'66 Series 2a SWB Wagon for sale

Started by Already a Rover, January 14, 2019, 02:40 PM

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Already a Rover

Its a sad day, but I have decided to part with my '66 SWB Series 11a Safari Wagon.   :'( :'( :'(

I won't go into great detail, but the truck is in excellent shape, with lots of time and money spent on it, including a new galvy frame and rebuilt 2.25l engine.  Growler gets about 25mpg, and will quite easily do 80 mph.  Lots of detail, like sound-proofing, new window felts, new tires and wheels, OD, 2" exhaust, added guages and the one-piece floor mat.  Interior is all sealed-up, Kodiak 3 heater, and a divider between the cab and rear cargo area, so you will be toasty-warm in the winter. 

The paint on it is fairly new, but was not that good to start with, and I have put a few small dents in it.  I'm a bit out of touch, and anyway not a big market up here in Canada, so I'm wondering what would be a fair price, and if I'd have better luck if I gave Growler a new paint job. 

Other than here, Guns and Rovers and Hemmings, where else to post an ad?  I'd rather sell local, but with the exchange rate, it should be worth it to go to the US.

I attach some pics.  If you are interested, lots more to say, of-course.  I think if you message me, I'll get a notification, but will be checking back as well.


Already a Rover

FYI, I've settled on 19K - paid 15 for it, and have done a ton of work on it, including a completely-rebuilt motor.  Will post more info here tonight.

Already a Rover

I'm please to offer to the true Land Rover enthusiast a Robin's Egg Blue, 1966 Short Wheel-Base Series 2a Safari "Station Wagon."  Some of you will know it.  My knowledge of this vehicle goes back to the previous owner, who has restored many British vehicles, and purchased this specimen 15 years ago for his wife, as a memento of their years together in the British Army in Rhodesia. 

Back in the Glory (?) Days in Rhodesia - Pic #1
           

The vehicle was driven occasionally for 5 years, at which time it suffered a collision.  The owner took this as the opportunity to bring the vehicle back to almost-new condition: 

Mechanical work included: stripping the truck down to the frame, which was replaced with a new galvanised (then undercoated) one, replacing worn or aging components with new and/or improved ones - Fairy Overdrive and complete new wiring-harness, alternator upgrade, radiator upgrade, new brake and fuel lines, gas tank, brake drums, leaf-springs, shocks, front hubs, "lady's step" and a custom-made replica of a vertically-adjustable Sankey Trailer Hitch are among the work completed, for which all receipts are available.  All work was done to a high standard, as demonstrated by the fact the current owner has not had to repair any aspect of the previous owner's work (with the exception of a loose Starter mounting bolt – you know the one).

Bodywork Included: removing, replacing or repairing all panels to new condition, repainting the engine-bay, body panels and cabin inside and out with Endura paint, with the exception of the doors (for which replacement panels were lost).  Additional dash-panel was fabricated to house a period clock, tachometer and emergency flasher to the left of the steering-wheel. 

The Maiden Voyage after the Restoration - Pic #2
       
The current owner (myself) purchased this vehicle in 2014.  His primary contribution has been to address weaknesses to the design in general: lack of power and cabin noise-primary among them:

Lack of Power:   The engine was removed and rebuilt with 40-over pistons, re-ground crank, ACR Performance Cam and 9-1 compression gas-flowed head.  Distributor re-balanced and tuned, with Pertronix electronic ignition installed.  The exhaust upgraded to 2" (at which time the vehicle received the nickname: "Growler").  The engine has been completely reliable over a full year's driving, will easily reach 80mph, and uses fuel at a rate of approximately 25mpg (Canadian gallons).   

Cabin Noise:  The cabin, doors, engine bay, bonnet, tub and fenders were prepped and many square feet of highest-quality Contrained Layer Dampening (CLD) vibration-dampening tiles installed as per the manufacturer's instructions.  The new exhaust was wrapped with insulating tape for sound as well as heat insulation ("hot foot").  An acoustic-dampening, moulded 1-piece floor mat was installed on the cabin floor and under the seats, along with a custom insulated head-liner, insulated custom door cards and a transparent partition between the front and rear cargo area. The rear bench seats were removed, and removable 1/2" sound-dampening closed-cell foam mat with heavy-duty outer liner installed (leaving a very clean and usable rear cargo area).

Miscellaneous Additional Work:  Replaced stock wheels and rims, removed one leaf-spring from all four corners, purchased custom-made aluminum console, built and installed a rack for guns/rods/equipment between cabin and storage area.  Cracked steering wheel repaired with epoxy and repainted, Kodiak 3 heater added, emergency brake pads replaced with softer pads for better grip, replacement of all window felts, windshield-washer pump and lines installed, Volt-meter added, raised alternator-bracket installed (for wading), gimbal-mounted cup-holders, locking fuel cap assembly, door-hinge bearings replaced. 

Pics 3,4,5
   
Current State of the Vehicle: 
I consider Growler to be a reliable vehicle and have taken it on many multiple-day-long fishing trips.  You will get used to driving without synchro.  With one leaf-spring removed, there are limits to where it can be driven, but between that and the wider tires, city-driving is much improved. There are still a few things which need to be done mechanically, such as a slight leak in the radiator (or maybe it's a hose), the fuel guage is somehow out of calibration (but "E" still means EMPTY), and some of the door seals are not perfect (hah).   The latch for the hood/bonnet is broken – I use a shovel, which I have in the truck anyways - it lifts it higher so you don't hit your head.  And I will not lie: it is still loud in the cabin above 60 mph (transmission), but in the city, absolutely fine, and – believe me – you will get a lot of appreciative looks.
 
Pics 6 and 7

Aesthetically, yeah, it is awesome and of-course butt-ugly at the same time.  Inside, with the new paint on the dash, nice floor mat and the custom console, it is pretty darn amazing, and weird at the same time.  The heater kicks-ass.  The plastic divider got cut last year when someone broke into the back, and I've taped it up (not great).  The main thing is, if you are picky, it could use some bodywork:  The removable canopy was poorly-painted (runs are visible), there are a few dents inflicted by me, and overall the bodywork prior to the previous paint job was lacking.  I believe he painted it himself (but it's sticking – no peeling or bubbles).  The doors will need some rust repair – there is some bubbling in the bottom corners.  I have some of the metal, but not all.  I would just replace the bottoms and be done with it. And the driver's seat needs to be re-done, but is very comfortable, so I haven't fixed it.

It is not out of character for a Series Rover to be somewhat rough body wise, and you will find many who consider it a working vehicle which only suffers a great paint-job until it gets a chance to pick-up a scrape or two.  Nonetheless, if it was re-painted, you might even get the Queen to take a ride in it (again).  I am part-owner of a body shop, so if you really want it painted, we could talk about that.  Personally, it has always been my fishing-wagon, and I wouldn't want the paint to be too nice - it wouldn't last. 

Extras: The truck will come with a few other bits and pieces:

•   2 or 3 boxes of assorted parts, some useful;
•   Land Rover books: histories, repair manuals (Haynes and Land Rover), and the Green Parts Manual. 
•   A Throttle-Body Injection system from a 2.5l Ford, which will bolt straight onto the intake manifold, and has the air intake pointing in the right direction.  You will still have to fabricate a surge tank, connect the throttle to the TBI, and fabricate a few bits to mount sensors on – but a boss for the O2 sensor is already welded into the exhaust.

Why am I selling it?  I used to fish by myself.  When I go fishing now, we take the GF's Subaru – it gets better mileage, has a bit more room, and is quiet.  I currently own a business which sells electric vehicles exclusively – and we also convert classic cars to electric.  My next truck will be electric: a Bollinger B1 – still looks like a Rover, but: "Look Ma – no gas!"

Last Pic

Matt H

Paint the doors! List it for $25K + at least and put it on eBay & bring a trailer that will w up south of the border.

My 2c.
No Road Except For Land-Rover.

Already a Rover

Hi Matt - thanks, you are the second person who said I should paint them.  They actually need new bottoms (got any?), but if I did paint them, I'd lean toward painting them white again (but would then give-in and paint them blue).  The whole truck kinda needs new paint.
it is new, but the bodywork wasn't that great, so....

I posted it on Guns and Rovers, and have had folks there tell me it is worth $US at least 15K.

I now own a business, 1/3 of which is a body shop, so unless I can get a good dollar for it now, will have it done.  I suppose ordering new doors would not be a big deal, but you probably know how it is: once you start something, you kinda have to do it right, so would probably end up ordering new door seals etc....  I'm not up for the hassle, but it would be worth it if I had the time.

Matt H

Was this Fread's old Rover?
Anyway, for sure paint the doors. If it looks unfinished, then it is and that will reflect on the price you can achieve. A few small dents is not the end of world but if there is a ton of orange peel or runs in newer paint then to get a decent dollar you should strip it back. Weather stripping needs to good or totally gone, it's cheap and there isn't much on a Series Rover so I'd do that too.

With semi restored Land Rovers of this sort I've found it pays to know your market in the US. Before I started working full time again I used to restore and sell classic cars and Land Rovers down there often. Full  complete projects with little or no rust sell well but by bringing them up to what I call "Sunday Standard" you tend to get the best price for the time, money & effort invested. That is, a little wear and amateur refinishing is tolerable but it has to look original/period correct and smart enough to take to a Sunday car show.

Offering shipping also really helps with US buyers. You don't haul it yourself, unless you want to, and the costs are added to the selling price. But it can make all the difference. Remember this will be an expensive, fun toy for the new owner so anything you can do to make them feel good about it will help get a good sale.

This is just my personal experience but I hope that helps. As I remember it that is a nice unit!
No Road Except For Land-Rover.

Red90

I have a pair of door bottoms that I could sell if you went that way.  I agree, if you want $20k, you will need to have matching door colour and I would re-cover the driver's seat bottom.  I wouldn't go crazy.  Make it look original and put on the lipstick.

Already a Rover

Hi Matt and Red.

Yes, of-course this is Fred's old Landy, I reckon I've done enough work on it to get beyond that description, but yeah.  I appreciate your advice, and with the doors being offered like that, will-do.  I guess the white doors are like the freckle on your girlfriend's face: you come to like it after awhile, but I'll do it. 

Red, I'll see if I can pm you my details.