Defender TD5 Rebuild

Started by grizzlychicken, April 18, 2020, 06:14 PM

Previous topic - Next topic

GR8PMKN

This is an absolutely amazing project.  You're going to be so proud of it.  I don't think I'd want to take it outside after all that work!  Can't wait to see more progress, and the final product!!

grizzlychicken

Thanks! I'm glad at least 2 people are reading this!

No update for awhile as real work and life gets in the way! 
Today finished mounting the b Pilar cross member. Shims worked a treat!




Then cleaned up the wiring running on the rails and to the ecu compartment and mounted the seat box.


I have replaced all the fasteners with a4-80 stainless steel and installed new seals.  Looks very industrial.

Then installed the transmission tunnel to bulkhead bracket. Sealed it and fixed it with new stainless steel screws.



Then threaded the ecu loom back into the seat box


Well I'm not a great "clean as you go" tinkerer. Probably because I only have an hour here and there sometimes so will focus on getting tasks done and then don't have time to clean up!
The rear tub has turned into my messy work bench


The next hour I go back I'll have to clean........aka throwing it all in a box in the corner


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Craig B

This is just great to follow along. Thanks so much for taking the time to post your progress!!

binch

Keep 'em coming!   This has been great fun following along with you progress.    There's light at the end of that tunnel...Just can't tell which colour  ;D
Cheers, Bill

grizzlychicken

Well back into the garage over the last few days. Covid in the household is forcing me to isolate in the garage

So still sanding. Haven't got one of those paint gauges yet that mike suggested. I have though figured out that when you get white frothy wetness when wet sanding it is clear I'm peeling off and you can tell when you hit the base as it changes to slight blue froth.

Burnt through in somes spots but will need to rebase so will touch up when I do. The bulk of the sanding is done and coming up ok.



Ok now to reconfigure the garage and rebuild the paint booth so I can paint multiple bits at once.


Ok that turned out pretty good. Have an air extraction fan with 2 furnace filters which allows air in for a bit of a downdraft booth.

I also reconfigured my paint setup. This paint stuff is fussy! It is technical enough to make a living painting if your good
So new gun, the sata hvlp 1.3. I then changed up all my fittings to higher flow. I was chatting to a paint friend and researching and fittings can be an issue. Smaller fittings apparently will force more air velocity at the nozzle which can affect application.



I am also adjusting the pressure at the compressor rather than the gun. The regulator I was using on my previous setup narrows the air flow closer to the gun and can then again affect air velocity to get the volume, or so I'm told anyway!

Anyway these princess auto guns I think will be ok for epoxy primer and fill primer but the new gun will be the shizzle for base and clear!

Tomorrows job is to prime and paint the tub! Just contemplating if I should bother using the base color  on the floor and the wheel wells when they will just get covered with carpet........

Oh and had to make a hole for the new marker lights. The new left panel didn't have a cutout for the light for some reason.




Got another full day in the shop tomorrow so let's see how far I can get with this painting thing!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

grizzlychicken

#275
Buttoned up the rear tub today. The critical part of connecting the tub to the door Pilar's is really around the c Pilar.


Here I used sealant and some dum dum to really seal the corner.  The rear tub floor attaches to the frame here in the floor well area and bolts to the cross member on each side. The rear panel is then riveted to the b Pilar.
Happy with how it turned out.



Now onto priming with epoxy primer. First peeping and taping things up.

Now onto priming.


Think I'll have to sand the primer a bit and apply another coat tomorrow. Think my pressure was a little high. Used 40psi but looked back again at the specs and the primer asks for 10......lots of floating paint. Sigh....should really read the label before pulling the trigger...
Now off to bed!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

binch

Cheers, Bill

grizzlychicken

Well lads it has been awhile :) I had to put this project aside for a bit as other priorities came up! Plus got a bit discouraged with having to sand all the clear off etc! I have come to the realization that I don't have to make it perfect! Particularly since this is really my first crack at painting a vehicle!

So finished repainting and reclearing my rover and pretty happy. Still has a bit of orange peeling here and there but overall way better than before!

It didn't help that my good compressor lost compression half way through the clear coat and had to finish using a pancake compressor........spray.....wait for it to recharge....spray half another panel.......wait for recharge......

So today I reinstalled the rear tub cappings. They are galvanized and powder-coated over top. Found some nice black rivets which match the look pretty good!




My wife calls my defender "the Cookie Monster"

Just about to add the rear window back in and kind of shocked of how little connects the rear tub to the rear window. Does it really just sit on a compressed seal???? That is crazy.......


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

binch

Think about it this way.....if you ever lock your keys in the truck you can  "pop out the window" and get them again LOL ;D

Great to see your thread start up again.... I was missing it!!!!
Cheers, Bill

Red90

#279
Quote from: grizzlychicken on October 02, 2023, 08:43 AM
Just about to add the rear window back in and kind of shocked of how little connects the rear tub to the rear window. Does it really just sit on a compressed seal???? That is crazy.......

What exact window are you talking about?  Side windows are rivetted.  Back and alpine windows use window seals with locking strips.  Back door uses a piece of aluminum to hold it in place.  If it is the ones with a locking strip, I can lend you the tool as it makes it easier to do.

Maybe post a picture of what you are talking about.

grizzlychicken

Quote from: Red90 on October 02, 2023, 11:25 AM
Quote from: grizzlychicken on October 02, 2023, 08:43 AM
Just about to add the rear window back in and kind of shocked of how little connects the rear tub to the rear window. Does it really just sit on a compressed seal???? That is crazy.......

What exact window are you talking about?  Side windows are rivetted.  Back and alpine windows use window seals with locking strips.  Back door uses a piece of aluminum to hold it in place.  If it is the ones with a locking strip, I can lend you the tool as it makes it easier to do.

Maybe post a picture of what you are talking about.
So the attachment points seem to sinch the window support panel to the tub but the "weight bearing" part of the window support upper panel seems to be mostly via compression of the seal. Ie is weight transferred from the upper window panel to the tub by just the seal pressure?  Doesn't seem to want to sit on the tub......
The fixings clamp the top panel to the tub (corner cappings) and looks like you can adjust how much force you put on the bolts etc. How much force would you recommend putting on these bolts? So it compresses the upper window panel right to the tub?
a bit freaky that it is really 2 large washers holding the circular bolt clamp in place in the corner and by the rear door....







Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Red90

I'm not sure I understand your problem or concern. Attach as per the diagram you posted. It just bolts down in the four locations.

Alex C

The raised tube on each corner is the place that sets the height ant transfers load, the seal just fills the gap

D90 200Tdi     67 S2a 88"

grizzlychicken

Quote from: Alex C on October 02, 2023, 09:54 PM
The raised tube on each corner is the place that sets the height ant transfers load, the seal just fills the gap
Thanks alex! Makes sense. So the corner is the only load transfer spot? The attachment point next to the rear passenger door doesn't look like it contacts the upper windshield panel. It has a tube on the tub capping here but the square hole doesn't support the tube here. And next to the rear safari door there is no tube. Looks like the load is transferred in the bracket here.... Just trying to figure out the way the roof load transfers to the window panel and then load transfers to the tub. Have a new roof to put on!



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Red90

What exactly are you thinking the roof will be doing? They have no strength beyond holding it there. Zero rollover protection. Zero structural strength.