Alberta Land Rover Enthusiasts Club Forum
General => Technical Discussions => Topic started by: dijansmith on March 17, 2022, 08:29 AM
Good morning,
I am looking for anyone who has repaired or has info on bulkhead repair. To date have seen a few Youtube videos (Rover Tasmania) but looking for more... IE Spot weld versus rivets. I have started to cut out the foot wells and any other rust corrosion issues. Please feel free to reach out to me and even if you have a bulked kicking around.
Dion
Hey Dion, on my series 2/88 my bulkhead was generally in good nick, except for the footwells. I have a series of photos which you can refer to? I had is sandblasted and that exposed all the rust holes ! For the footwells I then basically cut along the crease of the foot panel leaving as much of the rest of the bulkhead edge to attach the bottom of the footwells. I then got some galvanize sheet metal the same thickness as the original footwells, used the remainder of the old footwells as patterns and cut them out. I also marked the 'ribs' then laid a section of solid rod the same size and length as the 'ribs' and pounded with a hammer my cut sections to form 3 ribs in each panel and drilled 'weld' holes all the way around the edge of the bulk head floor. I fitted the new foot well sections into the bulk head and with a cheap Princess auto non gas MiG welder and 'spot' welded the panel in place from engine side of the bulk head . After some grinding, that's how good a welder I am! I painted with 2 coats of POR 15 and 2 coat of Endura paint. I hope I've explained it well, I have a bunch more pictures if you want. Also I haven't got my 88 on the road so I don't know how this will stand up? Cheers Craig
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VERY GOOD write up Craig ;) (where's the thumbs up emoji....?)
Well now we are getting somewhere...This is absolutely what I am looking for...I will post some pics later today. Also, Are using the air chisel mainly to break the spot welds?
I for sure have to replace:
both foot wells complete (purchased)
the Bulkhead leg adapters (one has a seized bulkhead bolt, well piece of one anyways. Tried to heat and press out, no luck. (purchased new ones)
I am almost down to the frame (inline 6cyl. and axles still attached).
Again, any info is great info!
Keep in mind I have two LRS...The other is also a 109 but a two door. (I might sell if I get the right price.)
Dion
Hey Dion, yup used the air chisel to break the spot welds and anything else it would separate, my restoration project is a little more complicated, I didn't take it apart, but picked it up in pieces! I tell people I got, 'I think' 1 1/2 LR's in jars! Anyway its been a challenge for putting together, not the original chasse (got galvanized), a 2.5 na diesel rebuilt from a 90, have 2 gearboxes (series 2 and 2A?), bell housing from series 3, had 2 engines ( the 2.2 and series 1 petrol?), traded it with a club member to help me get in on a rolling chasse, to say helped, I held the light! I'm glad I was able to help with information as a pay back all the help I have received from club members! thanks folks! Cheers Craig
I cannot leave any attachments? IE pictures.
one picture!
Looking good!
always good to see a proper landy resurrected ;)
Thanks guys,
I will plan on keep it pretty original to the point my dad had it that is... I plan on keeping the chevy in-line six and a couple other add-ons my dad had done. Things like frame repairs and etc I want to keep accurate/original. Has anyone replaced the door sills that connect bulkhead to the frame? I am planning on removing BOTH sides and repairing them now since I have purchased them.
I still cannot figure out why my pictures only loaded up yesterday when I have made several attempts to place them on the forum.
Well I am looking for info on the install of my bumper. I have a new bumper and the extensions (I thought it was just the bumper but there was a few inches of rust on the rails, there was more!). I have a measurement (39 3/8" from the C/L of the hanger/bushing) but appears to it. I asking if anyone knows of or are there any tricks that keep alignment and distance correct? I can tac weld some straight metal pieces, but just making sure.
Tack some angle iron to help with alignment. Land Rover's famous "tolerances" ensure every unit is somewhat unique. Especially after 50 years or so of hard use.
Best thing to do is rather than get hung up on what it's supposed to be just make it fit the best you can. Align the bulkhead outriggers by first mounting the rear tub and measure/fit from there.
Thanks Matt,
Only one problem I am planning on Galvanizing the frame. So the bumper crossmember will need to be installed.
Then you're going to have to build it up, get everything lined up satisfactory, then take it all apart again and finish weld everything. It's a bit of a ball ache but it's the only way. Don't rely on measurements alone.
Just sure they are really careful when they galvanize the chassis as they can twist and warp with the high heat.
Well pillars on.. Final weld in once foot well sides are completed at machine shop. [ This attachment cannot be displayed inline in 'Print Page' view ]
Good on ya!!! Keep it up ;)
Thanks Bill. 1 of Maybe 2 on the go!
Well seat box is taken down to a better level for cleaning. and re assembly with new sides. I will rocker guard the bottom of the box for sure. Next, can someone tell me what this Electrical Panel is that was under the drivers seat?
Happy to finally fit the foot wells with my foot panels made local... Stay tuned for details on where I am working out details on how much for club members. Water jet cut and bent.
Well I have a newly rebuild seatbox primed and sprayed with rubberized undercoat on the bottom!