Series motor

[Amac_519]

Ive got a print out of one of them. Id like to at least be able to check them from underneath before i pull the motor

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[Red90]

I'll stick them up on the server tonight.  A quick scan of the manual shows the oil pressure relief valve is adjustable and removable from the side of the block.  Probably pop the valve out, clean and adjust first.  Pump comes out with the sump pan off.  Looks like every other oil pump.

[Amac_519]

Thats what ive seen. Pretty hard to get at. May have to take my starter off again. I have a few spare gears for the pump but i dont know if they would be better or not

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[Amac_519]

So i took the regulator out and it looks fine i guess. Not really sure what to look for but nothing was chipped or worn out looking

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[Matt H]

Sounds like classic pump failier to me. All engine oil pumps have a certain amount of slip, that is internal leakage, that is used for lubrication of the pump itself.  As the pump wears this internal leakage gets worse until it can no longer provide the pressure needed. This shows up in testing by starting with good oil pressure (especially at low rpm) when cold with worsening pressure as the engine warms up.

With thick, cold oil at low rpm the pump can keep up with the engines requirements but as the oil warms up and rpm increase too much slippage occurs and the pressure drops off.

Also check for restrictions at the pump inlet. Sometimes they get gunked up and will allow sufficient flow at low rpm but not high rpm.

Either way it's worth doing as Red90 suggests and pull the oil sump to take a look. Worn pumps will show signs of obvious wear on the pressure side.

My 2c.

[Matt H]

If it were a pressure regulator issue you would likely never see full system pressure at any temperature or rpm.

[Amac_519]

I put the regulator back in and played with it and it didnt seem to change anything whether it was cranked in or backed right off. Ill see if i can drop the pan and check the pump. Ive got a pretty mean tap too. Maybe a piston hitting a valve. who knows

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[Matt H]

Without full pressure lubrication knocks and taps are to be expected. It's not good but it's also not the end of the world. These are tough old engines and will soldier on with some pretty serious wear.

If it turns out to be the pump before renewing it I would take the big end bearings off and the crankshaft main bearings inspect the crank and bearings. These areas see the force in an engine and suffer the quickest from a low oil pressure situation.

[Amac_519]

And ill need to pull the motor for that right? Ill let it sit for a while again as its in a puddle right now and kind of annoying to work on.

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[Matt H]

It's easier on a engine stand obviously but you can do it on the vehicle if need be. With a couple of  bearings caps off you can inspect the bearings and rotate Crank and check for problems.  After all you are just looking for where or what the problem is right now so you can decide what you should do about it.

However, the situation is that if you drive it with low oil pressure you risk burning up the engine, in which case the engine will need to come out. If you want to rebuild or re-seal and refresh the short block the engine will need to come out. And if you go for an engine swap the engine will need to come out too. It's not difficult to remove a Series engine. With a hoist, a decent set of tools and a 6 pack of beer it take about two hours.

[Red90]

Put it on some ramps to get a bit of space.  It is designed to be worked on in the middle of nowhere with a few hand tools.

I uploaded the manuals.
Workshop manual, see section A0 for the details on checking out the pump.  Starts on page 74 of the PDF: http://alre.club/Manuals/Series%202%20Workshop%20Manual.pdf

Parts Catalog: http://alre.club/Manuals/Series%202%20&%202A%20Parts%20Catalogue.pdf

To remove - Operation A0/2
1. Drain the oil and remove sump.
2. Slacken the locknut securing oil pressure adjusting screw, then remove screw, washer spring, plunger and ball (which may remain in the pump and can be removed when the pump complete is withdrawn).
3. Remove the pump locating screw.
4. Withdraw the pump, leaving the drive shaft in position.
5. If necessary, withdraw the oil pump drive shaft.

[ugly_90]

Ok, this is another thread that went a bit sideways again.

1. Your 1958 engine was siezed, but you freed the stuck rings, and it ran for awhile and now it's running poorly.

2. Your bores and/or rings are shot. I'm not a scientist, but going from siezed pistons to moving ones does not make a new engine. You need a complete strip down, inspection, and rebuild. A 1958 engine needs the attention of a full rebuild.

3. I used Curtis at Extreme, and was very pleased with the work, and the reasonable turnaround. He disassembled and cleaned two four cylinder 2.5 NA part-engines, head and accessories were already stripped by me. One of the engines, the better of the two, was checked, bored to round, rehoned and the top of the deck was milled. It was checked with supplied pistons and rings. New supplied prefinished bearings were installed in the 12J. I note that noone has fitted prefinished bearings in 11J yet without trouble, another independent  machinist is also having trouble with that one. For Curtis' work, he charged me $685.

All remaining parts were returned disassembled in boxes, as I had asked. You could likely receive a lower bill for completely stripping a block and sending it in. One of mine had very black oil and bad bores I didn't want the mess of full disassembly on that one.

As I expect you're likely not a mechanic, or have a half dozen engines laying about, needing to triage them, I would suggest you have Curtis rebuild the engine as well as do the machine work. This seems to be around $2K in labour for a four cylinder, and is money well spent.

" It should be really simple, any machine shop should be able to handle it ". In practice, I didn't find this to be the case. Larger shops were much more comfortable handling GM, Ford, Chrysler engines that they do every day. Communication from one of the bigger shops was a problem.  They seemed more interested in moving the job out then in giving any advice or opinion. I tried a much smaller machine shop familiar with tractor engines, but health problems were a factor for him.

A good machinist is as hard to find as a good mechanic.

[Red90]

As he has said power and compression are good so there is no cause to need a rebuild with the information available. An engine being stuck is not a death sentence.

Look into the cause of the the oil pressure problem and he should be good to go.

If a rebuild did happen, any local machine shop would be fine for the little machine work required. There is no need to send the engine to Calgary.

You need to be cautious how to proceed with a 2.0 as many parts are not produced and NOS parts are very costly.

[Amac_519]

The motor still runs great. Electric pump primes it and it will fire right up and idle fine just loses the oil pressure. Im liking the idea of just checking the oil pump and seeing if its wore out. $2000 seems like a lot more than id like to spend on this motor considering i bought the whole vehicle for less than that but ill keep it in mind. Ive had the head off a couple times now and i thimk i can get more parts for the 2.0 from a guy in england that i bought a full gasket kit from. Shipping is a pain though

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[ugly_90]

More armchair mechanicing  ;)

"The motor was siezed when i got it and i got it freed up with good compression across the cylinders but they are scarred and i cant keep oil pressure for more than 20min or so"

To me, again, a layman, siezed engine + scarred cylinders = worn bores and low oil pressure. There seems to be a habit to expect anything Land Rover to be uniquely robust, and a simple or cheap fix. This was probably true during the manufacturer's warranty when the engine was still new. Strip the engine, measure the bores, and tell me I'm wrong.