Alberta Land Rover Enthusiasts Club Forum
General => Technical Discussions => Topic started by: binch on November 28, 2016, 11:46 AM
Well...I've had the plastic T connector on upper rad hose fail for the last time 8) In the past 11 years I've had that piece fail on me...both times the plastic body cracked, but I was able to get the engine shut down before warping anything. For the life of me I can't figure out why LR would use such a poor quality part in such an important location >:( The last time one failed was on the Anthony Henday, just east of Dave's place, so I called him and he pooped by home Depot and picked up a nylon T piece from their plumbing department that we jury rigged inplace. That did the job for the interm but now I've solved that problem properly!!!
I found an aluminium replacement piece with a steel air purge screw, and built a damned site better. I figure that will outlast the truck itself now ;)
Go Binford
Nice fix.
Many manufactures seem to build in unnessary weaknesses into otherwise solid products and Land Rover are particularly bad for never addressing these shortcomings.
Quote from: binch on November 28, 2016, 11:46 AM
Well...I've had the plastic T connector on upper rad hose fail for the last time 8) In the past 11 years I've had that piece fail on me...both times the plastic body cracked, but I was able to get the engine shut down before warping anything. For the life of me I can't figure out why LR would use such a poor quality part in such an important location >:( The last time one failed was on the Anthony Henday, just east of Dave's place, so I called him and he pooped by home Depot and picked up a nylon T piece from their plumbing department that we jury rigged inplace. That did the job for the interm but now I've solved that problem properly!!!
I found an aluminium replacement piece with a steel air purge screw, and built a damned site better. I figure that will outlast the truck itself now ;)
Go Binford
I pack around a socket head cap screw in my glove box to deal with the inevitable failure of the goofy little plastic bleed screw. I like the idea of replacing the entire piece for a metal option though.
The aluminum replacement you "found" Bill...is that something you built, or did you find someone that is building/selling these?
Our friend Bert has come up with the solution ;D
Cool. I'll have to get me one of those!
I noted that Greggs had Continental-branded standard Tee tubing connectors in black plastic, I would assume they're well made. Is there a fitting issue, requiring a metric OD tee connector?
Quote from: ugly_90 on December 31, 2016, 05:31 PM
I noted that Greggs had Continental-branded standard Tee tubing connectors in black plastic, I would assume they're well made. Is there a fitting issue, requiring a metric OD tee connector?
But then you don't have the bleeder screw in it. In a pinch you can get a standard plastic plumbers T at any hardware store, which is far easier to find then a Gregg's Distributor, and probably a lot less money. That will get you home. it's not a permanent solution to the problem.....
But since that connection is a high point in your coolant hoses and because of that a bleed screw was added. And the BIG advantage of the aluminium T is the likelihood of failure with the aluminium piece is almost non-existent compared to the current plastic piece used now. I've gone through enough of the plastic to realize it's NOT the answer. ;)
Turns out this is a VERY popular item!!!!!! Bert was running out of them already and has had to order some more!!!!! 8)
It's a good item. Goes directly to one of the more silly design flaws of the D2. And the beauty of it is, it's a simple fix