clunk on Disco 2 when cornering

[ochubb]

Since the Baseline trip my Disco 2 makes a single clunk when cornering.

When I first got the truck I had a similar issue and when I had it down in Calgary the guys at TRS identified one of the anti roll bar linkages was the cause and showed me when the truck was on the hoist.  I duly replace the part but didn't note which side it was on and now when I check both linkages seem tight, as does everything else,with the wheels on the ground both.

So, can it be something else?  Do I need to have the wheels off the ground before I can check for play in the linkages?

Perhaps as an unrelated matter, I'm also able to get a small click when under the truck and prying on one arm of the watts linkage.  However with the amount of force required to cause the click and the truck on the ground I can't reach around to feel suspension components while levering the linkage to find the source of the click. 

[B-Red]

Lift the truck at the diff and hold each tire from the top. Push in and out for click noise. That would indicate bearings. On Disco 2, it's the complete assembly.
Holding tire at 3 or 9 o'clock, push in and out. If noise shows before it starts turning, then it is the linkage arm.
Also check the prob shaft for loss play click sound. If it does, service right away.
Other fellows can explain more.

Cheers

[ochubb]

When jacked up at the diff I can only get one wheel off the ground (right) -- nonetheless wheel bearing check out ok on both sides.  Prop shaft is tight.

The 3 or 9 o'clock test might not be conclusive because I didn't get both wheels off the ground. But, with one wheel then the other there was no noise.

I should also say, that I can bounce the vehicle pretty hard (standing in the rear door frame) -- no noise.  It only makes the noise when doing normal cornering in city driving.

[Red90]

Describe in more detail when exactly the clunk happens.  Is it a single clunk turning one way or both ways or is it continuous?  With these sort of things, you need to get in there with pry bars and look for anything loose.  It can be hard to find if you have not done it a lot before. There are a lot of things that can come loose or wear out and make clunks.

[ochubb]

Mostly one clunk when turning in the back end.  Although over the last couple of days there is some new sounds when going over bumps.  The sound is more of a rattle - not stones in a can rattle -- more like a foam-covered golfball in a can.

Understood about the hard to find, I tried to pry on things as noted before but on the driveway there is a limited amount of room to work with and not really knowing where the pry points are it been baffling. 

Back to my original question does it help/required to have the suspension under load or hanging free? Or, does that depend on what the issue is? 

[Red90]

I would look closer at the watts linkage, then, if you think it is in the back and you could get movement.  I'm no expert on them, but I assume they should have very tight and low movement bushings.  First check that all the bolts are nice and tight.  They are meant to be very tight.  The bolts clamp on the inner sleeve and that tightening prevents slop between the bolt and the bushing.  Any loose bolts will cause a clunk.

From the manual for torque figures.

64.35.35
3. Position transverse links to pivot housing and tighten bolts to 155 Nm (114 lbf.ft).
4. Position Watts linkage to axle and chassis. Fit bolts but do not tighten at this stage.
5. Remove stand(s) and lower vehicle.
6. Tighten bolts securing pivot housing to axle to 230 Nm (170 lbf.ft). Tighten bolts securing transverse links to chassis to 140 Nm (103 lbf.ft).
CAUTION: Nuts and bolts must be tightened with weight of vehicle on suspension.

  If they are all tight, then I would pull it off and see if the bushings are is good shape or not.

[Matt H]

Back to my original question does it help/required to have the suspension under load or hanging free? Or, does that depend on what the issue is?

You need to load the suspension but have the wheels off the ground. With beam axle Land Rovers it's easy, just put it up on jack stands. Then check for any play in any and all bushings. You just grab a prybar and start trying to move the various components that have bushings etc in a direction that they should not be able to move. Squishing a bushing by 1/16-1/8" is ok. Movement over 1/8" is not ok. Look for rust or very shiny metal as tell tales. Compare one side to the other. Front to back. 

Considering the noise started after a off road trip and the noise is coming from the rear I would take a close look at the shocks first. Does the noise happen when cornering fast or slow? coast or under power? tight corner or long wide turns? Left turn? Right turn? Both?

MY 2c.

[ochubb]

Thanks Matt H and Red90 for the pointers. 

I can say that I put in new shocks and springs (2" lift) all parts Terrafirma. I did a visual inspection of the shocks earlier but perhaps this weekend with the truck up on jack stands armed with a couple of pry bars I'll be able to locate the issue. 

Fro Matt H's questions: The issue happens on sharp corners (turning from a street to an ave) normal city driving, so I guess under power.  Not so much on long turns.  Yes, in both directions. It doesn't happen on slow turns.

I'll keep you posted. 

[Matt H]

Check the springs are still seated properly. They can accidentally dislocate over rough ground and (most of the time) relocate without you ever realizing. But sometimes they don't seat 100% correctly when they do and it's hard to spot if your not specifically looking for it.

Happened to me a couple of times.

[Trevor]

Check the springs are still seated properly. They can accidentally dislocate over rough ground and (most of the time) relocate without you ever realizing. But sometimes they don't seat 100% correctly when they do and it's hard to spot if your not specifically looking for it.

Happened to me a couple of times.

Yeah, that does sound a lot like a spring has become unseated.

[Red90]

Yeah, that does sound a lot like a spring has become unseated.

I can say that I put in new shocks and springs (2" lift) all parts Terrafirma.

Could be, if the "kit" uses longer shocks without spring retention.  One of my big pet peeves is that vendors of Land Rover spring lifts don't sell properly designed kits that include everything needed to make them function properly and safely.

[ochubb]

So, I got the truck supported on the frame and dropped the rear axle so that I could rattle both coil springs in the homes.  I didn't notice any damage ie. cracked or broken springs nor anything out of sorts with the suspension fully dropped. Additionally I pried shock everything while the axle hung and after loading.

The good news -- the clunk is noticeable diminished.  The bad news -- it's still there.  Arrg  :-\

[Trevor]

Have you checked your exhaust system? Look for a loose or broken hanger that allows the exhaust to shift slightly. I had a situation where, due to the exhause being just slightly loose, my catalytic converter was rubbing up against the prop shaft when I cornered. Harder I turned, louder the noise got.

It's a pretty quick and easy. Check to make sure the entire exhaust system is fitting nice and tight. Also look for rub/wear marks on the exhaust itself, especially around your cats. They sit very close to the prop shaft as it is. 

[ochubb]

Yup the exhaust system has all its hangers and the catalytic converter is tight and right. 

I'm wondering if I picked up some mud on the trail that found it's way between the springs and their seats that causing some slip - clunk action.  That would explain the fact that problem has diminished dropping the suspension.

Anyway my 'fixing' testing is on hold since my master cylinder has chosen now as the time to pack it in.  :(