window motors

Started by TJay, March 25, 2020, 10:02 AM

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TJay

I'm feeling kinda dumb here, but being that electrical stuff is not my strong point, is there anyone that can tell me how to bench test the window motor? Also maybe someone has some insight as to why the windows and sunroof will not work? It's a "96 D1, I got a used window ecu from Gardiner's, Florida but no joy there, also tried the Atlantic British rear window fix and no joy there either. Any ideas would be great. It makes it a real pita at Timmy's drive thru lol.
Thanks and have a great day,
Tom

binch

Okay, I know this is going to sound daft but.....fuses???? ???
Cheers, Bill

Matt H

Check the fuse. If ok

Check you have power & ground at the switch. If ok

Pull the door card and check you have power & ground at the motor connector. If ok

Disconnect wiring harness connection and jump 12v to one terminal, ground to the other. Doesn't matter which way you try first. Then try the other way.

If it doesn't work then you need a regulator.

If the window works then you have continuity but the circuit can't carry the amperage required to move the window.  This requires you to chase down the cause. Burnt connectors, damaged/corroded wiring etc.
No Road Except For Land-Rover.

binch

Now that sounds more like a problem solver there  ;)

Well done Matt!!!! ;D
Cheers, Bill

TJay

Thanks a lot Matt. I've definitely checked fuses,( I think we have all forgot to do that I know I have ) I have also pulled the drivers side card so I'll check for power and ground. What boggles me is why the whole window system would quit working. I'll report back later.
But to add insult to injury I went to go out to the shop where the truck is (about 5 miles) and my '97 would not start - no crank syndrome, so I've got to figure that out today as it's my daily driver :o, I'm thinking bad ground, the small wire to the solenoid or dead starter.
It never rains just pours ;D
Thanks again Matt and Binch,
Have a great day everyone and stay safe,
Tom

Matt H

If it's the entire power window/sunroof system that is not working then I'd start looking at common 12v inputs like the fuse and fuse relay panel. They can become corroded or damaged from high draw systems such as motors, overheat the relays or connections on the back side and cause this type of issue.

As for the other unit. Do your regular checks for battery and starter but don't overlook the neutral safety switch (auto) or Clutch Safety switch (manual). That's another one that can lead you down the garden path.
No Road Except For Land-Rover.

TJay

Had borrow a vehicle to run out and get tools so gave the new motor I got a bench test, hooked it up like you said Matt and nothing either way. I also had an old one out so tested it as well and nothing. They don't ground to the regulator either because the threads are set in the plastic housing. It's got me stumped, it is a simple motor so that should work, am I still missing something? Ok later I've got to try and get the other one going.
Thanks, Tom

Red90

#7
Do you have the electrical troubleshooting manual?  If not, let me know and I'll show you where it is located.  There is a section on power windows. It goes through everything in detail with a step by step checkout procedure.

As to testing the motor.  Two wires.  One to ground, one to power.  Try both ways.  Is that what you tried?


TJay

Hi Red90, I do have the rave electrical troubleshooting manual but if you could let me know where it is so I can see if it is the same, that would be great.
As for the motor, yup that is how I did it, I even tried grounding the motor body and putting 12v to each pin separately still no go.
I got the '97 running today (started by its own volition) but I will still have to track down whats up with that, at least I will be able to get out to the shop.
There is no internet out there so I won't be able to update until tomorrow evening.
Thanks, Tom

TJay

I just got back from more troubleshooting, Does anyone know off hand if there should be power coming out of the ecu? Key on, power into ecu, no power out and no power at the back of the switches. Bad ecu? Is it feasible to wire in a completely separate switch and bypass the ecu? Except I still can't get a motor to work on the bench, tried everything I can think of :-\ now I got brain hurt lol

Matt H

Not to try and sound like a smart arse, but you know there are multiple fuses on a D1 for the power windows right? There is the one under the steering wheel inside the cabin and another in the engine bay fuse box. If none of the windows are working I'd check all those fuses again, just to be sure.

The window lift is a simple two wire dc motor. Make sure when you test it the jumper wires are connected well enough to carry the current required to operate it.

Now all this is a little hazy as i have not worked on a Discovery 1 power windows for a year or two. But I've had many a battle with them over the years and I just checked out one of my parts units for a reminder.

At the ECU, Pins 5,8 and 3 are all fused 12v input. Pin 6 is ground. Pins 3 and 7 are outputs to the left front power window. Depending on if the ECU is commanding up or down, one will 12v the other ground and vice versa for the opposite direction. Pins 1 and 5 are inputs from the left front power windows switch.

At the window switch, pins 1 and 2 go to pins 1 & 5 respectively at the ECU. These are command inputs to the ECU. Pin 4 is ground and pin 6 is illumination.

Clear as mud? Hope that helps.
No Road Except For Land-Rover.

TJay

Hi Matt, I will check the fuses again as it was a few months ago that I did check them (ya never know, worth a try).
As for the motors sounds quite possible, I'll see if I have an actual connector that will fit and try that.
As for the ecu, I don't suppose you would have a spare you would be willing to part with? I would actually only need the circuit board, the housing is still in the truck. If you do PM me and we'll work out a price etc. And you weren't sounding like a smart arse, it's always worth double checking.
Have a great day,
Tom

Matt H

It won't have the chance to test one until the weekend but I've probably got a good ECU kicking around somewhere. I'd have to mail it, I'm down in Medicine Hat.

No Road Except For Land-Rover.

TJay

That sounds great Matt, the only other options I've found are a couple of real sketchy ones off fleabay or one from Brit-car (new old stock rather pricey) but they aren't shipping until ?? The big reason I need to get the '96 on the road is that I have some fairly major stuff to do on the '97, front end, springs, bushings, a bunch of rust issues etc. so I'll probably have it in the shop for a month or so.
I really appreciate this Matt so let me know what you come up with and we'll take it from there.