Switching to an Alternator on A Series II

[SpeedyJ]

I'm in the early phase of acquiring the parts I need to convert my Series II from the Lucas generator to an AC Delco alternator. I would go with the Pangolin relocation bracket in a heartbeat, but my unusual intake manifold/SU carburetor/turbo configuration occupies the same same space as that conversion.

The current arrangement has a pressed steel mount attached to the timing cover to support the front of the generator. None of this lines up with the AC Delco unit, has anybody had any luck using a Series III alternator mount with the Delco unit? I've done a bunch of Googling, but information is thin on the ground. I did read one post that seemed to indicate that some combination of grinding and washers would could be used to make the Series III mount work, but I have low confidence in the source.

I find it hard to believe that I'm the first to put a Delco in the stock location, so I'm certain that the information is out there since I hate reinventing the wheel.

Thoughts?

Anyone have a spare Series III alternator mount that they'd be willing to part with?

Cheers

Jeff

I should add that my engine block appears to be out of a '72 or '73 Lightweight.

[Red90]

Probably not a lot of help...but I'm pretty sure on my Series 3 engine, there was no "mount" for the alternator.The alternator mounts from a piece that is cast into the block.  Or maybe I'm crazy.  Same Lucas style alternator used on Defenders to 1993.

You can see it in this picture at the front of the engine just above the engine mount.

[SpeedyJ]

It looks like this, the part # is ETC4357. It seems to be sought after by folks doing 200Di and 300Di engine swaps into Series trucks.

[headdamage]

Are you changing from positive to negative ground or was the truck neg to start with?

[SpeedyJ]

The truck is currently positive ground, but switching it is complicated. I have a very unusual draw through carburetor turbo arrangement, currently the timing is controlled by a mystery black box of hand soldered Radio Shack components that appear to date from the late '70s. The black box has an automatic setting and a manual setting, in the auto setting it runs ok, but not great, in manual mode it's terrible (it's kind of like a model T where you set the spark timing by ear). 

This black box is the source of a great deal of anxiety for me, it's undocumented and I don't trust it. If it does go bad it is unlikely that I can repair it since I don't know how it works in the first place. I've kept the truck pretty close to home for this reason.

So my plan is this:

1. Convert to MegaJolt engine management, this allows me to program my timing in a way that I can see and understand. I also suspect that the MegaJolt is much more sophisticated then my mystery box, so I should be able to accommodate for more variables - engine speed, load, boost, etc...
2. MegaJolt allows me to get away from a distributor based ignition system. I once had a set of points fail on me in heavy L.A. traffic and again at the top of an overpass in Houston, I don't like points.
3. Since MegaJolt will only run on negative ground I'll need to switch the system's polarity.
4. Since I'm already making big changes it makes since to upgrade to a more robust and powerful power supply, that way I can have headlights, heater fan and wipers at the same time without the generator light glowing. I might even be able to charge my phone.

Because the polarity of the electrical system and engine management are intertwined I need to implement all of these changes at once, easy, right?

[Red90]

Why not just use the normal 65 Amp Defender alternator with that Series 3 bracket, if it clears?  They are cheap, easy to get and reliable.  If you want more juice, Britpart sells a souped up 120 A version that is not much more.

I see Rovers North sells a low cost, aftermarket version of the bracket if you can't find a used part locally.

[SpeedyJ]

A Defender alternator is plan B, but only because the 78A Delco unit is already on a shelf in my garage. I thought I'd try to source a cast bracket locally first (I'm on a tight budget these days), if I can't find one by the time I'm ready to implement the changes then the Rovers North bracket may be the way I go. I ordered a towing wiring harness for my LR3 from British Atlantic yesterday and was reminded of the added expense of sourcing parts from the U.S.. The harness was $326 from the dealer here in YYC, while AB was $144 USD, with those numbers the AB one looks like a no brainer, but if you do the math and include shipping, exchange and GST the actual cost of the AB harness is ~$260CAD, it's still cheaper, but not by much as you'd think. So that $100USD bracket and $160-$200USD alternator start to creep up to $500CAD by the time they're in your hands.

In either case, the bracket is the starting point, if adapting it to the Delco unit looks ugly I'll switch to plan B.

[binch]

pm sent ;)

[SpeedyJ]

Stop the presses!

I was aware of 123Ignitions from the Netherlands, but they didn't check all of the boxes last time I looked at them.

They now have a cool electronic, custom programmable ignition that takes the place of the Lucas 25D distributor. A few features make it even more interesting - it can accommodate boost from the turbo, is tuned wirelessly via iOS device, offers a PIN code based interlock for security AND will work on a POS earth vehicle.

Crazy, now I need to get a price.

I'm also keen on the fact that it would clean up my engine compartment - fewer sensors, control boxes, etc....

[Red90]

That is pretty cool.  Should do everything you need and be a simple install and setup.

[Matt H]

Nice! Also instead of the radio shack special you can have something with spares availability, an actual manual and a wiring schematic.