small parts polishing tumbler, soda blaster...

[ugly_90]

I blasted some tiny parts lately in a cabinet blaster, it was tough. I had each small bit on the end of pliers at arms length in the blaster, doing each surface of the part.

I was in Canadian Tire, and noticed they have an abrasive polishing tumbler, for smaller nuts and bolts, odds and ends. It'll accept pieces up to something like 7 3/4", and up to five pound weight.

The unit was plastic, and looked cheap. The price was $119 or so. This could be handy for a restoration, does anyone have a better solution for small bits? I usually replace anything smaller and rusted with new steel or new stainless steel hardware. For some LR-specific parts, it can be cheaper to restore them.

Also, I note that Princess Auto has a portable soda blaster, I had been on sale in the past. The largest is a 100-lb unit, would this be of any use for stripping paint from aluminum on LR panels?? It has had one poor review, but that could just as easily been that operator. Having a large compressor behind the blaster is also essential.

http://www.princessauto.com/en/detail/100-lb-portable-soda-blaster/A-p8549115e

[Rambler]

I watched a youtube video recently about the tumbler type of parts cleaner/de-rust equipment.  Seemed to get good results.  Having not seen the CT one I searched on amazon and if
I remember correctly these were in the 50-70 $ range. 

This one is on the us amazon site for 36$.  I didn't see any listed just now on amazon.ca. They are typically advertised for tumbling shell cartridges, but would suitable for small parts and fasteners

http://www.amazon.com/Frankford-Arsenal-Quick-n-Ez-Case-Tumbler/dp/B001MYGLJC/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1452040844&sr=8-1-fkmr0&keywords=Vibratory+tumblr


The previous owner has soda blasted the side panels and hood on my Series 2 land rover, with good results in terms of paint stripping. He got the soda blaster equipment from eastwood in the states; it looks similar to that sold in princessauto, though maybe of more substantial quality.  Saying that most things I've bought from PA have worked just as intended.

Good luck with your purchase.  I was thinking of going a similar route (tumbler) for small parts.
Ian

[Matt H]

I like to reuse as much original hardware as possible when restoring a vehicle. For small metal parts I use a chemical rust remover.

For general paint removal on bodywork I use a razor blade, then a really corse grit sand paper to break up the surface of the remaining paint then a gel type chemical stripper. Works very well.

Finally for large castings etc I use a sand blaster. Both a cabinet type and a larger external unit.

My 2c

[camo388]

For general paint removal on bodywork I use a razor blade, then a really coarse grit sand paper to break up the surface of the remaining paint then a gel type chemical stripper. Works very well.

My 2c

How does this work on ex military Land Rovers?? and their 6 or more layers of paint??  I'm thinking with paint that thick do you add soapy water and shave it off  ;D

[ugly_90]

It seems the CT tumbler is overpriced, it could be worthwhile after it goes on sale. The chemical rust remover is handy, especially as a final step after abrasive removal.

[Matt H]

For general paint removal on bodywork I use a razor blade, then a really coarse grit sand paper to break up the surface of the remaining paint then a gel type chemical stripper. Works very well.

My 2c

How does this work on ex military Land Rovers?? and their 6 or more layers of paint??  I'm thinking with paint that thick do you add soapy water and shave it off  ;D

It works really well on the BATUS bangers. You will need a good razor blade holder and sometimes you may need to use a sharp flat wood chisel (no mallet though lol) for the really thick or stubborn paint. Then let the chemicals do their thing. Paint removal and I are well aquanted. I've tried most every method there is over the years.

[camo388]

While stripping my 110 roof I used an electric heat gun to soften the paint then scrapped off with a putty knife.  It was outside in the fall to avoid the fumes and possibly the cooler temperatures helped in some way, but it worked very well.  Found a narrow blade scraper the same width as the heat gun can heat, worked best.  Trying to speed things up by heating a bigger area and use wider scrapper was counter productive.  Paint edges cooled too fast and using harder pressure tended to dig the scrapper corners down to bare metal.  I could with care remove 6/8/10 layers of hand painted BATUS colors to factory paint above primer.  Having flat body pieces on stands was great but more than enough work to forgo attempting paint removal on the tub sides.  These thankfully have fewer layers than the red/yellow hard top roof so there I may get away with a quick sand and then repaint.

[Red90]

I've tried most every method there is over the years.

Have you tried a (good) soda blaster?  I'm just wondering if it would be a fair bit less labour.

[Matt H]

I've found most of the labour involved in soda blasting comes afterwards. Dust gets packed into blind corners, caveties, each and every nook and cranny and can be very difficult to get rid of. But get rid of it you must because it will eventually shake loose later leaving exposed areas, ruin paint and hold moisture and promote corrosion. You can't even wash it off effectively. You need to dig it out and vacuum it up. Takes forever.

All forms of paint removal has its down side and is messy. The least labour intensive (because you have to pay someone else to do it for you) is having the vehicle dipped in an acid solution then washed to within an inch of its life. Obviously this is also the most expensive.

My 2c.

[Rambler]

As Matt said above the soda gets everywhere.  I didn't do this but years later am still digging, washing and wishing the stuff out of every nook and cranny (inside instrument gauges, you name it..). No fun :'(