Preparing for Winter Driving

[Already a Rover]

Hi - I`m not in the country right now, but am worried about how to keep frost off the side windows of my S2a in the winter. 

And a block-heater.

Thanks,

jim

[Rambler]

Hi Jim,
Though I have yet to test this my Series 2 has a block heater fitted where one of the core plugs goes (bottom right of engine block).  Researching this, it was made in Winterpeg by a local company.  I found the complete kit available from the parts monkey for about $35.  The part number is Temro 3100070.  At least somewhere to start.  Plus if you go to the Temro website (now phillips and Temro industries) they have a catalogue which lists our old Land Rovers with the correct part no. and orientation for their heater insert.
Not sure I can help with side windows frosting up...
Cheers, Ian

[Red90]

That Temro heater will fit all Rover engines from 2.25P to 300TDI, and should be available to purchase at any auto parts store.

The biggest problem with old Rovers in the winter is poor insulation and poor heaters.  Those are the big things to look at.

[Matt H]

 ;D

[Already a Rover]

Humour always appreciated!

But seriously though, have others driven theirs in the winter and do the side windows fog/freeze-up?

Thanks for the info on the block-heater.  Will-do, just gotta figure-out which engine.

Jim

[Red90]

It depends which heater you have (there are various options), how much, if any, insulation the truck has and how well sealed are the drafts.  If you have a Smith's heater, bare metal and air leaks everywhere, you will freeze to death and be scraping the inside of all the windows.  If it is insulated, has a good heater and is more or less sealed up, you will be fine.

[binch]

Or if you're one of the lucky ones you have a Kodiak heater ;)

My 110 is okay down to about 15 below but after that I need to jackets.   One for me and the other to jam inbetween the door and the seat to slow the winds down  ;D    But unlike John's 90 I have no insulation on my exmod so I don't have big expectations.    On the other hand...I have a webasto diesel heater in my truck no troubles starting it anywhere  8)

[Matt H]

Strangely, the canvas tilt is warmer than an un-insulated hard top but reguardless you are going to have issues keeping the side windows frost free. There are modifications that can be done to the existing series 2a system but it will never be even close to what you would expect from a more modern car.....and even modern cars can have trouble keeping windows clear on cold days if they have more than one passenger.

The only real solution is to put in a high output custom system or dress like the chap in my smart arse post above. A 2.25l puts out plenty of heat, it's just a matter of getting a large enough heater core, fast enough fan and ducting it to where it needed faster than it can cool off and escape.

Red90 made a custom unit for his 90" diesel using a princess auto core that is capable of keeping the cabin uncomfortably hot even on the coldest days.

[Red90]

Red90 made a custom unit for his 90" diesel using a princess auto core that is capable of keeping the cabin uncomfortably hot even on the coldest days.

When the wife tells you the heater is too hot, you know you have succeeded.

You really need some amount of insulation as well.  Bare metal panels have an insane level of heat transfer capability.

[Already a Rover]

Hi.  The doors have a sheet of rigid insulation in them, and a vinyl-covered card on top of that.  I thought that was pretty-good, but we will see.  The roof has some sort of aluminum-backed insulation under the new head-liner which should help a little.  The PO installed a plastic divider between the front and the back.  It looks like a kit of some kind; there is some distortion alright, but should really help too!  The doors have new rubbers on them and I spent some time getting things to seal-up better after the rain 'shower' I drove through a couple of months-ago showered inside the truck as well.  Still some room for improvement, but the tops are better now that I shoved some stuff under the rubbers so they touch the doors. 

I have a Kodiak iii - should stay warm-enough judging by what you say, but those side-windows....  If I find somewhere to store my Volvo, Growler can at least sit in the garage at night (plugged-in).  I'll hopefully be alright commuting if I let the truck warm-up before taking-off (?) but highway-driving will be the real test.  Get a hotter thermostat?  195?  There is the old cardboard in front of the rad trick too.

Thanks, I think it may be about as good as it can be.  I paid quite a bit for that truck, but I does have a lot going for it.  I'm not panicking now.  But what my mind has been working with is whether if there IS a problem, one could put a "t" in-line on the hoses to the front windows and point a small hose where it needs to go to see my mirrors? 

Still in Japan,

Jim

[Red90]

You will be fine then. Side windows defroster are a very new thing. The world managed before they started putting them in cars.

[camo388]

Side windows defroster are a very new thing. The world managed before they started putting them in cars.

I just wear extra clothes and drive with the window open.  They are sliding windows on a LR so don't need to be open far to see outside mirror.
If you can reduce breathing on the windows, you have less inside frost.  So as much as possible, no breathing while driving.  :-X ;D

[Already a Rover]

Yeah, opening the window helps - thanks.

Jim

[Already a Rover]

AND I bought a 195 thermostat today, just in case.  I have a trippple-core radiator, so I might even run it in the summer.

J