Help - D2 axle seal flange

[locknload]

Battling front axle oil leaks ever since I changed wheel bearings and ball joints. New seals installed - leaked. Installed speedi-sleeves and new seals - leaked.

Want to give it one more go. I believe its a flange problem. They have been taken off one to many times and are loose and worn. Speedi-sleeves not working and they may be the problem.

The flange is not available without buying the whole new half shaft assembly which I don't want as I have HD half shafts.

What is the dimension of where the flange is installed?
Anybody have the flanges they can spare?

[Trevor]

What is the dimension of where the flange is installed?
Anybody have the flanges they can spare?

The Ashcroft chrome moly's I used to run were 2.75 on the raised portion of the axle where the dust seal flange you are pointing out engages. I believe the stock shaft has the same OD on the raised portion.

[Trevor]

I believe the stock shaft has the same OD on the raised portion.

Actually check that, I think I may have that wrong. I had a quick look on Ashcroft's website and they have a side by side pic of the ends of the half shafts...

https://www.ashcroft-transmissions.co.uk/cv-joints/disco-ii-cv-and-front-shafts.html

...and the stock one does not look like it has the same OD where that flange runs. Their commentary also indicates that there half shafts are thicker than the stock ones.

[locknload]

OD is fine what I need is where the flange is located on the shaft.

[Trevor]

OD is fine what I need is where the flange is located on the shaft.

Ok, that one I can't help with. Both my chrome moly or 300m's have a thicker portion at the end of the shaft prior to the splines.  The the dust flange slides onto that thicker portion and binds into place. I just adjusted that fitment based on the full engagement position of the axle into the diff. I simply tapped the flange as far back as possible so it sat flush. That flange fitment worked fine with the chrome moly's.

Worth noting it doesn't work at all with the 300M's as they're several thou thinner overall (they gain additional strength through flex). So mine leak all the time. Are you running 300M shafts as well? Because that would explain your leakage problem. 

[binch]

"So mine leak all the time. Are you running 300M shafts as well? Because that would explain your leakage problem."

LOL...just holding on to the tradition of claiming territory  ;D

[Trevor]

"So mine leak all the time. Are you running 300M shafts as well? Because that would explain your leakage problem."

LOL...just holding on to the tradition of claiming territory  ;D

Exactly!

[locknload]

I think I have it sorted, time will tell. After new ball joints and wheel bearings the axle was to low at the seal. Almost equal both sides so I'm thinking the moog ball joints are not quite the same as the originals or the knuckle tapers where stretched. The workshop manual kind of skips over the tension collet and axle height adjustment and couldn't find any info on-line besides not to touch them.  I painfully adjusted the collet and got the axle centered with the housing as close as I can. I had new flanges machined and sourced genuine LR seals which allow for some misalignment. While I had it apart I was able to determine the flange depth. It was a learning experience but I can now pull the front end apart in record time.

[Red90]

I've found Moog parts to be really poor quality on other vehicles.