LR3 Lower Control Arms

[SpeedyJ]

My new to me LR3 has the usual clunk that means it's time for new front lower control arms.

I should have all the parts and tools that I think I need this evening, I've read up on the procedure (FSM, Disco3.co.uk, etc) and watched a few YouTube videos. It's so awesome to have all these web resources on hand, it's easy to forget how much more information we have at out fingertips these days. When I started working on my own vehicles (mostly VWs back then) I only had access to Haynes manuals (uuuughhhh) and the much more helpful 'How to Keep Your Volkswagon Alive' by John Muir (aka 'the bible').  The Haynes manuals always had (un)helpful step-by-step procedures that consistently failed to answer any questions, for instance, if I wanted to remove the engine I'd turn to the 'Engine' chapter where the procedure would be presented like this:

1. Open hood.
2. Remove engine.

I usually prefer to have it broken into a few more steps.

Anyway, my main question is this - Is there anything that you wish you'd known before you replaced the lower control arms on a late model LR? Any gotchas?

Any tips on separating the lower ball joint? Most folks seem to use an air hammer, can anyone recommend a separator that might work better? There is a special tool for the procedure, but I'm not sure what the non-LR tool equivalent is.

Thanks in advance!

-J

[Trevor]

I agree fully on the "YouTube" effect for garage mechanics, handymen, etc. There is sooo much info out there now and decent how-to's it's mind boggling how far we've come in just a few short years.

[Matt H]

Get a high quality penetrating fluid (no, not WD-40) and soak all the fasteners as much as possible. The rear lower bolts are especially prone to rusting in place. You may need to buy new bolts.

There isn't much room to work under there, it's awkward and everything hard to get at. Don't expect to have it done in an afternoon. I'm not saying it can't be done but chances are it will put up a fight.

With the vehicle weight off the ball joint and retaining nut loose, rap the lower ball joint socket area hard with a heavy hammer. Not the ball joint itself, the cast socket on the knuckel. It will pop off if done correctly. Same method is used for the steering tie rod end if you are taking that off too.

Torque up the bolts with the weight of the car on the wheels in the normal ride height position.

Have an alignment done asap after the new control arms are in.

Check the unit bearings, tie rod ends (inner and outer) upper control arms, cv joints and brakes etc while you are in there.

[Red90]

With the vehicle weight off the ball joint and retaining nut loose, rap the lower ball joint socket area hard with a heavy hammer. Not the ball joint itself, the cast socket on the knuckle. It will pop off if done correctly. Same method is used for the steering tie rod end if you are taking that off too.

The only way to go.
https://youtu.be/vpAwM2xH-IU

[SpeedyJ]

It looks like I got lucky, the inner mounting bolts popped right out without any drama. The ball joint and tie rod end slowed me down a bit (I had to go buy a bigger precision tool part way through).

My only hang up right now is the inner ball joint - how do you separate it from the steering rack? The replacement  unit has wrench flats, but the original does not. Is this just a matter of bigger pliers?

Thanks for the tips gentlemen!

-J

[Matt H]

If you pull the boot back from the inner tie rod the OEM unit also has flat spots for removal hidden inside. At least mine did.

[SpeedyJ]

Thanks Matt,

It looks like most of the factory ones don't have wrench flats (based on a few minutes Googling), so the answer is a pipe wrench or vice grips. The replacement units do have the flats, which is what left me wondering where they were on the old ones.

I'll dig back into it tonight. It should go a lot quicker now.

-Jeff

[SpeedyJ]

The whole operation went well, it wasn't as much of a headache as I thought it would be.

All in I'm well under $1000, which compares favourably against the shop quote of $2500. I did spring for an air hammer (which wasn't really needed) and a new torque wrench (a nice Snap On unit I picked up at a pawn shop for $160).

All of the control arm mounting bolts came out without a fuss. I'll keep the old arms and press new ball joints and urethane bushings into them for next time.

The alignment was straight forward with no issues.

Thanks for the tips!

Now I'm on to the rear brakes. :D

-J

[Matt H]

Glad everything went ok for you. Sounds like you didn't need to fight rusty bolts too much.

I wouldn't recommend urethane bushings. I replaced all the bushings in mine (orange, Pollybush brand) and found they transmitted far more vibrations into the cabin than the OEM bushings. There have also been concerns with the EAS & urathane bushings.

My 2c.

[SpeedyJ]

Hmmmmm,

I'll keep that in mind Matt, thanks for the tip.

With any luck I'll have some time to think about it. ;)

The rear brake pads went quickly as well, probably under an hour.

[Matt H]

http://alre.club/Forum/index.php?topic=313.0

This is a thread I started on my long term findings using the Pollybush bushings on my LR3.

Mine has coil +2" springs but owners with EAS have reported problems raising/lowering the suspension. Lots of info to be found on the D3 UK forum.

Hope it helps.