Alberta Land Rover Enthusiasts Club Forum
General => Technical Discussions => Topic started by: JamesS on December 30, 2018, 07:41 PM
New to Land Rover ownership, picked up a Range Rover classic this summer in Vancouver and it has been sitting since in my parking garage. Plan is to get it safetied in the new year and parts on the way for a mild lift with police spec springs.
(https://scontent-sea1-1.cdninstagram.com/vp/12c12a61abfc0c08ba492da2d97535c0/5CD10337/t51.2885-15/e35/39100754_1801978076564250_347157731179757568_n.jpg?_nc_ht=scontent-sea1-1.cdninstagram.com)
(https://scontent-sea1-1.cdninstagram.com/vp/ad33a1cb144a99025bff91074c31440f/5CC9A841/t51.2885-15/e35/41675389_238217650203912_6000297873881806981_n.jpg?_nc_ht=scontent-sea1-1.cdninstagram.com)
Will post some updates here as I figure things out.
First off, anyone have suggestions for a place to get it safetied? Current plan is to take a risk and get it done at Canadian Tire as it is hard for me to get it done during the week.
Nice Rangie! What year is that, 93? Clean Classics are getting harder and harder to find.
CT is ok. Just be sure there are no lights on the dash. Unless there is an older mechanic available they likely won't be able to read pre OBD II codes.
Where are you?
Gotta love the RRC's ;)
I've always used CT. They have always signed the OPI.
We've had some people come into our shop after CT failed their OPI, usual due to inadequate knowledge by they individual doing the test. In most cases they were being failed on items that were not required due to the age of the vehicle. Sometimes it was just not knowing the land rovers.
CT skill levels change from location to location. Fire Arms collection in South common in Edmonton is better than the one in Windermere for example.
I use Sports Car Center because I know who is working there and their skills level.
The age of the car can make a huge difference in dealing with such certifications.
Thanks everyone, taking it in for inspection today (crossing my fingers).
It is a 91' Classic and located in Calgary.
I'm in Calgary and have a RRC, I've got quite a few spare bits if you need something for the inspection.
Quote from: JamesS on January 05, 2019, 09:21 AM
Thanks everyone, taking it in for inspection today (crossing my fingers).
It is a 91' Classic and located in Calgary.
Let us know how you make out!!
Well... did not go well. The lottery of who was conducting the inspection was not in my favour.
Major issues are ABS light not going on at startup, on further investigation the ABS light was pulled (great) and when replaced it is constantly on. The brakes work fine, I've been pulling ABS codes to trouble shoot this but no luck yet. I bought this book https://www.jewellamberoil.com/sales/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=230 which is helpful (let me know if anyone else needs it). The ABS system is quite complicated so this looks like it will be posing some issues. To start I am replacing the two relays under the passenger seat (Pump and valve I think), which tested good but correspond with the code flashed by the computer and should likely be replaced anyway.
Also flagged me for my fuel gauge not working (it shows empty at all times). To my mind that is not part of the inspection, but he felt it fell under the "underhood, fuel system" category ::). I am tracing this, but I also have one of these from a different project https://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/cin-sn34/overview/ which would "solve" it for the purposes of inspection. I believe the instrument cluster may be faulty but to be determined once I get some more time with the multi meter.
Other minor issues that caused it to fail are cracked middle rear seatbelt receptacle, upper tailgate not latching (it does, you just have to give it some muscle, like every other classic I've ever dealt with), and leaking power steering box (don't they all leak? I have put in lucas stop leak). These items arent of major concern.
I don't know if this is any help but my P38 needs to hit 5 km/hr before the ABS light will extinguish. This is apparently normal operating procedure. Maybe the RRC is similar?
It is usually bad wheel speed sensors in my experience that set off the ABS light as long as the brakes are otherwise working.
I removed the entire ABS system to where there is no trace of it in my 93 RRC, can't fail now ;)
X2 on the wheel sensor.
The rear lift gate latch is adjustable. It's a PITA but it can be done.
Sounds like the fuel gauge sender is shorted. Lift the carpet in the back and remove the handy cover plate for the fuel pump. Check the wiring. It tends to trap a bunch of dirt/moisture on top of the tank that damages the harness connectors.
Seatbelts are the same as for the Discovery 1. If you can't find any locally I've got some you can have for free!
Hope this helps.
Great job guys!!!! Get that Rangie back on the road where it belongs ;)
Thanks everyone, appreciate the suggestions.
Not much progress tonight other than I tried to trace the fuel gauge issues. Pulled the pump and it all appears fine (floater floats) and the wiring is all clean and no corrosion. Didn't rig it up to test the ohms output by the sender.
(https://i412.photobucket.com/albums/pp210/jskahuna/IMG_0596_zpswiy3xmdf.jpg)
Wasnt all for waste as I did observe something interesting while testing it with the floater manually pushed full: the fuel gauge seems to read accurately when the key is in position 2 (lights on dash on but not started), but when off or started it goes to empty. I think it must be an issue with the gauge itself but will have to investigate further.
Update... went to my parking garage this evening to troubleshoot the fuel gauge... and low and behold vehicle had been rifled through and all my tools stolen. Looks like someone broke into the building. Temporary setback.
Low life!!!! >:(
Some progress recently:
Trucklite LED headlights:
(https://i.imgur.com/RnEmOQe.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/evTdccA.jpg)
Not entirely happy with how they sit, but the light output is great compared to the sealed beams.
Also installed magnaflow cat back exhaust, sounds much better than factory:
(https://i.imgur.com/7z4aE3T.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/tGudmW0.jpg)
New wheels (maybe)
(https://i.imgur.com/sUVim2d.jpg)
Minor interior pieces:
(https://i.imgur.com/7BsImYt.jpg)
Strongly dislike the factory land rover connectors, so converting in some areas to Deutsch connectors with solid pins, starting with the fuel pump:
(https://i.imgur.com/KHCVhrL.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/wwIwPbk.jpg)
All parts received for the lift - police spec red/white rear springs, front are greens, koni shocks:
(https://i.imgur.com/b3MMpzI.jpg)
Installed on Saturday, took essentially all day with running around to get tools. Ended up having to buy an angle grinder to get out one of the rear shocks:
(https://i.imgur.com/bxfMgoC.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/qqO4Ttv.jpg)
All done:
(https://i.imgur.com/UQ5Jyx9.jpg)
May be sagging a bit in the rear, waiting for it to settle:
(https://i.imgur.com/oD9urOx.jpg)
New stereo receiver:
(https://i.imgur.com/FDPoHOF.jpg)
Let the games begin!!!! 8)
Do you have a load leveler and is it still working? If not, those rear springs are probably a bit light for a RR. An Airlift kit would be a decent option.
Quote from: Red90 on February 18, 2019, 10:50 AM
Do you have a load leveler and is it still working? If not, those rear springs are probably a bit light for a RR. An Airlift kit would be a decent option.
Not sure if load leveler is working. Red/whites are 20 lbs stiffer (170 lb) than factory greens (150 lb). Greens now in the front as opposed to 133 lb stock. Trying not to mess with the ride at all.
You need a load leveller for the system to work with those springs. Otherwise you would normally change to Disco 1 rears.
Read the manual for the method to test the load leveler. Do you understand you need to drive for the leveler to pump up? Part is the problem with a leveler is they won't work if you are trying to be lifted. They will only maintain stock height.
Seems fine
(https://i.imgur.com/briIaCz.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/AqKWyBo.jpg)
I have those same headlights on my 110. They are x 1000 better than the stock units. They really kick ass. Great upgrade.
BTW, I've never seen a Bose load leveller that works properly on a Range Rover or 110 SW since 1998.
I seriously need a recommendation for a reasonable mechanic that can do out of province inspections.
Just tried to have it inspected again after months and months of fixing things listed in the last inspection. Even got the ABS system working properly.
Took it to get inspected and right off the bat it was like the mechanic was trying to fail it - he said it wouldn't pass with a broken fog light (not a requirement). Then he said because the ABS light doesnt turn off within 7 seconds it would fail as well - per the manual you have to drive the car to 10 kmph before the ABS light turns off. Ridiculous. Then he tried to plug the OBD2 scanner into the ABS... Everyone is trying to have the car meet the standard of something brand new.
Does anyone know someone that is reasonable? It checks all the boxes on the form - just not the test where the mechanic makes up whatever they want to and then says that it fails.
Thanks.
Complain. It's a 1991 and does not need to be OBD II compliant. Remove the spoiler and fog lights.
Vern at TRS did the out of province on my RRC a few years ago and let me fix any problems he found.
Called around and booked at "Lakeview Automotive". Based on the call seems like they have some experience inspecting older cars, so crossing my fingers.
Not the first time I've heard that kinda of crap before on an inspection. We have a good shop here in Edmonton. Very reasonable but honest about it.
Quote from: JamesS on June 10, 2019, 03:02 PM
Called around and booked at "Lakeview Automotive". Based on the call seems like they have some experience inspecting older cars, so crossing my fingers.
Did you try Vern at TRS?
Last time I was at TRS I think I mentioned whether they knew of a good place for an inspection and it didn't seem like they did them - they also aren't listed on the government website. Will try my luck next week - before then just going to remove everything that could cause a problem and put the interior plastics back in.
Hopefully they still do, Vern was pretty easy to deal with when I was there last. Mind you that was about 7 years ago now, so alot could have changed.
They will at least be aware the Wabco ABS system needs to see wheel speed to extinguish the light.
Registered! Huge waste of time and money but now on the road.
You own a Range Rover Classic......and now it's on the road......the wasting of time money has only just begun! Lol.
Congratulations and welcome from a fellow RRC money pit owner.
You'll love driving it ;) Like being in a fish bowl and just plain comfortable!
Yes, I always describe driving the RRC as being like in a fish bowl because the viability is so good. After doing a major overhaul on mine about 9 years ago there has not been any big brake downs. Heater has been a constant pita but works sort of. Had to replace the front drive shaft last year due to forgetting to grease it. Right now it is over due for some maintenance and the rust is starting to get a hold on it again but it still drives and is fun to get around in with excellent fuel economy (200tdi).
I really enjoy my Defender 110 Station Wagon, but the Mighty Range Rover is just where it's at when it comes to visceral fun and off road prowess. It just ticks all my boxes. Looks great, sounds great, performs great and leaves me with a smile every time I drive it.
Sometimes I consider selling it but then I find another reason to hang onto the beast.
In fact I just spent another $1K on wheels & tyres. Time and money wasted? Perhaps, but I don't golf so I need something to keep me off the streets.
Since being licensed have put on about 500 kms without any issues.
(https://i.imgur.com/62flgRU.jpg)
The plan was to get AMA, but I ended up getting a Canadian Tire mastercard with no fee that has up to 250 km free towing (5 times per year). Seems like a must have for any land rover owner considering it is free.
I also managed to fix the gas gauge malfunction - it ended up being the wiring which had drooped down and melted on the exhaust (the old exhaust). I did a temporary fix and then got around to a full fix tonight:
Old plug:
(https://i.imgur.com/Q9rqC85.jpg)
Deutsch connector:
(https://i.imgur.com/ATpGQ0q.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/ykPOGpX.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/Dfiyfex.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/8qmFVxw.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/at9P0qe.jpg)
It is very satisfying replacing the old garbage land rover wiring.
are those Deutsche pins/sockets crimp or stamp and form ?
They are the solid machined type, I find them easier to crimp although the other ones would do the same job and are cheaper.
i have the HDT-48-00 crimper it works great
Updates (not much).
Ripped out all the rear carpeting and found some expected rust I have to deal with:
(https://i.imgur.com/0flZRMW.jpg)
Did some clean up and painting:
(https://i.imgur.com/BphUi1I.jpg)
Was having issues with the alternator so I pulled a VW Bosch Alternator from bucks and swapped:
(https://i.imgur.com/myyiVyD.jpg)
Jobs for the new year will be repairing the floor, painting and getting the interior back in. Would also like to clean the underside more thoroughly and do some rust proofing. Contemplating LT230 swap as well but will see about that.
Happy new year everyone.
Definitely lose the BorgWarner and install the LT230. So much better option ;)
Yes, I ditched the borg where the viscous unit seized.
I also swapped the BW for the LT230 the the viscous unit failed.
(https://i.imgur.com/okr55vk.jpg)
Had another break-in the other week this time with a broken window. Thankfully nothing significant to steal unlike last time when they managed to get all of my tools. Crime rate seems to be spiking hard downtown Calgary with the isolation measures.
Anyone have a spare window by chance or know of a wrecker in or around Calgary? I managed to track down a spare window in Regina but difficult to get it here with no one driving.
Thanks!
Too bad about the damage. Would a Disco 1 window fit I wonder? If so I have lots.
I think Disco 1 would be different - but not 100% sure. Thanks for offer to look!
Managed to buy one off of Andrew (thanks for selling it!) and swapped it in today:
(https://i.imgur.com/fy2p2oW.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/YpejN4H.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/Z56U2Oc.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/cw2dXpP.jpg)
Also spent last weekend doing the panhard rod, not a good decision given limited resources but managed to get it done...
(https://i.imgur.com/blyy03W.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/aXy4D19.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/t7JSnUR.jpg)
Are you using the wire spools to draw the bushes in????? ???
Glad the glass worked out, if you need to borrow some better tools let me know.
Desperate times call for desperate measures hahaha. It actually worked decently, was my fault for going after it without looking more closely at what would be required. Thanks for offer on tools! Goal is now to do little else besides drive it for remainder of the year, except maybe try to get some welding done on the floor and underbody rustproofing.
New front bumper and fog lights, big improvement.
(https://i.imgur.com/U6YoRL3.jpeg)
sweet!
Well it's been a while since you likely have looked at your ad but I will be keeping an eye out for your RRC . Love the color ! If you see a black or a Chawton white P38 it's either me or one of my kids driving around Calgary so wave. 😂✌️ Nice ride !
Rob