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Parts for Sale / Re: Noco 2 Battery Waterproof Charger
« Last post by Red90 on September 21, 2021, 02:31 PM »Bump
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Technical Discussions / Re: Rebuild effort on a 2.5NA?
« Last post by ugly_90 on September 20, 2021, 09:33 AM »That is a handsome red engine, Alex..
Certainly, the engine he has in his LR now needs to crane out onto a pallet, no more engine repair work in frame or at a mechanics shop. Cover off intake, exhaust manifolds and fuel lines, and back of a pickup for a pressure wash at the carwash.
He'll be limited by time, money, tools, workspace, and ability to decide on which path to take next.
If he has all those things ready to go, one could try a home rebuild, following all manuals and disassembly/reassembly instructions, photographing and numbering everything as it comes apart and then goes back together.
He'll likely still need to visit a machine shop for most of the short block and head. The head will be need to be inspected, tested and any needed repairs made.
Maybe a bit of learning might be lost, but I don't think it would be a total fail to farm out all the short block and head to the machine shop at least, that's still alot of labour for him to take on, and I don't think you'd save much time or money with DIY there.
I'm still voting with Matt and Bruce though, send the long block out, and pay your $2700 labour bill on your own supplied parts.
Certainly, the engine he has in his LR now needs to crane out onto a pallet, no more engine repair work in frame or at a mechanics shop. Cover off intake, exhaust manifolds and fuel lines, and back of a pickup for a pressure wash at the carwash.
He'll be limited by time, money, tools, workspace, and ability to decide on which path to take next.
If he has all those things ready to go, one could try a home rebuild, following all manuals and disassembly/reassembly instructions, photographing and numbering everything as it comes apart and then goes back together.
He'll likely still need to visit a machine shop for most of the short block and head. The head will be need to be inspected, tested and any needed repairs made.
Maybe a bit of learning might be lost, but I don't think it would be a total fail to farm out all the short block and head to the machine shop at least, that's still alot of labour for him to take on, and I don't think you'd save much time or money with DIY there.
I'm still voting with Matt and Bruce though, send the long block out, and pay your $2700 labour bill on your own supplied parts.
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Technical Discussions / Re: Rebuild effort on a 2.5NA?
« Last post by Alex C on September 19, 2021, 09:58 AM »its an easy engine to rebuild, all of the literature is available in PDF on line.
Fuel Pump (worth sending the the UK hard to find a local supplier that understands the setup for LR)
The cylinder bores may need a re-sleeve most engine shops can do that. or at least get you to oversize
The cam bearings may need replaced, if they do its best to buy unfinished and finish them in the block, hard to find a local supplier, if you buy pre-finished bearings its 50/50 that that will work
Head is straight forward, skim and checking the bores for pre-combustion cups is key
Crank is straight forward polish or cut order bearings to suit
Cam is polish or replace
Tooling wise its basic hand tools, a good engine stand, some good measuring tools Digital Vernier and inside/outside micrometers. a decent 3/8 and 1/2 torque wrench does not need to be snap-on, the Mastercraft will do.
You don't have to go far to find a couple of used 2.5D engines , and if you find one another one may follow you home.
For tear down take a lot of photos of each step, bag and mark the parts in small batches, water pump, front cover, exhaust etc, makes it simpler than rummaging through a bucket af part 2 months down the road.
Be selective when you buy your parts, anything that is critical buy OEM or genuine, bearings, rings, seals, bolts, theirs a few things were you can take a chance on a value part, just make sure its easy to get to and if it fails wont blow the motor.
example, valve cover gasket, sure but the cheap one, head gasket buy the best. Oil pan bolts, sure take a chance on some from the nut and bolt shop, con rod studs and nuts buy the best.
its a great engine to build from the block up if you have the tools, basics skills and time. What's the fun in farming it out unless your running a business and the math's makes sense.
Time wise what is the rush do it over the winter, mark the fasteners that you have torqued along the way.
If you do your own build the only thing you save is the cost of labor , parts machining you will not save much, you have to buy or have the tools, may be an investment, satisfaction of building your own engine and the knowledge it will give you for future troubleshooting and trail repairs = priceless.
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Fuel Pump (worth sending the the UK hard to find a local supplier that understands the setup for LR)
The cylinder bores may need a re-sleeve most engine shops can do that. or at least get you to oversize
The cam bearings may need replaced, if they do its best to buy unfinished and finish them in the block, hard to find a local supplier, if you buy pre-finished bearings its 50/50 that that will work
Head is straight forward, skim and checking the bores for pre-combustion cups is key
Crank is straight forward polish or cut order bearings to suit
Cam is polish or replace
Tooling wise its basic hand tools, a good engine stand, some good measuring tools Digital Vernier and inside/outside micrometers. a decent 3/8 and 1/2 torque wrench does not need to be snap-on, the Mastercraft will do.
You don't have to go far to find a couple of used 2.5D engines , and if you find one another one may follow you home.
For tear down take a lot of photos of each step, bag and mark the parts in small batches, water pump, front cover, exhaust etc, makes it simpler than rummaging through a bucket af part 2 months down the road.
Be selective when you buy your parts, anything that is critical buy OEM or genuine, bearings, rings, seals, bolts, theirs a few things were you can take a chance on a value part, just make sure its easy to get to and if it fails wont blow the motor.
example, valve cover gasket, sure but the cheap one, head gasket buy the best. Oil pan bolts, sure take a chance on some from the nut and bolt shop, con rod studs and nuts buy the best.
its a great engine to build from the block up if you have the tools, basics skills and time. What's the fun in farming it out unless your running a business and the math's makes sense.
Time wise what is the rush do it over the winter, mark the fasteners that you have torqued along the way.
If you do your own build the only thing you save is the cost of labor , parts machining you will not save much, you have to buy or have the tools, may be an investment, satisfaction of building your own engine and the knowledge it will give you for future troubleshooting and trail repairs = priceless.
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4
Parts for Sale / Door Seals
« Last post by mike.heathcote on September 16, 2021, 03:49 PM »Selling 83ft of rubber door seal (DA2007).
https://www.lrparts.net/da2007-1-metre-of-land-rover-series-door-seal.html
I bought a 100ft roll, ended up using (a LOT) less than anticipated. Cost me $80 plus shipping to get it here.
$60-ish and it's yours! Located in Edmonton.
Thanks,
Mike
https://www.lrparts.net/da2007-1-metre-of-land-rover-series-door-seal.html
I bought a 100ft roll, ended up using (a LOT) less than anticipated. Cost me $80 plus shipping to get it here.
$60-ish and it's yours! Located in Edmonton.
Thanks,
Mike
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Technical Discussions / Re: B.C Forestry Land Rover identification
« Last post by Red90 on September 13, 2021, 08:18 PM »
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Technical Discussions / Re: B.C Forestry Land Rover identification
« Last post by AndrewG on September 13, 2021, 07:58 PM »Thanks Bill, Any Idea if this colour was carried on through the 60's?
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Technical Discussions / Re: Rebuild effort on a 2.5NA?
« Last post by TJay on September 13, 2021, 07:37 AM »I ran across these guys a little while ago as I'm looking at rebuilding a 4 litre, they look pretty good, www.crossaxledcustoms.com, they sell complete engine rebuild kits among a lot of other stuff and the prices look good.
Tom
Tom
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Technical Discussions / Re: Rebuild effort on a 2.5NA?
« Last post by camo388 on September 13, 2021, 12:13 AM »I found a receipt for an engine done in Sept. 2015.
Tear down & inspection $250, De grease parts $250, Glass bead parts $100, De glaze cylinders $80, Resurface block $145, Glass bead & prep Pistons $100, Polish crankshaft $80, Magniflux Head for cracks $75, Resize valve guides & size ($10 each) $80, Set Injector cup heights $100, Resurface cylinder head $100, Std valve job, 8 valves, $160, and finally Assemble engine $850. Total of $2370.00 Then shop supplies were 5% of total = $118.50 and 2 cans of spray paint $25.
Grand total with GST is $2639.18 The engine came to me with fuel pump fitted so I could install in frame then fit injectors, fuel lines, intake and exhaust.
This engine was from a Suffield 110 so had no idea of it's history, (driving or storage) so I thought it best to have it rebuilt before I tried to start it and cause any serious damage.
The fuel pump was sent to Taber Diesel Service and the total was $1754.51 which included shipping to Curtis's shop in Calgary. I see on the invoice I was charged $60, (1/2 hour) to check fuel injectors but I found buying them from UK was much cheaper so no repairs were done.
I also found a list of parts with a total of 599.44 Pounds but this included VAT which you shouldn't have to pay. So I'm thinking this is a working list and not what I actually paid when ordering through the ALRE club. Today's exchange rate is British Pound = $1.75 Cdn. So even taking parts total as 500 Pounds then that comes to $877. There were likely shipping and Duty to pay as well so total more than likely $1100 to $1200 range?
The parts list was gaskets kits (overhaul and cylinder head), all new valves and rocker arms, rocker shaft, main, con rod and cam bearings, piston rings, hot spot (injector cup) and timing belt and tensioner assembly. All OEM from Turner Engineering or Ashcroft in the UK and shipped to John Barge in Calgary.
Overall total using $1200 for parts, is about $5600 in 2015. This should give you a pretty good idea of your costs though your parts costs will likely vary.
Tear down & inspection $250, De grease parts $250, Glass bead parts $100, De glaze cylinders $80, Resurface block $145, Glass bead & prep Pistons $100, Polish crankshaft $80, Magniflux Head for cracks $75, Resize valve guides & size ($10 each) $80, Set Injector cup heights $100, Resurface cylinder head $100, Std valve job, 8 valves, $160, and finally Assemble engine $850. Total of $2370.00 Then shop supplies were 5% of total = $118.50 and 2 cans of spray paint $25.
Grand total with GST is $2639.18 The engine came to me with fuel pump fitted so I could install in frame then fit injectors, fuel lines, intake and exhaust.
This engine was from a Suffield 110 so had no idea of it's history, (driving or storage) so I thought it best to have it rebuilt before I tried to start it and cause any serious damage.
The fuel pump was sent to Taber Diesel Service and the total was $1754.51 which included shipping to Curtis's shop in Calgary. I see on the invoice I was charged $60, (1/2 hour) to check fuel injectors but I found buying them from UK was much cheaper so no repairs were done.
I also found a list of parts with a total of 599.44 Pounds but this included VAT which you shouldn't have to pay. So I'm thinking this is a working list and not what I actually paid when ordering through the ALRE club. Today's exchange rate is British Pound = $1.75 Cdn. So even taking parts total as 500 Pounds then that comes to $877. There were likely shipping and Duty to pay as well so total more than likely $1100 to $1200 range?
The parts list was gaskets kits (overhaul and cylinder head), all new valves and rocker arms, rocker shaft, main, con rod and cam bearings, piston rings, hot spot (injector cup) and timing belt and tensioner assembly. All OEM from Turner Engineering or Ashcroft in the UK and shipped to John Barge in Calgary.
Overall total using $1200 for parts, is about $5600 in 2015. This should give you a pretty good idea of your costs though your parts costs will likely vary.
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Technical Discussions / Re: B.C Forestry Land Rover identification
« Last post by binch on September 12, 2021, 11:08 PM »I found this one a few years ago.....
https://offroadaction.ca/2018/05/11/1951-land-rover-photos-from-the-bc-archives/
Somewhere in the plethora of pics I have is a pic of the Canada Indian Affairs Branch, Series 1 at the lambert homestead on the alexander Mackenzie trail, complete in it original patina of orangish redish brownish colour
https://offroadaction.ca/2018/05/11/1951-land-rover-photos-from-the-bc-archives/
Somewhere in the plethora of pics I have is a pic of the Canada Indian Affairs Branch, Series 1 at the lambert homestead on the alexander Mackenzie trail, complete in it original patina of orangish redish brownish colour
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Technical Discussions / Re: Rebuild effort on a 2.5NA?
« Last post by ugly_90 on September 12, 2021, 12:35 PM »I seem to remember it was like $2K in labour for disassembly and rebuild in Calgary. My parts cost seemed to be about $4K including the rebuilt injection pump and injectors rebuilt with genuine parts. You can get that parts bill down lower with overseas parts, but it's a bit of a false economy on engine internals.