Author Topic: Defender TD5 Rebuild  (Read 1523 times)

binch

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Re: Defender TD5 Rebuild
« Reply #45 on: May 01, 2020, 06:27 PM »
If it were me......I would leave the frame galvanizing intact and weld some mounting feet onto the pegs that go into the old bumper.    Since you aren't using the military bumperettes those feet can be bolted into the frame via the bolt holes on the chassis that are normally used for the inside bumperette mounts.    That way you keep the strength and integrity of the chassis nice new finish.   In fact....if the bumper hasn't been galvanized yet then once you've finish welding the feet on, and have the hold drilled out get the pumper done too ;-)

If I'm not mistaken the chassis' you got on that order were https://www.britpart.com/parts/chassis-and-body-components/chassis-complete/kvd500730hd

I'm rather surprized the body mounting tabs welded to the chassis though :o    Did they include tabs with the chassis?????
Cheers, Bill

grizzlychicken

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Defender TD5 Rebuild
« Reply #46 on: May 02, 2020, 12:55 AM »
If it were me......I would leave the frame galvanizing intact and weld some mounting feet onto the pegs that go into the old bumper.    Since you aren't using the military bumperettes those feet can be bolted into the frame via the bolt holes on the chassis that are normally used for the inside bumperette mounts.    That way you keep the strength and integrity of the chassis nice new finish.   In fact....if the bumper hasn't been galvanized yet then once you've finish welding the feet on, and have the hold drilled out get the pumper done too ;-)

If I'm not mistaken the chassis' you got on that order were https://www.britpart.com/parts/chassis-and-body-components/chassis-complete/kvd500730hd

I'm rather surprized the body mounting tabs welded to the chassis though :o    Did they include tabs with the chassis?????
Yes I think it is a britpart frame. Not sure who manufactures those for them. Is it marsland? Yup I was uppeised about the body mount tabs too. Yes the tabs do come with the frame.

I think I see where you’re going with the hitch. I would prefer not to drill or weld on the finished chassis and want to get that planning sorted before I start to put it all back together.
So something like this (excuse the bad sketch)



Something like this bad sketch might work. As long as it will hold up to the hitch forces


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binch

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Re: Defender TD5 Rebuild
« Reply #47 on: May 02, 2020, 10:30 PM »
Yup, that's what I'm thinking.    I was just looking at cutting the post back to it's stump and welding the mount to the stump.   Making the foot plate connect between that old stump and over to the bolts in the bumper should support it well.
Cheers, Bill

grizzlychicken

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Defender TD5 Rebuild
« Reply #48 on: May 07, 2020, 12:24 PM »
Thanks for the input bill. I may even weld the corner protectors onto that piece...

Ok so when I rebuilt the transfer case I chatted to the head honcho at Ashcroft and he recommended changing the output shaft of the transmission. The output shaft splines often get worn which is another eventual reason for loss of drive to your wheels. My spline wasn’t to bad some minor rounding but it was all apart so now was the time to do it.  With installing a new input gear in the transfer case this made sense so I ordered a shaft and the transmission rebuild kit. I also had a wobbly input shaft so I knew I at least had to replace the bearing there but decided on that shaft too as the splines for the clutch plate also had some wear.


The oils plug had some metal filings so think it was a good choice to do the r380 overhaul.

For
First cover plate off and gears were looking good with little wear.  The challenge with all of these is removing the collar that secures the housing on which is press fit. It is a bugger to remove!

So got it apart on my workbench where it honestly stayed for a few months. I had trouble with removing the main shaft bearings as you can see in this pic and I needed to pretty up the casing. Now I was replacing the shaft but needed the gears to get to the next step. Unfortunately my shop press was sitting in a provincial parks workshop and they closed access so had to try to make an alternate puller. You can have a chuckle at my attempts :)

This worked for pulling the lay shaft bearing.

Had trouble with the main shaft. Tried it under the gear but the high tensile bolts that come with the puller weren’t long enough and the threaded rod uprights and puller clamp bolts were too flexy. I had the threaded rod would closer to end of the shaft too and unsuccessful. This attempt had the pushing bolt too extended so it levered and flexed away from the shaft Centre.


I thought I was cleaver but this didn’t work at all!


Destroyed the bearing but this was the clear winner. Had to make the top bar out of square tubing and drill a hole for the shaft locator bolt. You can see the threaded rod was stripped at one point!


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« Last Edit: May 07, 2020, 12:50 PM by grizzlychicken »

grizzlychicken

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« Reply #49 on: May 07, 2020, 12:44 PM »
From there I had my shafts stripped and went to the local welding shop to get some various diameter pipes to use to press the new bearings on.



I then had a go at making a transmission stand by welding some scrap angle together. I’m not re best welder but this worked.

Here is the contraption while test fitting the outer casing and checking the end float. At this point all of the bearings including the needle rollers had been replaced and all the syncro rings were replaced and everything was pressed back to the right tolerance on the main shaft.

I cleaned out the casing with the parts washer then sandblasted it and polished it with a wire brush before painting it and curing the paint in the oven. I put this in another thread but it came out great!









Home built press for the final collar.

Super happy with how it turned out and now have a virtually new box!


Next will be steering box blues......


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« Last Edit: May 07, 2020, 12:53 PM by grizzlychicken »

binch

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Re: Defender TD5 Rebuild
« Reply #50 on: May 07, 2020, 07:10 PM »
I was going to rebuild my steering box but it was far cheaper to buy a rebuilt one from BP.

Well done Shane!!!!
Cheers, Bill

grizzlychicken

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« Reply #51 on: May 14, 2020, 01:06 PM »
Well Bill, the cheapest “rebuilt” steering box I found was on eBay for around £280 so 500 bucks plus a core charge. New boxes look around 800-1000 plus. Thought the seal kit at around $20 was worth a crack. Steering box is in process but in the mean time I’ve been rebuilding my brakes.


Pulled them off the truck and decided to get 2 new rear calipers


So had them powdercoated along with the front calipers and picked up a stainless piston set and new seal kit.



Spent some time rebuilding the calipers

Unfortunately the powder coating had some overspray on the lip for the dust caps. So had to scrape it back to bear metal.

The next challenge was to install the dust caps without bending them! Lots of advice online about this but I ended up using a g clamp and flat piece of metal to get a square insert.

And just like that I have a new set of nice looking brake calipers that should outlast me!



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binch

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Re: Defender TD5 Rebuild
« Reply #52 on: May 14, 2020, 09:49 PM »
what are the nuts for (on the caliper) that were painted too? ???
Cheers, Bill

grizzlychicken

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Re: Defender TD5 Rebuild
« Reply #53 on: May 17, 2020, 10:31 AM »
what are the nuts for (on the caliper) that were painted too? ???
So the bolts that were powdercoated are mostly to split the caliper. I powdercoated them as I don’t see myself splitting the caliper. There is a smaller bolt on the rear caliper near the brake pipe bleeders that I powdercoated too. To be honest I’m not sure if it’s function. Perhaps a bleeder? I haven’t used it when bleeding the brakes in the past. I figure if it ends up being neede to be functional I’ll just change the bolt


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grizzlychicken

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Defender TD5 Rebuild
« Reply #54 on: May 17, 2020, 11:34 AM »
Ok so as you can see from an earlier post my steering box was in bad shape, even the case had significant corrosion along with the inner parts including shafts having significant wear.
So found that the disco at pick and pull had its steering box still so time for open heart surgery!


So the box I pulled had obviously been leaking so hoping I wasn’t exchanging bad for bad!


However as I cleaned it up it was obviously not corroded and much easier to pull down cleanly





I didn’t have the specialized oversized Allen key type socket for the large recessed socket so found actually that a set of vice grips fit nicely in the points of the groove and by using a screwdriver between the jaws it camed out the jaws to allow it to lock in and be able to turn the oversized socket



So wanted to clean it up and paint but the internal bearings are supposed to be non serviceable. I removed the guts and sealed the unit by using thick plastic while holding it in place with the existing cir-clips which worked a treat!


So then into the home made sandblast cabinet made from an old dishwasher.


The seals held up great so then parts washer:


Then etch prime:




Paint with engine enamel
 

Then the rebuild of the guts!
The output shaft is commonly corroded and the new shaft ha some seal lines but not nearly as bad as the original box shaft.

So wet sanded the shaft with 1000 grit sandpaper and the seal surface cleaned up perfectly.

Then rebuilt the box with all new seals, setting the preloads with my hand scale:


Happy with that and went on to reinstall the drop arm. Here is the defender droparm side by side with disco droparm.


And now pretty happy to have a rebuilt box!



Fingers crossed it stays liquid tight!


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« Last Edit: May 17, 2020, 11:40 AM by grizzlychicken »

binch

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Re: Defender TD5 Rebuild
« Reply #55 on: May 18, 2020, 11:13 AM »
Well done sir!!!!   I hope it works well too!

I gotta ask.....did you grow up on a farm or in a logging camp, as a kid?

You are doing a bang up job with this tread Shane!
Cheers, Bill

grizzlychicken

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Re: Defender TD5 Rebuild
« Reply #56 on: May 19, 2020, 09:29 PM »
Well done sir!!!!   I hope it works well too!

I gotta ask.....did you grow up on a farm or in a logging camp, as a kid?

You are doing a bang up job with this tread Shane!
Ha thanks Bill. No farm or logging camp. I grew up in rural Australia in a town of 30,000. Always liked cars and tinkering though. Had a 76 volkswagon kombi van that I pulled the engine and trans down and had the trans rebuilt for a circumnavigation of Australia in ‘94 I think. I tinker with lots of stuff :)

 


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binch

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Re: Defender TD5 Rebuild
« Reply #57 on: May 19, 2020, 09:57 PM »
Well it shows you have the gift ;)
Cheers, Bill

grizzlychicken

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« Reply #58 on: May 23, 2020, 12:08 AM »
Started to tackle the differentials and suspension rebuild.
For the front diff the swivel housings has some good wear and this is part of the reason that there is some leakage here.

So I ordered 2 new swivel housing kits and while they were coming I decided to strip both differentials down and have the powdercoated
After getting these puppies back from the powdercoater it is always a good idea to power wash and scrub the inside. They sandblast these casings before powdercoating so I wanted to get rid of any residual particles. A toilet cleaning brush I picked up for $5 at the hardware store taped to a broom handle worked a great to clean out the shafts.


After inspecting the stub axels on the front I found they had some wear too so decided to do stub axel, new wheel and cv bearings and seals. It will be like a new axel :)




So the new stub axels arrived and one side was perfect! The other side not so much. During manufacture of this Bearmach stub axel the threaded end was miscast and the wheel bearing nut wouldn’t thread on.

Bearmach were really good about replacing the stub axel and It arrived within a week. My only issue was I had installed the bushing, bearing and seal. Fortunately I had another seal and when I talked to Bearmach they were confident I could reuse the bearing and bushing.


Ok let me tell you it is quite a challenge to remove the bushing and the bearing. For the bearing I ended up using a curved tire iron to carefully tap it out. Success!
For the bushing I used an angle grinder to cut a slot just below the bushing at 180 degrees to each other. Then heated the bushing by up and used a couple of screwdrivers to pry the bearing off.


Success again!
.


So got the front axel together now


Next onto the rear Salisbury!


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« Last Edit: May 23, 2020, 12:12 AM by grizzlychicken »

grizzlychicken

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Re: Defender TD5 Rebuild
« Reply #59 on: May 24, 2020, 11:49 PM »
Ok so I wasn’t finished here yet........

Had a bolt shear off when I went to stake the wheel nut. Dam it!
So had to drill it out.

Then used an extraction tool to get it out.

At least it wasn’t too stuck in there.


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