2. Very cool to see the progress. It's not an easy thing to see such a comprehensive project through to completion. Well done.
Post by: grizzlychicken on December 19, 2021, 10:26 PM
Quote from: Matt H on December 17, 2021, 05:24 PMThanks Matt. Well it's far from completion but every day is a step closer! Funny how much time the little things take! I took me about an hour to winch and bolt my engine into place but to mount the rear tub seems to be taking weeks. Shim this, measure that, get all the steel and aluminum separated, drill out rivets when things aren't lining up, check and recheck the door gaps...... well just got to keep moving forward........to quote finding Nemo:Quote from: binch on November 23, 2021, 10:04 PM
Still enjoying the thread!!! Keep it coming please ;)
X2. Very cool to see the progress. It's not an easy thing to see such a comprehensive project through to completion. Well done.
" just keep swimming......:)"
Post by: GR8PMKN on January 22, 2022, 08:05 PM
Post by: grizzlychicken on January 31, 2022, 10:29 PM
No update for awhile as real work and life gets in the way!
Today finished mounting the b Pilar cross member. Shims worked a treat!
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220201/21123d3da35dc8de4ca0f86a68a67fda.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220201/45c982bcbbce2c36b6741345218506bb.jpg)
Then cleaned up the wiring running on the rails and to the ecu compartment and mounted the seat box.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220201/1159ab0f8a01684ab636fb574abd2c4d.jpg)
I have replaced all the fasteners with a4-80 stainless steel and installed new seals. Looks very industrial.
Then installed the transmission tunnel to bulkhead bracket. Sealed it and fixed it with new stainless steel screws.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220201/c893df5d1ff1739138deae6712a0f736.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220201/bcc56a16a9dd76804504d88635a88b6c.jpg)
Then threaded the ecu loom back into the seat box
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220201/915f3bc554abcd65e49cb7c7340a44be.jpg)
Well I'm not a great "clean as you go" tinkerer. Probably because I only have an hour here and there sometimes so will focus on getting tasks done and then don't have time to clean up!
The rear tub has turned into my messy work bench
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220201/6822a7ed363a5c5789d500876a13ef70.jpg)
The next hour I go back I'll have to clean........aka throwing it all in a box in the corner
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Post by: Craig B on February 01, 2022, 12:47 PM
Post by: binch on February 01, 2022, 07:08 PM
Post by: grizzlychicken on February 23, 2022, 11:16 PM
So still sanding. Haven't got one of those paint gauges yet that mike suggested. I have though figured out that when you get white frothy wetness when wet sanding it is clear I'm peeling off and you can tell when you hit the base as it changes to slight blue froth.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220224/b0686e966cb7e87f6a5f961176819ced.jpg)
Burnt through in somes spots but will need to rebase so will touch up when I do. The bulk of the sanding is done and coming up ok.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220224/d2d29157f05d1f2eb16efc20eafa225c.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220224/bd689d2de280bd8c3d18a6f664f616e8.jpg)
Ok now to reconfigure the garage and rebuild the paint booth so I can paint multiple bits at once.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220224/c75c2c09ac5dffbd21ee88084d48fe5e.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220224/78c7e4134db424556c29b95e927a2e63.jpg)
Ok that turned out pretty good. Have an air extraction fan with 2 furnace filters which allows air in for a bit of a downdraft booth.
I also reconfigured my paint setup. This paint stuff is fussy! It is technical enough to make a living painting if your good
So new gun, the sata hvlp 1.3. I then changed up all my fittings to higher flow. I was chatting to a paint friend and researching and fittings can be an issue. Smaller fittings apparently will force more air velocity at the nozzle which can affect application.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220224/bd3cc34f141bef8bf196dd64e2eb1af0.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220224/4e9e78c652d8c68c33e843f13581c696.jpg)
I am also adjusting the pressure at the compressor rather than the gun. The regulator I was using on my previous setup narrows the air flow closer to the gun and can then again affect air velocity to get the volume, or so I'm told anyway!
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220224/334a2932c76d008979b7b4fd5d041e24.jpg)
Anyway these princess auto guns I think will be ok for epoxy primer and fill primer but the new gun will be the shizzle for base and clear!
Tomorrows job is to prime and paint the tub! Just contemplating if I should bother using the base color on the floor and the wheel wells when they will just get covered with carpet........
Oh and had to make a hole for the new marker lights. The new left panel didn't have a cutout for the light for some reason.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220224/d1e97a4ab119667974edd9c81575fe55.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220224/12931da6a825cdc0c4a4825a0e8fe690.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220224/aa598913bd8ff519402f9df2260dd86e.jpg)
Got another full day in the shop tomorrow so let's see how far I can get with this painting thing!
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Post by: grizzlychicken on February 25, 2022, 10:33 PM
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220226/4f44d7e216c1e99773ac810292df3405.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220226/64998dcfb2b9d79aad9523f2eb8f25aa.jpg)
Here I used sealant and some dum dum to really seal the corner. The rear tub floor attaches to the frame here in the floor well area and bolts to the cross member on each side. The rear panel is then riveted to the b Pilar.
Happy with how it turned out.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220226/6065af8373cab19ed3eeffa7318387fe.jpg)
Now onto priming with epoxy primer. First peeping and taping things up.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220226/bf1191567cc56dc60be5f24a33509fae.jpg)
Now onto priming.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220226/ff5540c265fbe0f0198e679b5030f1cf.jpg)
Think I'll have to sand the primer a bit and apply another coat tomorrow. Think my pressure was a little high. Used 40psi but looked back again at the specs and the primer asks for 10......lots of floating paint. Sigh....should really read the label before pulling the trigger...
Now off to bed!
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Post by: binch on February 26, 2022, 12:06 AM
Post by: grizzlychicken on October 02, 2023, 08:43 AM
So finished repainting and reclearing my rover and pretty happy. Still has a bit of orange peeling here and there but overall way better than before!
It didn't help that my good compressor lost compression half way through the clear coat and had to finish using a pancake compressor........spray.....wait for it to recharge....spray half another panel.......wait for recharge......
So today I reinstalled the rear tub cappings. They are galvanized and powder-coated over top. Found some nice black rivets which match the look pretty good!
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20231002/527aee8f758e21ff489423c0146a896b.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20231002/35846b8217b6dd4f7afab8ed10937deb.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20231002/1cc25d3f0013f4fa060034fa4c2eaef7.jpg)
My wife calls my defender "the Cookie Monster"
Just about to add the rear window back in and kind of shocked of how little connects the rear tub to the rear window. Does it really just sit on a compressed seal???? That is crazy.......
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Post by: binch on October 02, 2023, 10:43 AM
Great to see your thread start up again.... I was missing it!!!!
Post by: Red90 on October 02, 2023, 11:25 AM
Quote from: grizzlychicken on October 02, 2023, 08:43 AM
Just about to add the rear window back in and kind of shocked of how little connects the rear tub to the rear window. Does it really just sit on a compressed seal???? That is crazy.......
What exact window are you talking about? Side windows are rivetted. Back and alpine windows use window seals with locking strips. Back door uses a piece of aluminum to hold it in place. If it is the ones with a locking strip, I can lend you the tool as it makes it easier to do.
Maybe post a picture of what you are talking about.
Post by: grizzlychicken on October 02, 2023, 07:59 PM
Quote from: Red90 on October 02, 2023, 11:25 AMSo the attachment points seem to sinch the window support panel to the tub but the "weight bearing" part of the window support upper panel seems to be mostly via compression of the seal. Ie is weight transferred from the upper window panel to the tub by just the seal pressure? Doesn't seem to want to sit on the tub......Quote from: grizzlychicken on October 02, 2023, 08:43 AM
Just about to add the rear window back in and kind of shocked of how little connects the rear tub to the rear window. Does it really just sit on a compressed seal???? That is crazy.......
What exact window are you talking about? Side windows are rivetted. Back and alpine windows use window seals with locking strips. Back door uses a piece of aluminum to hold it in place. If it is the ones with a locking strip, I can lend you the tool as it makes it easier to do.
Maybe post a picture of what you are talking about.
The fixings clamp the top panel to the tub (corner cappings) and looks like you can adjust how much force you put on the bolts etc. How much force would you recommend putting on these bolts? So it compresses the upper window panel right to the tub?
a bit freaky that it is really 2 large washers holding the circular bolt clamp in place in the corner and by the rear door....
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20231003/ae6cac43d4e930896002cb195c2d663e.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20231003/14bf9736605444a5b9472a1cd096b4a6.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20231003/a3cc5c17cafdc71e9b313a36ff306d71.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20231003/e116b6af4ed4c1cb27f44e37f0393130.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20231003/5a3e7e7de32840ecad65bf1ae99b2a88.jpg)
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Post by: Red90 on October 02, 2023, 08:24 PM
Post by: Alex C on October 02, 2023, 09:54 PM
Post by: grizzlychicken on October 02, 2023, 10:22 PM
Quote from: Alex C on October 02, 2023, 09:54 PMThanks alex! Makes sense. So the corner is the only load transfer spot? The attachment point next to the rear passenger door doesn't look like it contacts the upper windshield panel. It has a tube on the tub capping here but the square hole doesn't support the tube here. And next to the rear safari door there is no tube. Looks like the load is transferred in the bracket here.... Just trying to figure out the way the roof load transfers to the window panel and then load transfers to the tub. Have a new roof to put on!
The raised tube on each corner is the place that sets the height ant transfers load, the seal just fills the gap
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20231003/94b3afeba16b5fc2c3e29d24733f6d5e.jpg)
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Post by: Red90 on October 03, 2023, 08:53 AM
Post by: Red90 on October 03, 2023, 02:07 PM
I always thought the Dormobiles were the nicest design. But the Alu-Cab are the current cool kid on the block.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sf1nG4mOU3I&list=PL6dHJg46iIbURZgM6P7twTon8sLBGbg3s&index=2
Post by: grizzlychicken on October 03, 2023, 10:49 PM
Quote from: Red90 on October 03, 2023, 02:07 PMYes just surprised how little structure is in this piece. The b Pilar and c Pilar's seem to transfer load well. Just skeptical of the load transfer at the rear of the 110. The rear tub's top cap does transfer some load through the c Pilar though so maybe I am not trusting the engineering enough!
Oh. I see the picture now. You are putting a 4 million dollar pop up roof ;) onto the truck and wondering how the breadstick sides will prevent it from collapsing. Apparently it seems to work. Don't ask me how. I would not sign off on it. I'm not sure if anyone tries to strengthen the sides.
I always thought the Dormobiles were the nicest design. But the Alu-Cab are the current cool kid on the block.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sf1nG4mOU3I&list=PL6dHJg46iIbURZgM6P7twTon8sLBGbg3s&index=2
I love the look of the alucab! And love that you can have a rack on it when using it!
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Post by: grizzlychicken on October 05, 2023, 06:19 PM
Bit for the side pieces.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20231006/461726f2f3ff266dab2a0d39ae4656a2.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20231006/e0130b066db47da4ecf08ef4acbcc097.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20231006/e5b59303a48b438b359e2129cee4b0ac.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20231006/4656e5151850d54bac002c3e9ce434aa.jpg)
Then went to do the rear tub to window brackets but couldn't find them anywhere! I remembered I got a bunch of little parts powder coated so think I found them. Are these the right brackets? Look right to me.....(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20231006/727f580af7cc8b9e8aca5b41485786f7.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20231006/f8bb7885dc7dae55ca27befb262d3f19.jpg)
They look pretty beefy so perhaps my faith is restored for connecting the tub to the rear window!
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Post by: binch on October 10, 2023, 11:10 PM
Post by: grizzlychicken on April 01, 2024, 10:47 PM
No takers for my free bent and rusty old defender 110 chassis so off to the metal recycler tomorrow! I might get a whole....$30 for it. Not quite enough to cover the Canmore to calgary trip! Oh well have errands there anyway!
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240402/fc27b3d6278aeb6160e0a0328980579c.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240402/958297df730ee77a6689e6c1c0c9c7a6.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240402/51b04a6cc5ec27224c6a59cc26f86dfb.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240402/d4cc245d11cb4ed03fe89c4d5bf37d0b.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240402/cf40ee6f254d9816bdf39cd89d590e64.jpg)
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Post by: binch on April 02, 2024, 10:31 PM
Enquiring minds need to know LOL