Front Diff Replacement

[JohnnyO]

I am considering replacing the front differential on the 1994 NAS D90.  It has 320K kms and slack in the drive train.  I have already replaced the transmission and transfer case so the diffs are next.  Let's be clear, I hired someone for the tranny and t-case.  This time it's going to be the Land Rover turning the owner into a mechanic!  I am open to any thoughts, expertise, encouragement and wrenching assistance.  So here goes, wish me well...

My research has shown this is 3.54:1, 4 Spline, 4 Bolt Flange.  Does that sound right??

I am thinking about ordering a rebuilt diff.  Thoughts??
Rovers North

Ashcroft


Is the replacement really this straightforward??

[Red90]

It makes sense to get a better diff, as it will be stronger and have less backlash.  Ashcroft 4 pin or ATB or a used stock 4 pin, if you can find one.

Then the last thing to consider is the half shafts, CVs and drive flanges.  They may have wear as well.  But you could always go back. It is easier the second time.

Happy to come around and offer support.

As to the work, you can do it the way in the video, pulling the entire assemblies or by pulling the hubs and spindles.  I usually do the latter as you can replace the hub seal, check the CV out and adjust the hub bearings.  Just make sure you have the right seals, gaskets and washers on hand.

Happy to help out.

[JohnnyO]

Thanks John.

I'm okay doing this in stages, there's no rush.  What should I be looking to tackle first?  If the easiest and/or highest value areas can be identified, we can start there.  Once that's in place, move on to the next bits, and so on.

[Red90]

Well.  You might as well do the diff first.  It is the most likely cause of the backlash.  Am I right that you already did the drive flanges?  Those are a common location for wear.

[JohnnyO]

Oh yeah, I forgot about the drive flanges.  I'll start there.

Are the HD Ashcroft ones the best bet? P/N 859 (Land Rover part number FTC859 which supercedes to RUC105200)
https://ashcroft-transmissions.co.uk/product/859/

Will these work with the NAS alloy wheels?

Are the flanges the same front and read?  I'm thinking I might as well do all four corners.

[Red90]

Yes. Those are the right ones and a good choice.

The rear axles would not have flanges if they are original. They should have one piece halfshafts with integral flanges.

[JohnnyO]

Confirmed, rears are one piece




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[JohnnyO]

Pulled apart the front to take a look...


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[JohnnyO]

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[JohnnyO]

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[Red90]

Slide the drive flanges back on. Be careful not to push the CVs in as they can fall off the spindles.

Rotate them back and forth and see how much free play there is between the two parts. When new, there should be no play.

[JohnnyO]

Hmm OK, so now I'm up against a bit of  of a challenge. It's looking like a 52
mm socket to get the hub nut off.  I'm seeing these on the Landy sites but does anyone know of a local Calgary supplier?



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[JohnnyO]

With the drive flanges back on there isn't a whole lot of free play - some but not much.  I suspect new ones will be tight but I'm going to say this not the majority of the slack.

[Red90]

Britpart DA1118

https://www.lrdirect.com/da1118-1-2-inch-drive-52mm-deep-socke