Alberta Land Rover Enthusiasts Club Forum
General => Technical Discussions => Topic started by: Red90 on October 16, 2015, 04:24 PM
Oh my.... A bit over two years and 5000 km ago, I broke the timing belt on the 200TDI in my 90. I could have just changed the belt and push rods and be done with it, but silly me, I figured I might as well pull the head, lap the valves and get a fresh head gasket in there. Who knows if it had ever been changed. After taking off the head, all was well but one of the tappet slides had a dent from the bent push rod.
I'm not quite sure what was running around in my brain that week, but it could not have been much. I ordered an aftermarket tappet assembly with the rest of the parts. It is 5 pounds for an aftermarket one and 95 pounds for a genuine one. I don't even recall thinking about it....
Sometime awhile back while adjusting the valve clearance, I noticed that this valve would change. You would adjust it, rotate the engine a few times and it would be off again. I knew at the time the cam follower must have been dying. I stuck my head in the sand and put it off on the back burner. Well the other week I heard the fun and distinct sound of exhaust in the intake. The valve cap had fallen off. I adjusted it back up and the adjuster had just about run out of travel.
Off came the head and there was a nice octagonal cam follower. Joy of joys.
So, yes, OEM or genuine for internal engine parts.... For what it is worth, Turner Engineering sells an OE version for 19 pounds, so really not that bad.
Holy Crappin arseholes batman!?!?!?!? Do I need to send this in John??????
Ouch, that smarts!
I've been of the"LR original or OEM high quality aftermarket (Ashcroft, etc)" mindset for critical parts for a while now.
There's a place for Britpart, Paddock, Bearmach etc's of the world, but I'm not really comfortable using them in anything critical. Chinese-made, or just discount equipment generally, just isn't as reliable/robust.
That said, I've had one item recently, and unfortunately can't remember what it was, that was LR original and had a "made in China" on the package. I believe it was a moulding or connector for the CT, nothing really critical. That concerned me though as it was the first time I saw this. It appears LR are sourcing directly out of China, much like GM and others. That will put the quality of the OEM items under threat, so one will need to be vigilant and pay attention.
Quote from: binch on October 16, 2015, 11:30 PMHoly Crappin arseholes batman!?!?!?!? Do I need to send this in John??????
I would put them on the list of things not to let people buy.....
Quote from: Trevor on October 17, 2015, 06:36 AMI've been of the"LR original or OEM high quality aftermarket (Ashcroft, etc)" mindset for critical parts for a while now.
Trevor, I'm the same way. I've really no idea why I bought that tappet.... Just one of those days, I guess. Everything else I bought that day was OEM. I more wanted this up here for others. When I knew it was starting to fail, I did a search and there seems to be nothing out there on the problem. They are obviously not anywhere near the required hardness. The cam looks perfectly fine.
I do agree that quite a few OE and genuine parts are no where near the quality that they were in the past as well, but that is a topic for another day.
Good to know. Thanks for sharing.
I've had bad experiences with jobber electrical parts in the past. Notably, TPS'. Ended up using a OEM 15 year old, 220,000 km used unit........ Worked perfectly. Ya live un learn.
Okay. I need an exorcism.
I got the parts in and put it back together last night and finished up this evening. All went well other than I lost one exhaust manifold nut somewhere.
Took it out for a spin. Sounds good and pulls well. I get out onto Stoney and pull hard, and the boost that normally peaks at 20 psi, drop to a peak of 10. Hmm, did I blow a hose? I go back home and can't see anything wrong. I'm pull stuff apart and there I notice the inlet of the turbo is scraped up. Very strange. It was fine when I put it together. I look in the intake hose and there is my missing nut....... ??? :o :-[ :-[ :-[ :-[ :-[ :-[
You must be over worked or coming down with something.
I've got a defender 200tdi turbo in the basement in Calgary but it is used and the bearings might be a bit too loose though you might be able to use it for parts if they are.
I had the same issue with my RRC's 200tdi a few years back....but mine turned out to be a 1.25" fender washer.....No idea in hell where it came from...but there it was. Took it out and it runs fine ;-)
I dremelled the bent vanes. Will see how it goes. I'm sure the bearing will die. Maybe a good excuse to get a VNT.
http://www.nkkturbos.co.uk/Landrover-200TDi-TB02-Turbo-Part-Number-465171-1/2
Possibly not a bad option. 182 pounds with delivery to Calgary. Can just buy the compressor wheel for 31 pounds, but this will ensure good bearings and will be balanced.
VNT.......ooooooooooooo now that would be a nice addition to the engine ;D
Quote from: binch on October 24, 2015, 08:09 AM
VNT.......ooooooooooooo now that would be a nice addition to the engine ;D
Yes, but at 920 pounds plus shipping, it is a bit pricey just to remove a bit of turbo lag.
Holy crap! I thought the last one I checked out at just over 600 quid was a bit on the expensive side ahhahahhahahahha. At that price I can put up with a little bit of lag ::)
Quote from: binch on October 24, 2015, 10:49 AM
Holy crap! I thought the last one I checked out at just over 600 quid was a bit on the expensive side ahhahahhahahahha. At that price I can put up with a little bit of lag ::)
If you can find one for 600, let me know!!
It was a shop west of Darlington that I was put onto by Stormin from the old forum. I'll see if I can track it down again.... ;)
I thought Norm had an Allard kit. Their kit is 1450 pounds using the one from the 2.8. Everyone else now uses a Turbo Technics kit that sells around 900.
I ended up getting a CHRA from this place. http://www.turborebuild.co.uk/. They built one with a better bearing and seal design than stock. They claim the stock design is not adequate for running at high boost levels.
Let us know how much change in performance you notice with this John ;)
Well it should be back to normal, meaning fast and furious!! The turbo (compressor and turbine) is stock. Just upgraded bearings and seals to allow it to be reliable at the higher boost that I run.
All back together is running like normal.
Quote from: Red90 on November 12, 2015, 06:01 PM
All back together is running like normal.
Wow, what a difference!??! ???
The difference in the compressor vanes is the old one had the leading edges removed by the nut in the intake.
Also checked the bearing play. 0.015 to 0.020" radial and 0.004" axial, which is right around Garret's spec. So the bearing was still okay.
One more comment.... ;)
The circlip that holds the compressor housing on is a barrel of fun to deal with. It is too big and strong for normal circlip pliers. Big circlip pliers are stupidly priced. The holes in the circlip are large enough to accept a decent sized needlenose plier and that is what I ended up using. Still fiddly and would probably be best to have an assistant, but doable.
Would have been great entertainment being a fly on the wall watch you get that thing off ;D
Off is not so bad. It is getting it in. You need three hands.
I've got a turbo here with loose bearings but a good compressor wheel.
Are you sure that are loose. The 20 thou spec feels like a lot of movement. It is pretty cheap to change the bearings and seals but it still would need to get balanced.
Quote from: headdamage on November 14, 2015, 11:28 AM
I've got a turbo here with loose bearings but a good compressor wheel.
So I pulled it apart. It all is pretty simple to do and change the bearings and seals. You should be able to keep it balanced as long as you maintain the angular alignment of the turbine and compressor. The only thing to know is the shaft nut is left hand threaded. Beyond that it is a couple of circlips and three torx head screws.