Defender TD5 Rebuild

Started by grizzlychicken, April 18, 2020, 06:14 PM

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Matt H

100% you need to add the sealer in the locations shown. Very common among all manufacturers. You don't need much, but you do need it. 
No Road Except For Land-Rover.

grizzlychicken

Quote from: Matt H on July 02, 2020, 09:54 AM
100% you need to add the sealer in the locations shown. Very common among all manufacturers. You don't need much, but you do need it.
Awesome thanks Matt. Pretty much what I thought. Just when you think your moving ahead and it looks pretty you tear it apart again :)
Looks like it is just applied to the engine block side of the gasket on the rear oilseal and the block face near the front. It doesn't look like they are recommending to do the sump side between the gasket and the sump.

Well off to work again!


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grizzlychicken

Ok so not quite as easy to remove the sump while installed on the chassis but worked ok. I can see now why you need the silicon with the front cover join and the join on the rear crank oil seal.

Biggest concern was to line up the locating holes on the crank seal with the sump gasket. Think I hit it well though as it is sitting right and the bolt pressure is all good :)

Now  I have the drivetrain installed!


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grizzlychicken

Now lookin at planning the rest of the rebuild and I am planning to do that in systems.
My thoughts in order were:
-Exhaust system including mounts and gaskets
-break system- lines and abs sensors(part 2 will be break controller after bulkhead install)
-fuel system - tank, filter, fuel lines and associated clips
-electrical looms - at least the frame rail loom at this point
-then bulkhead paint and install

Think that is a good way to tackle it. Once the bulkhead is in there is quite a bit of electrical to tackle which I think I should do first.

Would you completely paint and clear coat the bulkhead before installing it or would you save the final coats to do in situ?

Once I have the bulkhead, the b/c post and frame rail and then seat box installed I think I can button most of the systems up before dong the interior.

Oh still a bunch of work ahead.....


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Matt H

For myself I'd do as much as could to the bulkhead while it's off the chassis. That would include as much of  the wiring and dash etc as possible. The reason being ease of access. Once mounted you need to constantly step over the chassis rails and reach behind/around the Engine & gearbox etc.
It will make for a heavy piece of bodywork to lift into place but with an engine picker it's no problem.


I can be done either way but I like to make things as easy as I can.
No Road Except For Land-Rover.

ugly_90

There may be photo or video footage of defender production in factory. They had likely worked out the most efficient assembly and seemed to work with completed modules.

As far as painting and clearcoating the bulkhead, there is probably half of it that can be seen without lifting the hood or crawling under once the vehicle is complete. I used truck bed coating for the hidden parts before assembly, but there's probably a range of coatings that would work, particularly on galvanized.

it's usually cheaper to paint individual parts and assemble, rather than a big paint job in the end. Often the less work you farm out the better on small parts. The money spent on a compressor and cabinet blaster evaporates quite quickly when spent on outside labour.

binch

Galvanise it and paint it off the truck, along with the battery box.  Matt has a great idea of building the bulk head up before installing it...just for access that sounds like a great idea.

Great job so far!!!
Cheers, Bill

grizzlychicken

#127
Good advice again guys! After thinking about it the bulkhead is really the pivotal piece that everything  hangs on or attaches too so makes sense to get that going and Matt I like your idea about getting most things installed. I imagine you mean brakes clutch reservoir, electrical
and dash components/ heater etc.
So think painting it makes sense before that.

Started on the bulkhead today. Lots of work on cleaning up the galv and rethreading and tapping holes and of course scotchbrighting the surface to give the paint a surface to stick too. Still have to seal it too with pantable caulking. Will follow that caulking guide you can finds online.

Here is my bulkhead working setup:


Lots more hours to go on this one.


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grizzlychicken

#128
Here is the link to the water ingress doc:
http://www.landroverweb.com/Pdf-files/Manuals/Land_Rover_Defender_Water_Ingress_Manual.pdf


Oh one issue with the galv is that it filled in the vent screen holes in places so I either replace it or perhaps wire brush it, but I think that the galv will be too strong for just a wire brush, or drill the individual holes maybe.........


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grizzlychicken

Ok not pretty but sealed!





This stuff is super sticky! Gloves for sure!


Think I hit all the seams. What seams do you guys normally have issues with?


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binch

I would be easier to ask me which ones don't leak on mine ahhahahhahahahha ;D
Cheers, Bill

grizzlychicken

Epoxy primer done for the bulkhead. Will sand with 320 then body fill if needed. I imagine most don't fill any of the engine bay or foot wells as you can't see them. I plan to leave them a la natural! I will high build fill prime and sand the whole thing I think. Then color and clear it. Plan to color and clear the whole bulkhead before I install it dressed.





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grizzlychicken

#132
Still working away on the bulkhead and got it fill primed today. Planning to sand in the morning and shoot color and clear on Tuesday.

In the mean time my webasto coolant heater wasn't working properly. I had taken it to the webasto dealer in Calgary and they tested it and told me to get a new one. The issue was it was dropping to below 8v in start up. To me that was a short somewhere that was pulling the voltage down and causing a low voltage error. Webastos go into error shut down if the supply voltage drops too low, I think below 9v. The dealer recommended a new brain so I did that and had the same error.

So I checked the resistance in the glow plug and it read pretty much an open circuit. Time for some webasto open heart surgery!

Here is my bench testing setup


A few red flags. I have the webasto testing software and was getting the same error code the dealer got. There was an obvious voltage drop and the wires got super hot when the glow plug operation started.

So pulled the guts out and decided to replace the burner unit which includes the glow plug. It gets pretty crusty and the ceramic part of the plug gets stuck so hard to remove(for me anyhow)

Tested the circulation pump and the fuel pump and they were both intermittently functioning too, so they will need replacing.

So new burner went in


And new circulation pump and got new plastic as the old plastic was faded. Then polished the case up and turned out pretty good!




Old bits:



Now ready for install:


Pretty reasonable too. I ordered the replacement bits on eBay for around $200. A new unit is over $1000.
This should help keep the cab warmer!


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binch

I didn't see anything about testing it after the new pump and burner....  Did everything test out good after the transplants?
Cheers, Bill

grizzlychicken

Quote from: binch on July 13, 2020, 08:40 PM
I didn't see anything about testing it after the new pump and burner....  Did everything test out good after the transplants?
It's sitting on my work bench waiting for some love :) plan to do it in the next few days.

In the mean time I finished priming, shooting the color and clear and I'm pretty happy how it turned out. Especially since painting isn't really my forte!

After the epoxy primer I shot on a high build primer then wet sanded it with 600grit. This was super messy. I shot the high build everywhere and in hindsight should have just down the visible panels as it creates way more work. Think moving forward the interior/covered panels will get epoxy primer, color and clear and the exterior will get the high build and wet sand.

Here is after the wet sand:






And......wait for it...... here is after color and clear:






Really happy with my blue beastie! Will have black accents when it's all done. There is a bit of orange peeling here and there but that should sorted by a good cut and polish at the end :)

Now onto building up the bulkhead once the paint dries!


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