Questions on upgrading from Generator to Alternator - Series II 2.25 Petrol

Started by SpeedyJ, February 08, 2016, 11:55 AM

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SpeedyJ

I'm finally starting to thing seriously about upgrading from my old generator to an alternator.

A few thoughts:
1. The Pangolin style kit won't work, it interferes with my non-standard intake.
2. I'm currently running positive ground, I'd like to switch to negative ground.
3. Should I be looking at Land Rover alternators, or will a GM unit fit the factory location? I'm looking for something peppy to run gadgets, lights, dual battery, furnace fan, heated seats.....
4. What is simply not going to work after the conversion? Ammeter? Fuel guage?
5. Modern domestic alternators are attractive to me - I get a decent discount through work at NAPA, so I would help keep costs down.

Clearly I don't need to reinvent the wheel, so if somebody can point me in the direction of a good step by step guide I'd really appreciate it.

This is the first step to upgrading the ignition system to a MegaJolt, but that's a whole different thread.

Cheers

-J

Rambler

Here are a couple of helpful links to making the switch.  Will describe the various pitfalls and benefits.  Roversnorth website also had some helpful guides in switch from +ve to -ve earth at the same time as Converting to an alternator set up.


http://www.lrfaq.org/series/Electrical.html
http://www.expeditionlandrover.info/Delco_Alternators.html

Many Series owners have fitted Delco 10 Si or 12 Si alternators fitted to domestic tyoe cars over the years.  Mine is running a 55 amp and these types are available for certainly under 100$
The bracket on mine was a custom made one by a previous owner.  Its low down, so may not be good for wading.

Good luck
1957 Series One 88", petrol

SOLD:
'Luna' - Series 2 88", petrol with full tilt, ('61) [Restoration complete in 2020]
'Tardis' - Series 3 88", petrol hard top ('74) .. last seen sunning itself in the Carolinas

SpeedyJ

Thanks Rambler, I'm reading the Rover's North write up right now.

Is there a newer version of the SI series alternators? I remember someone (Kirk) saying something about that.

Red90

Beyond the negative ground switch, the fitting of the alternator is probably something you would need to figure out on your own due to the turbo.

A Series 3 uses the same alternator and mounting location as the Defenders up to the 200TDI.  I'm not sure if it would fit your engine bay, but if it did, would be a nice option as many people in the club use that style and makes trail sparing easier.  They come in 65 A standard for under $100 aftermarket or ~$200 OEM.  Britpart also does a 120 A model that fits the stock location for a little more.

Otherwise I would choose something that is locally common and work out a mount.  The higher, the better.  Maybe post up some engine bay photos, so we can understand what is in there currently.

On the topic of the Megajolt...I was in the advanced stages of planning an EFI and EDIS conversion for my Lightweight a couple of years ago.  It did not happen, but I can probably offer some advice of timing maps and thoughts on component location if I can drag up what I did back then.

SpeedyJ

Hmmmm. Are you saying that I should try to come up with some Series 3 mounts then? It looks like the factory alternator position on the 200tdi is pretty low, so it should clear my intake/side draft carb. I'm resigned to it being low. If I'm not mistaken, my engine block is from a 72-74 Lightwieght, so I's expect all the mounting points to be there.

Are any of the series/diesel LR alternators common to the V8 engines (i.e. NA spec). It would be nice to source replacements from normal autoparts stores on trips if I stay with LR parts.

I'm trying to avoid too much trial and error, I don't have a cache of parts, so if I want to try something I have to go and buy it first.

As far as the MegaJolt goes, my biggest barrier is getting a trigger wheel mounted, I found the attached picture on the TriggerWheels.com site. It appears to be a nice way to go if I can locate someone with a metal lathe. I would probably want to bolt it up though to allow for adjustments, I know that this can be done on the software side as well, but I like to keep my options open. I'll be removing the homebuilt ECU, so that will free up some mounting locations and likely allow me to re-use some existing holes.

Red90

Certain people have metal lathes and many spare parts in Calgary suitable for mocking up....

I don't think they cross over to the V8 ones, but new parts are quick and easy to get and usually cheaper than the local options.

That is how I would mount the trigger wheel as well with a hall effect sensor behind it and as high as possible.

Rambler

Quote from: SpeedyJ on February 08, 2016, 12:26 PM


Is there a newer version of the SI series alternators? I remember someone (Kirk) saying something about that.

Not sure about the size / shape and suitability of the later high amp SI series alternators.
This link offers helpful info. on the 10 and 12 SI units and alternatives.

http://www.madelectrical.com/electricaltech/delcoremy.shtml
1957 Series One 88", petrol

SOLD:
'Luna' - Series 2 88", petrol with full tilt, ('61) [Restoration complete in 2020]
'Tardis' - Series 3 88", petrol hard top ('74) .. last seen sunning itself in the Carolinas

SpeedyJ

Thanks, I'd come across this last year, but I failed to bookmark it. There's lots of helpful stuff there.

Thanks.