RRC Project

Started by JamesS, December 30, 2018, 07:41 PM

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JamesS

New to Land Rover ownership,  picked up a Range Rover classic this summer in Vancouver and it has been sitting since in my parking garage.  Plan is to get it safetied in the new year and parts on the way for a mild lift with police spec springs.





Will post some updates here as I figure things out.

First off, anyone have suggestions for a place to get it safetied?  Current plan is to take a risk and get it done at Canadian Tire as it is hard for me to get it done during the week.

Matt H

Nice Rangie! What year is that, 93? Clean Classics are getting harder and harder to find.
CT is ok.  Just be sure there are no lights on the dash. Unless there is an older mechanic available they likely won't be able to read pre OBD II codes.
No Road Except For Land-Rover.

binch

Where are you?

Gotta love the RRC's  ;)
Cheers, Bill

Red90

I've always used CT.  They have always signed the OPI.

binch

We've had some people come into our shop after CT failed their OPI, usual due to inadequate knowledge by they individual doing the test.   In most cases they were being failed on items that were not required due to the age of the vehicle.   Sometimes it was just not knowing the land rovers.
Cheers, Bill

B-Red

CT skill levels change from location to location. Fire Arms collection in South common in Edmonton is better than the one in Windermere for example.
I use Sports Car Center because I know who is working there and their skills level.
The age of the car can make a huge difference in dealing with such certifications.

JamesS

Thanks everyone, taking it in for inspection today (crossing my fingers).

It is a 91' Classic and located in Calgary.

headdamage

I'm in Calgary and have a RRC, I've got quite a few spare bits if you need something for the inspection.

binch

Quote from: JamesS on January 05, 2019, 09:21 AM
Thanks everyone, taking it in for inspection today (crossing my fingers).

It is a 91' Classic and located in Calgary.

Let us know how you make out!!
Cheers, Bill

JamesS

#9
Well... did not go well. The lottery of who was conducting the inspection was not in my favour.

Major issues are ABS light not going on at startup, on further investigation the ABS light was pulled (great) and when replaced it is constantly on.  The brakes work fine, I've been pulling ABS codes to trouble shoot this but no luck yet. I bought this book https://www.jewellamberoil.com/sales/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=230 which is helpful (let me know if anyone else needs it). The ABS system is quite complicated so this looks like it will be posing some issues. To start I am replacing the two relays under the passenger seat (Pump and valve I think), which tested good but correspond with the code flashed by the computer and should likely be replaced anyway.

Also flagged me for my fuel gauge not working (it shows empty at all times).  To my mind that is not part of the inspection, but he felt it fell under the "underhood, fuel system" category  ::).  I am tracing this, but I also have one of these from a different project https://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/cin-sn34/overview/  which would "solve" it for the purposes of inspection.  I believe the instrument cluster may be faulty but to be determined once I get some more time with the multi meter.

Other minor issues that caused it to fail are cracked middle rear seatbelt receptacle, upper tailgate not latching (it does, you just have to give it some muscle, like every other classic I've ever dealt with), and leaking power steering box (don't they all leak? I have put in lucas stop leak).  These items arent of major concern.

Chad M

I don't know if this is any help but my P38 needs to hit 5 km/hr before the ABS light will extinguish.  This is apparently normal operating procedure.  Maybe the RRC is similar?

headdamage

It is usually bad wheel speed sensors in my experience that set off the ABS light as long as the brakes are otherwise working.

I removed the entire ABS system to where there is no trace of it in my 93 RRC, can't fail now ;)

Matt H

X2 on the wheel sensor.

The rear lift gate latch is adjustable. It's a PITA but it can be done.

Sounds like the fuel gauge sender is shorted. Lift the carpet in the back and remove the handy cover plate for the fuel pump. Check the wiring. It tends to trap a bunch of dirt/moisture on top of the tank that damages the harness connectors.

Seatbelts are the same as for the Discovery 1. If you can't find any locally I've got some you can have for free!
Hope this helps.
No Road Except For Land-Rover.

binch

Great job guys!!!!   Get that Rangie back on the road where it belongs  ;)
Cheers, Bill

JamesS

Thanks everyone, appreciate the suggestions.

Not much progress tonight other than I tried to trace the fuel gauge issues.  Pulled the pump and it all appears fine (floater floats) and the wiring is all clean and no corrosion.  Didn't rig it up to test the ohms output by the sender.   



Wasnt all for waste as I did observe something interesting while testing it with the floater manually pushed full: the fuel gauge seems to read accurately when the key is in position 2 (lights on dash on but not started), but when off or started it goes to empty.  I think it must be an issue with the gauge itself but will have to investigate further.