Alberta Land Rover Enthusiasts Club Forum
General => Technical Discussions => Topic started by: Gardenome on March 08, 2015, 08:47 PM
Looking to borrow one to adjust my wheel bearing play.
Or an idea where to get a good price on one.
Ooh, I wonder if they are rentable?
Any help is appreciated.
Thanks
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I have one you can borrow Ian. But I'm not sure why you need one for wheel bearings though ???
Some versions on the workshop manual use a free play to set the wheel bearings. I would suggest not using that method. Just tighten the hub nut by hand, spin the wheel, back off, tighten, spin, back off and tighten, then you are good to go. The newer manuals give a small torque value of 30 Nm. You just want to take out the freeplay. A small amount of preload is better than freeplay for the bearings.
Here's a pair of videos that show the entire swivel bearing replacement process. The fella here also demonstrates well the technique John mentioned.
It's a great vid as long as you have a newer version of the defender. Us old crusty farts with the 110's have a slightly different set up. But the vid and a little reading from the Haynes Book of Lies and it all comes out in the wash ;D
Manual says to adjust for 0.004 - 0.006 inches so I was going to adjust for that. As I was saving up for the dial indicator, I started disassembly. Current grease looks pretty chunky. I'll try john's method but it looks like I'll be checking all 4 wheels. Bearings come in matched sets but they don't differentiate inside vs outside bearings do they?
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Series 2? They should have two different sized hub bearings.
Make sure you are using good brand name bearings and hub seal. Make sure the sealing surface is good.
edit: Oh 1955. I'm not sure then. Matt would know about a Series 1.
Watching the YouTube videos, is this similar to the repairs that Jeffery and Bill did on their front Wheels?
This video
http://youtu.be/ZtbQFAftCV8
Show the guy using some soft metal chisels or punches to get the races out. Where would I find something like that? Both those terms in Google don't find me what I want.
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Never mind. Drift was the term I needed.
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Any tool or auto parts store to get a brass drift. Use the old race to drift the new ones in.
Quote from: Red90 on March 15, 2015, 08:25 PM
Any tool or auto parts store to get a brass drift. Use the old race to drift the new ones in.
But use a cutting wheel to cut a slice through the old one first. It works a treat without binding in the seat behind the one. I kept one in the tool box it's been so handy doing the wheel bearings ;-)
Quote from: B-Red on March 15, 2015, 06:06 PM
Watching the YouTube videos, is this similar to the repairs that Jeffery and Bill did on their front Wheels?
I think it was the wheel bearing that failed on Jeffery's enroute to Moab, rather than the swivel pin bearing they show in the video. Although I can't remember for sure. But in any event, its the same starting point, its just a matter of how much you have to pull apart. Swivel pin bearings are more work as you have to disassemble to the point of removing the housing itself. Wheel bearings are much easier as you need not disassemble that far.
That's on a Defender. I have no idea how the Series differs.