Alberta Land Rover Enthusiasts Club Forum
General => Technical Discussions => Topic started by: jybella on October 20, 2016, 09:17 PM
Winters almost here and time for projects. We had a successful trip to BC this summer but during the trip I was thinking that I need to add a winch to the Defender not that we are into extreme 4 wheeling but I think it is a good idea to have one for the times when a person may be alone or just get into a sticky situation.
I wanted the winch to be as tight to the front as possible and after trolling the Internet had a couple of different options. Either the low profile winches like the Warn M8000 or the higher profile M8274. I picked up a older (80'S) 8274 for $150 off Kijiji, took it home and disassembled it totally, no surprise it is actually in very good condition, some paint an updates and it will be like new.
I found a picture on the net that is my inspiration.
That's very similar to my set up ;D
I order a M8274 winch plate from 4 wheel parts and received it today. I made a cardboard template and modified the plate to fit tight to the front cross member. I couple of cuts to the plate and it seems to fit real good. I mounted the cleaned up 1/2's of the winch and it appears all the clearances are good. The last pic shows a white line and the line represents how far the original bumper would be from the from the frame, so it looks like I will be only 2" further further than the original bumper front edge.
I would suggest bolting it to the front cross member as well as the bumper. The bumper itself is not strong enough.
A good thing to do to the winch is to drill and tap the end of the brake shaft and add a large washer and bolt to prevent the circlip popping off.
Keep the brake cam lubed. They rust stuck if left in the elements and the brake won't engage.
Here is my winch cradle. http://www.red90.ca/photos/land-rovers/Winch_Bumper/
Yup, that's what I followed! John's was a simple by strong set up. Also much more difficult to steal the winch ;)
I'd also strongly recommend a plazma rope for the winch line. MUCH safer..... And it's lighter and stronger too!
Quote from: binch on October 21, 2016, 01:11 AM
I'd also strongly recommend a plazma rope for the winch line. MUCH safer..... And it's lighter and stronger too!
And you can wind on a longer plasma line in the same space. Easily an extra 25 feet over steel wire.
Quote from: camo388 on October 21, 2016, 08:14 PM
Quote from: binch on October 21, 2016, 01:11 AM
I'd also strongly recommend a plazma rope for the winch line. MUCH safer..... And it's lighter and stronger too!
And you can wind on a longer plasma line in the same space. Easily an extra 25 feet over steel wire.
I'm not sure that's the case there Bruce.... ??? My 150' 5/16" steel cable was replaced with a 125' 3/8' plasma line. I suppose I could have gone with the same size line but that's what the plasma came in when I bought it...shortly after the Bore War ;D
Yes, well you have gone from smaller steel to larger plasma. In my case I went equal sizes and I wasn't paying too much attention at first to see if steel wire was maxed out on drum.
If I were to do it again I would buy minimum 150 feet of plasma, put what I could on the drum and make left over length into a very handy spliced eye extension / tow rope. Much easier to work with to shorten by doubling or tripling etc. to get the length you need than steel cable. Plasma very light to carry, stows easily into a corner or behind seat and just drop it into a pail of soapy water now and again to keep clean. For those handy with a sewing machine, make up a cloth bag and plasma rope stays clean and tidy.
What not handy with a sewing machine?? :o If you can't learn then bribe the Mrs. A meal out and no dishes to wash is a good starting point. ;D
Are you keeping that motor on the upright Warn 12v and stepping it down from 24v for the wolf?
Looks good BTW!...
Thx, I will be changing the motor to 24v and adding a new 24v selonoid to make it all 24v. I see there is a lot of people putting 24v to a HD 12 v motor with good results, that may be an option as well, seems risky but quick line speed.
Go wild Jim and put on the twin giggle pin motor top! Speeds ranging from 70ft/m up to 450ft/m. Heck...you can launch gliders with it if you're interested 8)
I'm a bit confused?? Isn't the the Defender already 12v? I'm working on the assumption the Defenders were 12v vehicle then a separate 24v system for radio. This is the way my 110 FFR is anyway. Previously the whole vehicle was 24v if FFR, as my Lightweight is, and a bit of a pain and expense to find 24v parts. Spark plugs alone are something like $20-25 EACH from UK.
Anyway I have a 24v winch (Warn M6000 I believe), which will not work for me. I'll be converting the Lightweight it is on, to 12v needed for 2.5 NA starter. It looked too complicated to have a 12v and 24v system on the same truck, where both will have heavy draw from 12v starter and 24v winch. Easier to have both if 12v was only needed for light draw like a radio.
If motors fit maybe we could trade motors and solenoids?
Bruce
Wolf trucks are fully 24 V. Earlier MOD Defenders are 12 V for the vehicle with a separate 24 V system.
I can't quite see how the spark plugs would care what voltage the vehicle runs at?
Thanks for ending my vehicle voltage confusion. Must be a military thing to be all 24v. Most every one else does fine with 12v.
Maybe the spark plug doesn't care what voltage the vehicle runs at but the shape has to fit the FFR suppressed equipment.
From another forum.
I always look at FFR Ignition this way, the plugs are pricey because they are made in small quantity and have a big solid tungsten resistor because they are for radio suppression. Likewise the screened DZS4A dizzy and HT leads - nothing special just suppression, aircraft type threaded plugs and lead connections used to save another manufacturing standard.
Do not forget that until about 1970 most standard spark plugs were not suppressed, if you fitted a radio you had to fit HT suppressor caps to listen to it, (you may remember the Champion Bakelite screw on suppressor caps).
I have not stripped a screened HP lead apart but consider it will only be a extra heavy copper core (probably silver coated very fine copper wire). Nothing special because up until the early 1980's Land Rover still supplied the 12 volt HT cables c/with suppressor caps to a similar standard, the only thing different is the outer screen braid.
And for a picture of the plug go here, http://www.johnrichardssurplus.co.uk/land-rover-24volt-spark-plug-rsn12y.html
Yah, so you could just switch to a normal distributor, wires and plugs, if you wanted. Pretty cheap to buy a complete modern system with electronic ignition.
Large trucks are all 24 Volt, so the military specifies 24 Volt for all vehicles. They need to share trailers and jump start each other. Too much chance of someone blowing up a battery with two systems...
Quote from: Red90 on October 24, 2016, 01:14 PM
Yah, so you could just switch to a normal distributor, wires and plugs, if you wanted. Pretty cheap to buy a complete modern system with electronic ignition.
Yes I could change and in fact have parts to do that but then ignition not original to the vehicle.
Mind you when I fit the 2.5 NA, then originality is out the window and so of course is the need for expensive spark plugs. ;D
As I recall the old 24v rover ignition is in fact 12v and it uses a transformer to step the voltage down from 24 to 12 before it gets to the coil and distributor. The fancy plugs are for radio noise suppression. I've seen the 24v distributor retro fitted with regular spark plug wires, coil, and plugs before.
A little more fab work.
I cut the Warn mounting plate on my chalk marks so I could work in the original bumper 1/2's. I had a damaged bumper that still had a good 1/2. I cut out the original bumper mounting tabs and they are being made up at the fab shop, I thought it would be easier to assemble all the parts loose so I could adjust each piece separately.
Next fitted the bumper 1/2 and checked the fit. I am pretty happy with the result. Now fab up a couple of bumper 1/2's to match the originals. I like with how far the mounting plate only sticks past the original bumper.
Looks very neat and good to see you are making progress.
Sorry it got a bit off topic. :-[
Bruce
now it's time to galvanize!!! ;D
Picked up the bumper 1/2' today, they turned out great. Now to mock up and tack weld in place.
Very tidy Jim ;)
Tack welded the side bumpers to the centre today, now to finish welding and then paint.
I do need help in identifying a part number for the grill frame as I will need to modify the grill frame the winch will be mounted tight to the frame support.
The grill frame has the opening it for the hood release lever.
Any information would be appreciated.
Thx
See here for part numbers: http://www.allbrit.de/UNI.cfm?PAGE=763187&SPRACHE=EN
If you need to know where to download a parts catalog, let us know.
Thx for the link, for the life of me I can't find the Grille Panel with the slot for the hood release.
Jim
Found it.
RRC8404
I suspect that version is long gone. I think that was only on really early trucks and any specific parts to that era is no longer available. I've never seen a parts catalog that covers the pre-86 stuff.
Why do you need another one? Are you not just going to trim your own to fit? You could always take the regular one and add the slot. It is pretty easy to form items with the aluminum. Cut a hole and make a die with wood and form the lip. Or change to the latch that is under the grill or the cable release style.