Alberta Land Rover Enthusiasts Club Forum
General => Technical Discussions => Topic started by: Gardenome on September 22, 2016, 09:10 PM
I'm pretty much ready for my out of province inspection but I'm certain my steering will fail due to too much play. My steering box does flex a bit in its bracket but that is a known issue that was addressed in the series 2.
I've replaced almost all the tie rod ends but I was not sure how tight to secure them. Should I tighten them until they start to spin in their sockets or just till they're snug? They have castle nuts and locking pins.
Thanks
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How about 25ft/lbs.....
I found this bit in in the series 11 club site:
http://www.series2club.co.uk/pages/technical/servicing.html (http://www.series2club.co.uk/pages/technical/servicing.html)
If I were to ask Malcom, he'd direct me immediately to standard torque, which are in many of the Haynes manuals and many sources online.
Your bolt head would need to be 7/16" or larger to likely withstand the 25ft/lb. It sounds reasonable. Beware of torquing studs in alloy though, as they can withstand nothing like this.
Tie rod ends should be nice and tight. If it is spinning, it has not set itself in the taper and that it a bad thing.
Quote from: Red90 on September 23, 2016, 12:21 PM
Tie rod ends should be nice and tight. If it is spinning, it has not set itself in the taper and that it a bad thing.
X2. It must be seated fully before attempting to apply final torque.
Have you done anything to the steering relay? They also must be setup correctly or you will get horrible steering.
Rebuilt the steering relay. Steering is not overly stiff it just takes a bit to engage the wheels.
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You need to watch it to see what is loose while moving the steering wheel. With everything right there should be very little play. Have you adjusted the steering box?
Well, I found the play. Series one forum recommends a rebuild at around $650. Going to see if Malcolm has a suitable replacement while I save up. Any other ideas welcome. Steering column sources would be ok too.
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So the problem is in the steering box then?
Have you adjusted it?
There is no adjustment that I'm aware of.
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The column and the box are held together with 4 rivets. They are not as snug as they should be. The column shifts in and out of the box very slightly as I move the wheel back and forth. Not traditional rivets.
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Quote from: Gardenome on September 27, 2016, 09:57 PM
There is no adjustment that I'm aware of.
There is an adjusting screw on the steering box that is meant to be adjusted to remove free play.
Quote from: Gardenome on September 27, 2016, 10:00 PM
The column and the box are held together with 4 rivets. They are not as snug as they should be. The column shifts in and out of the box very slightly as I move the wheel back and forth. Not traditional rivets.
That sounds strange. The column shroud should just be bolted to the steering box with four bolts.
https://vimeo.com/184684020 (https://vimeo.com/184684020)
Added a video for clarity.
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Oh. You have a Series 1 :-[. I read Series 2 in your first post. That is the early style with no adjustments and not the most modern design. No idea if that is fixable.
I'm sure Matt can provide real advice.
Having a look at the design of these and reading a bit. They are not adjustable. If a bearing or bushing is worn, it would need to come apart and be rebuilt and it looks like parts are fun to find. If the only problem, is the special rivets are loose, perhaps there is a way to replace them.
The later ones are a better design and can be serviced but you lose the horn.
That looks like a early Series 1 (possibly 80") box but things changed with Series 1's almost monthly and then you can add 60+ years of repairs and who knows for sure? To prevent the column from rotating in the box the simplest fix is to tack weld it.
I was thinking in that direction. Nice to have some confirmation, thanks.
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Just make sure the box is steel before trying to weld. My reading points to them changing to an aluminium box. That looks like it to me. The earliest boxes were cast iron, if I read right.
http://www.ics-steeringspecialist.co.uk/bespoke-engineering/series-one-ii-iia-and-3-land-rover
QuoteThe early cast iron boxes (the more desirable but harder to find) were replaced by an aluminum box.
Pipe through the firewall is iron, magnet tells me the main box is aluminum. Sigh.
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I see the trouble in the video. Isn't there enough alloy material at the top of the integral steering box at the bottom of the column? One would drill and tap some holes for hex grub screws to secure the two materials together? Perhaps a machine shop could do it for you well for a small fee. You might "ruin your core" by this plan though, and never be able to exchange it later with a rebuilder; a problem with parts this rare.
Although I think it would be flimsy, and could end with steering into the ditch, can't you braze dissimilar metals??
A bit of Blasphemy in this forum, but could a later LR series 2, old Jeep CJ, ancient Toyota, Tractor, Princess Auto, or other manual steering box and column be adapted to do the same job?
I'm going to visit Malcolm on the weekend and see what he has for a substitute. I'll save up for the rebuild.
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I was wrong about them being on early units only. I just checked a 51,a 54 and a 57 and that box seems common to all.
Let me have a dig around my horde. I may have a good original one.
Waiting with baited breath. Really not wanting the rebuild.
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I've picked up a later type from Malcolm. Not yet positive it will work but looks promising. Should know tomorrow. Stay tuned.
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